View Full Version : New well Tank won't fill up
fhgguy
Jun 22, 2009, 12:55 PM
I have a well that is specifically used to water the grass and garden. We bought the house just under a year ago and have never had good pressure from the 2 fixtures that we have hookked to the well. We do have water flow, but not enough pressure for the sprinkler to turn. The pump would never shut off so we turn off the power after every time we use it.
I tried pressurizing the old tank, it started to work for a while, but then started acting the same. When I checked it with a pressure gauge, it lost all of it's pressure. I was told the tak was bad. I went out and got a new tank ( 20 gal. same as the one before). I hooked up the new tank and it wouldn't fill with water. I still go the same flow as I did before ( very low).. I was told by the big box guys that I needed to replace the pressure switch, that that would solve the problem. I picked up a 30/50 pressure switch and installed it.
I have the tank pressurized at 28psi. The tank still doesn't want to fill up and my pressure is still low. It is running the same as it did before I changed everything out.
The pump run's I get flow, but it is low and the tank won't fill up.
After that I decided to see if the was an obstruction in the hose going from the Tee to the tank. There wasn't. In fact, when I ran the pump with out the tank attached, the pump filled up a 5 gallon pal in about 15 seconds.
When I pulled the line off the tank, I drained out about 6 cups of water out of it.
Also, when the tank is attached and the pump is running, I get a pressure readding just under 40 PSI.
Any sugestions, this is killing me :-))
jlisenbe
Jun 22, 2009, 02:08 PM
First for the good news. You are getting 20 gallons a minute which is really good. The switch is not the problem and probably never was. It sounds like your pump will pump up to 40# and then won't go any higher, meaning it would run all night like that if you didn't cut the breaker. So let's address two concerns.
1. Your new tank is rather small at only 20 gallons. I would have gone for something substantially bigger, more like 40 or 50 gallons. Still, a 20 gallon tank will work. Here's the deal. When you first begin using the tank, it has air above the bladder which you have pressurized, correctly, at 28#. But it also has air below the bladder. As you use your tank, in several weeks the air beneath the bladder will eventually dissolve into the water and the tank will fill up more to your liking.
2. Your problem really seems to center around the pump. As stated earlier, the pump is not able to get above 40# of pressure. Strangely, that seems to be a rather common complaint on this board. Is your pump above ground or in the well?
fhgguy
Jun 22, 2009, 03:23 PM
I believe I have a pump In the well as well as a Gould (vane) boost pump above ground. The Gould pump is 1/2 hp pump.
jlisenbe
Jun 22, 2009, 06:48 PM
I misread one part of your post. You are getting 20 gpm without the tank attached. You would not get that volume with the pump feeding into the tank under pressure.
I'm curious as to why you have booster pump. In addition, when the booster pump is engaged, do you have good pressure/volume then? Also, when the pump is pumping, is the booster pump on as well?
fhgguy
Jun 23, 2009, 10:48 AM
It seamed like the 5 gal bucket filled in 15 sec. I didn't put a watch to it, but it wasn't more than 1 minute. Closer to 30 sec than 60 sec's.
I'm assuming that the 1/2 hp motor is a boost pump, don't really have confirmation of that. Jus going by the way it is set up and diagrams I have seen. I have an access cap in the front yard and the 1/2 hp Gould pump is located in the basement with the tank and pressure switch.
The original problem wad the pump was that the pump wouldn't shut off and the tank wouldn't fill with water. I will try to get a measured out put of the pump. Us there anyway to determine if there is a submersed pump in the well?
jlisenbe
Jun 23, 2009, 11:33 AM
FH, does a wire go from the switch to the pump? If so, then you are looking at your pump, not a booster pump, which seems very likely. If that is the case, then tell us how many pipes are directly attached to the pump, two or three. See the attached pictures.
http://www.affordablewells.com/hjs.gif
http://www.affordablewells.com/hjd.gif
fhgguy
Jun 23, 2009, 11:56 AM
Wow!! You are really good:-)). I can't believe you found a picture. I have been searching far and wide. That is it and it has 2 pipes going to it.
It isn't wire though, it is copper tubbing that goes from the pressure switch to a 90 deg elbow attached to the pump.
So is this considered a jet pump type well then?
jlisenbe
Jun 24, 2009, 05:24 AM
Correct. The switch is wired to the pump directly in your case. The little copper tube allows the switch to sense water pressure.
When you say two pipes, we need to be clear on this. You are saying your pump matches the top picture or the bottom picture? If two pipes only, then one goes to the well and the other goes to the pressure tank.
The pictures are from this site. And no, I have no stock in that company. Take the "pumps" link on the left for more info.
Wisconsin Well (http://www.affordablewells.com)
fhgguy
Jun 24, 2009, 05:40 AM
The bottom picture would be a better representation of the pump.
I also has the copper line on it
fhgguy
Jun 24, 2009, 05:52 AM
2 lines come in from outside through the side of the basement wall and go into the 2 ports on the pump. There is a single Line out on the top of the pump that goes to a t that goes to the tank on one end and to the fixtures on the other
speedball1
Jun 24, 2009, 07:43 AM
I can't believe you found a picture. I have been searching far and wide. That is it and it has 2 pipes going to it.
And here's a few more.
fhgguy
Jun 24, 2009, 07:50 AM
So, now that we have identified the system, how do I get my tank to fill with water and increase the pressure enough to turn my sprinkler?
jlisenbe
Jun 24, 2009, 11:11 AM
Your basic problem is that the pump will not pump over 40#. I don't think you need to worry about the tank. As I stated earlier, that problem will fix itself over time. There are several possible reasons for why the pump will not pump up to pressure. You might just want to do yourself a favor and call in a well guy. Having the pump above ground is a plus in this case so far as troubleshooting goes.
speedball1
Jun 24, 2009, 11:37 AM
I'm looking for a answer to, " When the pump gets up tp 40 PSI can yo shut the pump off and still hold pressure?"
You're too concerned about the bladder tank not filling with water. This is normal for as new tank. As explained in a earlier post, (did you miss it?) The air cushion beneath the membrane will gradually be replaced by water. Answer my question, does the pressure bleed off when you shut the pump off? Regards, tom
fhgguy
Jun 24, 2009, 01:35 PM
Yes it drop back down to28 psi when I turn the pump off
It will hold at 28 psi
speedball1
Jun 24, 2009, 03:48 PM
Then the check valve's not holding pressure. Replace it and get back to us with the results. Good luck, Tom
mygirlsdad77
Jun 24, 2009, 03:54 PM
Jet assembly can be a pain.
fhgguy
Jun 24, 2009, 05:51 PM
Were would the check valve be on a system like this?
mygirlsdad77
Jun 24, 2009, 06:07 PM
In this case, it's a foot vavle(same as a check), its located at the very bottom of the jet assembly in the bottom of the well.
fhgguy
Jun 24, 2009, 06:49 PM
Would replacing the foot valve increase the pressure or is this a pump problem?
mygirlsdad77
Jun 24, 2009, 06:57 PM
Replacing foot valve will not increase pressure, it will only hold pressure steady while pump is off and all fixtures are closed. The reason I say jet assemblys can be a pain, is because they have jets in them that can clogg, or wear out(not often) and when this happens, its hard to tell for sure if it's a pump problem or a jet problem. Jet assemblys must be sized exactly to pump, so if you replace the pump, you have to replace the jet assembly, unless you get the same spec pump that you had, and then if it doesn't work you have to pull jet assembly anyway and fix or replace it. I may be talking a little out my arse, because I've only worked on these things a few times, but I had a fight with them every time. Hope someone else can give you some better advice. If not, I would look into replacing the whole works.
speedball1
Jun 24, 2009, 07:54 PM
If you think a foot valve's at fault you can install a check valve on the suction line that's on the surface. Let me know what you think, Tom
fhgguy
Jun 25, 2009, 06:34 AM
I'm assuming that would be installed before the pump or can it be installed after
speedball1
Jun 25, 2009, 06:46 AM
I'm assuming that would be installed before the pump or can it be installed after
As I stated, The check valve must be installed ahead of the pump on the suction line(see image). This will replace a open foot valve. Good luck, Tom
fhgguy
Jun 25, 2009, 06:53 AM
Thanks Tom, the picture was great