OK so the washing machine is in the garage the house is rather old probably 50 to 60 years although most things seem to be in decent shape my problem is that the washing machine was causeing the bathroom sink on the opposite wall to fill with water I figured it had to be the way the washer was piped so I took all the piping out and started where the black iron pipe fitting went to pvc and I went to a tee and then put the plug in it for a clean out then with the bull head facing up ran to another tee bull head facing horizontal and connecting the washing machine using a trap the tee then connected to a vent pipe but now instead of the sink overflowing the washer won't drain without the pvc pipe overflowing

Hi JDgriffith18:

I'm thinking it may be a good idea to SNAKE the drain line using a medium cable machine... see picture. You can rent these from almost any rental store. Purchase some leather gloves and safety glasses and see if you can snake the drain...

Let me know if you have any questions.

MARK

I took a snake and snaked it for about 35 feet it doesn't really feel like its stopped up or really has and build up so I went under the house and traced it out it is a 1-1/2 galv. Pipe that enters the crawl space and appears to have 2 sinks and now the washer on it now and everything is 1-1/2 pipe even the new pvc pipe

1.5" IS EXTREMELY SMALL TO HAVE ALL YOU MENTION HERE...BUT IT WORKED BEFORE...HUH? 2" is minimum recommendation for most washing machines today. Is this a NEW washing machine?

I'm betting that the galvanized pipe connects into a cast iron pipe somewhere and I'm also betting that the clog will be at the junction where the galvanized joins the cast iron. Here, if clogged, this area is famous for problems as dissimilar metals can cause an "electrolytic deposit" of minerals that cause the pipe to get choked down to damn near 3/4"...

What happens if you run a hose down the drain? If it backs up.. you may have to snake further OR cut into the galvi. Pipe at a place that is closer to the cast iron/galvi. Junction and snake from there. You can use a shielded clamp (see picture) to rejoin the pipes if needed.

Check for the junction I talked about... best case you can cut the pipe about 6 inches from where it joins the cast iron and use a hammer and long screwdriver to clean out the build up. Sometimes a snake simply cannot budge these type blockages... ;)

Let me know what you think...

MARK

The drain line does go under the house and runs about 50 feet and ties into what appears to be 4 in cast iron sewer drain line which is just above the dirt if I were to run a separate drain line from the washing machine to the sewer what kind of touble is involved with tieing into the cast is it OK to do this and will I need a trap and a vent in the new line if I did run that route

Nothing about the setup or equipment has changed just the sink fills with water now I am thinking about capping off the washer tie in and just letting whatevers on that line remain and run a new one for the washer

OK...

First, I would cut into the pipe where it joins the cast iron... see what you find. If needed, use screwdriver and hammer to open the pipe to full open. That may get you up and running again.

If that doesn't work and you decide to repipe this then you need a 2" drain line, a 2" ptrap and an 1.5" vent. You should install cleanouts at all major changes of direction and close to where you connect into the cast iron.

Connecting into cast iron is a bit involved, but with basic tools it is something we do all the time so glad to talk you through if you want.

Let me know.

OK thanks for your time I need to get back over there and take another look and really figure out what's up I will def. check all the things you told me again and see what turns up