Yesterday, out of the blue, my Civic would not start. It was cranking fine, but that's it. I tried jumping it, and eventually it did start, but I didn't think that the battery was the problem. It ran fine all day, and then when I went to start it again this morning, it would not start again. I figured I'd try jumping it again, but today that didn't help. I check the "check engine light" and it is turning off after a couple of seconds when I turn the ignition. I am definitely a beginner at fixing cars, so I need some detailed advice. Thanks!

Replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil will likely fix the problem:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

Is this something that you would recommend trying without much experience? Also, just so that I can explain it to my husband better, from what I said, what made you think that was the problem? By the way, it's nice that you didn't need much more info (since this is beyond my pay grade, lol).

ICMs and coils are the two most problematic components on Hondas of this generation. They are responsible for most of these cars suddenly dying or not starting, provided the engine cranks and the Check Engine Light comes on and goes out after two seconds, the fuel pump runs, and the main relay clicks. When the CEL comes on and goes out normally, it tells a lot about the car. It says the ECM (computer), MAP Sensor, and several other important sensors are fine. After that, starting problems are usually distributor-related. The ICM (electronic points) and coil reside in the distributor. They tend to get thrashed, over time, by heat and electron migration. The ICM has a microchip inside that is the focus of much trouble on these cars.

I don't think replacing these two items is too difficult, if you take it slow and follow my directions. Come back and ask any questions, if needed. If the problem persists, after replacing the ICM and coil, the distributor housing normally needs to be replaced (genuine Honda only). The CKP, TDC, and CYL sensors go and the engine won't start. In this situation, remove the new ICM and coil from the old distributor housing and install them in the new one. Following this approach, you don't waste any money.

Ensure the spark plugs (NGK only) have been changed in the last 24,000 miles or 24 months. While you have the distributor cap off, I would also replace the rotor. It's very important to ensure the integrity of the basic ignition system on these cars--they can only take so much neglect.

Thank you so much for your help! I'm going to pass the buck to hubby when he gets home, so if I have more questions, I'll probably ask sometime over the weekend if you're around.

Great.

By the way, do you recommend checking for a spark or doing anything else first? I just talked to the guy at Autozone and it's going to be about $155 for those two parts. I don't want to end up with the wrong parts, if possible.

It's always a good idea to check for spark. However, it has limitations. You can have great spark but if it's not firing when the ECM wants it to, which the ICM is supposed to do, the engine won't start or it will die. Replacing ICMs and coils are "bread and butter" items for most Honda dealers. They probably replace these items on 3 or more vehicles a day.

And I just checked with the previous owner of the vehicle. He said that, to his knowledge, they have never been replaced.

So if the ICM is the problem, it wouldn't just outright die? It could do what it did yesterday and have problems starting and then run fine all day? Sorry for all of the questions... it's like greek to me. :)

Yes, when ICMs start to fail, the result can manifest itself in a number of ways; e.g. stalling, not starting, running fine until the engine heats up, fluctuating rpm, plus many others.

I recommend, from experience, that ICMs and coils be proactively replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Replacing these items normally restores "like new" reliability and performance.

I meant to share with you that it's not a good idea to jump modern-day cars. Voltage spikes can destroy ECMs, alternators, and sensors. We've had our share of those experiences on this site--always difficult, time consuming, and expensive to repair.

All right, it's been a while and we are finally getting around to getting this car fixed. A friend is over looking at it today actually, and it is getting great spark. What are the chances that the problem is still w/ the coil and ICM?

High.

Can you explain? I thought that the good spark means that there's a good chance that they are still working. Either way, we bought the parts. My friend doesn't feel comfortable changing them, so I'm going to have to get someone else to look at it.