Hello my names tyler I'm new to your site.
I have a well at my house and recently have lost water pressure my gage use to read 60 psi when I bought the house and is now down to 45psi. What could be the cause of that.when I use water my pump turns on when down to 40psi and turns off when reached to 60psi then falls to 45psi again andstays there till water is on again. I turned the big spring on the valve box to increase my water. I moved it to 50psi to see how everything works out.should I increase it more.then next would be what can I do to not lose water when washing machine is running or toilet was flushed and very low water in shower or sinks. Thank you and please help asap.

It's a little difficult to follow your description, but I think this is what you are saying. When you use water, the pressure drops to 40# and the pump turns on. Then the pressure slowly rises to 60# and the pump cuts off. However, at that point, even when water is not being used, the pressure drops to 45# and holds there. So you are wondering why the pressure drops to 45# instead of holding at 60# as it should. Is that correct?

Not real sure what you mean about turning the switch (valve box) up to 50#.

It's kind of hard to come up with an answer until we really understand your situation.

Tell us a little something about yourself. How old is your house. What piping do you have? Copper, plastic or galvanized? Pressure or bladder tank? When you make all these pressure changes at the control box do you also reset the bladder tank, (if you have one) pressure? Let us know, Tom

Yes you are right. The pressure turnsoff at 60 and slowly moves down to 45 and stays there.
The house is right at 40 years old. But has had new well drilled and new wtaer lines added that I can tell.I know it's a new well cause I can still see the old one on the side of the house. The pipe coming in is 1inch pvc that runs from the well to the blue tank in my basement.then reduces to 1/2inch copper to all the fixtures in the house.Except a few fixtures I can tell have been replaced or they are new cause they went from copper to pex pipe. Thank you for your help. I hope I can come up with what you need to here to help me.
The tank in my basement how do I tell if it's a bladder tank or a pressure tank.


It's a little difficult to follow your description, but I think this is what you are saying. When you use water, the pressure drops to 40# and the pump turns on. Then the pressure slowly rises to 60# and the pump cuts off. However, at that point, even when water is not being used, the pressure drops to 45# and holds there. So you are wondering why the pressure drops to 45# instead of holding at 60# as it should. Is that correct?

Not real sure what you mean about turning the switch (valve box) up to 50#.

It's kind of hard to come up with an answer until we really understand your situation.

Yes your correct
Thank you.

the blue tank in my basement how do I tell if it's a bladder tank or a pressure tank.
Bladder tanks are blue and pressure tanks are galvanized.( see image) Check the charge in your bladder tank. To set the air pressure in a bladder tank, look at the cut-in pressure on your pressure switch. Now drain the line down with the pump off. When there is no more water coming out of the hose bib that you drained the system down with set the pressure in the bladder tank at 2 lbs. below the cut-in pressure. Check it with a tire gage. If your pressure control is set to come on at 20 PSI and go off at 40 PSI then your gage should read 18 PSI. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my reply

Sounds like you might have a leaking check valve. This is a spring loaded "gate" that keeps water from running from the pressure tank back down the well pipe once the pump cuts off. Sounds like yours might be leaking down from 60# to 45# and then holding. If that is the case, then you should be able to watch the pressure fall relatively slowly from 60 to 45.

Is your pump above ground or in the well?

I should add that, with only 1/2" copper going into the house, you are going to have a volume problem when more than one fixture is on. Speedball can address this better than me, but typically 3/4" is run into the house, and then 1/2" goes to particular areas or fixtures.

The pump is in the well.

Is this something I could fix myself or should I call in a pro.

You both have been very helpful for me thank you again.

Depends. If you can see the checkvalve above ground, then replacing it is not the hardest thing in the world, assuming, of course, that it's the problem. If there is one above ground, then it will be between the pressure tank and the wellhead. This shows a picture of one. In the picture it is to the left of the faucet.

Google Image Result for http://www.buypumpswholesale.com/files/1928173/uploaded/tanktee.jpg (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.buypumpswholesale.com/files/1928173/uploaded/tanktee.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.buypumpswholesale.com/wellhead_diagram&usg=__bPYVpgKT8281xF4YhZny_AX6u-8=&h=736&w=876&sz=76&hl=en&start=4&um=1&tbnid=bCmDR-6Fi_qLEM:&tbnh=123&tbnw=146&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcheck%2Bvalve%2B%252Bresidential%2B%2 52B%2522water%2Bwell%2522%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%2 6sa%3DN%26um%3D1)

When you make all these pressure changes at the control box do you also reset the bladder tank, Let us know, Tom