I am moving control valves for sinks, shower and toilet in a bathroom remodel project. The bathroom currently has copper plumbing. My questions are: 1. Is it possible/advisable to switch from copper to pvc to extend the supply lines for the new fixtures (2 sinks, 1 shower and 1 toilet are affected -- all are in new locations). What type of fittings are required to switch from copper to pvc? What tools, fittings/supplies are needed to extend the copper supply lines if I decide against the switch to pvc? Is it reasonable to assume:) that an amateur plumber can work with copper plumbing -- is it that difficult?

Thanks,

Bobby

I am an amateur plumber too and have only done work with copper.

It's not that hard, at least at the 1/2" and 3/4" sizes. It gets harder as the pipes get bigger trying to maintain an even amount of heat on the joint. That's the biggest issue, applying heat. It's actually very easy to work with copper, you basically test fit everything dry and then solder it up. As long as you clean your joints well and use a quality flux, it goes pretty easily.

They do make transition pieces for PVC. I've never used them though. I'm just more comfortable with copper.

Sounds great. Thanks for this answer too, medic-dan!

Take care,

Soldering is not difficult but there is a learning curve. Purchase some pipe, a tubing cutter, some fittings, flux, solder and a propane torch. Practice.

There are a number of tips, like don't use too much flux, just a thin film on the pipe and the fitting. Some people say don't flux the fitting. Heat the fitting, put your flame on one side and the solder on the other. That way you know the fitting is hot all the way around. Practice some "uphill" joints. Take two pieces of pipe and a coupling, stand it vertical and solder, making the solder run uphill into the bottom joint. Water is your biggest enemy, you just can't get a joint hot enough if there is any water in the pipe. Don't use an excessive amount of solder. When heated solder liquefies and flows in between the two pieces of pipe. The gap between the two isn't very big.
If you keep heating and applying solder it will just run inside of the pipe, to later break loose and stop up your valves.

Cut you pipe up, solder it back together using a verity of fittings. Put a cap on one end, solder on a hose bib on the other. Pick up a clothes washer hose (it has female connections on both ends). Use the washer hose and you garden hose to connect to your water supply and check for leaks.
Practice, practice, practice before you cut into your water system and can't turn the water back on because you have a leak. A piece of aluminum foil, folded about four times and stuck to a 2x4 with a thumb tack makes a nice heat shield, don't want to see any scorched wood. Purchase the smaller tip for your torch, the tip, not the knob determines the size of the flame, usually you don't need a big flame.

Whodiki:

You wouldn't use PVC for water piping but you could transition over from the copper piping to CPVC. CPVC isn't much different than PVC but it is rated for hot water delivery and PVC isn't.

You could solder copper FEMALE adapters onto the copper pipe and then install CPVC MALE adapters to make the transitions... see images. Wrap some 1/2" teflon tape on the CPVC male threads before installing the PRE-SOLDERED female adapter. Be sure to read the CPVC cement can for directions on applying cement/primer (if needed).

Otherwise, as mentioned above, since you really need to do some soldering no matter what you do here, with some practice... you can probably just extend the copper pipe using copper couplings and elbows and be done with it all pretty quick... ;)

Here's a very simple video that may help get you started:

YouTube - How to Solder Copper Pipe (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doqoEJJOdYA)

Let us know if we can help...

MARK

You can stay with copper tubing and use the Sharkbite fittings, see the link below, Thanks.

John

Welcome To Cash Acme (http://www.cashacme.com/prod_sharkbite.php)