When using a chain saw, how can I stop the chain from slipping out of its groove?

Don't know what size saw you have but most have the two nuts that hold the blade on. Loosen them and look for a screw that's beside the blade in the front of the saw tighten that to move the bar which tightens the chain. For proper adjustments for any chain saw as you tighten the screw lift the chain and start to pull the saw off the ground. If the chain guides lifts out of the bar slot but not completely out then it's the right tension. Re tighten nuts and your set. New saw has the chain adjustment screws by on the side where the nuts are. It's a flat flush screw. Look for a hole on side cover or parallel e to the chain bar.screw by the

If this saw is a cheap electric then there probably isn't any screw adjustment. Most sre adjusted buy physically pulling on the bar and that's it. Threw them away.

Snug up bar nuts then adjust chain tension with adjustment screw. Should be able to pull chain about 1/2" in center of bar. Then tighten bar nuts. Re-check tension.

Hi,
I do not disagree with anything written so far.
I would just say that in my experience, when adjusting one should lift the bar itself (clearing the chain) and get it snug to the rails of the bar. You should be able to pull it around the bar if pulled firmly. It should not be sloppy.
I say to lift for the reason that the first cut will push it up and that will line up all parts of the assembly which is the shortest distance. Try it sometime. Tighten a chain letting gravity pull down on the bar. Then make a cut and see if there is not a little slack. Then try it my way!
Peace,
Clarke
PS Never leave a "hot" chain completely tight. Loosen the chain slightly after extended use.

Hi,
I do not disagree with anything written so far.
I would just say that in my experience, when adjusting one should lift up on the bar itself (clearing the chain) and get it snug to the rails of the bar. You should be able to pull it around the bar if pulled firmly. It should not be sloppy.
I say to lift up for the reason that the first cut will push it up and that will line up all parts of the assembly which is the shortest distance. Try it sometime. Tighten a chain letting gravity pull down on the bar. Then make a cut and see if there is not a little slack. Then try it my way!
Peace,
Clarke
PS Never leave a "hot" chain completely tight. Loosen the chain slightly after extended use.Hi! crigby
When I get done here I'm going to give you a rep, because I found that out 'bout 45years ago, and it is still valid today.

K

I would just say that in my experience, when adjusting one should lift the bar itself (clearing the chain) and get it snug to the rails of the bar. You should be able to pull it around the bar if pulled firmly. It should not be sloppy.
Hi fellas. A lot also depends on the wood you are cutting. Last year I started to burn up a chain/bar because of the chain being to snug. Factory set/manual New Husk.. The saw works to hard that snug.

My tree cutters like to file down there rakes to cut faster. My adjustments seems to work on all our saws. I'm going to try the reverse here just to see how it goes. I still have a 24" John Deere I bought in 79 that's wearing me out.

Just on a side note. I use this to sharpen the chains for our saws. This tool pays for itself real quick
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93213)

For proper adjustments for any chain saw as you tighten the screw lift up the chain and start to pull the saw off the ground. If the chain guides lifts out of the bar slot but not completely out then its the right tension.If your tightening the cover nuts while still holding tension, I'd say your following the same procedure.

Hi fellas. A lot also depends on the wood you are cutting. Last year I started to burn up a chain/bar because of the chain being to snug. factory set/manual New Husk..The saw works to hard that snug.Agreed, with the "Bar" method, I have noticed one has to leave the chain a little looser to achieve the proper tensioning.
Maybe it's a mechanical "thing" with crigby and me, but it just "feels" better with the bar at a higher angle.

I posted a new thread 'bout the new to me, "adjust built into the bar" I can't get any lift outa' that bar.


My tree cutters like to file down there rakes to cut faster. My adjustments seems to work on all our saws. I'm going to try the reverse here just to see how it goes. :cool: Ok guys, stand back.....stand back......Boss gonna' test new cutter :D

I still have a 24" John Deere I bought in 79 thats wearing me out.Now, that's a lotta bar oil!

Just on a side note. I use this to sharpen the chains for our saws. This tool pays for itself real quick
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93213)Nice! How long have you had yours?

K

when using a chain saw, how can I stop the chain from slipping out of its groove?

Thank you all for you excellent tips. They will be tried out today.

jeang

Important safety tip: read the manual that comes with the saw. It covers correct chain tension. Always wear leather gloves when handling the chain itself.