I want to move my faucets and shower head to a different wall within the shower enclosure. Is it possible without having to dig into the foundation of my house?

It can be done but you need to open the wall on the shower stall side or the opposite side of the wall. You will have some patching to do so what is the shower enclosure made of?

My shower is made of acryllic. But I'm removing that so that it can be tiled. For more space in the shower I need to move the faucet and shower head to a different wall without having to dig into the foundation. I got a $1416.00 quote from a plumber to move the plumbing back about 8 inches for more space. So I figured it would be less expensive to just reroute the lines to another wall. Is that possible? The shower enclosure is more long than wide and I'd like to move the fixtures to another wall without having to move the plumbing within the foundation. Will that be possible?

You can reroute the pipes inside the wall and then cover the wall with a vapor barrier and Hardiebacker board before tiling. No need to get into the foundation or slab. You can reuse the faucets and shower arm if you wish but adding some pipe to extend the run behind the wall

So would I just cut the pipes and reroute with new pipes and then reuse the old faucet and shower arm. I'm sorry if my questioning is bothersome. I just want to be sure before I cut the copper lines.

Well first thing would be to shut down your main and open the faucets in the house, several rooms, to drain the lines. Remove the escutcheon plates for the shower valve and handle(s), unscrew shower arm with a web wrench if you plan to reuse. Now cut the enclosure with a reciprocating saw and take out in pieces, I don't know what type of drain you have so I can't tell you what to do on the drain. Once this is all done and out you will see either sheet rock behind the enclosure of bare studs, if sheet rock remove it down to the studs, cover with visqueen vapor barrier and then screw Hardiebacker boards to all the walls that will ever get wet. Once you open this pdf then expand it to 100% to read.

move the plumbing back about 8 inches for more space.

What does that mean?

Why not show us a picture of the shower. Put blue tape where you want to move the valve and shower head. I hope you don't want to move them to an outside wall.

This is how the shower looks from the lines to the stall itself. The blue tape is pointing to the wall where I want to move the faucet handles and shower arm.

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This is were the plumber wants to move the plumbing back 8 inches.

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Enclosed is sketch for better visualization...

Usually it is better to reroute pipe through ceiling bcs joist are running across the width of the bathroom. Therefore, you don't have to drill through so many studs.

You can use soft copper. This way you will have only 2 sweat joints on each run and no sharp 90s.

Yes, you can reuse your old, 2 handle shower faucet. In this case, you will cross pipes at the opposite wall. If you use single handle faucet with cartridge, you don't have to cross pipes. You will just turn the cartridge 180 degrees.

What are your plans with shower pan ?

As far as the price goes: I think your plumber is a bit too high. It is about 3 hour job for plumber provided you do all the demo. I think it is worth about $750.00.

Mr Milo Dolezal, Thank you. However my shower is not that big; only a 36" L by 30 W and the drain is not centered can I still move the lines without having to worry about the drain?

Drain can stay where it is, not dependent of the valves at all. However, going from fiberglass to tile will require a different drain connection. Are you installing a mud pan from scratch or a acrylic pan like a Swanstone? Swanstone Products (http://www.theswancorp.com/index.php?cat=4&attr=78)

I want to install a mudpan from scratch

jasuga42: It doesn't matter how big your shower is. I just wanted to give you general idea how to move the pipes. You can move the pipes any direction you want. I don't think you have to move the drain unless you want it or unless the design calls for it. Drain issue is unrelated to relocating water pipes. You can leave it the way it is.

OK mud pan from scratch, you picked the trickiest installation of all, got any experience with this? Maybe explore this option rather than a mudder. Shower Systems - Schluter-Systems (http://www.schluter.com/143.aspx) I do not even do mud pans myself.

I want to install a mudpan from scratch


Mud pan is a good choice. As Ballengerb1 points out, you will need specific drain head. It is either plastic or Cast Iron.

Are you planning on installing the pan yourself or do you plan on calling a professional ?

I plan on doing the pan myself

Hmmm... I doubt you can do Mud Pan yourself. You can do the prep work yourself - but the actual Hot Mopping will most likely be done by a professional.

Watch this video clip: is this something you think you can accomplish by yourself ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rxj8i7gpfPg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6h_4owrXcw&feature=related

You're probably right, because I've never heard of the term hot mopping. But can a professional be expensive?

For 3'x3' my guy charges about $300.00.

Opinions differ. Here, in So.California, we consider Hot Mop the best waterproofing for shower pans. I would not go with any other method in my own house.

Also, you can use PVC liner or prefab plastic pan...

$300.00 isn't a bad price. If I got a prefab plastic, then I'd have to move the drain wouldn't I?

That depends on exactly where your current drain is located. If it's a fiberglass enclosure now it must be standard so you may find one that works. Try opening my Swanstone link or the Schluter system link, both better options than a mud pan for a DIYer