I viewed an answer very close to my problem from and earlier thread.

I just put in a brand new ignitor for my gas dryer: The first time I start it the ignitor turns orange then the gas kicks on to create heat for about 30 sec, the ignitor and gas turn off. 1-2 min later the ignitor glows orange again for about 20 sec... no gas... then the ignitor turns off and this repeats. I do see a small about of paint (coating) from where the flame is coming out that is also glowing orange.

When the gas comes on the first time in the cycle it will stay on for about 30 sec. Your help would be appreciated.

What was the reason for the ignitor replacement in the first place? I assume you got the correct replacement?
There are limits on the back of the dryer that open the circuit should the dryer over heat. I have seen these flake out where they don't fail totally which open the circuit and need replacement but open and close cutting in and out, this will cut the gas cycling the circuit on and off, usually these fail totally. These are circular discs shaped units with 2 wires on the back usually there are 2 of them, you can jumper them out TEMPORARILY ONLY never ever leave it like this or you risk a fire. Only for trouble shooting purposes only. If the dryer keeps running you found your problem and about $7 later you are back in business. You could also have a solenoid on the gas valve that is cutting out that would require a meter to determine that. There isn't much in the circuit leaving out the timer on the panel, there is the ignitor, gas valve, door switch and a couple of high limits all in series with each other, any opens and the circuit will open and the heat will stop... oh yea there is also an air switch on the back of the dryer, that is to make sure there is positive air flow so there isn't an explosion, you don't want gas and ignition without airflow. If you have a blocked vent and don't have a positive airflow through the dryer the positive airflow switch won't close and your dryer won't light or stay lit. That is usually a flat round shaped plate that is pulled against the back of the dryer when air is pulled into the dryer completing the circuit, if that flapper isn't closing all the way due to improper airflow for whatever reason, clogged vent stack, clogged screen etc... the dryer will never stay lit...
Good Luck...
Bill

What's your gas supply ? Size ? Pressure ? How many gas fixtures in your house ? Also, is your vent clear and w/o obstructions ?

But some new dryers work like you describe: few moments ON, few moments OFF and so on. What's the brand / model name of your dryer ?

Thanks for the responses. I replaced the ignitor because it did not appear to be working. I did not see the two circular discs that you were talking about. I have both vacummed the exhaust tube to the outside and removed everything to check that the there is positive air flow, and there is.

Two questions:
How do I get to the discs you were referring to?
What is the chance that this could be the flame sensor?

Thanks for the responses. I replaced the ignitor because it did not appear to be working. I did not see the two circular discs that you were talking about. I have both vacummed the exhaust tube to the outside and removed everything to check that the there is positive air flow, and there is.

Two questions:
How do I get to the discs you were referring to?
What is the chance that this could be the flame sensor?

As for the model I have a 2001 LDG7304AAE gas dryer

Inside the cabinet mounted to the inlet duct where the gas valve is mounted there is a combustion cone assembly, on one side of the combustion cone is the radiant sensor that could be faulty not detecting the heat from the ignitor, and on the other side you will find the high limit, usually testing that with a ohm meter will show continuity if it is good.
I found a link that shows a part list break down and its listed as part #17. Some dryers have access from the back, others you have to take the back panel off to access these parts. Hopefully the diagrams will give you an idea where I am describing. Also the gas valve itself has 2 coils on top of itself that could also be a culprit they are magnetic switches and these coils fail over time and don't hold and can be replaced individually, although recommend replacing them both. That requires a meter and some trouble shooting skills to diagnose properly.

Maytag LDG7304AAE Parts List (http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=267092&ModelNum=LDG7304AAE&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=34923&Position=4&mfg=Maytag&Type=&Mark=4)

Bill

I would by process of elimination jumper out the high limit with a piece of wire. Remove both wires from the high limit, when you find it you will know its about the size of a quarter in diameter with 2 spade terminals sticking out each side with a wire attached on each, just pull each wire off and connect each of the 2 wires together with some jumper wire and run the dryer, if the dryer runs you found your problem, if not then you eliminated that high limit as it not being the problem or unlikely its one of 2 problems but I would really doubt that.
I would then look at the radiant sensor as not detecting the heat from the ignitor and not opening the gas valve or is failing once heated up and that would require a meter and I can walk you through that step. I know it probably might not be easy depending on the access, not sure how much access you have or not, if you can get through it from the back or side, but there is a way as technicians do it all the time its just a matter of finding the right way...
Good luck... one step at a time..
Bill...