Sorry about the huge thread started, but I wanted to give as much background info as possible. Thanks, Logan.

Background:
In a few years I will be finishing my basement. I live in lower New York so the temperature varies from season to season. My basement has cinder block walls and the concrete floor is only about 2" thick. I've had water problems in the past. In the Spring, under heavy rains and snow melt, moisture (not puddles) has collected in 3 of the 4 corners. When I first moved in the entire town was flooded and the shotty sump pump I had kept all but an 1/8" of water out of the basement. The neighbors said that was the first time in 40 years it has ever been like that.

I have installed a new, more powerful sump pump and a larger, correctly designed sump pit so now I only have moisture buildup in 1 of the 4 corners. I know that the problem with that last corner has a lot to do with the drainage of the closest gutter which I will also be fixing shortly. Before I finish the basement I will be digging up the inside perimeter of the basement to install weeping tile that feeds into the sump pump. I'm am 99% confident that this will solve my water problems.

Question:
I want to insulate the walls with 2" pink board. In a Mike Holmes video from YouTube, the floor is also insulated with pink board and a subfloor is screwed on top of it. With the background info I've given about water, should I insulate my floor the same way? Or should I use the DRIcore wooden tile subfloor that has the plastic underneath it?


Insulation Video:
YouTube - Best way to insulate a basement 800x600 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jSuWbdJy5A&feature=related)

DRIcore Tiles:
http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/HomeDepotCanada/images/catalog/4c71e354-9647-4fc3-8ba0-a6ab8ea1e4f0_4.jpg

I personally would address the drainage of the floor before any renovation is done at all.
2" thick floor is not really a concrete floor yet and is very substandard.
Truthfully I would break up the two inch concrete floor and do it right. I would make sure there is a min of 4" 2b clean stone as a sub base under the new min 3 1/2 inch concrete floor. In the new stone base I would install black perforated pipe about 3 foot O.C. and tie it in to a Big sump pit. With a backup sump pump set a bit higher than the first to go off on for the once in so many years to insure the $15,000 dollars or so finished basement can handle the big one coming next make sure there is a min of 6 mil plastic on top of the stone to stop moisture. The crucial point is where the concrete floor is against the basement walls. This is where you get the most wicking of moisture up into the stud wall and the problem starts there is solved. In basic construction the crushed stone is leveled with the block wall footer then above that is the concrete floor and the bottom of that is in contact with the actual floor. This is a direct contact of damp ground and footer to concrete floor to cause a capillary action. I would use a min of 1/2 to 1" rice mix stone on that footer ledge and the 6 ml on that and fold the 6 mll up against the block wall to finish conc floor height. This will help complete vapor barrier from the new concrete floor sucking in the moisture from that problem area. And what water that may get through the first mortared block course won't be damed up the the new concrete floor and can weep under the slab to 2b clean stone drain system
I know you don't want to hear this but 2" concrete floor is big No no and way under code for a habitual use.
On a side note this new exposed floor may need down the road a radon gas application and that would be the time to install it while the floor is up. A radon approved system can greatly raise the valve of the house knowing that new living space is up to top specks.
So buy having a sound floor that is now protected from moisture completely the dri core doesn't need to be there.
By the way the dricore is to allow the floor to breath and not let the transfer of moisture directly into the finish floor. I prefer the floor insulated and no air pockets for moisture to hang in and the thermal and density solves and also makes a thermal brake in it self and that alone stops the condensation from happening.
Sorry Logan as a builder I feel you are building a castle on top of sand. (2" conc)
If you DON"T solve the water problems there is no sense in spending a penny to finish off that basement!

Signed 21 Boat

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