I'm trying to learn how to do tha ecu/ecm test but I have no idea how to do it...

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/dustyboner/1-14.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/dustyboner/2-12.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa147/dustyboner/3-4.jpg

Hey thanks a lot

When I was connecting the 2P Service Check Connector with a jumper and turning the Ignition on, the Check Engine Light was on but did not blink.
Do you think the ECU in my 1993 Hoda Civic DX is brocken?

Drcao1, if the Check Engine Light stays on when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the ECU has likely failed. This is common on older Hondas.

TxGreaseMonkey:
I have disconnected old ECU from its harness and plan to connect a new ECU with the harness.
Before the connection, what should I check from the harness to provent the new ECU from darmage?

Ensure that you are free of any static electricity, prior to touching the new ECM; therefore, properly ground yourself. Spray the old connectors with WD-40, which should help assembly.

TxGreaseMonkey:

I followed your instruction and istalled a new remanufactured ECU(ECM). The engine starts working now. But shift stuck at park(automatic shift car). If insert a car key in unlock slot,the shift is able to moved to R, N and D4... easy and the car can be drived. If the shift moves back to Park, it could not be moved again.
What is wrong with my car? If the new ECU should be re-set? How to re-set it?

Thank you for your attetion and kind helps.

With Best Regards

Automatic Transmission Interlock System

Honda automatic transmissions are equipped with the following devices to prevent inadvertent shifting:
. Automatic transmission selector with shift lock.
. Key cylinder with interlocked ignition key.

Shift Lock System:

The shift lock system prevents the shift lever from moving to Reverse or D4 from the Park position, unless the brake pedal is depressed and the accelerator is in its rest position.

Note:
. The shift lever cannot be shifted when the brake pedal and the accelerator are stepped on at the same time.
. In case of system malfunction, the shift lever can be released by pushing a key into the release slot near the shift lever.

Key Interlock System:

The ignition key cannot be removed from the ignition switch, unless the shift lever is in Park. When the shift lever is in any position other than Park, a solenoid is activated, making it impossible for the key to be removed, until the shift lever is moved to Park.

Troubleshooting:

If you are experiencing problems, particularly in cold weather, check for a faulty automatic transmission gear position switch (most likely). Next, check for a possible faulty steering lock assembly (key interlock solenoid and key interlock switch).

Automatic Transmission Gear Position Switch Replacement:

1. Remove console and disconnect 14-P connector from switch.
2. Remove both console switch mounting nuts.
3. Position switch slider to "Neutral."
4. Move shift lever to "Neutral," then slip switch into position.
5. Attach switch with both nuts.
6. Test switch in Park and Neutral positions of shift lever. Engine should start, when shift lever is in Neutral (anywhere in the range of free play).
7. Connect 14-P connector, clamp harness, and install console.

Also, take a test light or multi-meter and check all under hood and under dash fuses. These fuses can affect power going to the 8-P connector and the interlock control unit. Check for good contact between the connector and socket terminals. If the problem remains, you may want to replace the interlock control unit, which is located near the left kick panel (close to the main relay). These are sophisticated systems that can sometimes challenge the best technicians.

After you get everything working properly, be sure to change the transmission fluid--3 quarts of Honda Z-1 ATF.

After you get everything working properly, be sure to change the transmission fluid--3 quarts of Honda Z-1 ATF.

TxGreaseMonkey:

Is 'automatic transmission gear switch' 'ignition switch'? Where it is in car?

Remove the center console. You may need to buy a Haynes Manual.

Automatic Transmission Interlock System

Honda automatic transmissions are equipped with the following devices to prevent inadvertent shifting:
. Automatic transmission selector with shift lock.
. Key cylinder with interlocked ignition key.

Shift Lock System:

The shift lock system prevents the shift lever from moving to Reverse or D4 from the Park position, unless the brake pedal is depressed and the accelerator is in its rest position.

Note:
. The shift lever cannot be shifted when the brake pedal and the accelerator are stepped on at the same time.
. In case of system malfunction, the shift lever can be released by pushing a key into the release slot near the shift lever.

Key Interlock System:

The ignition key cannot be removed from the ignition switch, unless the shift lever is in Park. When the shift lever is in any position other than Park, a solenoid is activated, making it impossible for the key to be removed, until the shift lever is moved to Park.

Troubleshooting:

If you are experiencing problems, particularly in cold weather, check for a faulty automatic transmission gear position switch (most likely). Next, check for a possible faulty steering lock assembly (key interlock solenoid and key interlock switch).

Automatic Transmission Gear Position Switch Replacement:

1. Remove console and disconnect 14-P connector from switch.
2. Remove both console switch mounting nuts.
3. Position switch slider to "Neutral."
4. Move shift lever to "Neutral," then slip switch into position.
5. Attach switch with both nuts.
6. Test switch in Park and Neutral positions of shift lever. Engine should start, when shift lever is in Neutral (anywhere in the range of free play).
7. Connect 14-P connector, clamp harness, and install console.

Also, take a test light or multi-meter and check all under hood and under dash fuses. These fuses can affect power going to the 8-P connector and the interlock control unit. Check for good contact between the connector and socket terminals. If the problem remains, you may want to replace the interlock control unit, which is located near the left kick panel (close to the main relay). These are sophisticated systems that can sometimes challenge the best technicians.

TxGreaseMonky:

Is the " Autometic Transmission Gear Switch" " Neutral Safty Switch" ?
If the two names are for the same parts?

Thank you for your help.

With Best Regards

A/T Gear Position Switch or Neutral Position Switch.

A/T Gear Position Switch or Neutral Position Switch.

How to check an old Neutral safety switch is faulty?

Check continuity and check adjustment.

Check continuity and check adjustment.

TxGreaseMonkey;

I disconncted the old neutral savety switch from 14P connector and measured OM between two bigest pins of the switch. The OM was 0 at Park and Neutrol positions and infinity at R and D4 positions. Do you think the switch is bad?
By the way, I could not find 'Key interlock solenoid" and "Key interlock switch" in both Autozon and Advace Aotoparts. If the two parts have other names?

Thank you for your kind helps

With Best Regards

From afar, I hesitate to say yes--I defer to your judgment.

From afar, I hesitate to say yes--I defer to your judgment.

I will order a new neutral safety switch for the replacement.
Thank you for your immediate response and kind help.

With Best Regards

It certainly won't hurt.

It certainly won't hurt.

TxGreaseMonkey

1. I checked the neutral safety switch with a multimeter again, its continuty at any positions, P,R,N,D4,D3,D2an D1, is good.
2. There is a selenoid on the left side of the shift lever. It controls the locking of shifter lever at P position. When I was starting engine at P position, the selenoid did not withdraw a lock lever. I checked the continuty of the selenoid coil, it is good but there almiost no voltage goes to the selenoid when engine is starting.
3. I think there should another switch connected with the selenoid in the car which controls selenoid function when the engine is starting. What is the name of the switch? Where is it in 93 Honda Civic Dx?
4. What is your point for the next step?

Thank you for your attetion and helps.

With Best Regards

I had the same problem years ago. I suggest you check and see if your Brake light switch. If you look at the rear of your car and your brake lights are on as if your were braking, that means your brake light switch is most likely the problem.

Check the fuse under the hood and see if the Hazards fuse is blown. If you have a blown fuse, then one of your brake light socket has been damage from the heat of the brake light bulb. This happen because the brake light switch which is located on the brake peddle has cause the light to stay on constently and has melted the bulb socket causing a ground short.

Too fix the problem: get a nickel or quarter and cazy glue it to your brake peddle's arm so the brake light switch has something to rest on once you take your foot off the brake peddle. When you inspect the brake light switch you will see that a pin extending from the switch suppose to rest on the brake paddle's arm but there is nothing there but a hole. The plastics insert that belong there on the brake peddle's arm is missing and that prevent the brake lights from turning off.

Please let us know if this was your problem.