Hi:

I am trying to fix a leaky compression faucet. I have turned off the shut off valve for the cold water under the sink so the when the handle for the cold water of the compression faucet is turned, there is no water as expected.

However, even if I turn off the shut off valve for the hot water under the sink, I still get water when the handle for the hot water of the compression faucet is turned! Why is this? BTW, this shut off valve is leaking as well so I will be repairing this. But is it possible that you turn off the shut off valve yet is sends water up to the sink? I am sure I am turning it off completely.

Please reply.

Thanks,
KK

Follow up question to my previous question:

I have repaired the non-working hot shut off valve so it no longer leaks. Now I have to fix the hot handle of the compression faucet, but can I work on it without switching off the hot water supply since the hot shut off valve does not seem to be working?

Follow up question to my previous question:

I have repaired the non-working hot shut off valve so it no longer leaks. Now I have to fix the hot handle of the compression faucet, but can I work on it without switching off the hot water supply since the hot shut off valve does not seem to be working?
If you want to open up the valve to work on it you'll have to shut the hot water off. This can be done in one of two places. (1) At the cold water inlet to the water heater or (2) at the outside house shut off.
Good luck, Tom

Thanks, Tom, for your reply.

But is it possibe for the shut off valve to behave the way it is behaving? That is, even when it is turned off completey, it still lets in water? I am convinced I have turned it off completely...

Thanks,
KK

Thanks, Tom, for your reply.

But is it possibe for the shut off valve to behave the way it is behaving? That is, even when it is turned off completey, it still lets in water? I am convinced I have turned it off completely...

Thanks,
KK

Yes, if the washer has disintegrated and no longer seals on the seat it will not shut off. Regards, tom

Yes, if the washer has disintegrated and no longer seals on the seat it will not shut off. regards, tom

Great! So I wasn't imagining things! :-) And now the all-important question, Tom: How do I fix this non-working shut off valve problem?

Regards,
KK

I'm assuming you're referring to the hot water side of your kitchen sink faucet, (see image).
Shut the water off to the hot side and remove the handle/knob. Unscrew the bonnet packing nut and unscrew the stem and washer assembly. You may now replace the washer. A few more things. Check the seat by running your finger nail around the seat. If it's rough or nicked, replace it. Now place a pan over the faucet to reduce splash and turn on the hot water shut off for a minute to flush out the hot water supply. Now you can reassemble and test. Good luck, Tom

I'm assuming you're referring to the hot water side of your kitchen sink faucet, (see image).
Shut the water off to the hot side and remove the handle/knob. Unscrew the bonnet packing nut and unscrew the stem and washer assembly. You may now replace the washer. A few more things. Check the seat by running your finger nail around the seat. If it's rough or nicked, replace it. Now place a pan over the faucet to reduce splash and turn on the hot water shut off for a minute to flush out the hot water supply. Now you can reassemble and test. good luck, Tom

Thanks for your reply, Tom. My mistake for not being precise. I can fix the "hot water side of your kitchen sink faucet". It's the shut off valve for the hot water udner the sink that I want to fix. Even when it is turned off completey, it still lets in water up to the kitchen sink faucet. You replied saying it's possible if the washer has disintegrated. So how do I fix the non-working shut off valve?

KK

". It's the shut off valve for the hot water udner the sink that I want to fix."

Why bother? Simply replace the angle stop. They are cheap and easy to change. Cheers, Tom

". It's the shut off valve for the hot water udner the sink that I want to fix."

Why bother? Simply replace the angle stop. They are cheap and easy to change. Cheers, Tom

Hi Tom:

I went to HD to buy an angle stop as you suggested and the store guy asked me if the shut off valve is compression fitting or iron-pipe fitting!! I have no idea what I have so can you let me know how I can find that out? If it helps, the sink above is a compression faucet.

Where can I get good instructions to replace the shut off valve? My plumbing experience is basic (tho' I did successfully replace the compression faucet last week) and my tools are limited, so can you tell me whether I should be even venturing to replace the shut off valve?

Thanks,
KK

Replacing a angle stop's even easier then installing a compression faucet.
The two types of angle stops are compression, (the one in my preceding post and a threaded angle stop.(see image). Tell me which one you have and I'll walk you through changing it out. Regards, Tom

My problem is similar to this, I turned off the water to the house because the lines under my bathroom sink do not have valves (replacing these). However, when the lines in completely shut off the hot water stop runinng but I still have a good amount of cold water still running through the lines, it is diminished so I know the shut off valve is doing something. With the amount of water running through the lines it is impossible to get a good seal on the solder so I need any help I can on this quick.

I asked this question in another thread but I need an answer quick and it may not get any looks because it was in a different topic. I turned off the water to the house because the lines under my bathroom sink do not have valves (replacing these). However, when the line is completely shut off the hot water stops runinng but I still have a good amount of cold water still running through the lines, it is diminished so I know the shut off valve is doing something. With the amount of water running through the lines it is impossible to get a good seal on the solder so I need any help I can on this quick.

That's OK Dustin, I merged the posts. In addition to the house shut off you also have a shut off at the water meter or if you're on a pump there should be one on the supply line. Let me know if you can't find it. Regards, Tom

OK, well the utility company was SUPPOSED to be sending someone out, but that was 2 hours ago and nothing. I see that there is a water access lid at the property line of my neighbor's and my house, but I don't know if it is ours or theirs. Where would the water meter usually be? Thanks for the quick reply.

OK, well the utility company was SUPPOSED to be sending someone out, but that was 2 hours ago and nothing. I see that there is a water access lid at the property line of my neighbor's and my house, but I don't know if it is ours or theirs. Where would the water meter usually be? Thanks for the quick reply.

To ascertain which meter's yours, open up a outside hose bib and look at the meters. Yours will be the one that's running. Regards, Tom

Got it, the water guy came out so now I know exactly where my water valve is. Oh, and I was misinformed on my valves I was installing anyway, they were compression fittings but the guy at Home Depot told me I needed to solder them when all I had to do was tighten :mad: Got everything working, thanks for the help.

Hi Tom:

Just got back from a much-needed vacation so I couldn't continue our discussion on the shut-off valve. I am attaching an image of how my shut-off valve looks. Can you tell me which one it is and the steps for replacing it?

Note that currently I have steel pipes going from my shut-off valve to the new compression faucet. I am planning on replacing these steel pipes as well with the braided pipes.

Thanks,
KK

Your picture's too dark to make out details. Can you lighten it up? Howeve, if you go back and look at the image4s of the angle stops I've posted in this thread you should see the angle stop that you have. Thanks, Tom

Your picture's too dark to make out details. Can you lighten it up? Howeve, if you go back and look at the image4s of the angle stops I've posted in this thread you should see the angle stop that you have. Thanks, Tom

Hi Tom:

Apologies for the dark pic. I just can't seem to be able to find the difference between the two shut-off valves that you have. I am attaching a new image.

Thanks,
KK

Your picture's too dark to make out details. Can you lighten it up? Howeve, if you go back and look at the image4s of the angle stops I've posted in this thread you should see the angle stop that you have. Thanks, Tom

Sorry about the dark pic. Here's the new pic of my shut-off valve.

Regards,
KK

You have a 1/2" female thread by 1/4" compression angle stop. Do you wish to repair or replace? Tom

You have a 1/2" female thread by 1/4" compression angle stop. Do you wish to repair or replace? Tom


Replace it since the washer seems to have disintergrated. Even when I shut it off, the hot water still flows from the faucet. The other shut-off valve for cold water works fine.

Thanks,
KK

First turn the water off at the house shut off. Open a faucet to relieve pressure. Unscrew the 1/4" compression nut. Now take two wrenches. put one on the galvanized nipple on the right hand side and the other on the back part of the angle stop on the left. Now while holding back on the nipple with your wrench turn the angle stop out counterclockwise with the other. Do not let the nipple turn. Unscrew and remove the old angle stop.
You should now be ready to install the new angle stop. Wrap the nipples threads with a few turns of Teflon Tape. Now comes the tricky part Tighten the angle stop till you're almost through but just before you reach the vertical guide the 1/4" chrome supply into the male 1/4" thread. Now finish turning the stop up until the 1/4"threads catch and you can tighten the1/4" compression nut. Turn the water on and test for leaks. Good luck. Tom

First turn the water off at the house shut off. Open a faucet to relieve pressure. Unscrew the 1/4" compression nut. Now take two wrenches. put one on the galvanized nipple on the right hand side and the other on the back part of the angle stop on the left. Now while holding back on the nipple with your wrench turn the angle stop out counterclockwise with the other. Do not let the nipple turn. Unscrew and remove the old angle stop.
You should now be ready to install the new angle stop. Wrap the nipples threads with a few turns of Teflon Tape. Now comes the tricky part Tighten the angle stop till you're almost through but just before you reach the vertical guide the 1/4" chrome supply into the male 1/4" thread. Now finish turning the stop up until the 1/4"threads catch and you can tighten the1/4" compression nut. Turn the water on and test for leaks. Good luck. Tom

Hi Tom:

Thanks so much for your detailed reply. Somehow, replacing this shut-off valve is looking a lot more complicated than replacing the compression faucet. Since I have sub-par plumbing skills (and limited tools), I think I will leave the shut-off valve the way it is.

So if I don't replace the shut-off valve and only try to replace the stainless steel pipes with braided pipes, is this as simple as removing the nuts at both the ends of the existing stainless steel pipes (one at the shut-off valve and the other at the compression faucet), and using the braided pipe instead of the existing stainless steel pipe? If so, what would be the specs on the braided pipe that I need? Also, is a wrench enough for the job?

Regards,
KK

Hi Tom:

Just checking if you had a reply for my previous post. Your reply will be appreciated as always.

Regards,
KK

Hi:

I am trying to fix a leaky compression faucet. I have turned off the shut off valve for the cold water under the sink so the when the handle for the cold water of the compression faucet is turned, there is no water as expected.

However, even if I turn off the shut off valve for the hot water under the sink, I still get water when the handle for the hot water of the compression faucet is turned! Why is this? BTW, this shut off valve is leaking as well so I will be repairing this. But is it possible that you turn off the shut off valve yet is sends water up to the sink? I am sure I am turning it off completely.

Please reply.

Thanks,
KK
Yes it is possible and very likely that your valves under the sink are bad. Generally they only have thin rubber washers inside that act as the seal to shut off the water. To fix:
Shut off valves down below in basement ceiling, check faucet to see if water is in fact off, the replace the valves under sink. If there are no valves down below, you can shut main valve off for whole house. That will shut off hot and cold

Hi Tom:

Just checking if you had a reply for my previous post. Your reply will be appreciated as always.


Assuming your faucet, not the angle stop, is standard, you should be able to replace the ridgid chrome supply tube with a 1/2"x3/8"x20" braided supply with nothing more than a crescent wrench.

Hey Fellas,

Is it possible to have a copper nipple instead of a metal nipple? I'm looking at my angle stop and it doesn't have a compression nut.

Thanks a bunch.

Hi EATANDTRAVEL...

Yes, it's possible to have a copper extension tube on a shutoff... like in my picture below:

This is a SWEAT stop that gets soldered on to install and to remove.

Is this what you are talking about? If so, do you need to know how to take it off and install a new one? IS yours leaking?

The compression nut is the small nut on top that feeds the toilet or lavatory faucet.

Let us know more...

Thanks... MARK

you have 1/2" IP by 3/8 comp. angle stop. Remove it. Buy 1/2"IP x 1/2" IP angle stop. Use 1/2" water supply. You can get it in Home Depot.

massplumber2008,

I was under the impression that you had to have a metal nipple. My set up is jut like the kutra's pictures but mine has a copper nipple. I thought that was weird.



Thanks for your help.

No, the sink connector can be flex. It is lot easier to install and is hand-tight.

OH... no not weird at all E&T...

That would be a brass nipple and is the same as the nipple above but the nipple above is chrome plated is all...

All threaded water pipes are galvanized or brass. Again, most of the brass ones used in finish work are chrome plated.

Let me know if you have any more questions...

MILO....Eatandtravel hijacked an old thread....so need to read his post to understand what we are talking about...;) Have a good day!

MARK

massplumber2008,

Thanks a bunch again.