Hi There,

We've been upgrading our plumbing, and we accidentally broke a galvanized steel pipe off in the concrete floor. This drain is in the laundry room an is used by the washing machine, and a sink.

Do I need to Jackhammer up the surrounding area? And if so how much do I need to remove. We're using ABS above, should we use a coupling once we have enough galvanized pipe to grab?

Here are the photos, thanks for your time!

Nick

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3656/3301835523_a8f9992be8.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3572/3302668638_fef0b7225e.jpg?v=0

Depending on your local code... you can use a hammer and chisle to remove enough concrete to use a "Fernco" coupler (aval at home improv. Stores). They come in different sizes and you want to get one that fits your metal pipe on one end and your ABS on the other. Don't forget to put in a clean out 'Y' and tighten the clamps.

Actually, that looks like cast iron. Galvanized would not fracture that cleanly.

Example:

Fernco No Hub Coupling, fernco, fernco no hub coupling, fernco coupling, fernco couplings, No Hub Connect Coupling, No Hub Flexible Coupling, No Hub Shielded Coupling | Fernco (http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/shielded-couplings/no-hub-couplings)

You can use an offset screwdriver to tighten.

That pipe won't take impacts well, so I'd be really careful.

I have no idea if a core drill would help of not. Amazon.com: 4" Concrete Core Drill Z-Z80: Home Improvement (http://www.amazon.com/4-Concrete-Core-Drill-Z-Z80/dp/B000MQAGWY)

Nick, it is a bad break, indeed. As other Experts suggested, you have to rent a chipping hammer and to remove enough concrete so you can slip on Shielded Coupling. Flex Seal will not do. Then, of course, you have to cut off that broken Y. If the gal-pipe is now short, you need to insert piece of pipe to fill-in the void after the Y.

Now, can you tell us how it got broken ?

Thanks everyone, fantastic advice. This is what I suspected :( but now that I've come to terms with it, I'm in repair mode.

Interesting, it probably is cast iron... I just assumed is was galvanized as all the other pipes were.

Using a Shield coupling and chipping away at it carefully sounds like my best option. I was planning on putting in a new clean-out Y in ABS anyway (I'm putting them in above every drain).

As to how I broke it... I had started two days ago with PB B'laster on the threads above the Y. It was pretty much rusted solid. I was 'lightly' tapping on the galvanized section when it fractured.

Oooops !

Start with the repair. If you need any help , drop by. Will guide you through !

... Another question:

Lets say I chip away an ~8"x8" square hole 4 inches deep around the pipe.

Do fill the hole around the coupling with concrete?

Thanks!

Yes, fill in the hole with light-weight concrete.

Fantastic thank you!

I wouls see if your local plumbing supply has what they call a husky clamp and put that on instead of a fernco ferncos do not hold up well in concrete being they are rubber the husky clamp has metal made for undergrond

There are various varieties of Fernco's. Fernco is a brand name. Check out Fernco Couplings, Flexible Couplings, Flexible Pipe Connectors, Fernco Fitting, Shielded Couplings, Fernco Donut, Pro-Flex Coupling, Large Diameter Couplings, Sewer, Drain, Waste, Plumbing Flexible Couplings, Plumbing Pipe Leak Repair | Fernco (http://www.fernco.com).

Am I looking at the hub of a 2" piece of cast iron? If so, there's no need to chip out anything. Simply yarn and caulk in a piece of, cast iron, galvanized, copper ** or**
If you use lead wool, caulk in a PVC raiser. Anyone find fault with that? Good luck, Tom

Am I looking at the hub of a 2" piece of cast iron? If so, there's no need to chip out anything. Simply yarn and caulk in a piece of, cast iron, galvanized, copper ** or**
if you use lead wool, caulk in a PVC raiser. Anyone find fault with that? Good luck, Tom

Really? Could you break it down into layman's terms. What do you mean by "yarn" and what kind of Caulk?. thanks!

Here's where I'm at with the chipping out the surrounding area... in case that's the best route...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3622/3315762948_e661cb4919.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3483/3315763110_dee65c7522.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3308/3315763498_fb44285ae3.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3457/3315763274_882560d7b0.jpg?v=0

Is this enough lip to attach the fitting or should I carefully go down another 4 inches and cut this thicker (knuckle) section off?

Thanks!
Nick

It should be enough. Insert the other pipe into it, tighten it up and kind of shake with it. If it feels solid, it is fine. If you'll notice noticeable weak spot in that coupling, dig deeper and cut off the hub.

Awesome. Thank you!