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View Full Version : Shower Stall Assembly Exploded view


tendcol
Sep 18, 2009, 11:17 AM
I would like to see an exploded view the shower stall drain assembly

cyberheater
Sep 18, 2009, 11:37 AM
Which one? Hey - if you know what kind you are looking at, they may have one at that company's site. If it's for a tile floor, that would be different as well.

ballengerb1
Sep 18, 2009, 12:53 PM
I agree, we must know the type of shower you have; acrylic, fiber glass, tile, cast.

tendcol
Sep 18, 2009, 01:55 PM
It's a fibergalss shower stall.

massplumber2008
Sep 18, 2009, 02:11 PM
Hi Tencol...

What type of shower strainer do you have now? I understand the shower stall is fiberglass... what type of shower strainer did you purchase? Is it simnilar to the one below? May be yours is plastic?


Let me know...

MARK

tendcol
Sep 18, 2009, 02:17 PM
See attached picture of the shower drain as it is right now. It appears that I need to put snake of plumbers putty before putting the strainer back on, right?

massplumber2008
Sep 18, 2009, 02:20 PM
The way that strainer assembly is now, you should just need to pop in the strainer grate on the left of photo... no putty needed.

You didn't remove the entire strainer assembly did you?

tendcol
Sep 18, 2009, 02:23 PM
I've got a leak from the drain pipe and I feel that I need to put a rubber gasket/seal to stop the leak. It appears to be coming from the drain assembly and running down the pipe.

massplumber2008
Sep 18, 2009, 02:29 PM
OK... finally... ;) I understand!

I gave you the exploded view of your strainer... posted below again.

Can you tell if the leak is from the drain connection (the rubber seal under the brass lock ring) and it is leaking only on the pipe underneath, or is it leaking from the strainer assembly (in between the shower floor and the strainer assembly)?

Let me know...

speedball1
Sep 19, 2009, 06:07 AM
Is that a lead and oakum poured and caulked joint I see around the drain pipe? Can you get to the underside of your shower?
Let me know, Tom

tendcol
Sep 20, 2009, 05:09 PM
Yes, it's linking from underneath around the connection and running down the side of the pipe. The only thing I changed on this shower was the strainer. We hardly ever use this shower and have never had a problem with it until now. It has to be something that I did or didn't do when I changed out the strainer.

Yes, I forgot to mention yes, I can get to the coupling from underneath. Is there a something there that I need to tighten? What would have come loose since there are no moving parts and we never use the shower?

PS
The house is about 30 years old.

speedball1
Sep 21, 2009, 04:16 AM
I still want to know, "Is that a lead and oakum poured and caulked joint I see around a cast iron drain pipe?" Take a knife and scrape some of that ring. Is it metal and is it sort of soft and shiney? If so then you have a caulk on shower drain, (see image).
Or if you can see under the shower floor does the drain have a large nut on it like this?(see image) It's important that we know exactly what type of drain that your shower has. Back to you, Tom

tendcol
Sep 21, 2009, 10:14 AM
From the shower stall side of the drain I do not see oakum around the joint. I don't see any type of seal or caulking at all around the joint. If you'd like I could take a close up of the drain. Yes, the strainer is metal.


I scraped the surface surrounding the center drain pipe. All of the material surrounding the drain pipe is brass and the center pipe shown in the picture is PVC.

Here's a picture of the shower drain assembly, all brass except for the center pipe which is made of PVC,

speedball1
Sep 21, 2009, 11:08 AM
Thank you, the picture's much clearer now. The dark area in the first picture looked like a lead joimt. Is there a large nut under the drain? If so can you get to it? Something I should have asked earlier, Does the shower floor give and flex a bit when you step on it? Regards, Tom

tendcol
Sep 21, 2009, 12:32 PM
All three views were taken from below the shower drain assembly. Will these pictures help you understand the problem? Let me know if you need me to do any more dectective work.

speedball1
Sep 21, 2009, 12:41 PM
OK! You have a metal version of the PVC drain I put up. Squirt some WD-40 on the threads and try to loosen the nut so you can lift the drain up and clean the seal from under the lip. Now roll a small rope of plumbers putty and place it under the lip of the drain, (you may also use Silicone Jel if you wish. Retighten the nut and you're back in business, good luck, Tom

tendcol
Sep 21, 2009, 02:45 PM
Is that seal visible in the pictures I took from below? It's going to be fun trying to loosen that nut from the area that it's located. I'm going to try and use a swivel wrench to get it loosened up. I surmize that once I clean the seal and add the small rope of plumbers putty that this will solve my problem? Where do I put the plumbers putty? On top of the seal or underneath the seal? Or will I answer my own question once I take the assembly apart?

speedball1
Sep 21, 2009, 03:29 PM
Are you thinking that the rubber gasket is the one that I'm talking about? I'm speaking about the putty seal under the lip of the drain on top of the shower floor. Regards, Tom

tendcol
Sep 22, 2009, 07:38 AM
Are you saying that I will need to completely take apart the assembly or just loosen it enough to to clean the old putty off under the lip and put the new rope of putty down, right? The rubber seal underneath does not need to have anything done to it?

speedball1
Sep 22, 2009, 09:59 AM
Correct! All you'll have to do is loosen the nut enough to lift the drain lip enough to clean out the old seal and install a new one. The rubber gasket stays where it is.
Good luck, Tom

tendcol
Sep 23, 2009, 07:35 AM
Good morning Speedball1 happy Wednesday, I have one more question regarding the tool(s) needed to loosen the drain assembly. As you can see from the picture I've got a cramped space to work in. What tool would you recommend that I use to accomplish the task? Your assistance will be appreciated.

speedball1
Sep 23, 2009, 11:08 AM
What tool would you recommend that I use to accomplish the task?

The first thing I would do is load the threads up with WD-40. Then I would take a dull chisel, (you don'[t want to cut into the brass nut with a sharp one) and tap away and try to start the thread to loosen. The make drain wrenches, (see images) to fit the large nut but if you can start the nut turning counterclockwise perhaps you can "tap" it off so the drain can be lifted enough to replace the drain seal. Good luck, Tom