I just laid porcelain tile in my basement bathroom and I set the tile right up to the drain pipe for the toilet coming up through the concrete. Now I'm hearing that I should have chiseled out the concrete around the pipe so that the closet flange could be glued down over the pipe. Don't they make a flange that goes down inside the drain pipe instead of outside and are there any big problems with using it?
Also, the floor was somewhat unlevel right by the drain pipe and I have a feeling the toilet won't sit flush to the tile all the way around. What's the best way to make the toilet set solidly on the tile so it won't rock at all? Shims of some kind?
Thanks in advance. I always get good answers here.

Hi Dave... been awhile. Hope all is good!

What size pipe? They do make a TWIST AND SET flange that fits inside the pipe... see picture. These are sold at home depot or local plumbing supply house.

You still need to secure the flange through the tile... ;) Let us know if need more info...

To balance the toilet they make PLASTIC toilet shims... see picture. ALso available at home depot or plumbing supply house...

MARK

What size is the toilet stup up pipe, 3 or 4 inch? If 4 then you can use a twist and set, which does go inside of pipe. If 3, then still same answer, but I have never used a 3. I believe it was ballengerb that said he has used three inch twist and set with no problems. I would agree (after thinking about it) that there would be no problem with these. Just cut pipe level with floor and inset flange.. As far as leveling toilet. There are a few ways. Caulking with shims, or grouting with shims, or,, plaster of paris has worked well for me. Hope this helps. Also, make sure to anchor closet flange with hilti type concrete anchors.

Mark beat me. Sorry.

Nice to see we agree... Dave should have no issues knowing what to do... :)

Massplumber, long time no see. Thanks, I'll look for one of them. I have a bit to drill through the tile and then I can use a regular masonry bit and drill a 3/16" hole and use Tapcon screws to anchor the flange. At least that's what I was planning on. Do you recommend a specific wax ring?

I'm a fan of wax rings with plastic sleeve... ;)... see picture. Use 5/16" closet bolts... best overall. A regular masonary bit should get through the tile... unless porcelain tile?

No fighting over me guys, I have plenty of questions to go around. :) It's a 4" pipe by the way. To set the toilet with grout or caulk and shims, do I level it and then caulk/grout around the base?

Yep, exactly. Just make sure to allow time for caulk, or grout to fully cure before using toilet..

Yes, it's porcelain tile. Ok, 5/16" it is. Thanks

Me and Lee (mygirlsdad) are friends. We never compete.. only compliment each other and a few others around here. Combined we have 4-5 guys that really make for a well-rounded discussion on any topic of plumbing... except maybe power showers... ;)... we are still lost on that subject... LOL!

Keep us posted Dave!

MARK

I also agree with Mark about the ring with sleeve. As far as brands go, they are all the same. I use hercules, but that's just because that's what my boss orders.

Me and Lee (mygirlsdad) are friends. We never compete..only compliment each other and a few others around here. Combined we have 4-5 guys that really make for a well-rounded discussion on any topic of plumbing...except maybe power showers...;)...we are still lost on that subject...LOL!

Keep us posted Dave!

MARK

Yep. And I'm still wondering about that power shower myself. I couldn't even bring myself to answer on that one.

So, no PVC glue required using this style flange?

Mark, I gathered that you two were friends. I was kidding. You guys make me feel much more confident about these plumbing jobs. You make it all sound so easy. It's good to get advice from guys so knowledgeable.

Correct. No glues or cleaners necessary.

I think I like the caulk and shims idea better. I'm not sure how I would get the grout into the gap as well as the caulk.
Can I get the plastic shims from Lowe's or HD?

I agree Dave. Yes you should be able to get the shims at either of these places.

I have seen where the tile layer will use the same grout on toiler bowl base as he did on tile. Looks nice, but it would definitely be easier to use the caulking, and will work just as well.

You guys are so quick and you're editing your previous posts too so I apologize for asking questions that you've already answered.

I'd be afraid the grout would break apart or crumble eventually.

No problem. You should be set. Let us know how things turn out. Good luck. Take care. Im off to bed for the night.

One last thing. The toilets we have in the rest of the house seem too short. 15" to the top of the bowl. Any recommendations on toilet choice / features?

Most new toilets flush pretty well. I have found TOTO toilets to be a little ahead of the game when it comes to a good flush. As far as height goes, you will want to look for a highrise toilet(ada complient, also known as handicap toilet) standard toilet measures about 15 to top of bowl, handicap measures about 17 to bowl. The highrise toilet is going to cost a bit more(roughly 100 buck or so depending on what make and style you want). LIke I said, most new toilets are pretty much equal, just find one that you like the looks and height of and has the right price tag on it, and go with it. However, I would look into toto toilets online and see what you think of them. I have had great luck with them(cost a little more). Never had a complaint on one yet. They just seem to flush so much better than the rest. Other than that, Gerber, American standard, Pro flow, etc etc, seem to work just fine.

Guys, if you're still listening, I was at HD today and they had what looked like the Twist and Set you guys posted photos of. Do you slide it down inside the 4" drain pipe then tighten some stainless bolts to draw the bottom piece up and squeeze the rubber seal out against the pipe? They also had one that just had a rubber lip that sealed against the inside of the pipe-no bolts. Which one is the best?

I would recommend the first one with the stainless bolts.

I'm also a fan of the type with SSbolts... :)

You install exactly as you said!

Thanks guys.

Turns out they had a flange at HD that glues inside 4" PVC pipe. It worked out real well. The toilet install went smooth except I've got a slow leak where the satin nickel pipe nipple screws into the copper adaptor on the copper pipe in the wall. I cab barely get a wrench on the fitting but I need to take it apart and use plenty of teflon pipe dope to help it seal up.

Glad things are going smoothly(other than the small leak). Good job, you are all but finished now.

I guess I should have done more research on the configuration of the plumbing as far as where the water for the toilet comes out of the wall. I put it to the right of the toilet so it would less visible. I had to use a 20" hose since 12" was a bit too short. Also the vanity plumbing ended up not centered on where the vanity light is, etc. Live and learn I guess. Now I need to find a 48" vanity that has plenty of room in the back for plumbing to come through.

Happens all the time, just get that 48"(make sure drawers in vanity will not affect repiping of lines in cabinet).

I guess I should have done more research on the configuration of the plumbing as far as where the water for the toilet comes out of the wall. I put it to the right of the toilet so it would less visible. I had to use a 20" hose since 12" was a bit too short. also the vanity plumbing ended up not centered on where the vanity light is, etc. Live and learn I guess. Now I need to find a 48" vanity that has plenty of room in the back for plumbing to come through.

Oooops... Yes, incoming water for toilet should be on the left. But the way you have it should work just fine... it just doesn't look right.

Select cabinet so the drawers don't interfere with plumbing. If you are getting 48" cabinet than you should get cabinet with following configuration:

1. 12" drawers on left, 24" doors in the middle and another 12" drawers on right.
2. Doors only, no drawers
3. Drawers on one side only - but not to exceed 16" in width

Now I can't get this darn small leak to stop. It appears that it's leaking between the sweated on copper threaded fiiting and the brushed nickel nipple threaded into it. I've put plenty of pipe dope on it and got it pretty snug. Guess I might try a different nipple. Anyone have any good ideas for stopping a leak. I can barely get a wrench on the copper fiiting in the wall to hold it while I tighten the nipple.

Dave... use about 4-5 wraps of TEFLON TAPE (clockwise) on the threads and then try to re-install the nipple (or use new nipple)... that should fix this up nicely!

Hold against yourself as best you can and tighten the nipple... don't overtighten. This will work.

MARK

Mark, I bought a new nipple and I'll try the teflon tape. I always kind of considered the teflon paste thread sealant better than the tape at sealing but I've tried that now I'll try the tape. Thanks for the info.

Both pipe dope and teflon tape are lubricants to make the treads seal against themselves better. I think the tape will help solve the problem you are having, and you won't have to tighten the nipple nearly as tight with the tape(also found it seals l little better than dope,for leaky problems.) Good luck.

Lee, I just have to wait and see now. I just put it together again with about 4 wraps of tape. So far no leak. New nipple too though.

Yes, it's the tapered threads that seal against each other but some people think the tape or dope actually seals the joint. They are both just teflon lube.