One of the 3-inch stack pipes on my roof needs repair. The rubber shoe (perhaps the wrong terminology) has partially broken away exposing what appears to be the top of the connecting sewer pipe. It is obvious that I will incur a leak with the next rain. I need to replace the shoe (I will be purchasing that) but I do not know what has to be done with the existing flashing (it appears to be sealed but I wonder if I should remove caulking on it and replace with new caulking) and what is needed to insure that the new shoe is water tight.
Raygardener

So it's a roofing problem and not a plumbing issue. That shoe is frequently called a roof jack and can be rubber, aluminim, lead, etc... Here is a start for your reading, the flashing is part of the boot.

Hello Raygardener,

I am attaching the link below am not sure if it will help you or not, but Bob (Ballenger1) will give the correct advice, Thanks.

John

http://www.hartandcooley.com/specialgasvent/PDF/851382%20Model%20SW%20Roof%20Jack%20Assembly%20Ins tallation%20Instructions.pdf

So its a roofing problem and not a plumbing issue. That shoe is frequently called a roof jack and can be rubber, aluminim, lead, etc... Here is a start for your reading, the flashing is part of the boot.

Answer gave me some very good information... at least I can refer to it by the proper name when I buy the materials and the information about the flashing as part of the boot was something I did not know.
Thanks.
Raygardener

Purchase a 3" roof boot, (see image and a small can of roofing cement. Remove the old roof boot. Run a ring of roof cement around the bottom of the flashing, slip the boot over the vent pipe band under the shingles as shown in the image and nait it down with roofing nails. Good luck, Tom

Speedball:

I don't like that picture at all. Not one bit. It shows nails on the exposed end of the flashing. Stupid if you ask me.

The nails should be under the shingles. It is important that on the downward slope it is exposed like in the picture.

If shingles have to be removed and re-installed, not a trivial task, you need to seal any nail holes preferably with an layer of roofing paper glued to the existing paper and seal any holes in the shingles. Specail adhesives are made for this.

Kiss,
As a rule the flashing will go down before the shingles so the nails will be under the tar paper and shingles. This is not possible with a replacement roof boot hence the roofing cement on the under side of the flashing. Regards, Tom

Speedball:

That wasn't my concern at all.

It's the two frontmost nails on the exposed Flashing, I do not believe they are not needed at all and can be a source for leaks.

The nail on the left rear can easily be placed under the shingle.

This disagrees with both of us:

Installing Instructions - Plumbing Vent Pipe Flange/Flashing Install for Roofs (http://fjmooremfg.com/install.html)

Two nails in the back under the shingles should be all that's needed) and a single bead of roofing adhesive under the back shingle. That just continues the bead that is in place under the shingles.

Flashing installed after shingles are in place. (which I agree with)

I don't even agree with all the goop in you're the picture.

If anything a bead of cement under the back shingles to the top of the flashing.

Think about it, water will roll off the shingle and onto the flashing and continue down the roof. The boot protects the pipe.

Two nails keeps the flashing from moving.

I've never know water to flow up hill.

Where is hk when you need him?

Purchase a 3" roof boot, (see image and a small can of roofing cement. Remove the old roof boot. run a ring of roof cement around the bottom of the flashing, slip the boot over the vent pipe band under the shingles as shown in the image and nait it down with roofing nails. Good luck, Tom

The information was very helpful. I understand the concern of the person who responded to Speedball... and Speedball's response. All of it enlightened me. This is my first use of ASK ME and I am impressed!


Kiss,
As a rule the flashing will go down before the shingles so the nails will be under the tar paper and shingles. This is not possible with a replacement roof boot hence the roofing cement on the under side of the flashing. Regards, Tom

Appreciate your advice. This network works!
Ray Gardener

You guys prompted me to go up on the roof and look and even take some pictures. Nails are under the shingles. Boot/flashing seems to be installed on top of the shingles.

In one case, the flashing is shown "exposed" like Tom's pic without the nails and in the other 3 cases, it isn't. In the three that are not exposed, the shingle that would be in front using Tom's post as an example is loose, so that water would run under the shingle or run in the gap of the shingle.

No goop. One bead would be useful under the shingle selectively applied in the same general location of the shingle seal.

FWIW:

I did a year or so ago remove a couple of courses of shingles to replace the sheathing at the edge of the roof of a porch. These shingles were installed using the two layer technique, so I was able to remove a layer entirely and replace with a starter strip. Shingles were patched with fiberglass and re-installed and re-glued. All the products necessary were available at Lowe's in the roofing section.

The paper I salvaged because I replaced the edge with Ice and Water shield. The tar paper was patched to with glued pieces of scrap paper.

It's a real pain to remove shingles in the middle of the roof, but it can be done. The glued strip is best de-bonded when the shingles are cold. Nailing the middle course was done with a piece of plywood under the shingle and a 2 x 4 on top struck with a hammer.

While I was at it, I installed a drip edge.



I'll try to post some pics.