evictoriam
Oct 25, 2009, 02:52 PM
Taking out old inground oil tank. Installing one in garage, which by code, requires cement "bumpers" to protect from car hitting it. Is it easier to buy these, or if I make, how do I install in existing cement floor?
KUXJ
Oct 25, 2009, 04:04 PM
Hi! evictoriam, welcome to AMHD :)
Taking out old inground oil tank. Installing one in garage, which by code, requires cement "bumpers" to protect from car hitting it. Is it easier to buy these, or if I make, how do I install in existing cement floor?
Well, these are $121. Loading Dock Equipment - Parking Blocks (http://www.loadingdocksupply.com/parking_blocks1) come with two holes at each end.
If the car is head on to tank you'll need to allow for the front or rear bumper overhang, depending on how you park the vehicle. (You will always have to remember....If you back in, you'll hit the tank before you stop.) :eek:
A side to side (car to tank) orientation will allow for a closer mounting,
Once you have them placed,
mark the base of the holes,
move the barriers to one side,
drill holes in concrete floor
use a cement bit with hammer drill If bit is long enough you can leave barriers in place, and use holes as a guide
Pin barriers with sufficient length re-bar
Usually for the average homeowner it is easier to buy, than to make.
You will need to estimate the amount of concrete you will need.
Make the molds
Buy the re-bar
Place the re-bar in the molds
Make and place the forms for the holes or you could use the re-bar by bending it out of the mold, or you could even place re-bar before you pour, but then it's harder to line up, and drill the holes to pin them
You'll need tying wire, wire dikes, and release agent to get the cured barriers out of the molds
In either case, I feel they become a tripping hazard. You could be up to three feet away from the tank depending on how you park.
But wait!. Check with your code officer, and if they'll allow it. You can get vertical steel posts that have a drilled flange already welded on. All you have to do is place them 'bout a foot away from the tank, drill the holes, and tapcon or plaslode them to the floor.
I tried to find them, with no luck.
Large factories use them to delineate aisles for palatalized storage or working areas within the production floor. My Co. I retired from had them, 'bout 5"sq. 40" high, painted yellow, with an aluminum cap, even came with guard rail you could bolt between them.
You could make your own outta' 4" angle an steel plate, but then you should have a rubber guard for 'em, like, Loading Dock Equipment - Corner Guards (http://www.loadingdocksupply.com/corner_guards)
Check with an established Builder's Supply, not any of the big box stores for options.
I also found this, AMHD-make-concrete-post-protect-heat-pump-from-vehicles (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/construction/make-concrete-post-protect-heat-pump-vehicles-249029.html), it offers ideas on forms. Use the search function there should be others.
K
hkstroud
Oct 26, 2009, 07:33 PM
Build yourself a form. Oil inside with motor oil to keep concrete from sticking to form. Fill form about 2/3 full with concrete, lay in two lengths of rebar. Finish filling with concrete. Make bolt holes by sticking in a short length of 1/2 PVC pipe vertically about 8" from each end. When concrete has set up dump form. Set in place. Mark location of bolt holes in floor . Drill holes in floor. Fill holes in floor with epoxy. Set wheel stops in place and push bolts down through wheels stops into epoxy.
Hope drawings make sense to you. Not very good ad 3D drawing.