Just wondering how to check a key switch on a rider to see if it is bad?

If still connected, a voltmeter will work, if removed a continuity tester can test.

Find the large wire coming from the switch to the starter. Put a test lead on the connection of the wire and the starter and ground the other lead to the engine block, now tyrn the key. Hope you have 3 hands or a helper.

A couple of things on Ignition switches. Most Have a constant hot, then a ignition switched, and accessory position, and the start position.
Some systems will have 2 other connections, 1 to a Mag, and another to ground.
Kill and Safety circuits can give the symptoms of a bad switch.

Right and the chances are better than one of your several safety switches has failed. Do you know how to check them?

Right and the chances are better than one of your several safety switches has failed. Do you know how to check them?

I don't no how to check them can u tell me? Thanks

Use a continuity tester for this. Locate all switches; one under the seat, one on the blade engage linkage and likely another of your shifter or clutch/brake. Once you find them disconnect the wiring harness and insert your two test leads in the females connector. As you actuate the switch you should see the circuit open and close. If it stays open or stays closed no matter how you operate the switch then it is bad. You may need to check you manual to find all switches, they are not in your face and can be well hidden.

OK I found them and tested the brake one. Power to it and you turn the switch and it powers the other wire so I think that one is good the blade switch has 4 wires 2 yellow and 2 blue the blue ones go to seat switch. One yellow has power and turn switch and the other yellow lights up. But how about the blue ones no power at all is that a ground only type or is there a way to check the blue wires that go from the blade switch to the seat switch? Thanks you are great

Can u tell me how to check the seat safety switch? There is no power to it?

Never seen the schematic for these, if it is to not allow the starter to operate unless sitting, and deck disengaged, anyone know if standing up when running if it will die, or is it just for starter. If the 1 way, then the starter solenoid likely gets its positive from ignition switch, and the ground would go through the safetys in series, and the last switch would have a wire to ground. Test at Starter and see if you are getting a hot voltage when key is turned, and if aware of the dangers and able to safely override switches, a quick test could be done.

I checked the continuity for each switch and they are working so I think I have checked everything except the switch so I am thinking it is bad? Any other comments.. thanks..

Check for power to switch, and all terminals, turn key on, look for that ignition switched wire(should now be hot), then turn key to start and see which is now hot, that is your starter wire.
I would test for voltage whichever is more easily accessible, the Ignition Switch, or the starter.
2 conditions need to be met at the solenoid, a hot and a ground.
Good Luck.
If you have a Test light, hook clip to Battery ground and look for hot with the probe when switch is turned to start, then clip onto the Battery POSITIVE and now touch the probe to the ground terminal connection on starter, see if when all saftys are intact, it lights, then disengage, light should go out.

Thanks there is power to switch and when u turn it the only one that lights is the one for the headlights there is no other leads that get hot. And there is no power to the other side of the silinoid or to the starter so I think it can only be the switch?

Do you have a schematic, or Make and model#?
Picture of switch and solenoid with the wires attached?

It is a huskey mower I don't have the numbers with me and I do not have a wire diagram the switch has five plugs on the back of it there was some corrosion on them not a lot.. Tried to clean them.. But no luck I can start the mower off the silinoid by jumping across

Are you jumping the hot? if so the ground is intact.
You could disconnect the hot that you are jumping, put voltage on it and llok for volyage at switch. Ignition switch may have a fused hot for headlights, another for Ignition/Start?
Got to go. Will check back later.

Randy , remember we are not necessarily looking for power through the switch, just continuity. Insert your test leads and open and close the switch, your tester should show an open circuit or no circuit and then a closed circuit, you do this with the harness removed so no power.

Great I will try that. Do I just touch the lead with the continuity tester and ground the other lead end to check for continuity and listen for the beep? Thanks for your help

You put both test leads on the switch, one on each side. You are trying to determine if the switch can make and break a circuit. It is like a light switch, flip it one way and it makes a connection allowing power to flow through. Flip it the other way and it is now an open circuit and no power can pass through. You are testing the continuity of the switch, you do not need to put your tractors battery power through it, the continuity tester has its own little battery inside.

I found this, doesn't show ground for solenoid?:
Basic Tractor wiring diagram (http://www.small-engines.com/wirediag.html)

Thanks a lot guys I am getting a new switch today and I am sure it will take care of it. Thanks a lot for your help

Switch didn't work on it either... anyone have any ideas

Are you talking about a new replacement switch not working also. By not working do you mean you tested the switch with your tester and it failed or you installed it and the trctor still won't start?

Yes I put it on the tractor and there is still a no start the only way I can start it is jump the silinoid this is so flustering to me

Did all other switches test out as OK? It would be a odd coincidence for 2 to be bad at once but worth asking the question.

Yes I did the contnuity test on all the switches and they were all working

Solenoid is about all there is left. I pulled this from the net rather than retyping myself. "Bench-testing a starter solenoid is a relatively simple procedure, and while solenoid styles vary from engine to engine, all solenoids have two large terminal studs and two small terminal studs."

Begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable from the battery. Next remove all leads from the solenoid terminal studs. There is no need to remove the solenoid from the engine. Connect an ohmmeter—calibrated on the Rx1 scale—to the two large terminal studs (1 and 2 above, in both illustrations). The ohmmeter should indicate no continuity, because no power is running through it. Replace the solenoid if any other reading is noted.

Using jumper cables, attach a 12-volt battery to the two small solenoid studs (3 and 4, above)—polarity is not important. You should hear a click as (or if) the solenoid engages, and the ohmmeter should indicate continuity. This is because the solenoid is a high-amperage switch that when energized shows a closed circuit. Replace the solenoid if any other reading is noted.

When you are finished, replace all the leads and connect the negative battery cable last."

I thought he got starter to turn by jumping at solenoid, I was thinking he meant jumping the start terminal to the Large positive, that would tell the solenoid is working, I'm thinking there is a second hot for the ignition/start, not the headlight circuit.

randy1212, did you simulat the key ate the solenoid, or did you jump the 2 largest connections(Battert and Starter)?

I think I am done it runs fine starting it off the solenoid maybe I can just put a start toggle switch on it? Wow this is unbelievable

If you did all test, and saw voltage leaving ignition switch in the start position, and you can provide power to solenoid start wire, then it can only be the wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid.
Be careful about being in gear and or engaged when jumping at solenoid.
REALLY NEED to know, are you jumping large conductors, or are you jumping to start terminal? These are important questions to determine which way to go?

Sorry guys I found it. I did not test the foot safety switch right. Wow I learned a lot. Here. Thanks a lot for your help I learned a lot.

Thanks for hanging in there. Many would have given up. Take Care

Glad this worked out for you. As I mentioned earlier the safety switches usually go bad before the ignition. The brake/clutch switch is used more than the other 2 so it makes sense to go bad first.