View Full Version : Fuse for sons behringer amp
csavage1
Apr 1, 2009, 06:53 PM
My son has tried to find a fuse for his amp,he went to the music store where it was bought new and they sent him to radioshack. Radio shack did give him one but it was not the right one so he did not try it. The fuse is T 5.00 A H 250V
Any idea where he could get one?
We may try Behringer if all else fails.
One last question would be if the unit is 120v then why is the fuse 250v ?
Thanks for your help.
Stratmando
Apr 1, 2009, 07:05 PM
Its rated to 250 volts, he needs a 5 Amp as you describe, the A H is not Amp Hour.
If it had a 5, replace with a 5, if it blows, you may have an internal problem.
csavage1
Apr 1, 2009, 07:09 PM
Thanks for the speedy reply, we will try napa and see if they can get any.
Thanks for helping the boy to get rocking with the amp.
MarkwithaK
Apr 1, 2009, 07:12 PM
Huh? Is this an automotive style fuse? Radio Shack couldn't match it up? Did you take them the actual fuse?
csavage1
Apr 1, 2009, 07:15 PM
Huh? Is this an automotive style fuse? Radio Shack couldn't match it up? Did you take them the actual fuse?
No he used the online site from radio shack and they shipped the wrong one.
Stratmando
Apr 1, 2009, 07:18 PM
Your fine, the 5 amps is important.
MarkwithaK
Apr 1, 2009, 07:24 PM
Take the fuse into your local Shack. There are countless styles of fuses that are available in 5A @ 250VAC.
Stratmando
Apr 1, 2009, 07:33 PM
Mark, got stock with RS?
If its 5 amps and physically fits, you are safe, it won't blow/burn up. Been in Electronics about 35 years. Some might suggest get from the factory? However you feel safe.
MarkwithaK
Apr 1, 2009, 07:45 PM
Mark, got stock with RS?
If its 5 amps and physically fits, you are safe, it wont blow/burn up. Been in Electronics about 35 years. Some might suggest get from the factory? However you feel safe.
No. In fact I despise RS. I much rather prefer a specialty retailer that knows what they are talking about and not try to sell me an I-Pod when all I want is a fuse. But my resources are totally different from those of others. But in my experience it always better to physically take the part with you to match it up... eliminates all most all error. And not all fuses are the same regardless of physical size, for example it could be a slow-blow fuse. My point is, in effort to do it right the first time take it it in and match it up.
Stratmando
Apr 2, 2009, 04:58 AM
This may help:
Fuse Selector by Type, Size, Material, Acting, Amperage, Voltage. (http://www.circuitprotection.ca/fuseselector.html)
There are fast acting as well as slo-blow, and the Regular duty fuses are most available in stores.
The newer fuses in cars makes it easy, If a yellow fuse blew, replace with a yellow, size/spacing of blades important.
I would be playing my guitar, fuse type is not that critical.
In my teens, I routed out My Fender Strat, installed Dual Humbuckers, Preamp, active tone control, compressor inside the guitar.
That was about 36 years ago, been in electronics ever since.
Very Powerful, clean sound, I used Op Amps.
I do agree for most people it is best to bring part and get an exact match if possible.
You could go to a store and they may give you something that crosses over, not exact, but they made a sale?
csavage1
Apr 2, 2009, 05:15 AM
Thanks for the help guys, this is a Europower PMH660M amp and it requires a fast acting fuse.
Stratmando
Apr 2, 2009, 05:33 AM
Nice amp, I pictured something else, here's the manual if you don't have it:
http://www.behringerdownload.de/PMH660M_880S/PMH660M_PMH880S_ENG_Rev_E0.pdf
2 sources for the fuse:
http://www.netcomponents.com/results.htm?t=f&r=1&d=1&pn1=T5AH-250V&SUBMIT1=Search
http://www.4starelectronics.com/part_search/search_results.asp?partid=T5AH250V&cmpid=1051&OVKEY=%22T5AH-250V%22
csavage1
Apr 28, 2009, 02:20 PM
Well we got the fuses and they cost us $35.00 including shipping for 5 fuses.
Unfortunately its not the fuse that is causing the sound to cut out.
We have tried to find a repair center and the only one in this state is 7 hours away.We also have sent numerous emails to behringer with very little help.This model is no longer made .
All of the shops around here will not work on them because they have no schematic and Behringer is made in Germany.
All my son wants is to crank that amp so if you have any ideas what the next step would be it would be great. Thanks for your Time and Help
DanielF
Apr 28, 2009, 09:32 PM
csavage1,
You didn't say what physical size the fuse is - 3AG or 5x20mm. Either way you shouldn't have any difficulty finding one at a Radio Shack or similar.
Just be aware that your fuse is a 'slo-blo' (the 'T' stands for 'Time-delay'), so don't settle for a fast-blow type (no 'T' prefix).
DanielF
DanielF
Apr 29, 2009, 09:39 PM
Sorry, my previous answer was a little out of step - I didn't notice that previous responses to this question ran to two pages (yeah, I'm a beginner here! :D).
You're now talking about 'cutting out' when your son cranks the volume up. Can you clarify this - does it cut out (no output) just momentarily, until the volume is turned down, or does it go off and stay off for a long time, recovering only after several minutes, or perhaps after a power-down for a few minutes?
Sounds to me like an overload problem, with the amp's safety circuits doing what they're supposed to do - stop the kid from blowing up his output transistors! (Or perhaps just stopping the output from 'clipping' and sounding horribly distorted [which a lot of kids wouldn't worry about :)].)
Daniel
csavage1
Apr 30, 2009, 04:01 AM
No Problem Daniel and welcome to the net.
The actual short we found is at the standby power switch. At start up and when you are playing some music it will cut out for a few seconds and if it does not come back on (with sound) you can semi press the standby switch and a little crackling noise is present. It does go away but it should not happen.
The first thought we had was the 5 amp fuse but that was not the case.
Any advise is deeply appreciated. Thanks Carl
Stratmando
Apr 30, 2009, 05:05 AM
The switch sounds like it may be bad.
DanielF
Apr 30, 2009, 09:41 PM
Or maybe just dirty! Have you tried spraying the switch's internals with a contact cleaner (preferably a non-residue type)?
Daniel