Hi I found a worded version of the wiring diagram I drew out. I want the outlet to be always on and the light to go on and off with the switch. Can any one tell me what's wrong with my diagram.
Thanks in advance

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb217/Ineedaplacetohost/DSCN3302.jpg

First, you can post directly using "Go Advanced/manage attachments"

Your circuit should work unless someone broke off the tap between the duplex outlet.

Conceptually, it's wrong because 2 conductor cables are normally run.

First, you have to think about terms like "switch loop".


Power to the outlet is fine. Now take a cable an run it to the light junction box from the lower outlet. Actually pigtail within the outlet. (cable #1 - power)

Now take another cable and run it from the switch to the ceiling box. Use electrical tape and tape the end of the white wire black. At the other end in the ceiling box, again tape the end of the white wire black. (cable #2 - switch)

So, far so good.

Now in the light junction box:
Take cable #1 power - black and connect to cable #2 - switch ( black) This gives you switched power on the (cable #1 - power)/white taped black).

Now connect (cable #2-switch white taped Black) to light black with a wire nut.

Connect the remaining whites together. (Cable #1-power/white) to lamp fixture white.

Check for a broken tab.

The idea with taping is to avoid confusion since the white in the switch is not a neutral. Black and white should connect to the fixture.

K I think I understand what you are saying, but is my setup OK? Is it safe and to code? It works fine I just accidentally screwed a wire nut on too tight and it broke the wire. And I actually came up with the diagram I just said that it was some where else on the net so I wouldn't feel stupid :), but thanks for all the help already.

Single wires that aren't protected is not accepted. Most house wire is Romex or NM-B cable with an outer jacket.

Usually 14/2 means 14/2 with ground and 14/3 is 3 conductors and a ground.

So your actually running at least 2 conductor cable to the fixtures.

If I were wiring a home, I would use 3 conductor cable so you get a neutral available in the switch.

Thanks for the quick reply. My diagram depicts the direction of flow, I know my diagram was not right but I'm using 12-2 nm-B, sheathed cable. I am only running a 15 amp, so I read that 14 is fine, but I just decided to use 12 in case (I think I just wasted money :) ) Here is what I have. I do have a question though about the ground wire, In the bottom right at the plug is that OK that I connected both grounds to the ground screw on the outlet?

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb217/Ineedaplacetohost/YOYOYOYOYOYOYOYOYO.jpg

O and once again I really appreciate you helping me, I'm trying to do this for my parents, since they let me live in one of there rental houses rent free until I graduated (which I just recently have). I want to remodel one of the bathrooms. As you can see by the light fixture it really needs it. Ha ha

If your going to cover the junction box on the left, it's not allowed. JB's must be accessible. That's why you wire as I suggested. As I said neutrals are nice to have around for automation devices.

Also there are no strain reliefs on that box.

Wire a little neater.

The way grounded outlets should be done in a metallic box is:

Grounds to outlet like you did, but...

You an purchase "pigtails" in various configurations.
In your case a spade terminal to a ground screw.
There is usually a threaded hole that will accept a green ground screw in newer boxes. Attach a pigtail there and to the ground terminal on the outlet.

Ok I will rip it out in the morning, is this what you were referring to in your post above? How To Wire a Switch - Light then Switch then Outlet (http://www.indepthinfo.com/wire-switch/light-switch-outlet.shtml)

Nice link.

There is more than one way to wire things. That pic shows the pigtail although not the commercial premade variety and it has a neutral in each box.

When your ripping out a bathroom it's nice to plan for things:
1. exhaust fan
2. Heater or heat lamp
3. Lights (ceiling, sink, night light)
4.GFCI breakers or outlets
5. Towel warmers (kidding)
6. radient floor heating (kidding)

If possible keeping the lights on a separate circuit so if a GFCI pops your not left in the dark. This is important for older people.

K thanks. It is all done now, but I have a question for the other bathroom. Can you leave a jb exposed to the attic, I know you said you can't cover them. This is because I need to extend a set of wires. Is there any other way I should extend wires?

You can have a junction box in the attic, must be accessible. Other option is from panel to where you need it. No splices.

Thanks for the help guys, you helped me complete my budget remodel for my parents rental, Im about to do their other bathroom with the knowledge you guys have provided, Here is the finished product, I spent less than $500. And the stupid mirror alone was 200 :). Thanks again soooooo much and hopefully you can answer more questions if I have them.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb217/Ineedaplacetohost/Before1.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb217/Ineedaplacetohost/after4.jpg

Reply to original post:

You have switched the neutral!

While it will work this way, it isn't safe.