Here is my situation. My hot water will develop a distinctly unpleasant smell. I drain the hotwater heater and the problem goes away for several weeks, only to slowly return. I understand that a "worn out" sac anode can cause this. Is that true?

If so, then how much trouble is it to replace one?

There are several plastic caps on the top of my hotwater heater, so I assume it is under one of them?

Are they specific to make/model of heater?

Here is my situation. My hot water will develop a distinctly unpleasant smell. I drain the hotwater heater and the problem goes away for several weeks, only to slowly return. I understand that a "worn out" sac anode can cause this. Is that true?

If so, then how much trouble is it to replace one?

There are several plastic caps on the top of my hotwater heater, so I assume it is under one of them?

Are they specific to make/model of heater?

The anode rod's located under a large hexagon nut. (see image)
It sounds like some minerals have leeched into your well and have interacted with the magnesium anode rod in your water heater creating hydrogen sulfate gas. The rod is located under the large hex nut on top of your heater. I would also change the anode rod to aluminum. Good luck and thanks for rating my reply. Tom

Thanks for the reply. Is this a one size fits all kind of thing? Also, will a good plumbing store have these?

This is probably a weekend or two away from doing. I'll let you know how it goes.

Hi John:

YUP... most plumbing supply houses will have these in aluminum. Home depot may even have these.

They come in two flavors... solid rod (need 3 ft room above heater to install these) and collapsible... ;) The collapsible are double the cost but great in cases where solid rod will not fit overhead and into tapping for rod.

Good luck!

MARK

Thanks for the info.

John... I should also note here that taking these rods out is not easy. You will need a 1/2" drive socket with correct socket head (1-1/8" or 1-1/16" socket) and a long piece of hard pipe as a persuader to remove the anode rod...

Makes an awful "cracking" sound when it loosens... ;) but all will be fine!

Just a heads up.

See you!

Mark is right on all accounts, I'd go with the rod that has 3 sections to it so it can bend and give you ceiling clearance. If you have any large friends buy some beer and invite them over. The tank will want to twist when you start applying pressure to break loose the hex nut, you can't allow any twisting so here comes your buddies. They can do a big bear hug on the tank and act like a large wrench to stop the rotation. This is not a high skill job do domestic beer should be just fine.

See the Image below for the collapsible anode rod, Thanks.

John

Ball, should I go with light beer or the real deal?:)


BTW, is putting the new one as difficult as removing the old one? I am assuming I will just tape it and screw it in.

Tape and screw it John! Goes in nice and easy!

Bob's info. Is dead on, too... usually takes TWO people to do this. I should have mentioned that... ;) Thanks Bob.

Also, I posted a pic. Of what is more likely for you to see when you REMOVE the old rod... a disintegrated yucky rod. Then there is a pic. Of a solid replacement rod above it.

It would be a good isea to do a POWER FLUSH of the water heater after you are finished. Just attach hose to drain at the base of the water heater and then with heater filled and water on full pressure OPEN the boiler drain and let all sediment drain from heater (about 5 minutes).

Good luck...

MARK

As Mark pointed out you will need a 1/2" drive socket with correct socket head (1-1/8" or 1-1/16" socket). For a single person a impact wrench,(see image) will loosen that sucker right up.and there's no need to hold the tank from turning. Good luck, Tom

I certainly agree with Tom, IF you own a impact wrench. I pride myself on my tools but I don't own one and would need to use a breaker bar and that very well can twist the tank. Then of course I did just need an excuse to get my buddies over here to have a beer.