House is at 9000 elev. In Colorado. Tenant says he can do something to make the pressure tank keep a charge for about month at a time. Tank is orig to house built 1995.

1. I have an estimate for replacing everything, but wonder can I just replace the full fitting kit and see if the tank works then? 2. Or, are there key items on the fitting list that I can start with that might likely be the problem rather than all fittings. 3. Are there any of the parts on the list that could be easily reused, and do not need replacement? Follow is the list of parts they wish to replace and some questions on some parts. The plumber’s total estimate was $480 for parts, $200 for labor to replace the total unit. I found the parts warranteed online through doitbest and I can save $175 if I purchase and provide them myself. The plumber would still install. Is this a good idea?

Parts list

--30 gal tank
--1” Tee
--40/60 switch (note, I found a kit with all the fittings together but it includes a 30/50 pressure switch--would this switch work, or do I need to get the 40/60 switch separately?)
--gauge ( he did not indicate psi—is 100 psi gauge enough or would I need 200?)
--1/2 drain (does this really need to be replaced?)
--1/2 pressure valve
--3/4 couplers -two

Lastly, how to maintain the tank? Is there anything we should be doing to it? How? And how often?

Thank you!

It sounds like you have a bladder tank and the bladder is ruptured. This allows the air in the tank to dissolve into the water and you end up with a tank full of water... no air... so the pump shortcycles. The tank needs to be replaced. It's not a bad idea to replace the switch while you're at it. The 50/30 switch will work fine... you can increase the pressure to on that switch to 60/40. I would think the other parts are being replaced on the theory that, while the plumber is there, he might as well put them on. Preventative medicine.

Pray to God that you never need a 200# gauge. Your new tank will be about halfway to the moon before the pressure reaches 200. (<: