I had my 93 Accord engine rebuilt a year ago. The car had a main relay problem after that and was replaced and started fine. The radiator fan would not come on so I bled the system no help and then replaced the thermostat. After that the car started roughly and shut down. I checked the thermostat again and it never started again. It has been 6 months since then. I checked today and found the ground wire unattached from the thermostat bolt and got excited. I reattached it and guess what? The car would not start:confused:

So I guess I screwed up my car troubleshooting the fan problem (I had installed a new fan timer unit and a thermostat) and leaving off the ground wire. I am this close to towing it to the junkyard, but I love my old car.

Question is should I drain the yucky gas? (How?) How do I go about fixing the starting issue? And if I get that lucky, how do I fix the fan problem. In that order. Thank you for reading this and taking sympathy on this blockhead:p

Starting Problem

. Remove, clean, and reattach the main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. It's the 3-wire brass connector.

. Remove and fully charge the battery. Clean battery terminals and cable connections.

. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), does the Check Engine Light come on and go off after 2 seconds? During this interval, do you hear the fuel pump run?

. Check all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post252145

. Check for spark. Remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. Look for a good, solid spark.

Fuel Problem

Siphon out as much fuel as you can, if you are sure it's bad. It's even possible to attach a hose to the fuel line and use the fuel pump to pump out the old fuel, by turning the ignition switch to ON (Position II).

Starting Problem

. Remove, clean, and reattach the main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. It's the 3-wire brass connector.

. Remove and fully charge the battery. Clean battery terminals and cable connections.

. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), does the Check Engine Light come on and go off after 2 seconds? During this interval, do you hear the fuel pump run?

. Check all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post252145

. Check for spark. Remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. Look for a good, solid spark.

Fuel Problem

Siphon out as much fuel as you can, if you are sure it's bad. It's even possible to attach a hose to the fuel line and use the fuel pump to pump out the old fuel, by turning the ignition switch to ON (Position II).

Update #1: I removed, cleaned, and reattached the ground wire from the thermostat. I then installed a fully charged new battery. Check engine light came on when ignition switch turned on and then went off, I did not hear the fuel pump, although it was a bit noisy. Cranked engine, but no start. I double checked the main relay plug under the dash, because I had messed with fan timer unit previously, it appeared plug in securely. Just in case I opened the doors to cool off the cabin, but no start.

I guess the next thing to do is to do is check for spark. Do I just unscrew any spark plug and touch it to the valve cover while someone turns on the ignition? Will I be able to hear it whir into action if it is quiet, and where is it? If I do not hear the pump is it a main relay problem again?

Thanks for the answers and looking forward to reporting back with a running engine and maybe no fan problem.:D

. Check all underhood and underdash fuses, as previously instructed. Be very thorough, since it can save a lot of time and money.

. Follow the steps below, since the fuel pump doesn't work:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-7.html#post1245523

. Check for spark. Remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. Look for a good, solid spark. It's easier to use an old plug and not have to remove one from the engine.

. Check all underhood and underdash fuses, as previously instructed. Be very thorough, since it can save a lot of time and money.

. Follow the steps below, since the fuel pump doesn't work:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-7.html#post1245523

. Check for spark. Remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. Look for a good, solid spark. It's easier to use an old plug and not have to remove one from the engine.

I triede the spark plug test by grounding it to the chassis, I saw a spark (I was expecting a big flash, but seriously I saw a little spark between the gap of the plug). So, I guess we are just missing some fuel to get this thing started. I still can't hear the fuel pump, so I imagine I will investigate that circuit next. I looked at all the fuses, they look OK visually, I don't have a multimeter, so that is the best I can do at the moment. I will carefully listen for the fuel pump next time I look at the car by listening by the gas cap or in the trunk ( when I can get some help).

Thanks again for the moral support.

I triede the spark plug test by grounding it to the chassis, I saw a spark (I was expecting a big flash, but seriously I saw a little spark between the gap of the plug). So, I guess we are just missing some fuel to get this thing started. I still can't hear the fuel pump, so I imagine I will investigate that circuit next. I looked at all the fuses, they look ok visually, I don't have a multimeter, so that is the best I can do at the moment. I will carefully listen for the fuel pump next time I look at the car by listening by the gas cap or in the trunk ( when I can get some help).

Thanks again for the moral support.

Update... I finally bought a multimeter and tested the fuses as directed. Underdash fuse #9 (7.5A Starter signal) has no power everything else is good there 12v. Underhood two fuses have no power they are r headlight and l headlight (20A). I jumpered 5 and 7 on the main relay and the pump did not run. I am suspecting that the ignition has something to do with this problem?

Replace those 3 fuses. Since the fuel pump did not run, when main relay Terminals 5 and 7 were jumped, I suspect the ACG (S) (ALT) may be bad. This fuse is ofter overlooked, since it's located in the SRS block of the underdash fuse box--often in the top right-hand portion of the fuse box.

When you jumped main relay Terminals 5 and 7, did you then turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)?

Replace those 3 fuses. Since the fuel pump did not run, when main relay Terminals 5 and 7 were jumped, I suspect the ACG (S) (ALT) may be bad. This fuse is ofter overlooked, since it's located in the SRS block of the underdash fuse box--often in the top right-hand portion of the fuse box.

Replace the fuse in the yellow block? If so, I already tested that one and it had 12v. The starter signal has no voltage, do I need to depress the clutch to power that one? I don't know why the headlight fuses have no power but I tested the fuses for continuity and they were fine. See the photo I have attached. Thanks mucho

When you jumped main relay Terminals 5 and 7, did you then turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II)?

Yes ignition on Position II and no sound.

Do you see an ACG (S) (ALT) fuse? They are usually 15A. If you replace all fuses and the fuel pump doesn't run, when Terminals 5 and 7 are jumped, I would check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-2.html#post224652

If the problem persists, I would check the connections on the fuel pump itself. If they are fine, I would replace the fuel pump. This would be the first bad Honda fuel pump I've seen--they are that reliable. I know my days of making that statement, however, are numbered.

You might even remove the 7.5A fuse that tests bad and clean the contacts with steel wool or abrasive cloth--then retest.

Are you testing both test points on each fuse? Do you have SRS (air bag)? Be sure to double-check the 10A fuse in the yellow box.

Do you see an ACG (S) (ALT) fuse? They are usually 15A.

No I don't, is it under the dash or the hood?


You might even remove the 7.5A fuse that tests bad and clean the contacts with steel wool or abrasive cloth--then retest.

Done and no help I even replaced it. Why no power?


Are you testing both test points on each fuse? Do you have SRS (air bag)? Be sure to double-check the 10A fuse in the yellow box.

Yes both points have 12vdc I replaced the fuse anyway. No joy on the starting.

The ACG (S) (ALT) fuse is in the underdash fuse box. It stands for alternator, cruise control, gauges, and SRS unit.

Next, check the ignition switch and the fuel pump. If you think the switch is good, jump ahead to the fuel pump.

Do you hear the main relay click twice, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?

Check for continuity between main relay connector Terminal 7 and the fuel pump. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring.

Check fuel pump. Clean connections and thoroughly test pump motor, prior to replacement. Before going any further, all efforts must be focused on getting the fuel pump to run.

Tested continuity between main relay pin 7 and ground, it had continuity. So I guess that means the wiring is good between the fuel pump and the main relay. I will check for power at the fuel pump later on today.

Still no power on the #9 (starter signal) fuse under dash. Fuse has been swapped. Could this still be an ICM problem? Or do you think it is the ignition switch? Possibly another relay like the Starter Cut relay?

Don't you mean ECM, not ICM? I believe your ECM (computer) is fine. You are getting close to solving the problem, so don't give up.

. Try this:

Disconnect main relay connector, turn ignition switch to START (clutch pedal must be depressed), and measure voltage between Terminal 6 (to Starter Switch) and ground. If there's still no voltage, repair an open in the wire between the main relay and the Starter Signal Fuse.

. Test the fuel pump, if all of the above checks out:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-2.html#post234818

Don't you mean ECM, not ICM? I believe your ECM (computer) is fine.

No I meant Ignition Control Module, I thought it might have something to do with the starter signal power,



Disconnect main relay connector, turn ignition switch to START (clutch pedal must be depressed), and measure voltage between Terminal 6 (to Starter Switch) and ground. If there's still no voltage, repair an open in the wire between the main relay and the Starter Signal Fuse.

When you say start do you mean turn the key all the way or just position II or I? I tried this in Position I and II and got no voltage, but I was apprehensive about turning the key all the way... I guess I should have.


Test the fuel pump, if all of the above checks out:


How do I get the rear seat out? I removed the one 10mm bolt from lower cushion but the seat won't budge. I did see what looked like a pump behind the passenger side in the trunk, but I didn't think that was it.

Thank you for all of your replies... I will post when this is fixed and will show the appropriate gratitude to you:)

. No, the ICM doesn't affect starter signal power.

. Depress clutch and turn the ignition switch all the way, as if you were trying to start the car.

. You'll have to use your own judgment regarding the rear seat.

. No, the ICM doesn't affect starter signal power.

. Depress clutch and turn the ignition switch all the way, as if you were trying to start the car.

. You'll have to use your own judgment regarding the rear seat.

I depressed the clutch and turned the ignition switch to start and I observed voltage not quite 12v somewhere around 8-9v.

I did manage to remove the back seat but I am not sure where the fuel pump harness is. The only cover plate I found was on the passenger side, Is this the tank unit (float)?

OK, I checked for voltage at the pump using the yellow wire on the three pin connector next to the sending unit and got 12V. Does that mean it is the pump for sure?

I'm not sure what that is--it doesn't look like the fuel pumps I've seen on Hondas. You usually see a fuel line going to the pump and a sending unit next to it.

This is what it should look like:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Fuel+Delivery&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=cat10007&currentPage=1&filterByKeyWord=fuel+pump&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=14900078&categoryNValue=14999999&fromWhere=&itemId=prod10652&displayName=Fuel+Pump&searchText=fuel+pump

I'm not sure what that is--it doesn't look like the fuel pumps I've seen on Hondas. You usually see a fuel line going to the pump and a sending unit next to it.

This is what it should look like:

AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection | Year (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Fuel+Delivery&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=cat10007&currentPage=1&filterByKeyWord=fuel+pump&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=14900078&categoryNValue=14999999&fromWhere=&itemId=prod10652&displayName=Fuel+Pump&searchText=fuel+pump)

That is the fuel tank sending unit in the picture. The harness is shared by the fuel pump, I had an old Haynes manual that showed me what it was, but it was a little obvious that it was a tank unit being on top of the fuel tank ( I just wasn't certain at first).

So power at the fuel pump harness sort of leads to one conclusion. I will jumper the fuel pump from the harness tomorrow though.

Is that corossion on the left harness wire and bolt, near the seatbelt? If so, clean and apply dielectric grease.

Here is another update about my fuel pump problem. I have dropped the fuel tank and removed the pump. I can see why it was not working. The entire tank is filled with sludge. Now, I wonder if I should just change the sending unit for good measure since I have the tank out already. Anyway, I am going to finish tomorrow since it is late, dark, and I am tired.

Yes, I would change the sending unit. Fuel pumps require fuel for cooling--your's likely burned out from the sludge. Your hard work will likely extend the life of your Accord by many years. Nice job.

Yes, I would go ahead and change the sending unit. Fuel pumps require fuel for cooling--your's likely burned out from the sludge. Your hard work will likely extend the life of your Accord by many years. Nice job.

Here is the update,, I installed the pump and the pump works strong. But it leaks. I dropped the tank again to look for the leak and can't find anything unusual, the banjo bolt is tight and the hoses are fine. I thought maybe the pump seal was leaking so I pulled the pump again and checked it. It is installed correctly and appears to be serviceable. It still leaks.:mad:

I am not giving up, but I will be able to open my own shop after this.:)

Was it a new pump? Where does it leak? Change the fuel filter--it may be so plugged from sludge that the fuel pressure regulator doesn't direct excess fuel and pressure back to the gas tank. Instead, it's forced out somewhere.

Was it a new pump? Where does it leak?

It is a new pump and it runs well, but it leaks from where I do not know:confused:

Why do you say that the pump leaks?

Why do you say that the pump leaks?

Because fuel was dripping from the top of the tank, mostly from the front. When I dropped the tank to check the leak, I noticed residual fuel on the top of the tank near the pump. There was never a leak up there before the pump was changed.

Did you install new copper washers to the banjo bolt and torque it to, I believe, 20 lb.-ft. They are "crush" washers. Check the spring clamp and integrity of the other fuel line.

Did you install new copper washers to the banjo bolt and torque it to, I believe, 20 lb.-ft.? They are "crush" washers. Check the spring clamp and integrity of the other fuel line.

Yes, the new pump came with them. I torqued everything down.

The Sending Unit is likely located in front of the Fuel Pump on your tank. Did you check the seals to the Sending Unit? I'm just asking the obvious now. Sorry, not much else I can contribute.

The Sending Unit is likely located in front of the Fuel Pump on your tank. Did you check the seals to the Sending Unit? I'm just asking the obvious now. Sorry, not much else I can contribute.

THe sending unit is to the right of the fuel pump and is accessible from the trunk through a removable panel. So I have been able to leak check that from the top already.

Still not fixed yet but I think I found out why the new pump assembly is leaking. The bracket on the new pump that secures the banjo bolt does not let the fitting sit flush. I didn't catch at first because with the washers installed on the bolt you can't see the gap. I checked against the old one and without the copper washer the fitting sits flush. On the new one without a washer there is a gap a 16th of an inch on the front side.

So, I think I will just install the pump kit with the strainer and return the assembly.

Still not fixed yet but I think I found out why the new pump assembly is leaking. The bracket on the new pump that secures the banjo bolt does not let the fitting sit flush. I didn't catch at first because with the washers installed on the bolt you can't see the gap. I checked against the old one and without the copper washer the fitting sits flush. On the new one without a washer there is a gap a 16th of an inch on the front side.

So, I think I will just install the pump kit with the strainer and return the assembly.

Partial success... The pump is installed not leaking and the car turned over!:D

But it is running really rough, the battery is completely dead, and the radiator fan is not running... again. So the fuel delivery system seems OK, but why is it running so rough?

. Remove and fully charge the battery--AutoZone will do this for free. Clean battery terminals and cable connections.

. Install a new fuel filter.

. Add Chevron Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner to the gas.

. Read this link on fixing radiator fans:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-9.html#post1642158

. Install new NGK spark plugs.

. Clean the Idle Air Control Valve:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-7.html#post1054149

. Clean air box, with a damp rag, and replace air filter.