Power engaged hydrostatic, slows down, needs wheels for deck, how do I reset service light and hours:mad:

Hi,
Yard King was a brand that had models made by different companies. Would need a model number to answer that. Generally it is Murray or AYP.
Peace,
Clarke

Hi,
I pressed the submit button before I was done, so here is the rest of the story.
We bought it used. The service light was on and showed 80 hours.
We drained and changed the oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plug. Charged the battery and checked the water level(ok). We cleaned all the grass from up under the decking and aired up the tires. Put it on a level ground and re adjusted the deck level. SO we thought we were ready to go, right?
Problem #1 == The service light still is on... do not know how to reset it. Is there anything else we should have done?
Problem #2 == When we go up the slightest incline(full throttle) it does not have much umph(guts), if engaged. Most times it stops moving(engine still running). If not engaged it may make it up(full throttle) Any ideas?
Problem #3 == When it cuts it scalped everything(no matter level ground or not). The deck setting is raised as high as it can be. The hard rubber wheels have the cotter pin in the last hole, so they are down as far as they can be. But still it does not have much clearance. Is there any other way to adjust it? Are we missing something? Can wheels replacements with longer shanks be purchased? Are they universal?
Problem #4 == when first started, smoke comes out for 30 seconds from in front of mower under engine area. It has been a long time since oil changed, etc. So it cannot be that. It does fogg the mosquitoes pretty good though. If started after used for a while or long while, still smokes. Okay I give up?? What is this?
Problem #5 == We checked the belt when not engaged and it is loose. When engaged, but not running(safety) belt seems tight. But when we start to mow and engage it a lot of rattling comes from the left under side of deck and on top of deck but under the square cover plate. So we have to full throttle to mow with little rattling.(full throttle seems to help) Ideas?
So about now I am thinking LEMON!! *@#*^#@ Are you, too?
But then again you could be thinking I have no business owning a riding lawn mower... :)

Hi,
Still need that model number! Maybe now more than ever since you said water level and Power King mad a couple of models.
Actually, as much info as possible, would be wisest; engine make and model, frame model, deck size, number of blades, etc.
Seems obvious that you are using oil for whatever reason, maybe poor maintenance previous to you or wrong oil, etc.
Peace,
Clarke

hey,
OK dug through all the paper work and found the yellow piece of paper I wrote everything on. Ya know how that goes some days.
Gray color body and hood to engine. Says "yard king" on sides == 8 hp Kohler Elite 46 inch cut
model # 465615X99A MFG Date 01030 Serial #7461103014S068

Hope this helps... :)

Hi,
Found the parts breakdown, and it is small enough to attach. The engine appears to be an 18HP Kohler Command V-Twin, so it difinitely uses 10W30. It is made by Murray with their basic 46" deck in 2001.
The noise in the deck I would think might be a spindle housing/bearing. Easiest way to check is, with the machine off, grab blades by end and try to wiggle up and down and watch (and feel) for movement. I will get back to you on the scalping as I will need to study the breakdown.
The oil situation might be cured or helped by a couple of oil changes in close succession. Always use a good name brand oil and 10W30. Best done after mowing when the oil is hot and stirred up. Just take care!
Peace,
Clarke

wow, that was fast. Thank you.
I will try and jiggle the blade tomorrow morning and let you know. Raining now.
All the parts we got from a John Deere dealer close by. They did recommend oil ==
Premium 4 cycle lawnmower motor oil SAE30, bought 3 quarts. Put one in and a filter and after one partial mow put almost 1/2 a 2nd one in.
I will wait for your ideas

Hi,
I found thr Owner's Manual for the engine I said I thought you have. You can look at the picture and if it is it I suggest you check out that it calls for 10W30, over 1 1/2 qts and that there is a apecial way to check the oil (unscrew the dipstick, remove, wipe and lay it down on the top of the tube - do not thread - and remove to check.
Peace,
Clarke

Thank you, soooooo much.
I will look to see if it is the same one. Then I will print the manual. That is superb! Then I will have the oil drained and new 10-30 put in. Do you think I should change the oil filter again, too?
Thank you again~~!

Hello Clarke,
I finally got someone that is somewhat mechanical to come look at this mower. He ran it and mowed a little with it.
Problem #1===Drained the oil and the oil was very clean. He put 1 and 1/2 qt of 10-30 in it. Kept same filter on.
#2 ==he looked under deck and wiggled blade on left side or near brake.(there are two blades). He said that the blade that attaches to the deck, where it attaches there is NO bushing? Bearing? It is loose as a goose. And he was surprised it has not come off. He said it does not turn and cut at all. This is probably the rattling I was hearing..
So that would explain the left side not cutting.
#3 == he said transmission fluid was zero... what would cause it to all go away? What kind should I use? Before I used lawnmower trans fluid.
more in a little bit

Hi,
Glad to have helped in some little way! Your transaxle is a Peerless VST205. The oil spec is not published since they say it is not serviceable. Then they turn right around and tell you haw to check. Most modern transaxles will function on 10W30 because of the additive package that is in any oil graded SJ or up. See:
http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/html/engine-specs/tecumseh/Tecumseh_Transaxle_Service_Information.pdf
Peace,
Clarke

Hello Clarke,
so earlier I wrote this below------when you are talking about transaxle... does that mean transmission fluid? You lost me on that one...

I finally got someone that is somewhat mechanical to come look at this mower. He ran it and mowed a little with it.
Problem #1===Drained the oil and the oil was very clean. He put 1 and 1/2 qt of 10-30 in it. Kept same filter on.
#2 ==he looked under deck and wiggled blade on left side or near brake.(there are two blades). He said that the blade that attaches to the deck, where it attaches there is NO bushing? Bearing? It is loose as a goose. And he was surprised it has not come off. He said it does not turn and cut at all. This is probably the rattling I was hearing..
So that would explain the left side not cutting.
#3 == he said transmission fluid was zero... what would cause it to all go away? What kind should I use? Before I used lawnmower trans fluid.
more in a little bit

Hi,
A transaxle is a combination of the transmission and the axle assembly (including differential.)
Looking up the VST in the Lubrication section near the front gives no listing of what fluid to use. A look at the other info on the VST gives two places to check the fluid levels, one being the depth to the expansion bladder at the front and the other the fluid level through a hole in the top of the unit. Of particular note is the fact that the latter only measures 3/8 - 1/2" from the bottom (which would appear to be very little.) Most fluid is actually in two chambers that are not accessible. No repair or disassembly info is available that I know of. When introduced and still under warranty, units that failed were replaced and the failed item was shipped back to the factory for them to examine.
Because of design errors, the unit was not well received and competitors got most of the market.
Peace,
Clarke

Hey Clarke,
well I have had a couple of guys over to help me with the mower. The new old oil was drained out and newest 10w30 was put in. The oil that was drained out only maybe had 3 hrs on it. The guy said it was very clean when he drained it out. I mowed a little with it. When first started up 30 seconds of large smoke blue/grey still comes out from in front of the headlight, engine area... So that part has not changed.
The rattling sound... the guy got underneath the mower and he told me there are 3 blades. The one closest to the brake was the one rattling and the guy easily move it. Pretty soon he handed the blade to me. There is a big hole in the middle of the blade. I guess he said that is where the spindle goes... there was nothing there at all. Maybe that makes sense to you...
I am still lost. Needless to say the blade is toast = bent, rusted chips, etc. My neighbor cold not even bend it back nor sharpen it. Are they easy to find to purchase? Are they universal?
later...

Hi,
No you will not straighten a blade without a blacksmith's forge or similar. I attached a parts breakdown earlier, but the link to it is:
http://www.outdoordistributors.com/pdf/Murray/MURRAY-MODEL-465615X99A-LAWN-TRACTOR-(2001)-PARTS-LIST.pdf
And the blade is listed as a #656631 and the hub it fits on is#95416. The hole in the center should be about 1" diameter. Be sure to check spindles/bearings, also.
Peace,
Clarke
PS Check your Yellow Pages under "Lawn... " for dealers, and let your fingers do the walking; or that manual is at an online dealer (remove anything after the dot com.)