OK I recently bought a 1990 honda civic hb 5speed non v-tec... it won't start and if it does it doesn't stay running long at all. Replaced the distributor and put a brand new computer in it... still won't run.. I'm getting spark into the distributor but none out... any ideas? Thanks in advance

Did your new distributor come with a new igniter and coil?

Check main relay, igniter, coil, and MAP Sensor.

Yea I bought a new one and put it in... I'm thinking that the wires from the harness could have touched each other or metal and shorted something out because there are bare spots on the harness near the plug in... and its not secured down... so I think I need to put the one from the old distributor in it and check all the fuses and see if any of those blew when the wires touched... what do you think?

When you turn the ignition switch ON, does the check engine light come on and then go off after 2 seconds? Is there a relay click sound when the check engine light goes out? Does the fuel pump whine for 2 seconds?

Take a test light or a multimeter and test the ACG(s) under-dash fuse. Probably Fuse No. 24.

The check engine light stays on the whole time and the fuel pump is fine there is nothing wrong with it

Your car will never start if the check engine light stays on. The problem is with the main relay, ACG(S) fuse, ECM or ignition switch.

Do you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, when you turn the ignition to ON?

I'm not too sure about the fuel pump... but the magnetic pickup was bad in the distributor

Does it now run? Did you have a bad pickup in the new distributor?

The fuel pump doesn't wine... so I'm going to go check the fuse now... but that still doesn't explain me not getting any spark out of the distributor

A bad Main Relay could explain the problem, since it controls power to the ECM, fuel pump, and fuel injectors.

Jump terminals 5 and 7 to the Main Relay and you should hear the fuel pump run.

There is no 24th fuse it only goes to 18... what now?

Look for a fuse labeled "ACG (S) ALT" or something similar. I have worked with individuals on this site before where some "friend" removed Fuse No. 24 and left it empty. Look on your under-dash fuse box cover and see if you can identify a fuse that is labeled something like this. This fuse controls power to the main relay, computer, and gauges.

What I meant was there is no slot numberd 24... they stop at 18

Next step, then, is to replace your Main Relay.

Where is the main relay at?

It should be located around where the driver's left knee hits the kick panel. The Main Relay's first relay provides power to the ECM, fuel injectors, and second relay. The Main Relay's second relay is energized for 2 seconds, when the ignition is turned to ON, and when the engine is running, which supplies power to the fuel pump. It has a 3" metal bracket, which is attached to the frame with a 10 mm bolt. For easier access, remove the under-dash fuse box cover and the 3 screws securing the lower dash panel cover. Turn the ignition switch on and off, to help you locate it. You should be able to hear and feel it click.

Does it sit behind the hood latch popper and to the left of the fuse box?

Yes, that's it.

it has like a weird z bracket and it has a white plug with a bunch of wires... is that it... and how or where would I find a replacement

Advance Auto, Autozone, Honda, and RockAuto.com, among others, carry them. Make sure it's a Fuel Injection Main Relay for your year and model Civic. Here's an idea of what they should look like and cost:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=598&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Fuel%20Injection%20Relay

OK I took out the wrong thing it only has four prongs... how the hell do I get the main one out... do I have to take the dash off because I was upside down under my fuse box and could not find that main relay

Did you turn your ignition switch on and off to help you locate it? Have someone else turn the switch on and off and you get down and listen on the passenger side of the car.

Are you sure the main relay doesn't have just 4 prongs on your year Civic?

I sent you the wrong link. Here's what your main relay should look like:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=598&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Fuel%20Injection%20Relay

I went on a site that posted pictures from a auto book for my year civic and it showed it to be on like the far left side close to the dash but all I can see is where the pillar connects to the body... and when I search for main relay for my year model and engine size it shows a main relay with either 7 or 8 prongs... its on the driver side for sure I just can't find it... and am really going to dread it if I have to take the dash apart to find it

Here's another link showing your main relay has only a 4 pin connector:

http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail3.html?RY187.html


I think you found the main relay and just didn't believe it.

When you reinstall the main relay, relocate it so it's not so difficult to get to next tine.

The one I got was on the driver side like behind and up a little from the hood latch popper... and the numbers don't match on that page to the one I have... every book I looked at locates my main relay on the driver side to the left of the fuse box and up a little

I must have been getting your year Civic confused with someone else's. Your's is on the driver's side, like I originally said in posting #17. Remove the under-dash fuse box cover and the 3 screws to the lower dash panel. The relay is attached with a 10 mm bolt.

OK ill be back I'm going to go do that now

Well I broke part of my dash but super glue will fix that... now should I test it to see if its bad and see if there is a shot connection or something

I recommend replacing them every 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first.

How many pin connector was yours?

7 pins mitsuba

Yes, just like mine. I replaced mine with a Mitsuba RZ-0159, which I bought through RockAuto.com.

Mine is a RZ-0063

Yes, RockAuto.com has a Mitsuba RZ-0063, RockAuto part no. 39400SH3003, for $36.79+shipping.

Mines 48.79 with shipping... 42.79 with out shipping... what's up with that?

Interesting. Maybe you live in a more expensive part of the country and they charge accordingly. I don't know.

Still not as expensive as auto zone and advance... they don't even carry them normally and you have to pay more to get them special order... anyway I just want to thank you very much for all your help!

That Mitsuba you are ordering is an OEM part, too. Keep me posted with the results.

Well I found out how to test the relay and it is fine... my check engine light is still on and it won't start... n e ideas now? I think the main relay might not be getting a charge from the batery because it doesn't click... but when I tested it directly it clicked... any ideas

With the main relay separated from the connector, turn the ignition on and measure the voltage between main relay connector terminal 5 and body ground.

Clean the ECM's main ground on the thermostat housing. It has 2 wires going to a heavy duty brass connector, which you should remove and clean with 240 grit abrassive cloth. Spray with WD-40 and refasten.

There's no current through it at all

Did you turn your ignition switch to ON, before you checked for voltage between terminal 5 of the main relay connector and ground?

If you did, we are back to the fuse issue. Again, check for an ACG (S) fuse--it might be the second fuse in from the top right. Look at the fuse box cover for its location. Make sure and test fuses with your meter, so you don't put one back in the wrong slot. If you are sure all under-dash fuses are good, then it appears your ignition switch is bad. We are very close to solving this, though!

Why would the ignition switch be bad... the car turns over it just won't fire

And would it be just the key or the entire assembly?

Here's the flow: battery to under-hood fuse box to ignition switch to under-dash fuse box to terminal 5 of the main relay connector. You say you aren't getting voltage at terminal 5, so it has to be a fuse, an open in the harness between the under-dash fuse box and terminal 5, or a bad ignition switch. The liklihood of a harness problem is not very great. The problem would be with the switch, not the lock.

After this, I don't have any other ideas. If you ran your tests properly, your problem resides in this area.

I've checked every single fuse in the car all of them are good... so your saying the ignition switch is the most likely problem that's keeping power from going to the main relay and such?

Could it be the tumbler.. or the place u turn the key or the rod in the steering column?

It is this component:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=410&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Ignition%20Starter%20Switch

You can pull the old switch apart and probably see major contact wear. It's a high wear component.

Do you see an ACG (S) (ALT) fuse on the under-dash fuse box cover? One guy I helped once had a "buddy" remove this fuse as a prank, because he knew how significant it was, and it totally stumped this Naval aircraft mechanic until I figured it out for him.

Take your meter and start tracing the voltage back to the battery, starting from terminal 5 of the main relay connector.

HERE'S HOW I SEE IT: IF YOU TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH TO ON AND DON'T MEASURE ANY VOLTAGE BETWEEN TERMINAL 5 AND BODY GROUND, YOU NEED TO REPLACE A BAD ACG (ALT) (S) 15 AMP FUSE, IN THE UNDER-DASH FUSE BOX, OR REPAIR AN OPEN IN THE WIRE BETWEEN THE MAIN RELAY AND THE ACG (ALT) (S) 15 AMP FUSE.

Don't mess with the ignition switch, yet.

I've checked and checked and checked the fuses all of them are good... under dash and under hood, on the diagram on the back of the fuse box cover there is a single alt 15 fuse and it is still goodso its either the wires from the fuse to the relay from the fuse box or the wire leading to the underdash fuse box to the fuse that powers the relay... or ignition switch wear, because it probably hasn't been changed since 1990 and it has over 200k miles

Yes, that's how it appears to me.

Can I test the wire going from the fuse box to the main relay with an ohm tester?

Only if you disconnect the negative battery terminal first; otherwise, you will blow the fuse in your DMM.

Hello I have become very impatient with my vehicle and it seems like many of you are also. It is a 91 Honda civic si and has 234,000 miles on it. I bought it about 3 months ago and for the first month and a half it worked perfectly. One day the clutch went out completely, as I was driving on the freeway and lucky got a free tow from a random person. I took it in to a mechanic and had the clutch and ball joints replaced. A month after, in 5th gear it completely shut off and I could not start it. Right before this happened I changed out spark plugs, ds cap+rotor. A week later I changed the ICM and nothing. Returned it for the coil and BAM it started right up. I thought I was going to be scotch free but 2 weeks later it died on the road again. I let it sit there for 7 hours and came back to tow it. Apparently it started and drove perfect ALL the way home. It drove good for about a week then again like other people have said, I had to idal at stop lights because it felt like I was loseing power from the rpms. Parked t for a day and it has not worked since. I bought a New main relay and still no help. Since I tried ICM, coi,l this cap + rotor, spark plugs, main relay. It still does not start. I have read over 100 post and I have yet to come up with a solution. Any help would be good. Another thing is I am not getting power from the dizzy at all. And I hear 2 clicks after check engine, hear fuel pump.

Another thing to add is that when it was still working, I revved it past 5000 rpms and the check engine would go on then off after 3 secs. Right before the car died I heard Really hard screching noises. Then it satted loseing power badly.

1. The high revving could have finished off the distributor bearing, which was possibly heading for failure anyhow. Could this have been the screech you heard? If so, distributor sensors may have been affected. Consider installing a new distributor housing. This is real common on Civics (sealed bearings only last so long).

2. Check out MAP sensor.

3. Perform K-Test on ECM (see FAQ).

I got it to work. I unpluged then repluged the ICM. Works good for now, I will update it there are any other problems

Is there something I should put on the tips of the ICM metal tips since I unpluges and repluged them. I read from other fourms that once you take out the ICM you shuld grease it up? What material and where should I buy it. Also where specifically on the part do I put this stuff.

I believe your problem is that the female connectors, going to the igniter, need to be crimped a little, because they get loose over time. Coat the back of the igniter, and the four male connectors, with silicone grease. It's available at most auto part stores.

Hey tx, a lot of the things controlled by the underdash fuse box still work... could it still be the ignition switch? Sorry hondas are a new thing for me, but I figured that when I turn the key there is a black box on the fuse box that clicks when it gets power... I'm just lost and confused on this car

Determine which 15 amp fuse controls power to the main relay. Remove it and make sure there is no corrosion. If you don't have an air bag, it could be fuse no. 12. See if this checks out.

Again, the problem is an "open" from the ignition switch harness to the main relay. I would remove the ignition switch and harness and see what you find. My experience with Hondas is that it is some component that fails, not the wiring harness itself.

Well I tested the blue and white wire from the switch to the relay and its fine... it's a green wire with a black stripe that goes from the relay, all the way around the engine bay to the ECM and its bad... I really don't want to re wire this car but it looks like I'm going to have to do it

Are you saying it's the wiring harness from the ECM to the main relay that's bad? What did you see?

I did the test with the body ground and all the terminals on the main relay plug... I think its teminal two... its either terminal one or two and it's a green wire with a black stripe... from the fuse box to the plug there is no current through the wire at all... I haven't been able to test the rest of the wire because my meter doesn't have long wires for that...

Hey TX, I got my civic to run for about one week now, but just today I let it warm up outside for about 20 minutes because of the cold Minnesota weather and suddenly my rpm's was going crazzy from 0 striaght to 2 rpms rapidly. I remember yesterday when I was leaving work that when I started the car it went straight to 2 rm and not the regular 1- 1 1/2. As of right now the rpm just died and won't move? The car also feels like It lost tons of power and barely wants to start up. When starting the car I also hear a high pitch sound and Im thinking that might be the starter? The weird thing is usually it starts up with just one click and has the hihg pitch sound. Can the starter stop the RPM? Conclusion is getting hard start, RPM DEAD, high pitch start.

Another thing to add is I have switched diz cap, rotor, coil, main relay. Plus whne I got it to work last week It took a lot of tries and maybe that hurt the starter?

With rpm fluctuating like that, I would test or replace your igniter.

Tx it was the alternator silinoid valve fuse the was bad.. and now the main relay clicks all the times and the check engine light only comes on for like two to three seconds... but I'm still not getting spark... when you let go of the key a small orange spark will jump from the wire to a ground source if its not in the spark plug chamber... so I think I still need a new distributor what do you think?

Sounds like you ended up replacing the fuse we talked about; i.e. the ACG (S) (ALT). ALT stands for alternator.

Does your CEL come on and go off after 2 seconds? If you can answer "Yes" to the 3 basic diagnostic questions, then the reason the car is not sparking is likely distributor-related; e.g. bad igniter or coil.

Yep only two seconds and its not the igniter because we get power through it... I am pretty sure it's the magnetic pickup that's bad and you can't swap those out

First, I'd recommend having the igniter and coil tested at Autozone for free. Yes, it could be a bad pickup, but it's not a common problem.

All of this is somewhat strange, since you told me you put in a new distributor. Right?

ok i recently bought a 1990 honda civic hb 5speed non v-tec... it wont start and if it does it doesnt stay running long at all. replaced the distributor and put a brand new computer in it... still wont run.. im getting spark into the distributor but none out... any ideas? thnx in advance
HI I have a 90 honda civic and had the same problem it is your main full rely that dose it I had no help to figure it out it is kind of hard to get to but it is under the dash on the driver side right next to the little cup or chang holder it is right behind it it got mine at the junk yard for $5 but if you buy a new one they are like 100 buck and that fix it for me I had replaced a lot of stuff to find it

No the main relay is fine I broke my lower dash getting to it, but it is the distributor I know for a fact now, thanks anyway

Tx I thought it was new but the guy had rebuilt it and he didn't know anything about cars at all, so I have to spend 180 bucks on a new distributor, and the people at auto zone are morons who don't know how to use the equipment, so we are just going to buy a new distributor. Thank you for all your help

Check out EBay. One other guy on this site just bought a new distributor, with coil, igniter, etc. for $109. It was an incredible deal.

Yea but e-bay is unreliable... could end up getting a junk one that's missing parts... id rather buy it from hondazone.com, but again thanks for all of your help tx, if I have a problem again ill come to you

Hey tx, I got my distributor and put it in... I had to charge my battery and it is blistering cold here in Ohio right now, but I went to start it up after putting the battery back in and my gauge lights were dim and my main relay was buzzing... like it kept clicking rappidly, any ideas?

Also there is no power to anything in my car... not even headlights...
Not even the cd player

Sounds like a bad ECM (clicking main relay)--run the K-Test. Also, check all under-hood and under-dash fuses.

The ecm is brand new... what is the k-test?? And I checked the fuses before n e of them... and all of them this time were fine

Section A describes the K-Test:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-honda-civics-46563.html#post219451

Other than that, I don't know what to suggest other than running through all of the crank but won't start tests again (Sections A and B).

The engine won't even crank now... after I hooked up the recharged battery the relay clicked rappidly and the gauge lights were dim for a couple of tries then nothing at all... and the battery has a full charge

I thought you were talking about the main relay. Now it sounds like you are talking about the starter solenoid. Read Section T:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-honda-civics-46563-3.html#post235560

No the main relay was clicking rappidly like three times and then I wasn't getting power to anything at all... nothing not even my dome light will come on and all the fuses are good I double checked them... I don't know my haynes manual says it could be a fuable link but I don't know

Yes, check for a fusible link.

Where?? The diagrams are way too confusing

If you have one, it should look like a "bump" in one of the wires going to the starter.

Is it like a fuse in the wire?

Frequently, they are like a brown lump in the wire. It might be 1" long. You will likely have to solder a new one in the line.

What is it exactly thought?

It's a nonreusable fuse. It may even be wrapped in electrical tape.

Have you tried hooking up a remote starter switch and seeing if your ignition switch is bad? I would do that first.

Have you cleaned the starter motor and starter solenoid contacts and cables?

I think its my battery that is messed up... ill let you know more later

Tx , my fuel pump is bad and I'm not sure where it is because there aren't any fuel lines coming out of it

Should be in the gas tank. Normally, you remove the rear seat for access. Be sure to disconnect negative. Battery cable first.

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-honda-civics-46563-2.html#post234818

There is no access panel on my year civic but I don't want to drop the gas tank

OK I got it running and had to replace the thermostat... the top heater hose is warm but the bottom isn't the book says its normal but my dad says it isn't... what's going on?

You never came back and said what was the cause of your Civic not running.

Remember that a spark will find least resistance to ground. If you take the cap off and check for spark out of coil and is good. If you put rotor and cap on and no spark out of known good parts then there is too much resistance somewhere and spark is shorting to the dist case. Probably a bad coil. They have been known to short to case. When you pull it out you may see small burn circle on it between it and metal cover. Circle will show purple heat marks where it shorted to. Also check and make sure tit is still in cap. A lot of people try replacing cap without removing wires and break it. If you did this, coil is definitely toast.

Check fuel filter, and may be place to check pressure while your at it. Sounds like spark problem near solved.

HI TX, first apologies for my english is not my native language... jump into my case I have 1990 civic honda hatch back 1.5L more then 200,000 miles since why buy this car I got the problem that some times start and some times not, I want to mention that that before to start the car again I have to wait around 10 minutes, and the car works... two week ago I did a tune up changing cables,sparks, distributor cup and rotor and the car work fine but the next day won't start I give up and I leave the car sit for a week and wend I get back to the car at first try the car was back online”?” . Then I change the gasoline filter and the car won't start In that moment I feel that gasoline is not injecting on the carburetor... I open the gasoline line that go for the gasoline pump to the gasoline filter give turn to the key and is not injecting gasoline... my next step I check the gasoline pump and I was fine also I replace the main relay and nothing, I give up again and leave the car for few days... Then went I get back to the car magic the fist try the car came back a life I drove the car for few days and the died a gain someone told me that has the same problems and give me advice to replace the start ignition switch and I did magic a gain the car start immediately but the next day won't start... is kind a crazy this situation... please any help...

duende08, ensure that the car passes the 3 basic diagnostic questions, in Sections A and B, of the Sticky. Next, clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing, and clean the connector going to the MAP Sensor. Perform the K-Test on the ECM--should it fail, replace the ECM.

Because of the age and mileage on your Civic, I would also replace the Ignition Control Module and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-4.html#post265896

If you do everything above, I bet your problem will be solved.

Thank you so much TX I found a solution for my car... I got some fuses blow out and also in the wrong place... but the main problem it was the main relay, wend I ask for the "main relay" on the store in the database come out a small relay with four pins after reading all your advice and follow the hyperlinks that you create to see the images of the main relay just to get and idea how looks and make sure that I replace the correct relay. I make an inspection and I found the Main relay hide behind the panel... I replace the relay ($12) for one used that I take for another car... I wish to buy new one but my economy is not so good in this times... Well Thanks again TX for your help and I going to safe your advice because are really useful...

Hey tx? I'm having a new issue with my honda, its flooding like crazy , replaced fuel pump, injector, regulator and filter, I think its finally the main relay, or fuel relay, what do you think?

Check regulator and ECT.

Already put a brand new regulator on it, ECT? Can you elaborate on what exactly that is?

Howdy TX, you seem to be pretty good with vehicles so I want to know what you think. I have an '89 Ford 250 pickup with the original naturally-aspirated 7.3L. I live in the blue ridge mountains of VA, and normally have to plug in the block heater overnight during the winter months. However when the weather turned warmer this spring, I was still having to plug it in so that it would start after one cycling of the glow plugs. It is now summer and the average overnight temperature is in the mid to upper 80s, and although I am not plugging the truck in, I have to cycle the glowplugs at least three times before the engine will catch and run. Even then it emits a noxious cloud of blue smoke until it warms up. I have a fair bit of experience with industrial marine diesel engines and I don't think it is burning oil or else it would smoke constantly. I am leaning toward replacing the injectors. What do you think?

agireland, have you tested the glow plugs? They may be bad.

Are you going to tell me what an ECT is Tx or just leave me hangin?

After spending a lot of time working with you, in the past, you never came back and told us what got your car running. It's a two-way street and I was annoyed, to say the least. It was you who let me hang for a long time!

No, I haven't. I had to replace one of them after the engine backfired on me on evening after it had been sitting for a few days and blew the top of the glow plug out of the block! (first time I've ever had a diesel engine backfire, and no, I didn't put any ether in it) But back to the topic, how do you test them? Normally I would asssume you could take a volt meter and test for continuity, but there is only one wire going into the top of each one. By the way, thanks for taking the time to help me figure this out.

agireland, see if this link helps:

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com (http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?Glow%20Plug%20Test%20with%20Ammeter)

I did not relize that it was required but now that I know I appolgize to you tx you have helped a lot and I would like to continue to work with you, so I will tell you all the problems I have had to fix, first we replaced the distri. And fuel pump and it ran great for about a month then it started over-heating big time, and we replaced the thermostat, that made it run for another two months, then the air idle control unit went out, replaced it, fixed the issue, car ran for another months, in which time I hit a big buck with my honda, and I'm glad to report only miner body damage, and some poo on the plate. Then I was picking my girlfriend up from school and I was giving it gas and it would die, I think , hey must be spark plugs. Replaced them started up and backfired, and it hasn't ran but I think once since that time, we have replaced the fuel filter, the fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel injector, with brand new OEM replacements, and the main injector is still just spitting out way too much gas, thereby flooding the engine and it can't even start. I hope this is what you were looking for tx I could really use your help

Apology is accepted. My "reward" is getting a report if the suggestions work or not.

ECT = Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The ECT Sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor). The resistance of the thermistor decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. It's a primary input to the ECM and affects fuel injector pulse width, similar to what the oxygen sensor does. It's located on the thermostat. It provides a richer mixture when cold, leaner mixture when hot.

TX,
That's an awesome website with tons of info about both new and older diesel trucks. I will test the glow plugs over the weekend and let you know if that's the problem. I am thinking right now it is, because I failed to mention that they sent me the wrong glow plug ( I had to get it from a dealership) and I have been driving around with a bolt in the hole that the glow plug is supposed to be in! I did that to prevent exhaust leak. I am waiting for them to get me the right one, but that website suggested replacing all of them at once. I am going to test them anyway, just to satisfy both of our curiosity. Thanks again and I will let you know how it works out.

What would I do to check that because that part doesn't even come up in my haynes manual

Would it be this part right here---> While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com (http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=WT5009&PartType=290&PTSet=A)

That's it. The only two sensors that I know of that affect the injectors are the ECT and oxygen. See if my suggestion makes sense to you, since I have never seen flooding on a Honda.

Before buying a new ECT Sensor, I would advance the timing. This may be why your Civic is flooding; i.e. it won't start because the timing is too retarded and backfiring. Loosen the three distributor mounting bolts and rotate distributor 1/4" counterclockwise. If this solves the problem, you can place a timing light on it later to precisely set the timing.

TXGM, 91 civic. Cranks but no start. CEL illuminates/relay clicks and turns off after 2 seconds as advertised, as well as a hum from the fuel pump. Checked battery charge.12 volts + Good Checked all relevant fuses in the engine comp. and under dash. Good. Tested across the coil terminals .8 resistance Good. Tested for power to the ICM on both blk/yel & wht/blu 12 volts Good. Removed a spark plug with wire attached and spark is visible. Good
Considered a possible fuel problem, sprayed carb cleaner in the intake while cranking, no difference.

Considering replacing the entire distributor either way, and fuel filter. 165k miles on engine.
Would appreciate your assistance on getting this bad boy fired up.

First, install a new ICM and coil. Second, if the problem persists, transfer the new ICM and coil to a new genuine Honda distributor housing. Keep me posted.

TXGM.. What are your thoughts of a non OEM complete distributor for $140 SHIPPED with a lifetime warranty? I called the local Honda dealer today, and was quoted $120 just for the coil. (special order)
Im thinking if the aftermarket company will back the distributor lifetime, vs. overpaying for one it may be the better way to go.

I prefer installing an aftermarket ICM and coil in a Honda distributor housing ($135)--that's what I did.

I bought an OEM coil (TEC 30510PT2006) for my Civic from RockAuto.com for $43.90. It's the same TEC OEM coil that came in the car.

I will get you the results as soon as they become available. I have heard many other with similar symptoms. The distributor ohms out good, and ends up being defective after all. I suppose this is a common hidden malfunction.

Yes, I place very little faith in bench testing ICMs and coils.

I woke up this morning with the thought in my mind that spark was present while cranking the motor. So why am I leaning so much towards an ICM or coil? I then decided to go rent a compression tester and perform a compression check. You guessed it, bad news. I am not getting anymore than 60 parts out of any of the cylinders. Im now thinking if I am going to perform a rebuild I might as well go with an upgrade. Considering installing a VTEC motor. Many available local, however most have been removed from 5th generation civics. Do these bolt in without modifiaction? Obviously I will need more than just the motor itself. ECM and complete wire/vacuum harness must be included. What is your 2 cents on this.

Never been involved in that process. Personally, I would rebuild or install the same engine. Many try installing other engines and can't get them to start for the reasons you mentioned. I'd keep it simple and move forward.

On your new engine, use full-synthetic engine oil (e.g. Mobil 1) and then you will never wear it out or have major engine problems.

Makes sense. Hopefully other viewers have learned a lot from this thread. Another bit of info is these engines should compress at least 145 parts of pressure per cylinder. If you are experiencing a crank but no start malfunction and have performed all ignition trouble shooting procedures posted by TXGM then it is not a bad idea to also perform a compression check, and ensure timing belt is good and timed properly.

Hey tx , the sensor you told me to check and the 02 sensor, are not the only sensors that control the spray width and durration, there are seven sensors, all of which are tied into the self diagnosis system, so if one of them went bad, my check engine light would come on and my Computer would set a code, neither of those are happening and the timing is correct, we think it could be the sparkplug wires, what do you think?

Don't have any other ideas--just go over everything possible and establish a "baseline" of what you know is good.

Well I replaced the sparkplugs and wires, and it ran, but still idles up and down, but if it runs for a few minutes, the idle settles into normal operation, but if you hit the gas it bogs down and starts to idle up and down again, we thought maybe a gasket but we sprayed carb cleaner around all the intake manny, and it didn't pick it up. I was recently told that the programmed fuel injection could be causing these symptoms, any ideas?

Have you cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve, including hoses, and throttle body? I doubt the problem is with the PGM-FI system. It's likely something more basic.

I agree with TXGM, clean or replace your IACV(clean it first). I would also run a fuel pressure test. (it should be around 40 psi) Does the car run good otherwise? Accelerates smoothly?

Check for the "click" sound of the main relay under the left side of the dash. If the fuel filter has not been changed in years change it, or a clogged filter will cause the pump to fail prematuerlly.

Heyy... I have a 1990 civic car won't stay running checked and replaced main relay... the car starts for a couple of minutes then shuts down... then you can't hear the fuel pump come on... if you let it sit for a bit then it will start then stop again...

Does it have spark when it decides to not start?