MODEL 944608460 - WILL not start replced solenoid, but still nothing. No clicking. What could it be?

Possibilities are.

Bad ignition switch
Bad wire to solenoid
Safety switch/seat ground
Incorrect rewiring on new solenoid
Bad New solenoid ( Very Rare)

In a nut shell there is a small wire from battery to ignition switch... Power from that switch goes to one post on solenoid. The magnet in there makes the contact and power to other side of solenoid and to starter to start.

That's the basic loop here. Also check for a bad ground/wire on the solenoid. That would explain not hearing a "click" when you turn the Key to start.

New solenoid, new switch, still nothing.
Power to one side of solenoid can not get power to other side, even when is turn to start

Did you try a screw driver to jump the solenoid? If that works then you either have to solenoid hooked up wrong or it's a bad solenoid.
Or the ground on the seat is bad for the safety switch

Tried that and It will turn over, but will not start

OK...

First, disconnect the seat switch and jumper the connector... you can't do the other test sitting on the seat, can you?

Next, depress the clutch/brake pedal on the left and put the tractor in 'park brake' mode with the small lever at the bottom right of the dash.

Next, make sure the transmission is in neutral

Next, make sure the blades are DIS-engaged... this may be a lever or a toggle switch in the case of an electric clutch.

Doing these things will make sure that all the safety switches are as they would have to be to start the engine.

Next, since the solenoid is so inaccessible, connect a test lead to the positive battery and touch the other end to the battery lead on the starter... the engine should crank... if not, bad starter. If the engine cranks, disconnect and move on to the next test.

Then, check the fuse (automotive blade-type) in a holder at the right side of the rear of the engine... it will be sticking out of the wiring in that general area... if its good, move on to the next test.

NOW, REMOVE THE NEGATIVE CABLE FROM THE BATTERY - UNLESS YOU REALLY WANT TO SCREW THINGS UP.

Now, unless you have skinny arms or are made of rubber, remove the solenoid from the inside right side under the dash and battery.

The solenoid has 2 contacts, one (white wire) to the ignition switch, and the second (black wires) to ground (the solenoid does NOT ground through its mounting plate) - when you turn the key to the start position, the red wire on the ignition switch provides power (through the switch contacts) to the white wire, which will energize the solenoid, closing the contacts and activating the starter. So, to test the solenoid simply ground the black wire contact to negative battery and connect another test lead to the white wire contact... then, when you touch the second test lead to the positive battery, the solenoid should 'click'... if not, bad solenoid. If it does click, then test for continuity across the two battery connections on the solenoid when you touch the second test lead to the positive battery... if continuity, the solenoid is good... move on to next test.

Next, test for power at the solenoid end of the white wire to ground when you turn the key to start... there should be power... if not, bad ignition switch.

Next, test for continuity between the solenoid end of the black wire and the battery end of the negative battery cable... you should have continuity. If not, then you have a bad safety switch - generally, there are usually 3 - transmission neutral, park brake, and seat... often there is a fourth - blade engagement (lever or switch).

I know its long, but that is all there is to test on the starting system.

One more thing... DO NOT re-connect the negative battery cable until everything else is back together where it belongs.

Cheers, jim