Hello,
I've recently moved into a rent house that supplies a line for a gas dryer. I have a whirlpool 3prong electric dryer that I've been using for years. Before calling an electrician I was wondering if this was a difficult task for my husband, although he is a good handy man, electricity is not one of his favorites. Anyone have any suggestions? :confused:

Since this is a rental house and not one that you bought, I would highly suggest contacting the landlord and asking if he would install the 220 line for you. If he says no, ask him if he would even allow this if properly installed by a licensed electrician. Under no circumstances have hubby do this since this home is not yours.

Go out and purchase a 110-220v step-up transformer capable of the amperage / wattage of your dryer...

A 110 power line is not going to carry a 220 power, a entire new line will have to be installed.

Your first phone call should be to the landlord. 2nd if you are not experienced with electricity I would highly recommend calling in a professional since you WILL be running a new line into the circuit box and unless you plan on shutting the entire house down you will be working in a box with line voltage. And trust me it does not tickle. :eek: You also want to make sure the current electrical box can handle the added load.

Why not just go out and buy a gas dryer and solve your problem as installing a new line could probably run you about the same money in the end anyway? What's so hard about that? Dryer doesn't have to be brand new either.

I agree with those who say you should contact your landlord...

However, for any homeowners who may be reading this... I come back with this.

The 110 volt outlet is fed by a hot (black wire) neutral (white wire), and ground (green or bare copper wire)

There is enough wires here to make a 220 volt outlet, just not for a dryer. A dryer will most likely require a neutral.

Also, I'd amost bet that the 110 volt outlet is ran on 14 gauge or 12 gauge wire, neither will be sufficient for an electric drier, even if you did have the three conductors.

To do it right, you need to calculate the amps that the dryer will draw. If the dryer has a 4500 watt element, and other various components (motor, controls etc) consume 500 watts, then the dryer will consume about 5,000 watts. 5,000/240 is 20.83 amps. A 30 amp double pole breaker will need to be installed in the box.

Then you will need to run a three conductor 10 gauge wire to the new outlet.

But again, your landlord should take on this task.

And this is my 200th post!

I am really kind of scared by a few totally inaccurate posts here.


Go out and purchase a 110-220v step-up transformer capable of the amperage / wattage of your dryer...

Not even close...


A 110 power line is not going to carry a 220 power, a entire new line will have to be installed.

Getting closer but still not quite right. You can run 220 or should I say 240V on many different lines. What determines the size wire you need is AMPs not Volts. Mostly right though because the dryer will need both 120 & 240 at 30 AMP meaning you will need 10/2, unless you plan on adding a ground (which I recommend) in which case you need 10/3 and will have to buy and install a new 4 prong plug for the dryer.


Your first phone call should be to the landlord. 2nd if you are not experienced with electricity I would highly recommend calling in a professional since you WILL be running a new line into the circuit box and unless you plan on shutting the entire house down you will be working in a box with line voltage. And trust me it does not tickle. :eek: You also want to make sure the current electrical box can handle the added load.

I agree with most of this but WHO would not shut off all the power when in the box?? That is just a bad move period unless you would like to die. Also I have worked in the box and I am no pro just make sure you educate yourself about how to do it right and safely.

Andrew got it right!

Don't mean to rant but if you're not completely sure you can give a good answer here please wait for an expert to do so (Stan, KISS, Russell). I wait for them all the time...

I agree with most of this but WHO would not shut off all the power when in the box??? That is just a bad move period unless you would like to die. Also I have worked in the box and I am no pro just make sure you educate yourself about how to do it right and safely.

There is no need to shut off the main when installing a new breaker/circuit if you know what you are doing that is. In my line of work, working with live voltages is part of the job. You either learn to respect it or you get got.

There is no need to shut off the main when installing a new breaker/circuit if you know what you are doing that is. In my line of work, working with live voltages is part of the job. You either learn to respect it or you get got.

Okay if you are highly trained and licensed maybe. But I wouldn't think of it, no way no how even if I was confident I could do it why take the chance. And I would never suggest a DIY'er do that.

That is why I said the bit about learning to respect it and what it can do to you. I won't lie, I get nervous sticking my hand into a 3 phase box. Hell I can still feel the tingle when I put my fingers into a new disconnect even if it has no wires to it yet!

That is why I said the bit about learning to respect it and what it can do to you. I won't lie, I get nervous sticking my hand into a 3 phase box. Hell I can still feel the tingle when I put my fingers into a new disconnect even if it has no wires to it yet!

Hell I get nervous working in the box with the darn power off! But hey I am an accountant who crunches numbers all day and has a wife with a baby on the way. If I did it every day maybe another story. I take it you work for the power company?

Nope. I'm a commercial HVAC/R technician.

Both are correct. Yes you can work on a box while it's hot. I've done it, many times. Mainly because when you want to add one circuit, you don't turn off the power to a house full of girls.

And I don't know which is worse, getting zapped or making my wife and daughter mad. LOL

(that was just a joke by the way)

But, the greater majority of askers on this site have never even opened a panel box before. As a safety, yes I'll agree that it's always good to advise them to cut off the main.

After all, we don't want the mans wife coming back on here blasting us for giving him advice that sent him to the hopital.

And I still get a weird feeling in my toes and fingers when I'm troubleshooting a 480 volt circuit. There is just something about it.

I got hit with 10,000 from an ignition transformer once. It really wasn't as bad as grabbing a live 240. I could taste metal after the 240 circuit.

See I feel like what if I make one tiny mistake and touch the bare ground to the center live bus? My panel is in a pored concrete basement so I think I would make a great ground maybe even with shoes on, not that I always wear them

They say it isn't the voltage but the current that kills.

I've been bit by a few spark ignitors myself.

I've never had a really bad shock, but I did hear 480 dead short once. On a disposer in a hospital. The maintenance crew and I were trying to find the short, we repaired one bad connection, and they left to flip the power back on. Well, they didn't return for a while, I walked up the hall towards the service corridor. I was about 200 feet away, up the hall. I heard a sound like a shot gun went off, and the lights in the hopital flickered.

Apparently we had not found the short.

(which turned out to be in a Jbox behind the wall)

See I feel like what if I make one tiny mistake and touch the bare ground to the center live bus? My panel is in a pored concrete basement so i think i would make a great ground maybe even with shoes on, not that I always wear them

Yea, you do have to watch that ground wire. Even when I run a new circuit on a live box, I keep my eye on the bare ground, and it is always the first wire I secure.

Again for anyone reading this, you do take your life into your hands when you do this. Do so with caution.

See I feel like what if I make one tiny mistake and touch the bare ground to the center live bus? My panel is in a pored concrete basement so i think i would make a great ground maybe even with shoes on, not that I always wear themOh don't get me wrong, it is great to be cautious. Especially if you aren't really comfortable with electricity. I'm smack dab into remodeling my house and the electrical system is SCARY at best. I have a slab foundation and my panel is so damned old there is no ground bar. From what I can tell the system is relying on the conduit, for lack of a better term, as the ground.

Oh don't get me wrong, it is great to be cautious. Especially if you aren't really comfortable with electricity. I'm smack dab into remodeling my house and the electrical system is SCARY at best. I have a slab foundation and my panel is so damned old there is no ground bar. From what I can tell the system is relying on the conduit, for lack of a better term, as the ground.

Wow you should really upgrade that panel. And don't get me wrong either we are just discussing this and I wanted to put my reasons behind it. Is there somewhere else we should take this conversation because I am not sure this is the right place

Oh don't get me wrong, it is great to be cautious. Especially if you aren't really comfortable with electricity. I'm smack dab into remodeling my house and the electrical system is SCARY at best. I have a slab foundation and my panel is so damned old there is no ground bar. From what I can tell the system is relying on the conduit, for lack of a better term, as the ground.

Sounds like fun. I finally got all of my ungrounded circuits grounded last month. It only took 5 years. When I first baught this place, a wire run run out of the box in the basement, there would be a tape splice, then those two wires would splice, and so on, with nothing more than tape. I had numourous runs of 14 gauge wire on 20 amp breakers.

My first year here I just put all the splices in metal j boxes and any 14 gauge circuit on 15 amp breakers. This December I finally got everything upgraded to grounded 12 gauge wire. Cleaned it all up real nice. One circuit at a time.

I don't know. In my opinion the question was answered.
#1. Call your landlord.
#2. Call an electrician.
:p

Wow you should really upgrade that panel. And don't get me wrong either we are just discussing this and I wanted to put my reasons behind it. Is there somewhere else we should take this conversation because I am not sure this is the right place

Nah, I think this thread is just as well hijacked. The OP does't look like he's coming back. So it's ours now. :) And even if he did, he may learn something.

Just three "Jack's of all trades" sitting around on their computer at 2:30 AM talking is all. No harm in that...

Sounds like fun. I finally got all of my ungrounded circuits grounded last month. It only took 5 years. When I first baught this place, a wire run run out of the box in the basement, there would be a tape splice, then those two wires would splice, and so on, with nothing more than tape. I had numourous runs of 14 gauge wire on 20 amp breakers.

My first year here I just put all the splices in metal j boxes and any 14 gauge circuit on 15 amp breakers. This December I finally got everything upgraded to grounded 12 gauge wire. Cleaned it all up real nice. One circuit at a time.

I upgraded the service in my house from 60 Amp to 150 Amp but had a pro do that part. He put in a new panel and everything and changed the location of the panel and re routed wire as needed. Bought the house in Sept this year. Problem with my house now is none of the original wiring is grounded NOTHING. So I am slowly replacing the circuits one by one.

Why the hell not Andrew I agree for now, someone will delete most of this in the morning.

Hell my house is nowhere near code according the NEC. Each bedroom has one outlet. One. Come spring it's all coming out. All new wiring, all new HVAC system... everything. I've learned that my trade comes in handy for personal projects as well :p

Why the hell not Andrew I agree for now, someone will delete most of this in the morning.


Nahh... Like Mark said, the askers question was answered, we're still talking about electrical. The worst thing the mods may to is take some of these post and put them in a new thread.

Although I don't know what they would call it.

In response to your other comment...

Have you uncovered anything interesting hidden in the walls regarding to your electrical?

I know I was pulling a cable through a wall and uncovered yet another taped splice that I had missed. Nice fire hazard.

I recently replaced a couple of light fixtures and in the J-box there was solid core (I HATE solid core) one hooked around the other and then taped. No wire nuts, just old e-tape.

Hell my house is nowhere near code according the NEC. Each bedroom has one outlet. One. Come spring it's all coming out. All new wiring, all new HVAC system....everything. I've learned that my trade comes in handy for personal projects as well :p

The only old wire I have left is on the switch loop ciruits. (where the wire runs to the light switches) I may change those in time, but they are on a low priority now. It's 14 gauge, but that's the only circuit I still have on a 15 Amp breaker.

Nahh... Like Mark said, the askers question was answered, we're still talking about electrical. The worst thing the mods may to is take some of these post and put them in a new thread.

Although I dont know what they would call it.

In responce to your other comment...

Have you uncovered anything interesting hidden in the walls regarding to your electrical?

I know I was pulling a cable through a wall and uncovered yet another taped splice that I had missed. Nice fire hazard.

When I replaced the 120/240 dryer wire I found the electrician I hired to do it used 10/2 and used the bare ground as a neutral. Okay it was like 12 inches from the box but come on why would you do that.

Are you sure he used it as neutral and not as a ground?

The only old wire I have left is on the switch loop ciruits. (where the wire runs to the light switches) I may change those in time, but they are on a low priority now. it's 14 gauge, but that's the only circuit I still have on a 15 Amp breaker.

Yeah for me I even consider the light circuit’s in general low priority. Sure it’s 14 or 12 AWG 1950’s style romex but it seems to be in good condition. But all the outlets not having an equipment ground, don’t like that at all.

I'm lucky in that here in Indiana we can still use Romex. I live very close to the state line and on the Illinois side Romex is illegal. Everything has to be EMT or rigid.

Are you sure he used it as neutral and not as a ground?

Yes it’s a 120/240 dryer so he had to use the black and white as hot wires(nice how he didn’t mark the white as red so someone would know it was hot). Also the dryer didn't have a ground before it was 3 prong. I fixed it all with 10/3 new outlet and prong, also I took that j-box out completely and ran the wire into the main box.

Yeah for me I even consider the light circuit’s in general low priority. Sure it’s 14 or 12 AWG 1950’s style romex but it seems to be in good condition. But all the outlets not having an equipment ground, don’t like that at all.

Agreed, the light circuit in general was the last thing I changed. It was the week of Thanksgiving. I was off that week. I started my project that Saturday. I got most of the lights back on in time for Turkey dinner. My wife was freaking out.

The splice I was telling you about was uncovered on the light circuit. The wire that ran up the walls to feed the lights came from an outlet in the bedroom. I wanted to separate this outlet from the light circuit.

Now get this, I knew that the lights fed on this outlet, because when I turned off the breaker for the lights, that outlet would go out too, plus I traced the wire in the basement and attic and it all came together.

What puzzled me was when I removed the outlet in the wall, there was only one set of wires coming into the outlet.

So my question was, where is this splice that goes to the lights?

Well I knocked out the old box, and reached my hand up in the hole in the wall to feel around, and I pulled out my answer, a bare taped splice, right between the wall! The supply line came in from below, then split to the outlet, and split upwards to the lights. All joined by electrical tape only.

To make things more interesting, when I first moved in here, that circuit was one of the ones on a 20 amp breaker, but most of the wiring was 14 gauge.

I'm lucky in that here in Indiana we can still use Romex. I live very close to the state line and on the Illinois side Romex is illegal. Everything has to be EMT or rigid.

That’s crazy nothing wrong with NM wire... I could see maybe if they require NMC but even that is overkill. In commercial applications that might make sense but that is beyond my scope of understanding.

I will brb time for a smoke break.

Just make sure you don't overtighten those romex connectors. I did this up in the attic. Pinched right through to the hot wire. Shorted the j box.

Well, in order to troubleshoot this, I went upstairs and unhooked everything and just went to each fixture and j box one by one until I found the culprit. Thing is, you couldn't look at it and tell which one it was it required testing.

And yes I got shocked a couple of times.

Well I knocked out the old box, and reached my hand up in the hole in the wall to feel around, and I pulled out my answer, a bare taped splice, right between the wall! The supply line came in from below, then split to the outlet, and split upwards to the lights. All joined by electrical tape only.

To make things more interesting, when I first moved in here, that circuit was one of the ones on a 20 amp breaker, but most of the wiring was 14 gauge.

That is scary. Did you have any problems pulling the new wire in? I imagine you joined the new wire to the old somewhere you could get to it and taped around it. I am worried that as I start pulling wire some of it might be stapled in.

Just make sure you don't overtighten those romex connectors. I did this up in the attic. pinched right through to the hot wire. Shorted the j box.

Did you use wire nuts or what kind of connector? Not completely following

Well, I ran the new wire for the light circuit up a different wall, where I had better access. Regarding all of the outlets, I just fished up from the basement. Stuck my hand in the hole, found the wire and pulled it through. I used an old work box, so every circuit I replaced had brand new wire.

My only painful problem was on the exterior walls, there was this gray loose insulation. Not like what they make now. I don't think it was asbestos, but I do know that it had tiny little metal splinters all up in it and I got quite a number of those in my hands.

Did you use wire nuts or what kind of connector? Not completely following

The romex connector that you screw into a jbox. It clamps down on the wire to hold it in place. (has two screws on both sides)

I overtightned one and it clamped down into the wire itself and shorted it out.

My only painful problem was on the exterior walls, there was this gray loose insulation. Not like what they make now. I don't think it was asbestos, but I do know that it had tiny little metal splinters all up in it and I got quite a number of those in my hands.

You should wear a P100 filter with a mask if you think asbestos might be present. I got one for like $15 and sometimes use it just for drywall even though it is overkill. Not that asbestos was there just a suggestion.

BTW, anyone getting snow right now? It is coming down hard here.

The romex connector that you screw into a jbox. It clamps down on the wire to hold it in place. (has two screws on both sides)

I overtightned one and it clamped down into the wire itself and shorted it out.

Oh I see, yeah that could happen. I usually use the black plastic push in kind. They let the wire come in the box but prevent it from being pulled out. Has its ups and downs.

Not snowing here but it's pretty cold and windy.

Gheeze it's going on 4AM, my wife is going to be pissed when I crawl into bed this late!

I'd better sign off. But it's been good conversation tonight though. I'm sure our comments will cross paths again.

I too am curious as to what the mods do with this thread when they wake up tomorrow, if anything at all.

Talk to you later!

Good night... I feel the same way, about the wife that is.

There is no need to shut off the main when installing a new breaker/circuit if you know what you are doing that is. In my line of work, working with live voltages is part of the job. You either learn to respect it or you get got.

That is part of the issue here. He is NOT a professional, so either get a professional or shut it off before installing. I too am experienced with electricity and no I have never shut the main off for anything. I have also witnessed professionals take some serious shots and cause equipment damage. There is no need to put a homeowner at that risk!

That is part of the issue here. He is NOT a professional, so either get a professional or shut it off before installing. I too am experienced with electricity and no I have never shut the main off for anything. I have also witnessed professionals take some serious shots and cause equipment damage. There is no need to put a homeowner at that risk!

Who is not a professional me? I thought I made that clear.

I think they are referring to the original poster.

Anyway, we all reached the general consensus last night that it is better to throw the main before starting to work in a breaker panel.

Anyway, we all reached the general consensus last night that it is better to throw the main before starting to work in a breaker panel.

We did? Not sure about that...

We should start a thread for electrical chat or something like that to have these general discussions. Right now I am doing my Advanced Accounting homework TTYL.

However some breaker panels do not have an outside disconnect. Mine is like this, so even if I throw the main at the top of the panel, care must still be excersized as there are still two lugs at the top which remain hot.

We did? Not sure about that...

We should start a thread for electrical chat or something like that to have these general discussions. Right now I am doing my Advanced Accounting homework TTYL.

I think so... nobody said it was a bad idea not to throw the main. And I don't think anyone argued the safety aspects of it. It was only stated that it can be done with the box hot. Even it it's not such a good idea.

Working on a hot box is dangerous, but so is working on a load bearing wall, on a three story 12/12 roof, even running a power tool. It's just a matter of respecting the equipment.

And yes, I'll agree that the best way to respect a breaker panel is to kill the power to it.

I also agree with the general chitchat thread. In fact, it would be said that one is already started. Feel free to use the "New Fluke" thread that I started about a week ago. It was just an ordinary general purpose electrical conversation.

Has some good grounding facts in there too. I may have fallen a few pages back though.

Study hard, tax time is just a few weeks away!

Its not tax stuff, I have programs for that BS.

I have been doing this stuff for over 30 years and I ALWAYS kill the main to replace a breaker. It is just the safest way to do it.

I have been doing this stuff for over 30 years and I ALWAYS kill the main to replace a breaker. It is just the safest way to do it.

If you have the luxury to kill the main then great but in my line of work I simply cannot kill the power to an entire restaurant or even a section just to put in a breaker. It's just not possible.

If you have the luxury to kill the main then great but in my line of work I simply cannot kill the power to an entire restaurant or even a section just to put in a breaker. It's just not possible.


Not only that, but those restaurant service panels have those screw in type breakers that require you remove an energized screw from the bus bar before you can remove the breaker.

I have only had to do so once, and it was under the supervision of the company electrician where I work. When I'm out by myself, I won't change one of these type breakers because I don't have the tools for it.

If you have the luxury to kill the main then great but in my line of work I simply cannot kill the power to an entire restaurant or even a section just to put in a breaker. It's just not possible.

When you are a professional in a specific trade you do what you is best for you, your company and your customer. If this means replacing a breaker in a live panel that is what you do. I rarely need to shat down a whole panel to simply install a breaker.
I have the knowledge, experience and protection to do a job correctly and safely.

When you are doing several different trade's work you need every bit of protection you can get to help do a job safely.

Irrigardless for the sake of those on the board who do not dabble in this stuff daily, especially for those who have never taken the cover off a service panel, it's best to throw the main.

Necessary? No, but working on it live presents risk that are not present when working on it dead.

Do I swap breakers with the main on? Yes. But I do so at my own risk.