What is the average distance between the base and the upper kitchen cabinets? Should I take into consideration the tile size what I am planning to put between the upper and base cabinets? Is any standards how far the fan/went assembly should be from the stove? Thanks.

The upper wall cabinets should be approximately 18" above the counter top.
Yes, you can take tile size into consideration. It's called thinking ahead. Don't forget back splash. If you are using 36" cabinets which go up to, or close to the ceiling, leave enough space between the top of the cabinet door and the ceiling for the molding.

Exhaust vent? Ceiling or wall?

Find the high spot along the floor and mark a level line at 34 1/2" around the room from that point. If you are going around multiple walls/obstacles, a water level comes in real handy for this. from that point, measure up 19 1/2" and make another level line. It's at that point that you will install a ledger on which to support your upper cabinets for easy one handed installation. When done, giving an allowance of 1.5" for your counter top thickness, you will have 18" between your counter top and your upper cabinets. I cannot remember the distance between the stove and a vent, but the minimum distance is clearly listed in the instructions and any place that helps with the kitchen cabinet layout will take that minimum into consideration.

It would be nice if the tile size were a consideration for the distance between the upper and lower cabinets, but no, it is not, I just get to enjoy more running back and forth from the wet saw.

Thanks for the information.

Ya know, I'd also like to add a few more bits of info that might make things go smoother for you as well.

If you plan to replace the sheetrock, hang the full sheet 2.5' off the ground. This keeps all horizontal joints behind cabinets where just a single coat with tape is all you would need to do. Since the base cabs go in last, up until you need to put them in, you can leave the bottom section of rock open for easy running of wiring or plumbing.

If you want to tile your backsplash, install adjustable depth boxes. These electrical boxes have a screw on the inside that allows you to dial in or out to meet up flush with the face of the tile. Also, wherever you will install a nail plate to protect plumbing or wires, or will be installing an electrical box that hugs the front edge of the stud, use a file to shave down the spot where said plate will be attached. This will prevent any bulges in the wall surface when you plan to tile.

Plan for your flooring. Depending upon what you choose, and the order of installation, you might want to build up the footprint area of the cabinets prior to installing them. IF you were to be installing 3/4" hardwood or an expensive tile and they were to go in after the cabinet installation, without building up the footprint of your cabinets, your dishwasher and possibly your fridge won't fit.

Where cabinets are left with a gap, such as the opening for the dishwasher, when you make your marks on the level line for where the base cabinets align, most often the face frame sticks out past the side of the cabinet and if you line up the back corner of the cabinet exactly on the mark on the wall where the cabinet should go, without allowing the distance of the face frame, you could create clearance issues for the width of the appliance.


Anyone else want to throw some tips this way?

When I install upper cabinets the bottom of the uppers are in stalled 54" above finished flooring, as for stove hood each hood has it's install height usually about the same they work best if installed no higher than 25" above stove top..

Never laid out a kitchen measuring to a bottom cabinet ever. How would that work for different size cabinets...
Standard cabinets max being a 30" cab Finished heights starts at 7' off the Finish floor if its just luan with vinyl. From that point dedicates the locations of all cabinets bottom height above the counter top depending on the cabinets sizes you get.

This is also what the standard pantry is built at 84". There are taller cabinets that come from the ceiling down but you need stilts to reach them for usage.
I have customers that hate that last 11" or so above the cabinets. So to solve that I still use standard cab. I build drywalled soffits off the ceiling and bring them out from the upper cabinets face.

I Then install flush mounted can lights in all the soffits and zone them out with dimmer switches. It's a great way to light up the room and create different ambiances. The soft light when wanted Vs over the cabinets face and yet evenly lights up the room.

Also it lets us have the opportunity to use it as a chase way for venting/drainage plumbing for the up stairs or makes a space to run the sink vent away from the outside plate and into the attic of a one story.

21 boat
If you take the standard 34 1/2" base cabinet 1 1/2" for counter top 18' space that equals 54" you can install 30" - 42" upper cabinets with an 8' ceiling height. 54" + 42" = 96"
With a 7' ceiling height you could only use 30" uppers max. installing uppers first is a lot easier than lifting the uppers over the base cabinets

If you take the standard 34 1/2" base cabinet
I install kitchens. G.C. Know the specks. That 34 1/2" can change by an inch or so on rehab if bases needs to be scribed to the floor slope/dip to be level.

We never hang a kitchen measuring off a counter/height for many reasons

It all plays out from the finished heights that needs to be hit. The Higher pantry for an 8' hang still needs to be measured off finish floor to start the rest of the uppers at the correct height


If you are using 36" cabinets which go up to, or close to the ceiling, leave enough space between the top of the cabinet door and the ceiling for the molding. That may not be an option if a pantry is involved or cut down the pantry base which all bases needs cut down. Can't do the top unless all tops are cut or the door heights will be off to pantry door

On
rehabs when its wall to wall I will use a 3/4 ply on the whole wall over old plaster then drywall. This takes the waves out of the wall and makes a nice flat for cabs to sit against. Also you can change the whole layout and no worries for hanging or last minute cab change by customer The whole wall is a nailer


installing uppers first is a lot easier than lifting the uppers over the base cabinets That's why I said work form the top finish height and no mistakes are made
Never did it other wise since I started hanging kit since 79

Note: The finish counter top can vary in thickens at its set height even though the profile looks the same. When making them on site this can change depending on the profile of the drop edge weather you add that drop edge on the edge of the hard board or double up the whole counter all together and set the counter like that. Large Customs Islands gets into that territory. It can make a difference on measuring off the counter top. If a pantry is going in then your screwed for tops of all cabs to level to the pantry.Thats why I added the pantry as the control for a finished height which need to be obtained no matter what the base is set at or a 30" cab or to ceiling a 42" cab

Deerfoot

Should I take into consideration the tile size Normally not. The backer board/sub floor is considered the finish height at that point. The 4" toe kick lessened is not an issue by a tile thickness. If we have a real funky floor we install the toe kick face board after the base cab is set to scribe that into the tile floor or a bad floor where we had to shim a base up high in the middle or a really bad end run. Depending on certain tiles'flagstone we build up all the bases so we have enough room for the dishwasher to fit or the fridge with overhead cab

how far the fan/went assembly should be from the stove? That depends on the hood you get. Need to establish that in order to get the cabinet. Also the CFMs plays a role here.