View Full Version : New driveway cracking extensively
jkgillmore
Jul 21, 2009, 09:09 AM
Last August we had our driveway replaced with a new concrete driveway. Beginning in March of this year we began noticing cracks that continue on past the joints the contractor put in. This is happening in several parts of the driveway. They seem to be getting longer and wider. The contractors response is oh well concrete cracks but this seems to be more than I would expect to see. We are waiting for the concrete company to come evaluate the quality of the concrete. I say the mix was bad. There is also a spot on the driveway that dries slower than the rest of it and looks gravely. What do you think? Do we have a chance to get this driveway replaced by the contractor?
Thanks
21boat
Jul 21, 2009, 10:03 PM
This is always a tuff call. Do you know what mix was used and what time of day it was poured and the temp that day. All these factors plays a role here. Do you know if it has a stone base under the Crete?
The spot that dries slower. Is this in the shade/ has a dip there to puddle longer?
Can you post a pic?
ballengerb1
Jul 22, 2009, 11:25 AM
Yes, a picture of several cracks would be very helpful? Could be a bad mix or a bad install and prep. Hard call without being able to inspect. Were you there to see the prep, what was the prep? Large cracks happen from settling more than anything.
darrellg
Jul 23, 2009, 12:42 PM
You need to ask your contractor two things,How thick is the new concrete and was wire mesh installed. Then you need to look at your proposal (hope you got one) and see if you got what he said he would install. If there was nothing in writing you may be going down a hard and long road. Call your local building department and ask if the contractor is licened in the area and if there are any registered complaints. You have a little work to do .
jmc1324
Jul 24, 2009, 05:18 AM
From what you are describing sounds as if bad prep work was done either very little or no sub base used, rule of thumb for every inch of concrete you need that much gravel sub base, 4" concrete 4" of gravel, "loose gravel" river gravel NOT 2A, you need the gravel for drainage of water under your slab as the 2A will pack and not allow drainage...
As for the graevely section seems as either a bad batch or if only a small spot that the contractor ran out of concrete and just shoveled in gravel / fill to finish the job..
jkgillmore
Jul 24, 2009, 11:50 AM
Pictures from first question about extensive cracks in concrete driveway not even a year old yet.
JK, In the future please add on to your original thread and not start a new one. It makes us have to go back and merge the threads. Thanks Tom
ballengerb1
Jul 24, 2009, 02:08 PM
Bad base prep. I would be on that guys tail over this. Granted, all concrete cracks eventually but you's is very much premature and due to poor compaction of the base.
21boat
Jul 24, 2009, 05:45 PM
I'm with Bal on this. To follow up on that the control joint in the Crete was supposed to crack first. That only happens if the stone base was thick enough and mechanically tamped/roller vibrator. The other thing I don't agree with is there has to be an expansion joints in the Crete for this size poor. That's additional to the scored control joints you see now.
jmc1324
Jul 29, 2009, 07:45 PM
As we all said BAD PREP WORK after seeing the pictures and there are no expansion joint. WOW!! I'd be all over this contractor to replace at his cost. Also since the crack is about a foot away from a "CONTROL" joint my guess is there was TOO MUCH gravel in this area and not enough concrete. This usually happens when the load of gravel is dumped in the center of the driveway and shoveling or raking along the forms is on grade the center is usually crowned and over looked. Also the depth of the control joint should be 1/4 the thickness of the slab I use a 1 1/4" jointer in a 6" thick slab or I'll pre cut my joints with this jointer in a thinner slab ( 4" ) fill the joint with cream and re cut with a 5/8" jointer. 99% of my slabs crack along the control joint first.
And sorry Darrel wire mesh is not required if fiber mes was / is used... I stopped using wire mesh and only use fiber mesh. If the wire mesh is not pulled up into the wet concrete while pouring and it remains at the bottom of the pouring it's as good as not using mesh at all. FIBER MESH is the way to go...
1-800-ASPHALT
Aug 3, 2010, 05:24 AM
I am a asphalt/concrete contractor and I disagree with a lot of the advice here. I believe that the saw cut joint in the middle of the driveway was definitely not cut deep enough. A lot of times, contractors will basically score a saw line only 1/2" deep or so assuming that any cracking will naturally find this spot. What they neglect to realize is that the stronger, heavier mass of concrete will win when it comes to cracking. If the saw line is shallow, the crack can occur where the natural weak spot actually is. When it is all said and done, all of your options will depend on the exact wording of the contract. Society has lost faith in contracts holding up, but the courts happen. Carefully review every word and phrase that was put in writing.
1-800-ASPHALT
Aug 3, 2010, 05:24 AM
I am a asphalt/concrete contractor and I disagree with a lot of the advice here. I believe that the saw cut joint in the middle of the driveway was definitely not cut deep enough. A lot of times, contractors will basically score a saw line only 1/2" deep or so assuming that any cracking will naturally find this spot. What they neglect to realize is that the stronger, heavier mass of concrete will win when it comes to cracking. If the saw line is shallow, the crack can occur where the natural weak spot actually is. When it is all said and done, all of your options will depend on the exact wording of the contract. Society has lost faith in contracts holding up, but the courts happen. Carefully review every word and phrase that was put in writing.