Greetings all!

History:
In the last six months or so, I installed a new tub (Sterling) with a surround. I also put in custom tile work around the sides of the surround and across the top of the surround on all edges.

I had read several places on the internet that one should put down a puddle of cement under plastic/fiber glass/whatever types of tubs, but the manufacturer's instructions said that none was needed with this tub. Sadly, I wish I'd not listened to them and had heeded advice on the 'Net.

The tub has started creaking and does so more and more and the area where one stands and the tub creaks is getting bigger too... the area is increasing from front to back and side to side.

I obviously do not want to pull out all the tile work, the drywall, the surround and the tub to fix this. If the tub ultimately fails, I'm going to have to do all that anyway, so I'm trying to think of whatever I can do to avoid that as long as possible, even if it is ultimately inevitable.

I've scoured the 'Net looking for answers. Some people have said that they've silenced creaking by injecting expanding foam from underneath, but it seems to me that foam will eventually compress and leave one in the same situation (except perhaps that the tub will be a bit more insulated for baths!).

What I've been wondering about is injecting some sort of construction adhesive or epoxy from below. At the moment, I have the ceiling removed from the bathroom directly below the tub, so I have access to drill some holes through which to inject whatever I like.

So, setting aside for the moment the recommendation to simply yank the tub, what do people think would be best as a post-installation, injectable material? Something that could be applied from a caulk gun would seem easiest and least expensive, but two part epoxies might be stronger.

What say all of you?

Thanks for any input.

Joe

Any "injectable" material you put in the cavity from below will eventually loose its resilience and shrink.

Your best bet is to cut the flooring material under the tub from below and shim the shower basin with wood. Once you've done this you will need to replace the flooring you've taken out. This can be done a variety of ways, but the easiest is to bridge the floor joist on either side of your access hole with the same sized lumber used in the floor joist. Use liquid nail on top edge of your newly added joist materials to help keep new squeaks and creaks from occurring.

If tub is on inside wall, u can access it from other room by removing s/r.

Chuck

Hey Joe,
It's easier to open up a wall then it is to pull and reset the tub. Time to "bite the bullet", open up a wall and bed your tub. You're correct about the expanding foam. It will compress in time. Use cement or mortor and since your tub's flexing pay special attention around the drain. Good luck, Tom