View Full Version : 1997 Chey Cavalier
J_9
Jul 31, 2006, 11:50 AM
Okay, I hope someone can help me with mycar problem.
I have a 1997 Chevy Cavalier with about 157K miles on it. In Sept 2005 I had a new transmission put in.
Well all was fine until about late May. It began this kind of "burping" feeling under the hood.
It has had a tune up, new plug wires, oil change, but the "burping" continues.
Every once in a while the ETS Off light comes on as well as the ABS light. They don't always come on, and sometimes go off for no apparent reason.
I hope this makes sense.:confused:
Does anyone know anything about this?
I have to begin driving 100 miles per day in this car for school and am afraid it will die at the worst possible moment.
I have to rely on this car for the next 2 years and need to take great care, so I am hoping someone can help.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 02:28 PM
Here's what I was able to find on the Internet:
ETS is Enhanced Traction System is used to stop wheel slip through reducing engine output. And if the light is on it doesn't mean you will spend x amount of dollars to fix it! It just means that ETS has been disabled because you have a engine problem and the computer cannot reduce power to the wheels because the engine might stall so the computer disables the system! Now some cars come with a switch by the shifter that turns on and off the system because if you get stuck in the snow traction control will keep you stcuk.
Take my word on this for I am a GM Tech who is a Master ASE with L1 certified!
Generally when the ets off light is on (the only light on and not along with the check engine light) you may have a wheel speed sensor not responding. This can happen due to metallic dust on the sensor. Clean the 4 sensor locations at the local spray wash (each located on the hubs - look for the wires going to each)
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From what's said above, I would have a mechanic remove each ABS sensor, using an external torx wrench, and clean it with a spritziled rag (don't use compressed air). Should be a very simple job. See if this solves the problem before doing anything else.
As a nursing student, who will be putting 100 miles a day on a Cavalier, I'd recommend you use Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic engine oil. Change your oil and filter every 6 months or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first. When you change your transmission fluid next time, which should be around September 2007, switch to the Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF and change the transmission filter again. If you take care of your engine and transmission, everything else is financially more manageable.
I will see what I can do, but to me ETS means electron transport system, (medicine), so when it comes to cars I know they eat gas and that is about it. I do understand that here in TN since we have no snow or ice that this should not be a problem, is this correct?
What about the ABS light, is that the same sort of thing?
Also, this "burping" it happens off an on, but I notice it mostly when I am at a stop and then have to pull out into traffic, there seems to be very little energy.
Something happened today that gets me even more curious, I stopped the car, left it in drive, and when I hit the gas it squealed and died. I had a hard time restarting after this.
Thank you for your info so far, my questions may sound silly, but I really have to rely on this car for the next two years.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 03:02 PM
When you had the tuneup, did they replace your spark plugs with the exact ACDelco plugs that came in your car? Only use AC Delco plugs recommended for your exact 1997 Cavalier engine. I would make sure your fuel filter has recently been replaced. I would also go to Autozone and buy a bottle of Regaine fuel injector cleaner and pour it into your fuel tank (do this every 6 months). This will clean your injectors and fuel system.
Well, as for the spark plugs, he said that they were fine, but the spark plug wires were not, so he changed those.
Everything was fine for a few weeks then it all started over again.
When I pour the fuel injector cleaner in, do I need a specific number of gallons of gas in the vehicle.
Also, I have been told that regular is okay unless you have a performance engine, is this true?
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 03:57 PM
When you get down to 1/4 tank, add the Regaine to your regular unleaded gasoline. Depending upon the size of your tank, you might only have to add half of the bottle.
Still, I would make sure you have the correct plugs in your engine. Many cross-reference plugs don't work well and it sounds like your electrical system could be behind your engine stumbling and stalling. Replace your plugs at half of the mileage recommended by GM. Personally, I would install new plugs if they are over 2 years old--you shouldn't have the type of problems you are experiencing. With only four cylinders, any problem with a plug will be easily noticed.
Cleaning the ABS sensors of dirt and metallic oxides will probably stop the ABS light from coming on.
Well, I am guessing now that I need to replace the plugs.
The mechanic I last took it to said that they were the "original" plugs but were in good shape. I am assuming that is way wrong listening to you, so I will make an appointment with another mechanic tomorrow.
I thank you for your help so far and I will keep you posted as to what the mechanic says.
Thank you so much for your advice. I really appreciate it.
Janine
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 04:31 PM
By the way, my wife used to be a nurse and hospital administrator, Baptist Memorial Hospital, Memphis.
Dr D
Aug 1, 2006, 04:58 PM
At long last, a question about something other than a Honda. I attempted to put a favorable comment on txgreasemonkey but was not able. Obviously you know your trade. I am an old car guy who was left in the dust by computerized cars. I'm still a pretty good wrench on the old stuff.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 04:59 PM
Janine, try and get the fuel filter replaced as well. Then, give me an update.
Thank you, Dr. D, for your kind comment.
TX, is the fuel filter expensive?
Is it something I could do myself if you talked me through it? I need to try and save as much money as possible.
I really appreciate your help, you really have no idea.
Also, this fuel additive, is it anything like something called Sea Foam (I think that is what I bought a few months ago at AutoZone).
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 05:57 PM
No, the fuel filter should not be expensive. Give me the exact engine your car has and I'll do some research for you. Sea Foam is a throttle body cleaner. Regaine cleans the whole fuel system, including tank, lines, injectors, throttle body, valves, and top cylinder area. It really works and you cannot damage anything.
Where do I get the info to give you the engine?
Do I look on the door panel or where?
Is it the 2.2 liter something or other that you need?
I know human bodies, not car bodies. LOL
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 06:02 PM
Yes, stuff like 2.2L. Find out for sure.
Under the hood it says
ZAA
2.2L
Does that make any sense?
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 06:17 PM
Yes.
Many times there is a sticker under the hood that says what spark plugs to use. Do you see anything like that?
Is your's a Cavalier, Cavalier LS, Cavalier RS, or Cavalier Z24?
Okay, would it be hard for me to replace the fuel filter on my own?
Now, remember I am not much bigger than my avatar and due to cancer have very little upper body strength. But I would love to surprise my hubby and do it all if I could.
We were told by a friend who works at AutoZone that SeaFoam was a fuel injector, gas tank, all of that cleaner. My hubby's 1994 Chevy van loves it, but it seems to do nothing for my Cavalier.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 06:28 PM
Sea Foam makes several types of cleaners. If you've used one that cleans the injectors, then save the money for now.
I suspect that good preventive maintenance could be all your car needs; i.e. new plugs, fuel filter, and possibly air filter. Something basic is not right. Have you had any major problems with the engine before? Does it use oil or seem like it's on its last legs?
Fuel Filter for a 1997 Cavalier, 4 cyl. 134 cu. in. 2.2L OHV engine:
. Autozone: Deutsch FF4508, $6.99
. Advance Auto: Purolator F54714, $6.96
You would need to locate it on your car, disconnect negative battery terminal, probably depressurize fuel system by opening gas cap, place rags under filter and carefully remove and replace it. Appears to be threaded on one end and neoprene tubing on the other. You might be able to do it yourself.
My father's little Toyota pickup recently died on the road, due to a clogged fuel filter. He was finally able to get it restarted, but he barely limped home. He changes his every couple of years, but, obviously, something happened in the interim. That's why I'm concerned about your Cavalier. Your fuel filter may never have been changed.
Air Filter for a 1997 Cavalier, 4 cyl. 134 cu. in. 2.2L OHV engine:
. Autozone: STP SA3916, $4.79
. Advance Auto: Purolator A33590, $6.44
You should definitely be able to change your air filter. Locate air filter cover, undue fasteners, remove old filter, wipe down air box with a damp cloth and allow to dry, install new filter, and reassemble.
Air filter is perfect, hubby checked it today. Clean as a whistle.
When it comes to the fuel filter, will you be able to help me locate it if I describe what I see?
Where should I look?
I would like to do this tomorrow while he is at work.
I don't think we have Advance Auto here, I truly live in a one horse town.
REally, can you help me do this? You are really great in all your help. I really mean this. You have NO idea.
Does the fuel filter look like a little goldish, copper thingy in the front of the engine? A little smaller than a vegetable can?
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 08:02 PM
That sounds like it. Go to Advance Auto Parts website and double click the pictures:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=4&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Fuel%20Filter
I am not sure right now, but I think the Purolator or the Fram looks like it.
What I see sits right up front.
Am I correct in this?
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 08:06 PM
I'm not familiar with your Cavalier. It would be best if you had a Haynes Manual from Autozone to assist you.
Did you see a label under the hood for what plugs you should use?
No, where do I look? There is nothing on the hood itself.
If I am looking at the engine the only label I see is on the left side (passenger) where it told me the ZAA 2.2L
I also saw some oil leakage around the plugs. But honestly, what do I know?
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 08:14 PM
Does your Cavalier use oil? If the leakage is from the valve covers, which oozes down on the plugs, you could take a wrench and carefully tighten the valve cover bolts. Wipe the area down and see if the leak persists.
The oil level seems to stay steady, we rarely have to add oil. I just saw some today when hubby checked the air filter and thought that I might be leaking some.
Maybe I am over reacting with everything else that is going on.
But it really scares me to be on a quiet TENN road by myself. I keep thinking of Deliverance. LOL
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 08:19 PM
I would call a local Chevy dealer tomorrow and ask them which exact plugs came in your Cavalier. I can come up with an acceptable ACDelco plug, but I would like to see you install what came in your car.
Nurses need to carefully document what they do with a patient. I want you to start maintaining meticulous records on what and when work is performed on your car. A simple ledger will do--Date, Mileage, Work Performed.
Well, I bought it in Michigan and now live in Tennessee, does that matter?
Are there different brands of AC Delco plugs?
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 1, 2006, 08:36 PM
No. Were you the original owner? ACDelco is the brand GM uses, but I would like to know what plug number was installed with the car. It likely is ACDelco O.E. Platinum Spark Plugs, Part No.41-928. These go for $5.99 each at Autozone.
Do you know whether your plugs have ever been changed before?
Here's the problem with you changing the plugs yourself. First, plugs in aluminum head engines need to be removed when the engine is "stone cold." Otherwise, you really increase the risk of stripping the aluminum threads. Since your existing plugs have been in the engine for a long time, it increases the possibility that the plugs could seize in the head. Platinum plugs should be removed and reinstalled every two years to prevent seizure. Second, I'm not sure you have the tools to do the job. Frequently a small pea-size dab of antiseize compound should be applied to the lower threads to help prevent seizure. Because of this, I think it's best to have a mechanic or your husband do the job for you, after the engine is cold.
Remember to put 34 psi in your tires, before you head back to school. Your spare probably requires 60 psi, if it's the standard donut tire.
Okay, want to go out and check the plug #s for you. I think there is a rubber covering on them, do I just lift that covering and read the #s?
And yes, I believe they are the original plugs.
Thanks for the psi info, I will get that checked today.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 09:10 AM
Grab the base of the boot, gently twist, and pull one off. Don't pull on the wire itself.
Okay, be right back.
Okay, they will not gently twist off. I am afraid to pull too hard, but it feels as though the boot does not want to budge.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 09:29 AM
Yes, they can be pretty difficult to get off. I spray the inside of the boot with silicone spray to make it easier to get them off next time.
Probably best to let your husband or a mechanic do it. I really think new plugs should make a HUGE difference in how your car runs. Get 4 ACDelco O.E. Platinum 41928 Sparkplugs from Autozone for $5.99 ea. along with the Deutsch FF4508 Fuel Filter for $6.99.
Cool, will call the hubby and let him know, hopefully we can get this done in the next day or so. I will buy the parts and have mechanic put them in. The mechanic is our neighbor and a good friend, so should be no problem.
Thank you so much for your help, it is great to have someone like you on this site.
Too bad you are too far away, I would buy you lunch!! ;)
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 09:40 AM
You are welcome. Please give me an update on how your car runs afterwards.
Most certainly!! I will keep you posted. Thanks a bunch again.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 11:38 AM
Here's an offer of free conventional Maxlife Engine Oil from Valvoline:
http://www.valvoline.com/maxlife/microsite.asp
If you buy Valvoline Synthetic MaxLife Engine Oil, Valvoline will refund you $17.50 for 5 quarts. I would go for the synthetic, if you can afford to at this time. Offer expires 8/26/06.
Here's another good deal on Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic Engine Oil from O'Reilly Auto Parts, which are all over TN:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Publications.do (Go to page 3)
6x$3.99=$23.94-$15.00=$8.94/6=Only $1.49/qt. after rebate.
Thank you, will definitely use it!!
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 02:18 PM
After you get your car running well and you know it is a "keeper," have your mechanic flush your brake system with Valvoline SynPower Brake Fluid. In the meantime, you could get a battery squeeze bulb ($2.50), clean the area around the top of the master cylinder reservoir, open the cap, and suck out some of the old brake fluid. Don't take it so low that you get air in the system. Then, just refill the reservoir to the "Max Level" line and replace the cap. You will be amazed how much better your brakes will be. The pulsating action of the ABS, and the glycol ether base of the fluid, will start to mix with the old fluid immediately. A 12 oz. container of brake fluid will be more than enough for what you will do. Buy 32 oz. if you decide to flush the whole system.
I really don't have a problem with the ABS other than the light coming on and off.
Mechanic said it had something to do with codes. When he checked he said there was nothing wrong, so he "turned the code off." This was a while ago and it just recently started again.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 02:37 PM
This is really more about having good brakes. Brake failure is the No. 1 fear of drivers, particularly women. Brake fluid should really be changed every 2 years.
Will keep that in mind. Hey, great pic.
Is that you? LOL
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 02:43 PM
Yes, I was in the Air Force. Picture taken over Otis AFB, MA (Cape Cod), going into a barrel roll.
OMG, is that really you?
What a cool pic!!
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 03:57 PM
Are you going for your BSN at the University of Memphis?
I thought you asked about my BSN and U of M.
I am currently going for my AAS at DSCC, then will attend U of Memphis, GO TIGERS!!
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 05:17 PM
You will enjoy nursing--it's a great career field.
Thank you... I really do appreciate your help.
Oh, yeah, funny thing...
Nothing will be done to the car till Friday,
But when I ran some errands this afternoon it acted as though nothing was wrong.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 05:21 PM
When I was in engineering school, there were many nursing students in my chemistry classes.
Oh, Chemistry is tough, especially if you get a professor who barely speaks english like I had.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 05:25 PM
I had a Chinese lab assistant who wanted me to become a chemistry major, but all I wanted to do was become an aerospace engineer and be an Air Force test pilot.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 2, 2006, 05:31 PM
I always wanted my son to become interested in working on cars, planes, and electronics. I wasn't to be. He's a 32 year old securities lawyer, working in Los Angeles. However, he did learn something--he uses Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil in his car and regularly gets his brake fluid changed. He knows if he doesn't, he could have big problems on the L.A. freeways.
There's nothing worse when you are young and get that unexpected bill to rebuild an engine or transmission. I've been there and now try and help young people learn through my experiences. You can learn synthetically through the experiences of others or you can learn from the school of hard knocks.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 3, 2006, 05:32 PM
Did you get your spark plugs and fuel filter?
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 4, 2006, 08:43 AM
Will your plugs and fuel filter be installed today, as planned?
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 5, 2006, 10:25 AM
Did you get your car fixed?
TX,
The car is running FANTASTIC now. Thank you for your help. It is almost like I have a new car.
Thanks again. I wish you were here as my mechanic. I cannot tell you how much help you have given.
Wonderful advice... You are GREAT!!
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 5, 2006, 06:03 PM
Thank you! Did your mechanic replace the plugs and fuel filter? Did the ETS light go out with the new spark plugs?
Remember to:
. Record the work that was done in your Maintenance Log,
. Switch to synthetic oil next time (change at 6 months or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first), and
. Change the brake fluid with Valvoline SynPower.
Good luck with your nursing studies and happy motoring!
He replaced the plugs and filter with the ones that you recommended. I printed out the log of our virtual conversation and he agreed you were right on the money.
However, he did say something about Castrol Oil and that it is better, what is your opinion on that.
Hubby recorded all the work and keeps all receipts.
You are a life saver. Thanks for all your help.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 5, 2006, 06:49 PM
If price was not a factor, I would only use Amsoil or Mobil 1, which have pure polyalphaolefin (PAO) base oils. These are Group IV oils (best). Castrol Syntec is a "good" oil, but it is only a Group III oil. Castrol markets Group III oils at Group IV prices.
Castrol does make a "World Class" oil, however, in their German Castrol 0W-30. This is available at Autozone but not many other stores.
Cost is a factor, with most people, and I would recommend you only buy oils on great sales; e.g. Valvoline right now. Basically, if you buy any of the main brand synthetics at a great price, you have a great deal. The worst synthetic is better than the best conventional mineral oil.
In the Air Force, we only use synthetics in our jet engines, just like all commercial jet airliners.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 5, 2006, 06:56 PM
Did the ETS light go out?
Opps, sorry, the ETS light as well as the ABS light are very fickle. The usually go on the first time I start the car and then sometimes go off on their own.
Scott (my mechanic) "cleared the codes" after he said he found nothing wrong and the light stayed off today. I will just have to see what tomorrow brings.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 5, 2006, 07:05 PM
Remember, if the light comes back, remove and clean the sensors. There's a possibility that the new plugs will improve the situation and you won't throw any more codes. That's encouraging.
Do I have to take it back to clean the sensors?
I will keep you posted as to anything else that happens. I really appreciate your help.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 5, 2006, 07:12 PM
Like you said, let's see how it goes.
Well, you know for sure that I will be checking in with you.
You are a lifesaver and a "money saver" to say the least.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 5, 2006, 07:16 PM
Saving money is a very good thing.
Yea, and thanks to you it seems that I saved a lot!!
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 5, 2006, 07:18 PM
Become an investor and retire young--like me. Saving and investing is a mind set that opens a whole host of new opportunities for your life. My wife and I travel regularly to Europe and Latvia trying to help others. If we did not save our money when we were younger, this wouldn't have been possible.
Well, I plan on investing in something medical.
If you ever have any med questions, please feel free to contact me.
I will keep you informed of anything that comes up and, for all that you have done, let you know how well things continue to go.
You truly have been a life saver!!
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 6, 2006, 06:29 AM
Remember to check the air in your tires, including spare, and the water level in your battery (use distilled water).
Next time you go to Autozone, buy a Deutch Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve, Part No. PCV1106, for $1.39. This is something you should be able to replace yourself in no time.
Preferred oil filters for your car would be:
. Purolator Pure One (PL1011)--Premium filter with silicone anti-drainback valve. Great value for the money.
. ACDelco PF47--OEM quality
. Mobil 1 (M1-101)--Premium oil filter
The technology of oil filters has improved tremendously over the past 5 years. Synthetic oil, in combination with a nanotechnology oil filter, is an unbeatable combination that maintains "like new" performance and saves you big money in the long run.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 8, 2006, 06:29 PM
J_9, give me an update on your car. Have the ETS and ABS lights stayed off?
No they have not stayed off.
It seems like they stay on the first time I start the car. If I drive it they stay on until I turn the car off and then turn it back on again.
It only seems to happen the first time the car is started each day.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 9, 2006, 07:54 AM
At startup, the computer probably notices something is not quite right with the ABS sensors; i.e. metallic oxides and grime. Like we talked before, they likely need to be removed and cleaned with a spritziled rag. Make sure compressed air is not used.
J_9
Aug 16, 2006, 09:24 AM
Well, TX, looks like I am going to have to get a new car.
The same thing started again, A/C went out, panel lights coming on and off (new ones this time)
Mechanic said this car won't last too much longer.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 16, 2006, 01:12 PM
What does the mechanic say is so unfixable with the car? Should you get a second opinion?
Sounds like you might only need a new ignition switch and harness. They frequently plug into the under-dash fuse box. When the ignition switch starts to go, dash lights and other electrical items won't get power. Not that big of a deal, if you think that could be your problem. Take it to a Chevy dealer and let them assess the situation, before you do anything radical.
J_9
Aug 16, 2006, 03:03 PM
Well, among others, got a broken motor mount.
No need for a second opinion, this mechanic never charges us for work, only parts. He is a family friend. Long story as to why, but he feels partly responsible for a situation that happened 5 years ago and now feels the need to repay. He lives 2 doors down from me and has offered for me to use his car till I get another one, his wife has her own and he can drive the tow truck for a little bit.
He charged the A/C at no cost the other day, has towed me at no cost, etc.
Anyway, my in-laws offered to buy me a car, but I have to stick to the dealership they use, which is Ford. What do you know about a ford focus?
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 16, 2006, 07:39 PM
The Ford Focus is a very good car.
J_9
Aug 19, 2006, 05:58 PM
Just a note to let you know that I got a new car today.
Father-in-law bought me a 2005 Ford Five Hundred, 16,000 miles.
Was a program car with a 6 year/60,000 mile warranty.
Apparently the "computer" system on the cavalier as well as the a/c went out. It DIED on me on Thursday. Could not restart it at all.
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 19, 2006, 06:14 PM
Great car--I'm very happy for you. Remember to only use synthetic oil in the engine and transmission. Change the Motorcraft platinum plugs every 50,000 miles. Make sure you get an owner's manual and follow the recommended maintenance.
Read my thread on Recommended Air Conditioner Maintenance--it might save you a lot of money over time.
J_9
Aug 19, 2006, 08:03 PM
Can you post that thread here?
Also, the manual did not come with the car. Can you tell me how to get one?
Do I just ask the dealership or do I have to order one?
TxGreaseMonkey
Aug 19, 2006, 08:10 PM
The dealer should be able to get it for you. I did post the thread in this section--I think it's a must read for anyone owning a home air conditioner.
maxnet
Dec 11, 2006, 02:15 PM
I have Cavalier 97. But the speedometer is not working and there is a strange voice coming from the back of it every time I switch of the car its like :
Zgzgzgzggzgzgz for 3 or 4 seconds.
Now I can not know if I'm overspeed and Police officer is stopping me every day...
Please help me people. Should I change the VSS or the speedometer it self...
Please provide photos and maps for how to install the VSS (rewiring) because I think that the speedometer cable is no more working and the pricies in this country is very high!!
...