Okay, so I wrote last time that I got a brand new fluidmaster system and I'm on my second flapper. Your advice was to have the plumber come back. I took the advice and had a plumber come in here to look at the toilet. He couldn't find anything wrong. So I just left it.

The toilet is still running. Sometimes every minute, sometimes every 10 or 20 minutes. The pipes that are underneath the toilet are in the garage. I happened to hear water dripping into them from the toilet. Last night I turned off the water and this morning when I turned it on, the toilet had to fill up all the way. This must mean I have a leak somewhere, right?

Please tell me what you think.

Yes, you have a leak. Did you change the flapper seat too? As an experiment, try adding a few drops of food coloring to the tank water and let it sit for about 30 minutes and then check the bowl. If the water is colored then the flapper or the flapper seat are bad. How far does the water come up on the stand pipe inside the tank? Also the fill hose that leads from the fill valve to the stand pipe could be drooping and causing the water to actually be siphoned out of the tank. All quick and easy checks.

I got a brand new fluidmaster system and I'm on my second flapper. Did this "brand new fluidmaster system" include a "brand new flush vaslve"? (see image) regards, tom

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Toilet running by it self is caused by a bad flapper or the tank water level is too high.

Check the "critical level" Mark at least an inch over the rim of the white overflow tube.

Check the tank water level, it should be at the mark in the tank, 1" below the rim of the over flow tube when the tank is filled and the ballcock shut down.

Feel around the flapper flat edge. If it's wavy or you feel rough spots replace the flapper,
The linkage between the flapper and the flush lever should have 1/4" play when the tank is filled. Also, check the small tube coming out of the top of the ballcock and make sure it's connected to the white overflow tube and draining water in to the tube.
If all the above is correct and still have problem then you will need to replace the flush valve as Speedball1 says, see the image below for info, good luck.

John

Yes, you have a leak. Did you change the flapper seat too? As an experiment, try adding a few drops of food coloring to the tank water and let it sit for about 30 minutes and then check the bowl. If the water is colored then the flapper or the flapper seat are bad. How far does the water come up on the stand pipe inside the tank? Also the fill hose that leads from the fill valve to the stand pipe could be drooping and causing the water to actually be siphoned out of the tank. All quick and easy checks.

Thanks for your reply. I've done the food coloring test and the next morning there was green water in my bowl. The water comes up about an inch below the pipe. The hose is not drooping. I'm hearing water dripping into a pipe in my garage that leads from the toilet. I'm thinking that is the cause of the leak and the constant running. Any idea what that means?

Did this "brand new fluidmaster system" include a "brand new flush vaslve"? (see image) regards, tom

No, it didn't. What do you suggest?

Now that you have done the food coloring and there is indication of the color in bowl it tells you that your flapper is leaking, sense you have changed the flapper now is time to change the whole flush valve assembly, good luck.

John

Things You'll Need to replace the flush valve;
Socket wrench
Flat-blade screwdriver
Hacksaw blade
Adjustable wrench
Groove-joint pliers
New flush valve
Pipe joint compound
Step1Start by shutting off the water, either at the main valve or at the shutoff valve beneath the toilet. Lift the lid from the tank, flush the toilet to drain the water from the tank and then sponge out any remaining water.
Step2Loosen the coupling nut that secures the water-supply tube to the fill-valve shank, and remove the tube. Reach under the tank, and using a socket wrench undo the tank bolts while back-holding the slotted bolt head using a flat-blade screwdriver.
Step3Use a hacksaw blade on the tank bolt if it won't break free, just remember to wrap the end of the blade you will be holding.
Step4Lift the tank off the bowl and turn it upside down on the floor in front of you. Remove the old flush valve's spud-nut washer.
Step5Loosen the spud nut using groove-joint pliers. The nut should break free easily this way.
Step6Install the new flush valve through the tank hole, and position the overflow tube to fit the fill tube on the fill valve.
Step7Thread the large spud nut onto the flush valve at the bottom of the tank, and tighten the nut with a spud wrench,(see image) until it squeaks at you.
Step8Fit the large rubber spud washer over the spud nut, and coat the washer with a generous layer of pipe joint compound.
Step9Install washers on the tank bolts, and coat them with pipe joint compound. Then insert the bolts through the tank and bowl and secure them firmly.
Step10Connect the flapper. Then reinstall the water supply tube, and turn the water back on. Watch the flapper operate through several flushes, and then make adjustments as needed.
Step11Check the bottom of the tank bolt for leaks, and continue to check them several times during the days to follow. Good luck and thank you for rating my answer. Tom

Hey thanks guys for all your help!! I really appreciate it. My husband read your answers and bought a new flapper with a weight that will keep the flapper down. It works!!
Thanks again. :-)))

Thanks for keeping us in the loop, it is my pleasure to help people, and I am glad that your problem is fixed, good luck.

John