Still scratching my head on this one. Everything appears to be working fine on my furnace, except that the ignitor is not getting juice to glow orange/white, hence the gas is not igniting? I disconnected the ignitor harness from the control board, ran the test sequence again, and determined that I wasn't getting 120 volts (no voltage) across the two leads on the control board during the 17 second warmup period. I actually tested for voltage during the entire test procedure, because I'm not sure as to what step the 17 second warmup process occurs. The trouble shooting guide appears to be saying that I need to change the control board. I'm not convinced of this step, yet. Is there anything else I can do, like test a relay (don't know where it would be and how?). I guess I'm trying to figure out why I'm not seeing 120 volts across the two leads. Getting cold now...

I've got a diagram of the control board from the manual; it's not bad, but it doesn't label all the components of the control board. Anyone know where I can get a detailed diagram? Any other suggestions to diagnose the problem further?

Is it possible (I know it is but is it recommended) to temporarily give the hot surface ignitor 120 volts so that I can get some heat in my house? Perhaps temporary lighting the gas manually? I know its not recommended, but just until I get my furnace fixed.

Is it possible (I know it is but is it recommended) to temporarily give the hot surface ignitor 120 volts so that I can get some heat in my house? Perhaps temporary lighting the gas manually? I know its not recommended, but just until I get my furnace fixed.

Trying that would be a BIG NO NO.

Bite the bullet and buy the board since your testing proved it defective.

Check Ebay for a deal.

You didn't post the serial number, so age of unit is undetermined. The new circuit board will likely be a kit comprised of the board, adapter harness, and new wiring diagram/fault code labels. Follow instructions closely to assure a successful transplant.

Very true. Many of the new boards do come with all the extras you need to convert from the original to the new style. If you get a new board and have a problem with the hookup just post on this thread and KC13 or I will help you out. I am sure KC13 has changed more of those old boards out than I have.

We protect all our new and old testing equipment and circuit boards with one of the following products. At the university we found that most circuit board and other electrical connections eventually caused problems which in turn increased the resistance of the connections which in turn caused some failures to components. Using Megger and other tests we found that we could eliminate all electrical connection problems by pretreating or disassembly and treating with the following products.

DeoxIT® (http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f)

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Or the real bargain

CRC-2-26 for the cleaner at Home depot.

Possible flame sensor