I had an outlet in pantry, a pan slid down onto the outlet screw, it arced burning the pan and the screw, leaving the outlet useless, I tested the wires with testing light, showing no power. It is the only outlet not working, no breaker was thrown, what do you think the problem is?

When you say "arced" to you mean a quick flash, then it stopped? I"d check again for a tripped breaker. Physically turn them off and back on again. Some type of breakers don't readily show they are tripped. And the outlet screw doesn't have any power to it... so what exactly did the pan hit, the prongs of a plug not fully inserted?

When it arced it probably did hit the cord that was plugged in, it is the only outlet not working in the whole house, it is on the screw type of fuses, the outlet and lights work in the rest of the room. It burned the plastic covering when it arced. Thanks

Many things could have happened if there was a short circuit created from the pan hitting the prongs on the plug in. First off it could have tripped a breaker. Some times when a breaker is tripped it isn't always easy to tell, especially if it isn't square D with the little window that shows orange when its tripped. One thing I do is I push all the breaker handles towards the on position and if one moves then turn it off then back on again. (make sure all electronics like computers are off before trying this because you might think one is tripped and it might not have been and you could turn off your computer, or what say you, and that is hard on electronics)If that doesn't work you could try turning them all off then on again. If that doesn't work or you have fuses instead of breakers then that outlet might be on a GFCI circuit(Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt). Those are the outlets with the buttons on them. They are usually found in the garage, kitchen, bathroom, utility/laundry room, and outside. If that is the case then simply push the reset button and it should work. If still unsuccessful then the outlet could be burned up inside and need to be replaced. If all those things are checked and still no results then I would call an electrician.
Note: Make sure your not testing the outlet with whatever you had plugged in when it arched. It may have fried as well.

It is an old outlet, 1966, so no gfci. The fuses are round, no breakers, I took the outlet out and touched an light test to the black wire and the white wire, I had no power to the light. The outlet was still attached to the wires, but I just touched the wires on the sides, the ground was not attached, just hanging in the back.

Check the connection just upstream from that one. Maybe it came loose from there. Other than that I would have to check it out myself. If something else comes to mind I'll let you know.

Test "lights" can be somewhat unreliable from my experience and may not show you a circuit that does have power to the hot leg but the neutral is disconnected/severed.

I don't know where upstream is of this circuit, as I said the house was built in 66, so I don't know anything about the wiring layout. I tried plugging in the outlet, so I know there is no power, so maybe I don't understand what you mean, no power to hot leg, not sure what to do at this point. Thanks

Check any of the closest outlets, may have burned or broke off there.

I checked the only other plug in, that is in that room, it works. Where do I go from here?

It could come from a receptacle on the wall behind, or a switch box, and even a ceiling box.

OK, I don't really know how to find out where the problem is, the attic has been closed off, so I have no access to it to get to junction box, and the wall is an interior wall off the kitchen. I'm thinking I probably am just going to lose the receptacle, short of tearing out a wall, if you have any other suggestions I would appreciate it. Thanks Linda

If it was me, an Electrician, I would determine if it is the hot or neutral that you lost, then with the good conductor(hot OR neutral), I would put a load on that conductor and determine which circuit it is on. Then turn off that breaker and see what also goes out, it would likely be in one of those boxes.
I would first verify that voltage is coming out of breakers, if it is the hot that is lost.
Breakers do not always throw when off.
If no Electrical tools or experience, I would turn off each breaker, then back on.
Wait a minute to turn refrigerator back on.
Hopefully you AC has a delay, or wait a minute to turn back on.

Remember guys, he has fuses.

This is obvisoulsy not going to be a quick fix. It's going to take some investigation. In order to diagnose the problem, you are going to have to find some way to trace the wires to a working outlet, or where ever the outlet wire leads to.

Many outlets are connected together, either through the outlet itself, or via pig tails. You most find which circuit controls that outlet, and find other outlets on that circuit. Once you find one that works, you will need to test that outlet's box by taking it out and verifying that volting is coming in, and going out to the other outlet.

It's also possible that a splice may have come undone.

Many older homes have jimmyrigged electrical. It's possible you may have some electrical taped poorly spliced connected between to floor joist, or even God forbid, between two walls (as was the case in my 1950's house)

I have found the wiring in the house to be good quality, we've not any problems at all, and when we had to go into add additional items, we've been able to do that successfully, but at that time we had access to the attic, now we don't, major problem. What kind of tester do I need to see if power is coming out the other side of my good outlet, since the light switch and another outlet in the room still work. I have a voltage tester, but I really don't know much about it, my husband says I'd be wiser to call a electrician, but like to try to figure out if I can, if all else fails, I'll have to call.

If you plug in an extension cord into a known good outlet, than that will give a good reference to see what is missing on your bad recepticle(hot or neutral), will need a Meter or AC tester. Then I would determine which wires at panel, then turn off that breaker, and see what else goes out. Likely in one of those boxes, if several circuits exit the panel in same conduit, then those breakers may need to be turned off to see which additional boxes need to be checked.
First see what's missing, Do you have voltage between the Hot and Ground? If so, your Neutral Opened up.