Happy New Year everybody!

I just bought a second hand mastercraft snowblower, it worked all fine when I tested it with the seller. Unfortunately, I transported the snowblower by put it side sit in my SUV rather than upritht.

After arrived home, I noticed all oil were leaked out, I just added new oil and tried to started the machine. It could not be started by pull rope at all; I then try to start it with electronic starter, I can hear the motor sound when I push the starter butten, but the motor was fully stopped when I release the starter butten.

Can anybody kindly help me to analyze what's wrong with my snowblower, hopefully it's not a serious problem and could by fixed by DIY.

I appreicate for all your answers in advance!

Thanks a lot
John

Nothing. Operator error. Don't store on side.

Get some spray carb cleaner. Take out the plug. Spray carb cleaner in the plug opening. Put rag over opening. Crank until clear.

I'd change the plug, so your starting at a known conditition, but you can clean the plug with carb cleaner too.

Make sure the oil doesn't smell like gas. I'd drain and change for the same reason. Get snowblower formulated oil. Sears has it.

Incidentally, don't use starter fluid in small engines. Use spray carb cleaner as starter fluid.

Nothing. Operator error. Don't store on side.

Get some spray carb cleaner. Take out the plug. Spray carb cleaner in the plug opening. Put rag over opening. crank until clear.

I'd change the plug, so your starting at a known conditition, but you can clean the plug with carb cleaner too.

Make sure the oil doesn't smell like gas. I'd drain and change for the same reason. Get snowblower formulated oil. Sears has it.

Incidently, don't use starter fluid in small engines. Use spray carb cleaner as starter fluid.

Hi, thanks for your quick answer. Sorry, my engine knowledge is almost "0". I have further question regarding your answer
1. I think the plug you mentioned is Spark Plug, is that correct
2. What is the spray carb cleaner, where can I got it? How should I choose it?
3. How to use the Spray carb cleaner? Shall I spray to both the plug and inside the plug cap?

Thanks
Regards
John

1. Spark plug. Plugs are gapped with a gapping tool. The size of the gap should be listed in an application manual that the hardware store has. Same place you'll buy a spark plug.

2. Carb cleaner in a spray form. e.g. Go to AutoZone.com - Get in the Zone! (http://www.autozone.com) and search for ST-253

3. Do the rag thing for this time because you put the engine on it's side.

4. If then engine has trouble starting because of cold etc. You can remove plug. Spray a little carb cleaner in the hole and replace plug and try to start.

Look at the sticky in the beginning of this section for learning how to change oil in a lawnmower. Same principles apply.

This should help even more: http://www.handymanlyness.com/archives/outdoor/power_equipment/snowblower_1/maintenance.html

1. Spark plug. Plugs are gapped with a gapping tool. The size of the gap should be listed in an application manual that the hardware store has. Same place you'll buy a spark plug.

2. Carb cleaner in a spray form. e.g. Goto AutoZone.com - Get in the Zone! (http://www.autozone.com) and search for ST-253

3. Do the rag thing for this time because you put the engine on it's side.

4. If then engine has trouble starting because of cold etc. You can remove plug. Spray a little carb cleaner in the hole and replace plug and try to start.

Look at the sticky in the beginning of this section for learning how to change oil in a lawnmower. Same principles apply.

This should help even more: Snowblower Maintenance - Changing Engine Oil, Cleaning The Spark Plug (http://www.handymanlyness.com/archives/outdoor/power_equipment/snowblower_1/maintenance.html)

Thanks for the detail guide. I have cleaned the plug followed your guide, but the engine still could not be started. Attached is my cleaned plug, do you think it need to be replaced?
Meanwhile, I read another article which said the plug hole should be kept opened for a couple of hrs to let the gas gone, I'll wait for another couple of hrs and try again. It'll be greate and appreciated if you can take a look of the pic of my plug and let me know should it be replace.

Thanks a lot
Regards
John

1. Spark plug. Plugs are gapped with a gapping tool. The size of the gap should be listed in an application manual that the hardware store has. Same place you'll buy a spark plug.

2. Carb cleaner in a spray form. e.g. Goto AutoZone.com - Get in the Zone! (http://www.autozone.com) and search for ST-253

3. Do the rag thing for this time because you put the engine on it's side.

4. If then engine has trouble starting because of cold etc. You can remove plug. Spray a little carb cleaner in the hole and replace plug and try to start.

Look at the sticky in the beginning of this section for learning how to change oil in a lawnmower. Same principles apply.

This should help even more: Snowblower Maintenance - Changing Engine Oil, Cleaning The Spark Plug (http://www.handymanlyness.com/archives/outdoor/power_equipment/snowblower_1/maintenance.html)

Here is another pic of the plug after cleaned

Hi,
The plug looks fairly new, but it is down in that circular recess between the threaded body and center electrode is where they short.
Peace,
Clarke

You did do the:
1. take out plug
2. Spray carb cleaner all around the hole
3. put rag over hole
4. Turn engine over a few times so gunk goes into rag.

OK

Test for fire:
1. take plug out
2. Connect the wire to the top of the plug
3. Get a block of wood and hold plug body (where the threads are) against a good clen part of the engine. No paint
4. Try to start or pull cord
5. Look for regular spark

You did do the:
1. take out plug
2. Spray carb cleaner all around the hole
3. put rag over hole
4. Turn engine over a few times so gunk goes into rag.

OK

Test for fire:
1. take plug out
2. Connect the wire to the top of the plug
3. Get a block of wood and hold plug body (where the threads are) against a good clen part of the engine. No paint
4. Try to start or pull cord
5. Look for regular spark

I did do the first 4 steps above, also did the second 5 steps to test fire, spark looks good, I could see regular blue spark over the medal part of the engine when I push the electronic start button. However, the engine still could not start up after put the plug back. I guess the gas inside the engine has not been completely volatilized. I'll take out the plug and leave the plug hole open over the night and try my luck tomorrow.

Thanks for your help!

John

This doesn't make any sense now. If you just spray a little carb cleaner in the plug hole, replace the plug and try to start, the engine should at lest sputter once or twice.

Can you take a picture of the snowblower?
1. Does it have a primer bulb?
2. Does it have a fuel cock? Is it on?
3. Separate or integral choke?

This doesn't make any sense now. If you just spray a little carb cleaner in the plug hole, replace the plug and try to start, the engine should at lest sputter once or twice.

Can you take a picture of the snowblower?
1. Does it have a primer bulb?
2. Does it have a fuel cock? Is it on?
3. Separate or integral choke?


1. Yes, it does have a primer bulb
2. It has a fule valve, I guess it's the fule cock you mentioned. It was put in on position.
3. It has a choke switch together with the engine, has 0,1/2 full position, it was put in full position.
4. I'll take a picture and upload it tomorrow, it's a bit late in east time area.

Thanks
John

When you try to start it the next time. Use the primer bulb and the choke like you did. If it doesn't kick, remove the plug and inspect to see if it's wet.

This doesn't make any sense now. If you just spray a little carb cleaner in the plug hole, replace the plug and try to start, the engine should at lest sputter once or twice.

Can you take a picture of the snowblower?
1. Does it have a primer bulb?
2. Does it have a fuel cock? Is it on?
3. Separate or integral choke?

Here are pics.
1. Full pic
2. Choke and start/stop switch
3. Fule Valve
4. Spark Plug hole

Thanks
John

When you try to start it the next time. Use the primer bulb and the choke like you did. If it doesn't kick, remove the plug and inspect to see if it's wet.

Thanks for the recommandication. I tried to use the primer bulb a couple of times but not exact last time. I did see the plug was a little wet after my last try, that's why I decided to keep the hole open for a night to get it dry enough.

I start to concern of my engine, :-( hopefully transport mistake might damage the engine and/or the machine.

Thanks for you quick answer and warm help

John

The plug being wet means it's getting gas. The spark generally means it's getting spark. I'd replace the spark plug anyway.

Another possibility is the octane or quality of the fuel. Octane at least mid grade? Is their water in it?

Transporting on it's side should not do any permanent harm.

The plug being wet means it's getting gas. The spark generaly means it's getting spark. I'd replace the spark plug anyway.

Another possibility is the octane or quality of the fuel. Octane at least mid grade? Is their water in it?

Transporting on it's side should not do any permanent harm.

The quality of the gas should be fine. I drained all the stale gas from the gas tank and fill up with new #87 gas ( same as my Toyoa car ).

I almost made it this morning. In my last try, the engine was started up but just stopped immediatelly. I guess I might over prime by push the primer too long time as I could see some gas dripped down from somewhere when I push the primer. I also carefully read the mannual again, looks like the primer is only needed for recoil start, not necessary for electric start. The choke should be kept "OFF" for electric start. It was too rush this morning to give more try, I'll try again follow the mannual step by step in the evening.

Thanks again, your answer and expertise really keeps me peace of mind!

John

So, you flooded it. Makes sense.

For future, don't use 87 octane for small engines. Use at least the mid grade, possibly premium.

So, you flooded it. Makes sense.

For future, don't use 87 octane for small engines. Use at least the mid grade, possibly premium.

No more luck :-( I tried to start it but this time the engine was not up at all. I think the further effort I can try is to buy a new spark plug.

BTW, should the plug be absolutely dry at any time? I just removed the plug and found it's a bit wet again. Does it mean the gas still has not been completely flooded yet?

Thanks
John

Wet is good. You normally troubleshoot with:
1. Is there air (snowthrowers don't have air cleaners)
2. Is there fuel (Is spark plug wet?: Yes)
3. Is there spark?
You did verify spark, but this is about the only possibility for damage. Neutral start switches and all safeties will prevent spark.

If you get all three of these things, then you try a spurt of carb cleaner as starting fluid. If you get even one sputter, then you could have fuel delivery problems.

If you don't, you look for other problems.

Wet is good. You normally troubleshoot with:
1. Is there air (snowthrowers don't have air cleaners)
2. Is there fuel (Is spark plug wet?: Yes)
3. Is there spark?
You did verify spark, but this is about the only possibility for damage. Neutral start switches and all safeties will prevent spark.

If you get all three of these things, then you try a spurt of carb cleaner as starting fluid. If you get even one sputter, then you could have fuel delivery problems.

If you don't, you look for other problems.

1. Is there air? -- Don't know, can you gudie me how to verify
2. Is there fuel? -- Spark plug is wet, does it necessarily mean fuel is still there therefore need more time to vaporize
3. Is there spark? Yes, it was tested that the plug could generate spark?

How do I "try a spurt of carb cleaner as starting fluid" ?

Thnaks
Regards
John

1,2, and 3 you have. This is what's confusing.

Carb cleaner as starting you don't need because the plug is wet.

Another angle:
Could you have tried to start the engine when it was in gear?

1,2, and 3 you have. This is what's confusing.

Carb cleaner as starting you don't need because the plug is wet.

Another angle:
Could you have tried to start the engine when it was in gear?

For the model of my machine, it's always in gear as there is no neutral gear, the gears are speed 1,2... 5 forward, and one "R" gear for reverse. It usuall stays in "R" when the machine is been started.

Thanks

Now I am totally, totally confused.

The speed is at the engine which makes sense. Usually the engine has a speed sensitive clutch, so nothing works until the engine is up to speed and so the tines don't run when starting the engine.

Then there is a transmission, if so equipped.

Then, there normally is a handle that has to be moved to cause the wheels to turn. An ON/OFF so to speak.

Now I am totally, totally confused.

The speed is at the engine which makes sense. Usually the engine has a speed sensitive clutch, so nothing works until the engine is up to speed and so the tines don't run when starting the engine.

Then there is a transmission, if so equipped.

Then, there normally is a handle that has to be moved to cause the wheels to turn. An ON/OFF so to speak.

Sorry, I think I didn't make myself clear. The gear I mentioned is the speed control gear, or maybe I used a wrong word. Anyway, there is a speed control stick can be put in 1,2... 5 and "R" position; It always stays in "R" position when the engine was being started; There is another handler to turn the wheels, I never pushed that handle

Sorry, I think I didn't make myself clear. The gear I mentioned is the speed control gear, or maybe I used a wrong word. Anyways, there is a speed control stick can be put in 1,2...5 and "R" position; It always stays in "R" position when the engine was being started; There is another handler to turn the wheels, I never pushed that handle

Another question is do I need to add "fuel stabilizer"? The seller told me he had added the fuel stabilizer before the first use in this winter, but I drained out all gas from the gas tank to make sure there is no stale gas. Do I need to add the fuel stabilizer again?

I think I'm out of options for you. Besides spark plug, operator error, broken shear pin and no compression for whatever reason I have no idea. I don't know if the engine has a compression release to make it easier to start.

Broken shear pin would mean the timing is off.
Compression is a little harder to check. If you pull the starter by hand slowly there should be some resistance. Briggs engines with a compression release will show virtually no compression unless the engine is turned backwards. WIth electric start, you can always use a compression gauge.

If you have a rubber mallot, try tapping the block.


Is it possible you can ask the guy you bought it from to come over and see if your doing anything wrong?

I think I'm out of options for you. Besides spark plug, operator error, broken shear pin and no compression for whatever reason I have no idea. I don't know if the engine has a compression release to make it easier to start.

Broken shear pin would mean the timing is off.
Compression is a little harder to check. If you pull the starter by hand slowly there should be some resistance. Briggs engines with a compression release will show virtually no compression unless the engine is turned backwards. WIth electric start, you can always use a compression gauge.

If you have a rubber mallot, try tapping the block.


Is it possible you can ask the guy you bought it from to come over and see if your doing anything wrong?

Much appreciated for your help, all useful tips and your patience anyway. Today I tried to dripped a little gas into the plug hole and then started the engine, still didn't work. Same as your point, I also suspect there might be something wrong with the timing stuff. I'll keep checking or ask the professional technician to come down. I'll keep you updated with the final result.

Thanks again.
John

I may have figured out the problem by looking at another post here.
That big red knob is not labeled. It probably has 3 positions. In the position shown it' s OFF, The middle is choke and the right-most is run.

Try putting the throttle to high. All the way up and put the RED knob in the center position. Once the engine starts. Move the choke to the full right position and adjust the speed.

I may have figured out the problem by looking at another post here.
That big red knob is not labeled. It probably has 3 positions. In the position shown it' s OFF, The middle is choke and the right-most is run.

Try putting the throttle to high. All the way up and put the RED knob in the center position. Once the engine starts. Move the choke to the full right position and adjust the speed.

Hi,
I appreciate for your following up and investigation, but it didn't like the root cause of the problem. I had tried all the choke positions to start the engine but no luck a all.

Yesterday I called a small engine technician to come down, he took out some screws/bolts from the carb, did a bit cleaning and put them back, then the engine was easily to be started, but not run stable, just up and down. He then took out the carb back to the shop, he said he needed to completely clean the carb then it should works fine.

Today he called me back, he said he cleaned the carb, and put it to a similar snowblower to test, but still the same, just up and down. He said he suspected there are serious problem with the carb, he would look for an used carb to replace my one, if it still does not work, he will have to order a new one for me.

Looks like my transportation mistake seriously damaged the carb somehow.

BTW, do you know how much does it cost roughly for a small engine carb like the carb of a 4 cycles snowblower( 10 HP )?

Thanks again
John

Hi,
I appreciate for your following up and investigation, but it didn't like the root cause of the problem. I had tried all the choke positons to start the engine but no luck a all.

Yesterday I called a small engine technician to come down, he took out some screws/bolts from the carb, did a bit cleaning and put them back, then the engine was easily to be started, but not run stable, just up and down. He then took out the carb back to the shop, he said he needed to completely clean the carb then it should works fine.

Today he called me back, he said he cleaned the carb, and put it to a similar snowblower to test, but still the same, just up and down. He said he suspected there are serious problem with the carb, he would look for an used carb to replace my one, if it still does not work, he will have to order a new one for me.

Looks like my transportation mistake seriously damaged the carb somehow.

BTW, do you know how much does it cost roughly for a small engine carb like the carb of a 4 cycles snowblower( 10 HP )?

Thanks again
John

I guess the big knob you mentioned is shown in the 3rd pic which is the fuel valve, the position shown in the picture is the "OPEN" position according to the mannual; I had tried the other positions as well anyway, no lucks.

Thanks
Regards
John

I was going to say about $100.
e.g. TECUMSEH CARB PART#632334A FITS MOST 8-10HP SNOW KING - eBay (item 170275665003 end time Jan-29-09 07:27:36 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com/TECUMSEH-CARB-PART-632334A-FITS-MOST-8-10HP-SNOW-KING_W0QQitemZ170275665003QQcmdZViewItem)

Rebuild kits are probably about $15.00.

You probably got a particle of dirt where it's not supposed to be.
Another that causes the surges is the plates not being free to move easily or the float adjustment not being right.

Here's mine, or used to be my father's. It's probably 35 years old. It died about 5 years ago and I finally got it running when these posts were made:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/gardening-plants/mm-snowblower-almost-fixed-143395.html

I still have no dipstick, but with some work, I eventually will.
It had lots of annoying problems:

Carb was flooding. It was the fuel tank and not the carb.
A fuel tank was retrofitted. Tank was changed from metal to plastic.

No fuel shut off valve - added

Pull rope broke.

Engage lever had to be tied into position with rope to use it. Changed castle nut to aircraft nut so that's fixed.

A cotter pin rather tan an unusual split pin in one of the axel drive wheels. The split pin was the same thing. It was an odd size, so 10 of them cost me about $15.00

A little paint. It still needs more.

And a stupid "Hypro key". Sears sold a woodruff key for the blower that would not work. That was like $35.00/5. Special order from a manufacturer.

Got an oil change.

I still have to work on the dip stick. Some cutting/bending and drilling to get it to work.

And I was thinking about teflon lining the chute with bondable teflon such as this: Teflon PTFE Sheet Bondable, .030" Thick 12" x 12" - SmallParts.com (http://www.smallparts.com/Teflon-PTFE-Sheet-Bondable-Thick/dp/B000FPC3W8?ie=UTF8&qid=1231655844&pf_rd_r=0PVDPHMN7XDD19ZT5Q5W&pf_rd_p=467028851&pf_rd_i=0&sr=1-9&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_m=AIUBT5HP6PMAF&pf_rd_t=301)

Usually don't get much snow, but when we do watch out.

I figured that after I fixed it, I wouldn't need it and sure enough, I didn't. I considered that season a success.

Glitch: No electric start or compression release on this model. Electric start conversions are expensive

BTW, Tecumseh shut down their engine division on December 15, 2008. Parts will be in short supply.

Here is an interesting thread (surging): Tecumseh H35 tuning - Small Air Cooled Gasoline Engines (http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32853)