I am having trouble with my Honda Accord (92). I have changed the spark plugs, the distributor, the igniter, main relay, coil and plug wires. Ok, I have read many responses on this site and I need some help summing up my problem.

When I turn my key forward, I do not here the fuel pump kicking on. All I hear is the click from the Main relay. I need help finding out if the problem is actually my pump or if it is a relay or module of some type that can cause this problem.

I did spray in starting fluid and the car started up fine, so I know the problem is the car not receiving any gas.

Any help will be appreciated greatly.

Fuel System Troubleshooting

This is a two-part problem: 1) Determine if the fuel pump works, and 2) Determine why the PGM-FI Main Relay doesn't work properly.

If you don't hear the fuel pump run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II):

Problem 1: Determine if the fuel pump works.

1. Disconnect the main relay from the main relay connector. Jump main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7, turn the ignition switch to ON, and listen for the fuel pump in the gas tank. If you can hear the fuel pump run, which is usually the case, it is likely good and you should proceed to Problem 2. If it doesn't run, go to Step 2.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 5 and ground. If there's not battery voltage, test/replace the ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring between the main relay and the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse. Verify that you now have battery voltage to Terminal 5. If the fuel pump still doesn't run, however, go to Step 3.

3. Check for continuity between main relay connector Terminal 7 and the fuel pump. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring. If the fuel pump still doesn't run, go to Step 4.

4. Check fuel pump. Even though it's certainly possible, I have never seen a Honda fuel pump fail. They are very reliable. Clean connections and thoroughly test pump motor, prior to replacement. Before going any further, all efforts must be focused on getting the fuel pump to run (i.e. solve Problem 1 first), when main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7 are jumped and the ignition switch is turned to ON. If the main relay and fuel pump still don't work properly together, however, go to Problem 2.

Problem 2: Determine why the PGM-FI Main Relay doesn't work properly.

5. Check for continuity between main relay connector Terminal 2 and body ground, with the ignition switch OFF. If there's no continuity, clean the main ECM ground, which is usually located on the thermostat housing. Look for 3 wires going to a brass connector. Remove the 10 mm bolt, clean with No. 240 abrasive cloth, and apply dielectric grease. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring between the main relay and the main ECM ground. If there's continuity, go to Step 6.

6. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 1 and ground. If there is not battery voltage, test/replace the ECM fuse (15 A) in the under-hood fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring between the main relay and the ECM fuse. If there is battery voltage, go to Step 7.

7. Turn the ignition switch to START. With manual transmissions, depress the clutch pedal. With automatic transmissions, the gear selector must be in Neutral or Park. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 6 and ground. If there's not battery voltage, test/replace the STARTER SIGNAL (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wire between the main relay and the STARTER SIGNAL fuse. Should the main relay and fuel pump still not work properly, go to Step 8.

8. Perform the K-Test on the ECM. Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate. The ECM controls grounding to main relay Terminal 8, which affects when the second relay inside the main relay opens and closes. If the ECM cannot control grounding to the second relay, the fuel pump will not run. The only alternative is to replace the ECM.

SUMMARY OF MAIN RELAY PROBLEM AREAS:

Terminal 1--Test ECM fuse in under-hood fuse box.
Terminal 2--Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.
Terminal 5--Test ACG (ALT) (S) fuse in under-dash fuse box.
Terminal 6--Test STARTER SIGNAL fuse in under-dash fuse box.
Terminal 7--Test continuity to fuel pump.
Terminal 8--Test ECM (K-Test).

Many hours of research, thought, and experience went into designing this easily understood approach to troubleshooting one of Honda's most complex systems. I consider this the most thorough coverage of this subject anywhere--it doesn't get any easier or better than this. I'm proud of this work and hope it blesses many people.

Here's how to easily test all underdash and underhood fuses:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-3.html#post252145

Ok, now I am a little confused. Is the Main Relay the one that is mounted nest to a silver box on the left side of the steering wheel? And if so it only has 4 slots on it. I think maybe I have the wrong one? Can you provide a image of what the main relay looks like?

Thank you

Under dash, left of steering column (hidden by silver cruise control box, which needs to be removed). Turn ignition switch on and off, then you'll hear and feel it click.

So what was the silver box that was mounted on the silver box, I am just curious. I think I changed the right one.

Also I forgot to mention that when I turn the ignition, I hear one clicking noise. I also continue to hear a clicking noise when the engine is cranking. I just do not want to waste money on a fuel pump if I do not need it.

Do you have any idea what the clicking noise is, the noise is coming from where the original first click comes from.

Thank you

It's likely the second relay inside the main relay. The first order of business is to clean the main ECM ground on the thermostat and test all underdash and underhood fuses. The second order of business is to jump the main relay and determine if the fuel pump runs. There's enough information in the help that you should be able to zero in on where the real problem is, even if your setup is slightly different. Consider buying a Haynes Manual for your Accord--it will undoubtedly have pictures of your main relay.

Hi,
I have checked the fuses, everything is OK. So tomorrow I will test the relay, I will jump terminal 5 and 7 to see if I have a problem. If the fuel pump does not kick on then I will change the main relay. I will leave the results of what I find tomorrow. Thank you for the advice.

Did you follow Method 2 and test for power through the fuses? The fuses may be good but the terminals are corroded. I've seen this many times. Clean any "bad" fuse with steel wool or abrasive cloth and apply a thin coating of dielectric grease.

I just checked the wires and the main relay, when I attempted to jump terminals 5 and 7 I did not get no response from the fuel pump. I went ahaed and replaced the Main relay, I am still having the same problem.

Should I replace the ecm? Or the fuel pump next?

I am hearing a clicking noise when I turn the key, the noise is coming from where the ecm is.. I am not sure if this is normal or not

ECMs are solid-state and don't normally make any noise--I don't know what that is.

. Perform the K-Test on the ECM, even though it is probably fine:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

. Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting, before you do anything about the fuel pump:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-2.html#post224652

. Check for any corrosion on the connectors going to the fuel pump. Be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable first and keep a fire extinguisher at hand. Do the work outside of your house. If the problem persists, the fuel pump is likely bad--if confirmed, it will be the first truly bad Honda fuel pump I've heard of. They are very reliable.

Are you sure you tested the ACG (S) (ALT) fuse, in the underdash fuse box, with a test light or multimeter? It controls power to Terminal 5 and to the fuel pump. It is often located in the SRS fuse block (for air bag) and not obvious. I bet it blew or someone removed it from the slot. I had a naval aircraft mechanic in San Diego whose "buddy" removed the ACG (S) (ALT) fuse on him as a prank. It took me several days to zero-in on the problem.