So I am remodeling my kitchen and I just bought a new Kenmore gas stove. Went to hook up the gas line and the line from the new stove is bigger than the hard line I need to hook it to. Looks like the old gas line may have been 3/4 and the new is an 1in. Neither Lowe's or home depot sell an adapter fitting. Does anyone know a good website where I can buy this part? All help is greatly appreciated. I'd like to be using my new stove. Thanks!

Nate

I am assuming I need a reducer?

No one?

Before we go any further, pipe is goofy.

See Steel Pipes Dimensions - ANSI Schedule 40 (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ansi-steel-pipes-d_305.html)

for schedule 40 pipe.

First determine the OD of the pipe. If you don't have a caliper use a piece of post-it tape and measure the circumference. C=3.14*D, so you can find D.

Can we assume that both threads are tapered?

Next, this adapter needs to be what?

Female or male at each end?

Use the measured dimensions and the table to come up with pipe size.

Back to you.

Female end is the smaller diameter(house line) and male end is the bigger diameter (stove end) I'll have to try and figure out the sizes. Shouldn't the stove size be standard though? I think the male end is a compression fitting. Thank you

Some of the newer gas stoves require more gas to operate. It is possible the line that serviced your last stove will be to small to provide the proper gas flow. In that case you will have to upsize the line from the main in the home to the stove. You can always hook it up and see what it does with all the burners and oven on. If it works fine that is good and if it does not then you will have to upsize the gas line.

Thanks for the tip. I need that darn reducer before I can do anythign :(

What you are looking for is a bell reducer. Some company in your area will have one. Home Depot,Lowe's,hardware stores sholud have them. It is a black iron fitting that is quite common.


http://www.plumbingsupply.com/blackfittings.html

http://www.ccallis.com/black_iron_fittings.htm

I need a female connection on one end and a male connection on the other. All I can find is two female ends

OK, what os the size of the male end and what is the size of the female end?

OK, what os the size of the male end and what is the size of the female end?

That I'm not sure of. I'll have to take a picture or try to figure it out. Neither Lowe's or home depot have anything close to the right part. Maybe a hardware store like Ace?

You can always use a close nipple to convert a different size female to female coupling.

The gas fitting could be compression and not a pipe thread. Compression males have a domed smooth section.

i need a female connection on one end and a male connection on the other. all i can find is two female ends

All you have to do is buy a pipe nipple to screw into the side you need a male thread on. NO problemhttps://www.askmehelpdesk.com/images/misc/progress.gif

All you need to do is buy a pipe nipple the size of the male end you need and screw it into the fitting to make a male female combo fitting. Make sure you use pipe dope on all threads.

Show us a picture of both the house piping and the connection to the stove.

I'll get a picture for you. Over the weekend I was able to figure out the house pipe thread is 1/2fip and the compression fitting I need to have to adapt it to the stove line I THINK is 3/4. I tried a 5/8 and it was a tad to small but it was the biggest Home Depot had. I'm a little confused about the pipe nipple thing. Can anyone draw me a diagram or something?

These are typical gas fittings. Flare is used for gas. Compression for plumbing. Gas Flare Fitting, 1/2" OD x 1/2" FIP # 90-2032R by Dormont (http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52-296-gas-connector-fittings/gas-flare-fitting-458851.aspx)

The flare fittings are used for flexible gas lines.

Here are some pictures o nipples:

Black Pipe Nipple - BIC Warehouse (http://www.bicwarehouse.com/black-pipe-nipple-20606.html)

The one that's all threaded is a "close nipple". You either destroy it getting it out or use a nipple wrench or internal pipe wrench.

This may help a bit:

Gas Connectors (http://www.brasscraft.com/Products.aspx?Id=211)

The workers at Lowe's and home depot didn't know what to tell me. I took both pieces and showed them what I was trying to connect and I couldn't get anywhere. I guess I'll have to call someone to come out and fix the darn thing. I've read the posts, tried looking up the parts and I just can't figure it out. I feel so stupid

OK, take a picture with a ruler or coin in the picture for a size reference. Use "Go advanced/Manage attachments" to post on AMHD.

Ok guys, I got the part I needeed and hooked it all up.. . BUT now I have a new problem.

I have a gas leak I can not seam to fix. When I first hooked it up I could smell gas after a few seconds so I sprayed some soapy water and saw one place where it was bubbling. I took it apart and applied more pipe dope tape around the thread and tightened it back up as tight as I could get it. Now I do not smell gas anymore but when I spray it with soapy water I see super tiny bubbles, about the size of a needle point coming out of one area. I took it apart again redid the tape dope and applied even more but I STILL have the tiny bubbles in one little area but there is NO gas smell. Any suggestions?

You have a bad fitting OR the fitting is being used improperly.

I went to a plumbing specialty store and the fitting they gave me is 1/2 female on both ends. Also both ends of the piece are pipe threaded. Now the male end on the piece at the shutoff is compression and the male end on the stove gas line is pipe. The leak is coming from where the pipe thread (on the piece I just bought) is screwed onto the male compression part. Do they make a 1/2 coupler that one end is a female pipe thread and the other is a female compression? Hope I am making sense

Take the pieces you have to the plumbing speciality store where you bought them and show them how you are putting them together. They can see what you have and what you are doing with them and they can figure out what is wrong.

Compression fittings are not used on gas lines. Gas piping uses flare fittings. Where is that picture you promised?Many places do not permit teflon tape on gas lines, use pipe dope.

I took the pieces to the store with me the first time and that's the part they gave me.

You are right, they are flare fittings, not compression. I am new to all this. Sorry about the pictures. I'll get them today. What I am using isn't normal teflon tape. It says its plumming "tape dope". Or is that the same? If it is I will have to buy some pipe dope.

http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff346/5spd07gt/gasfitting.jpg

Sorry the picture is sooo blurry.

The pipe fittings need to be TIGHT. At least 2 full turns after finger tight. I think the number is 2-1/2 turns.

Compression fittings (the top one) doesn't get pipe dope or tape,

Looks like it is a flare valve screwed into a black iron coupling. That is a NO NO. Better picture please so I can really tell.

It is a black iron couplling. What should I have?

Does the gas valve look like the TBVA? (Tube to Pipe - right angle) on page 23?

Example of a Flare/Tube fitting - http://mdmetric.com/serto/Image15.gif

A pipe fitting looks like: Google Images (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://qcfocus.com/files/Pipe%2520Thread%2520Taper.jpg&imgrefurl=http://qcfocus.com/construction-glossary-definition/taper-thread&usg=__2GNM_uh5g4XqChhxTx3pD0xR-NA=&h=765&w=1024&sz=71&hl=en&start=76&tbnid=NMm3nuJIae8J8M:&tbnh=112&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3DNPT%2Bpipe%2Bfitting%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp %3D20%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN%26start%3D60)

The other possibility is that the fitting on the valve is cross-threaded because it doesn't look straight.

A flare gas valve does not have tapered threads. Tapered threads are needed to use a black iron fitting. It will never seal properly if that is what you have.

Mine is flared I believe. Its not a straight cut, its sort of domed. What fiting do I need then? Guys I really do appreciate all the help and that you are being patient with me as I really don't know what I am talking about and learning as I go. Thanks again so much

Use the F - ID and the F - OD numbers to identify the two fittings needed. http://www.cristgroup.com/pdf/SS%20Fittings%20Brochure.pdf

Gas valve
Appliance

The other option is to replace the gas valve which actually might be easier.

Use the F - ID and the F - OD numbers to identify the two fittings needed. http://www.cristgroup.com/pdf/SS%20Fittings%20Brochure.pdf



Sorry but I don't understand. How much would a plumber charge to just come and fix the darn thing?

For instance, from the table:

a 1/2" flare male fitting has a Flare OD (F OD) of 0.550" and has a Flare ID (F ID) of 0.375"

If you measure the outside of the flare it should be about 35/64" of an inch or about 3/64 more than 1/2 an inch.

If you measure the diameter from the inner angles, you get 0.375 or 3/8" of an inch.

If you get these measurements, you have a 1/2" flare fitting.



For the 3/4 male flare fitting F - OD = .805 which is about 13/16".

0.625 is the F-ID which is 5/8 of an inch.

Also measure the OD of the pipe feeding the valve. To do that measure the circumference. Take a piece of paper and wrap it around the pipe and cut both layers at the same time with a razer blade. Measure the length of the piece of paper. The OD of the pipe is then (length of paper)/3.14

Looks to me like he has a close nipple in a 90 and the valve on the close nipple, then another close nipple and then the coupling. He can't tighten the close nipple in the 90.

If that is correct, get two 1 ½ or 2" nipples, another valve and some pipe dope.

You need enough room on the nipples to get your pipe wrench on it. You need a new valve because you probably stretched the brass of the one you have trying to screw it and the nipple together into the 90.
Dope and put the nipple into the 90, put the valve on the nipple. Put the other nipple and the coupling together and then put nipple in valve. Tighten but don't over tighten, the iron pipe will stretch the brass of the valve. Then put on flex gas line.

Of course, I'm all wet if the valve has male threads.

Why you going up with the flex line then down? Such a sharp bend is not good for the flex. If possible replace the horizontial pipe with shorted piece of pipe, put on gas valve then put on flex and let it turn down.

Looks to me like he has a close nipple in a 90 and the valve on the close nipple, then another close nipple and then the coupling. He can’t tighten the close nipple in the 90.

If that is correct, get two 1 ½ or 2" nipples, another valve and some pipe dope.

You need enough room on the nipples to get your pipe wrench on it. You need a new valve because you probably stretched the brass of the one you have trying to screw it and the nipple together into the 90.
Dope and put the nipple into the 90, put the valve on the nipple. Put the other nipple and the coupling together and then put nipple in valve. Tighten but don't over tighten, the iron pipe will stretch the brass of the valve. Then put on flex gas line.

Of course, I'm all wet if the valve has male threads.

Why you going up with the flex line then down? Such a sharp bend is not good for the flex. If possible replace the horizontial pipe with shorted piece of pipe, put on gas valve then put on flex and let it turn down.


Can you give me a link to the parts I need to buy? I am pretty sure you are right on the money

Just go to hardware store, Home Depot or Lowe's. Lowe's usually has more competent help. If you are really unsure of what you want, find some old guy.

A nipple is just a short piece of pipe. A coupling is just that thing you already bought. It is used to connect 2 pieces of pipe together.

Get black pipe, not galvanized. You don't use galvanized pipe for gas.

Measure that horizontal pipe. I'm guessing that it is screwed into a 90 elbow some where out of the picture. Get a shorter piece of pipe. It should be short enough so that you can add your valve, nipple, flex line adapter and still have 6-12 inches of flex line to th corner. It should be long enough that you flex line will connect to stove.

That pipe is probably 1/2" pipe. The diameter of pipe is the inside diameter.

If the gas valve you purchase has female threads you should only need the shorter pipe, the valve and a nipple. The coupling to connect the flex adapter you already have. Nipple should be, say 6" long. A close nipple is just a real short piece of pipe with threads on both ends and no unthreaded pipe in between. No place to put your pipe wrench. You are using pipe wrenches aren't you. Probably need two, they work in pairs, one to hold the pipe with, one to tighten with.

That piping looks like it is in the back of a cabinet. Can you post a wider-angle picture?

I'll use a better camera and get some better pictures tomorrow. (I am at work until 11pm tonite). The pipe is in the corner of a cabinet. The corner is cut out though so it fits around the pipe. The horizontal pipe is under the kitchen floor, then comes straight up to the shutoff valve etc. So your saying change out everything from the horizontal pipe up? Where would the shutoff for the gas be? The only one I know of is after the horizontal piping. I understand what parts you are talking about but still not 100% on how/where they should go. Thanks for your patience. I have been to Lowe's and Home Depot on several occasions and it was nothing but a waste of time. They were no help. My wife is close to just calling someone to come fix it. Paid $1000 for the darn stove over a month ago and still haven't used it. Good thing she don't cook too much

Yes, better pics. What I am concerned about is the sharp bend in the flex connecter. It currently appears to go up then bend 180 degrees and go down. Maybe its just the picture. I assumed the horizontal pipe was the incoming gas piping. Better pictures would help.

Hang in there we will get it all sorted out.

Thanks bud, I appreciate the help sooo much.

Sorry, no go on the pics today. I have been working long hours and just not had a chance. I am off tomorrow so I'll do my best to get them

OK, here are the pictures. I picked up a 90 and a straight 1/2in black pipe connector in case the one I have is galvanized. So, here you go...

http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff346/5spd07gt/DSC03419.jpg
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff346/5spd07gt/DSC03422.jpg

Pics didn't help?

Hmmm... still nothing

Sorry, I guess you got pushed off the bottom of the page, didn't see you post.

Looks like you are hooked up. Looks fine to me except I would prefer to see a more gentle bend in the flex line

Well the problem is I still have that small leak right at the shutoff valve. The first connection above it has a tiny leak I can not get to stop

Take that connection completely off and try to take a picture with both parts visible. Put a smal rubber band under the nut to hold the nut up. You can use a small stich and two rubber band to hold it slightly above the connector.

What's the purpose of the rubber bands?

Otherwise we won't be able to see then end of the connector. You can tape it up too

I really want to see what you have without second guessing.

The fitting going into the black iron coupling is a male flare fitting. The fitting going into the coupling has to be iron pipe size with tapered threads. That is the way I see it. The gas valve could be flare also.

I'll take it all apart again tomorrow and try to get some pics, hopefully that will clear something's up. Thanks guys