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adkhkr
Jul 17, 2009, 08:19 PM
My town requires a whole house trap... do they make it in PVC or only cast iron. I went to a local plumbing supply and was told its only made in cast iron. I need to run a section of cast iron under the foundation but I was hoping to avoid connecting cast iron. Is connecting cast iron doable by a first timer if I had to or would I need to get a plumber.

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/housetrap.jpg

speedball1
Jul 18, 2009, 06:29 AM
My town requires a whole house trap...do they make it in PVC or only cast iron. I went to a local plumbing supply and was told its only made in cast iron. I need to run a section of cast iron under the foundation but I was hoping to avoid connecting cast iron. Is connecting cast iron doable by a first timer if I had to or would I need to get a plumber.

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/housetrap.jpg

You can makeyour own 4" running trap out of a 4" PVC return bend and two 4" PVC Street Ells, (see image) Good luck, Tom

adkhkr
Jul 18, 2009, 06:40 AM
Thanks Tom. If I wanted to have cleanouts on the house trap, can I put Ts on both end of the return bend instead of Street Ells?

Obviously this is a local issue, but would there be a reason why a PVC main house trap would be unacceptable or undesirable compared to a cast iron one?

speedball1
Jul 18, 2009, 07:07 AM
Thanks Tom. If I wanted to have cleanouts on the house trap, can I put Ts on both end of the return bend instead of Street Ells?

Obviously this is a local issue, but would there be a reason why a PVC main house trap would be unacceptable or undesirable compared to a cast iron one?

Yes! You cold use tees and bring then to grade with a cleanout. PVc/cast iron? A running trap's a running trap. There should be no reason a PVC running trap would be "unacceptable". Good luck, Tom

adkhkr
Jul 18, 2009, 07:45 AM
One last question before I go to the supply house... what type of PVC should I use... Sch 40, Sch 80, the green stuff?

Thanks.

Brad

speedball1
Jul 18, 2009, 07:52 AM
One last question before I go to the supply house...what type of PVC should I use...Sch 40, Sch 80, the green stuff?

Thanks.

Brad
Hey Brad,
Your sewer should be schedule#40 and that's what I'd use. Good luck, Tom

adkhkr
Jul 18, 2009, 09:55 AM
So I went to the plumbing supply house and picked up a 4" PVC return bend as suggested. Below is a picture of it... which side of the bend goes where or does it not matter? As you can see, one side has more of a radius on it than the other one.

My other question is that they didn't have straight 90 degree T's, all they had was Wye T's. The ones where one of the inlets comes into the T with a radius on it. Can you use these or should I shop around and find 90 degree T's?

Thanks.

Brad

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/0718091241.jpg

speedball1
Jul 18, 2009, 10:13 AM
The return bend looks just fine. Ask for a couple of 4" PVC Sanitary Tees and two 4"PVC cleanouts, (see images) They should get you going. Don't forget PurplePrimer and PVC Cement. Good luck, Tom

adkhkr
Jul 18, 2009, 10:31 AM
Tom,

Thank you very much for your help. When I was talking the guy at the plumbing store he mentioned that the only reason it is required to have cast iron through the house is because of structural reasons if it runs through the foundation. Seeing how my waste pipe is going to run under the footing this is a non-issue. Although its not going to be inspected, I want to do properly and to code so I decided to do it with a 5' section of cast iron under the footing.

I would much rather have an all PVC waste system and eliminate the 5' section of cast iron. The guy at the plumbing store was talking about cast iron rusting out and the thought of digging this out in the future to replace it makes me nervous.

I was thinking of putting the PVC under the footing in a cast iron/steel sleeve, what do you think about this? I can't see how this method could be rejected because its seems like a good solution, at least to me.

speedball1
Jul 18, 2009, 11:48 AM
Why should you have to "sleeve" anything if it's going under the footers and not through anything? That doesn't make sense. So whadda you going to sleeve? Inquiring minds want to know! Cheers, tom

adkhkr
Jul 18, 2009, 12:49 PM
It does sound stupid to sleeve something that doesn't need to be. Maybe I should just use PVC

speedball1
Jul 18, 2009, 01:44 PM
I would just run it under the footers. If you're not going to run it through a foundation what's to sleeve? Cheers, tom

adkhkr
Jul 22, 2009, 05:29 AM
I have another question... do I run the white Sch 40 PVC under the footer or the Green Pipe that comes in 13foot lengths? I was told that the "Green Pipe" is used outdoors to connect to the septic system. He said that its stronger than Sch 40 and that's why its used outdoors, which confuses me because the pipe seems to have a lot of give unlike Sch 40.

My concern is that the pipe will eventually be covered by a patio. I need the strongest pipe under this, is that green stuff going to hold up?

speedball1
Jul 22, 2009, 05:59 AM
I don't have any experience with "Green PVC" but from what I can read up it's more of a environmental issue then one of strength. I would go with Schedule #40 throughout. Good luck, Tom

adkhkr
Jul 22, 2009, 10:58 AM
Here is the code for the outside pipe:

The sewer line from the building cast-iron pipe to the septic tank and to the leaching pool(s) shall meet or exceed commercial standards class 2400 sewer pipe, or ASTM standards for plastic sewer pipe with a minimum SDR 35 rating.

Does Sch 40 meet this requirement?

The code also says "There shall be a lenght of cast-iron sewer line extending through the foundation to a point a minimum of two feet beyond the foundation wall.

It says "through" the foundation wall. No mention about going under the foundation wall.

speedball1
Jul 22, 2009, 11:19 AM
We have never had a problem with schedule #40 PVc meeting ASTM Standards.
I read, "through the foundation " to read just that. I would check with your Building Department to be sure but forcing you to sleeve or convert to cast iron when you're not going "through" anything doesn't make much sense. But then again I've run into bunches of codes I consider senseless. Regards, Tom

adkhkr
Aug 2, 2009, 01:39 PM
So I have installed the PVC under the footing and connected the main house trap that I built with PVC fittings. My next question is what type of fitting the main fresh air inlet should be?

I was going to use a 4" sanitary Tee and run it up and out.

Thanks.

Brad

speedball1
Aug 2, 2009, 02:33 PM
So I have installed the PVC under the footing and connected the main house trap that I built with PVC fittings. My next question is what type of fitting the main fresh air inlet should be?

I was going to use a 4" sanitary Tee and run it up and out.

Thanks.

Brad

Hey Brad,
What do you mean by "main fresh air inlet" Do you mean to vent the sewer line or the septic tank?" Is this called for in your local ordinance as well as the running trap? Let me know, Tom

adkhkr
Aug 2, 2009, 02:44 PM
Here is a picture of what is required...

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/septic.jpg

speedball1
Aug 2, 2009, 02:52 PM
Where do you live?

adkhkr
Aug 2, 2009, 02:53 PM
New York

speedball1
Aug 2, 2009, 03:08 PM
I see. This is a vent for the running trap. Now it makes sense. Thanks, Tom

adkhkr
Aug 2, 2009, 03:28 PM
So would a sanitary Tee work for the vent?

speedball1
Aug 2, 2009, 03:52 PM
So would a sanitary Tee work for the vent?

Although they show a vent tee on its back,(see image) I can see no problem in using a sanitary tee in its place. Ton

adkhkr
Aug 3, 2009, 05:52 PM
Thanks Tom for the help. So now that I have the initial work done on the plumbing, I have to get started with the rough-in plumbing. Attached is a picture of the next phase of the project. After the fresh air inlet, I need to go 90 degrees in both directions. One side will be to a floor drain in the boiler room and the other side will be to the bathroom/kitchen.

Can I use a double Wye fitting to do this?

For the floor drain, do I put a trap under the slab?

Should I keep the floor drain 4" throughout?

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/PlumbingLayout.jpg

speedball1
Aug 4, 2009, 05:34 AM
Can I use a double Wye fitting to do this?
You could but I'd feel more comfortable with the floor drain on farther don the main.
That way the discharge from up stairs would flow past the floor drain instead of into it.

For the floor drain, do I put a trap under the slab?
Most floor drains have a built in trap.

Should I keep the floor drain 4" throughout?
For the most part floor drains are 2". 4" floor drains are used in commercial installations. More questions? I'm as close as a click. Tom

adkhkr
Aug 4, 2009, 06:00 AM
I am not sure if this changes anything but this plumbing will only be for the basement. I might also include upstairs laundry later on though. Everything else from upstairs is tied into the existing septic system.

As far as the location for the floor drain, I really can't change the location because the main drain entered the home under the footing in the boiler room and that's where I would like the drain. I thought by having the main trap/cleanouts in that location would be best because it would be accessible and not take up living space and having a floor drain in the boiler room would be nice to have.

Should I reconsider putting in a floor drain because its close to the end of the system where it exits the house?

speedball1
Aug 4, 2009, 06:17 AM
I wasn't asking you to move the floor drain very far. I was thinking of the velocity of the discharge coming down from above. I was thinking that if the floor drain wasn't connected in line with the discharge from above that it would be better coming off a 4 X 2" combo or wye on the main. That way the upstairs discharge would be slowed down and draining past the floor drain instead of into it.

Should I reconsider putting in a floor drain because its close to the end of the system where it exits the house? You're going to be thankful for that floor drain if you have any spills. I'd keep it in my plans. Can you understand my concern about its present location? Regards, Tom

adkhkr
Aug 4, 2009, 07:37 AM
I'm a little confused... should I come off the main with a 4x2 Wye to the floor drain -than- 4x4 wye to the bathroom/kitchen -than- sanitary tee up for the upstairs laundry.

Should I not use a Double wye? The only reason I wanted to was because it would reduce the amount of excavation/slab breaking.

speedball1
Aug 4, 2009, 07:43 AM
I was thinking of connecting the upstairs to the main with a long sweep or two 45's and a little farther down the line pick the floor drain up with a 4 X 2" combo or wye.
Do you understand my concerns about discharging almost directly into the floor drain? Regards, tom

adkhkr
Aug 4, 2009, 10:30 AM
OK, I think I'm understanding it now. I made a new sketch of the layout. How is this?

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/PLBG.jpg

massplumber2008
Aug 4, 2009, 05:24 PM
Funny, Tom.. without looking at your answer I drew up the same thing you recommended by revising his drawing! How's that for cool... ;)

Adkhkr... check out the drawing below. We want you to use a long sweep elbow (use 2 - 4" street 45s to make a long sweep 90) to turn the corner for the bathroom. Here, if left as double wye with a cap on the end when/if you need to snake the drain in the future from the house side of the house trap you would run into the cap...not up the bathroom drain line. That make sense?? With the long sweep 90 the main line can be cleaned with no difficulty.

Let us know...

MARK

PS: I also noted that you need to change the 4"x2" sanitary tee you had on its back for the upstairs laundry as sanitary tee fittings aren't allowed to be used in this manner. Replace with a 4"x2" wye and street 45 looking straight up. Add a 2" cleanout as soon as you come out of the concrete.

adkhkr
Aug 4, 2009, 06:00 PM
Wow, thanks for the great advice. I might actually be able to do this by myself with the help from you guys.

For the cleanout, is this what you are talking about? This would be in the vertical position like the picture and set just above the concrete floor.

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/251885_300jpg.png

What do I look for in a floor drain? Is it basically a shower drain?

Here is an updated schematic... I bought the fittings and I don't have enough room for the drain to come off the first street 45 so I need to put double street 45s to bring it back into the boiler room. Is this a problem? It should only be water going down there so I think it should be OK.

Also, is it a problem running the 45s outside like that to the septic system? Is it too many turns/should I add a cleanout?

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/PLBG-1.jpg

Thanks.

massplumber2008
Aug 5, 2009, 04:39 PM
The cleanout tee is exactly what I was talking about and it should be installed on the vertical just as it comes out of the ground.

The floor drain can be a PTRAP and a strainer assembly, or you could try to find a complete floor drain as pictured below.

Be clear that the floor drain will have a tendency to DRY out and if it will remain unused most of the time it will probably be a good idea to pour a little cooking oil (or similar non evaporating fluid) into the trap to keep it from evaporating and letting sewer gasses into the home.

FInally, the schematic looks perfect... ;) No need to change anything!

MARK

adkhkr
Sep 1, 2009, 05:31 PM
OK... so I'm still moving on the project and I got everything done in the picture with one problem. When I connected the 2 45's making the right hand turn I made the angle a little too steep. When I tried to connect the 10' length of pipe, the pitch was 3/8" per foot. I tried using a 22 degree elbow but that was too much angle and I didn't have enough pitch. I tried to find an 11 degree elbow but can't find it anywhere.

Would an 11 degree elbow bring an 3/8" per foot to 1/8" per foot?

If this does not work, how else can I fix the problem?

Thanks.

massplumber2008
Sep 2, 2009, 03:57 AM
You can either cut the 45s and start again OR you can probably just leave the 3/8" per foot in this case. If you need to run the pipe out farther then you can gradually decrease that 3/8" back to 1/4" over the longer run... ;)

An 11.25 fitting is not easily found... only made by 1 manufacturer that I know of and it is really a pressure rated fitting... not for drainiage!

MARK

speedball1
Sep 2, 2009, 04:32 AM
That 10' length of pipe comes down from upstairs correct? If so you should have enough velocity so the 3/8ths fall shouldn't be a problem. Follow Marks advice and you'll be just fine. Also you can save yourself a fitting by using a 4 X 2" combination, (Combo) in place of a 4 X 2" wye and a 2" street 45. Good luck, Tom

adkhkr
Sep 5, 2009, 04:58 AM
Speedball... to clarify this is where the problem is. There is nothing from upstairs coming into the pipe at this point.

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/PLBG-1rev.jpg

speedball1
Sep 5, 2009, 05:44 AM
The extra 1/8th" of slope on that ten foot piece is what concerns you? Is the bath and kitchen located in the basement? In any event, I think your fears are groundless.
Good luck, Tom

adkhkr
Sep 5, 2009, 06:26 AM
Yes... the bathroom and kitchen are in the basement. Well if they are groundless than I'm glad to hear it. I will get this section of pipe in, backfill, fill in the concrete and than work on the layout of the bathroom and kitchen. Hopefully my next post will be with plumbing layout questions for the bathroom and kitchen.

Thanks for getting me this far.


I was going to patch the concrete in the trenches that are done. Should I put a cardboard sleeve around the PVC coming up so the concrete doesn't touch the PVC? I thought I read that somewhere, not sure. Thanks.

speedball1
Sep 6, 2009, 09:29 AM
Should I put a cardboard sleeve around the PVC coming up so the concrete doesn't touch the PVC? We use Armoflex (see image) to insulate our pipes coming through the slab. Good luck, Tom

adkhkr
Sep 6, 2009, 09:37 AM
So do you piece it together so it covers around the whole pipe?

Just so you understand what I am talking about, I want to wrap the 4" and 2" pipes.

I am moving along with the plumbing. The pitch was fine, after I connected the length of 4" pipe it turned out to be 3/8" per foot. Below is a picture of the rest of the job. How does it look?

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/BsmtPlbg.jpg

massplumber2008
Sep 8, 2009, 02:21 PM
I'd make a few changes to this... have you installed this yet? Let me know... if not, I'll post a new drawing up and show how I would do it... O.K.? Let me know...


PS: Cardboard will be fine around the PVC coming out of the ground... ;)

MARK

adkhkr
Sep 8, 2009, 03:40 PM
Mark -

I have only installed one 10' piece of 4" PVC just past the 2-Street 45s. I haven't done anything in the bathroom or kitchen. Any help would be great.

massplumber2008
Sep 8, 2009, 05:21 PM
Hey hey...

Need to end the run in a 4" elbow into a 4" cleanout... run a 4"x2" wye to pick up the kitchen sink.

In terms of the bathroom you want end on the toilet with a 4" elbow and use a 4" elbow and use a 4" wye (rolled above center line) to wet vent both the toilet and the shower using the vent for the sink. You will need to increase the vent to 2" as directed in the drawing below.

A 2" wye (rolled above center line) to wet vent both the toilet and the shower using the vent for the sink. You will need to increase the vent to 2" dandy clenaout are required as below, etc.

Let me know if all this makes sense...

MARK

adkhkr
Sep 12, 2009, 11:15 AM
Mark... the layout I had isn't going to work because my measurements were incorrect. Measure twice, cut once right. Sorry you made the layout for nothing, my apologies.

Anyway... unfortunately my measurements were on the long side so I had to rearrange the bathroom. Do you think this layout is acceptable? I realize its tight, but I can't change the dimensions. And I really didn't want to go with a smaller shower than a 40" corner unit. Also, I will be using a pocket door.

Here is a revised pic of the bathroom.

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/BsmtBath.jpg

massplumber2008
Sep 12, 2009, 04:30 PM
No problem on the measure error... I've gotten pretty quick at drawing these up... ;)

I don't blame you on the 40" minimum shower....you won't regret that, but it is a tight space, for sure! The toilet is tight, but it fits within the 30" minimum toilet space required by code.

I've attached a new layout... let me know if it makes sense. Review post #45 to be clear on additional information.

MARK

PS: You are installing a properly ventilated fan at bathroom... yes?


.

adkhkr
Sep 13, 2009, 06:31 PM
When you say to roll the 4x2 wye above center, is this what you mean?

http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/adkhkr/Drain.jpg


I have to say, I can't wait until I don't have to break up anymore concrete:)

massplumber2008
Sep 14, 2009, 04:36 AM
Exactly what I mean...

adkhkr
Sep 19, 2009, 01:10 PM
I have all the concrete trenches done, but now I am confused about how to get the 2" shower pipe to come up in the exact spot where the shower drain is. I bought the shower pan, an americh 38x38 corner neo angle. I know where it should be... but I am just worried that when I concrete over the trenches/pipes, and something shifts I am screwed. Is there a trick to this. I read in another post about a DAPOUT box, should I do this?. This morning I made a template out of plywood with the hole in the correct spot. I think that is going to take any error out of the final location.

This is the drain that came with it... if you click on the link it is in the shower base manual section.

Downloads | Manuals (http://americh.com/site/index.php?option=com_docman&task=cat_view&gid=19&Itemid=12)

Should I get another drain that is easier to work with, if there is such a thing? This utilizes a neoprene ring that expand against the pvc pipe as a seal.

Where the toilet comes up... do I use a regular 4" 90 degree elbow with the 4" PVC coming up through the concrete? Then I would flush cut the PVC with the top of the concrete when its cured.

massplumber2008
Sep 20, 2009, 08:07 AM
The link didn't work Adkhkr... but the neoprene sleeve type is the easist to work with.

In terms of the dapout box... yup! That's the trick with showers... ;)

A plumber would rough in the ptrap and stub up a riser about 6 inches above the floor, and then install the dapout box, cover with dirt, pin it tight with stakes and then add concrete to the surrounding floor. When the concrete dried, the stakes and dapout box are removed and the dirt is cleared away to about 4 inches below the floor. Then the shower pan is DRY FIT (just placed over the stubbed up pipe) and lkeveled in all directions to see how the rough in went. If all is OK, the plumber proceeds to install the strainer assembly, install a structolite (or mortar) base and then sets the shower pan and levels from side to side and from front to back (use shims as needed to keeep pan where it is wanted).

You can try to do it as a plumber... OR, you may want to DRY FIT the ptrap and riser, making sure you like the rough in and then remove it all back to the horizontal pipe and just cap it for now. Place the dapout where it will work nicely for the drain and then fill the dapout with dirt and stake it off and then add concrete to trench and let all dry, etc.

Then, pull the dapout box, remove all the dirt, and start cementing the ptrap and riser up and into place. Check the fit with the pan leveled as mentioned above as you go and you should be able to get a good rough in without too much trouble.

After the drain is roughed in correctly, you will fill the dapout hole to within 2 inches of the concrete floor and you will install the shower strainer and once again, DRY FIT the base and level to be sure all is good! Once all is confirmed good you will want to install a base or structolite or mortar and set the shower pan level from front to back and from side to side.. again, shimming overnight or so to be sure the base doesn't move even a little bit!

Be clear that an 1/8" off on the base will translate to 3/4" off on the shower doors (6ft vertical x 1/8" off horizontal = 3/4" out of plumb on door). There is some adjustability in neo angle doors, but not a full 3/4"... usually! My point is simply that you need to be sure the shower base gets set perfectly... ;)

Let me know if you need more...

MARK

adkhkr
Sep 20, 2009, 09:48 AM
Thanks. Two additional questions:

1) Coming up for the toilet, should I use a standard 4" 90 degree elbow and glue a piece of 4" PVC so it sticks out of what will be the top of the slab?

2) On the 4"x2" Wye that is turned up, does the 2" section that comes out have to be completely vertical as in the previous picture? The problem is that I will be getting too close to the slab. I can really only turn the WYE slightly. How much turn do you have to have?

massplumber2008
Sep 20, 2009, 11:47 AM
1) Use a regular 4" 90 and DRY FIT the stub up for now. Later, when all is tiled you can put the flange on the tile and measure the piece you need to join the flange to the elbow. Then you can prime/cement the flange/pipe into the elbow easily! When tiling, be sure to leave enough room around the dry fit stubbed up pipe so that it acommodates the new closet flange, but not so much room that you can't screw the flange down through the tile.

2) As long as the wye rolls above the centerline of the drain pipe it will work for me at any angle.

MARK

adkhkr
Sep 21, 2009, 05:59 AM
For the length of 4" pipe that connects to the toilet, I had to stake it into position because the natural position was shifted a bit from where I wanted it.

I didn't force it to the point where it was going to snap at the joint, but I did need push it a bit and stake it in to prevent it going back.

Obviously you aren't here, but can PVC, such as in this case be pushed into place and not have to worry about having a joint fail in the future?

speedball1
Sep 21, 2009, 06:03 AM
PVC joints are welded and not glued. If you primed and cemented the joint correctly and didn't put too much strain on the fittings you should be just fine Good luck, Tom

adkhkr
Sep 21, 2009, 06:19 PM
Down to my last couple of fittings under the slab and I ran into a bit of a problem. One of the fittings doesn't want to weld. After I weld it, with a little bit of force it pulls apart. I tried cleaning it with primer and glueing it again but it doesn't want to take like a normal piece. If I twist it, its strong but any vertical force and it pulled out.

I thought I would be done tonight and I run into this. I really don't want to have to put a new piece in because it's the wye going to the shower and I would have to dismantle the pieces going to the sink. Any ideas or am I just losing it?

massplumber2008
Sep 21, 2009, 07:39 PM
Hey hey...

When this pops up you want to do exactly what you did... reprime and recement, but then you need to hold it tight... and I mean tight!

Takes a few minutes longer and you may need to strain a bit beyond normal, but on occasion you run into that certain fit/joint that just wants to pull apart. You need to stop it from doing so, up to a minute or more. Then it will weld to the point that you can let go. It could slide out again, so want to check it for first 4-5 minutes... and be sure you are NOT the first person this has happened too... ;)

If you reprime, recement and hold, the joint will take.

Any more questions, let us know...

MARK

adkhkr
Jul 13, 2010, 12:15 PM
Its been awhile, but I am finally looking to finish this project up. I am going to run the vent pipe to an existing vent... see attached. My question is... is it OK to run an existing vent pipe with 3 90s and a horizontal length of approximately 30'.

Can the vents be connected the way I have shown?

Thanks.

massplumber2008
Jul 13, 2010, 01:38 PM
Hi Adkhkr... been awhile... ;)

You can use the 90s, but most codes allow only 1/3 of a vents overall developed length to be run horizontal.

For example, on a vent with an overall developed length of 60 feet, only 20 feet of that run would be allowed to be horizontal. Here, if the horizontal run exceeds 1/3 of the developed length, say 45 feet in our example, then you must increase the pipe size of the entire vent by one pipe size.

What is the overall developed length of the vent from the basement floor to the roof? Let me know... OK?

Mark

adkhkr
Jul 14, 2010, 03:16 AM
Looks like I might have a problem with this... the overall developed length would be approximately 50', with 30' being horizontal.

Could I get away with installing an air admittance valve as the vent?

massplumber2008
Jul 14, 2010, 03:22 AM
I would suggest that you simply increase the size of the vent to 2.5" if you can find it. If not, 3" pipe on the horizontal will work just fine as well. Be sure to pitch the vent at about 1/4" to the foot back toward the drain.

Finally, you could combine the vents and use a 2" AAV... if they are allowed in your area! The AAV must be "readily accessible" for change out in the future should the AAV fail.

Mark

adkhkr
Jul 14, 2010, 03:56 AM
Are you better off going with a regular vent? Should AAVs be avoided if possible? This horizontal vent pipe will be installed in a 2x4 wall so the smaller the pipe the better. Will a 2.5" pipe fit in a 2x4 OK?

I suppose I could go straight up and put in another vent through the roof for these fixtures only. I am going to be opening up the wall on the first floor for a window anyway.

massplumber2008
Jul 14, 2010, 09:27 AM
Regular vents are always best... no mechanical parts to fail!

If you can even find 2.5" pipe/fittings then a 2.5" pipe would just barely fit inside a 2"x4" wall and wouldn't leave much wood behind.

Most likely you'll need to pipe this up 3" and in that case fir the studs out 1.5" using 1.5" studs or maybe that vent straight up and through the roof will put this all to rest for you... :)

Back to you...


Mark

adkhkr
Jul 17, 2010, 07:02 AM
Going the route of a regular vent through the roof. Should I use 2" PVC for the whole vent, including through the roof?

massplumber2008
Jul 17, 2010, 07:12 AM
2" all the way and through the roof 18"-24" if you have snowy winters or 6"-12" through the roof if you are from sunny areas like Florida or California... ;)

Mark

speedball1
Jul 17, 2010, 07:14 AM
I was thinking of putting the PVC under the footing in a cast iron/steel sleeve, what do you think about this? I can't see how this method could be rejected because its seems like a good solution, at least to me.
NOT NECESSARY!
Most of the big box guys aren't plumbers. Yours was assuming you were going THROUGH the foundation. But you're not are you? You're going UNDER it.
Run PVC all the way with no cast iron sleeve. Good luck, Tom

adkhkr
Jul 18, 2010, 09:10 AM
When I run the 2" vent pipe, is it OK to use the short radius 90s? Is there a limit to how many 90s I can use when installing the vent pipe?

There are a few tight 90s I need to install to get it up the wall.

massplumber2008
Jul 18, 2010, 09:37 AM
Use 2" regular 90s where needed.

In terms of limiting the number of elbows you are definitely looking to use the fewest elbows possible.

If needed, they also sell short pattern vent 90s... ;)

Mark

adkhkr
Jul 18, 2010, 09:54 AM
Here is a quick and dirty sketch of what I am intending on doing... does this look good or would you vent it differently?

The arrow indicates where it will penetrate the floor and go into the 1st floor wall. The pipe in the wall can be arranged any way.

massplumber2008
Jul 18, 2010, 10:38 AM
Here's how I'd do it... ;)

As always, pitch the vent as previously mentioned and connect the horizontal vents together at 42-48" off finish floor.

Mark