I just got a CEL last night - P0420, catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1).

VERY cold here, in the high single digits. Don't know if that's a factor or not.

Car has 80K miles on it, I replaced the OEM catalytic converter with a highflow cat a few months ago, no CEL was ever thrown until last night.

Scanned the code, then scanned the O2 sensors. The primary shows a nice tight sine curve, like it did a few months ago. The secondary fluctuates much more wildly, as usual, but this time the valleys are much lower than the peaks are high.

Don't have actual number ranges, it was so cold last night I literally could not hold the scanner steady enough to see the numbers clearly.

Does it sound as if I need a new secondary O2 sensor?

Looks that way--go with a Denso. Stay away from Bosch or other generics.

Thanks, why do you say it needs replacing? Irregular voltage output curve?

I've heard about Bosch and other generics, this place I regularly buy parts from has only NGK for the secondary even though they sell NGK and Denso primaries.

The NGK is substantially cheaper than the OEM secondary even from the online dealers that sell at ~ 20% discount. About $100 cheaper.

Is the NGK OK as well in your opinion?

Yes, the curve is indicating a problem. It's either with the sensor (cheaper alternative) or a problem is developing with the cat.

I have no experience with NGK oxygen sensors, but I would not hesitate to use them. I view most Denso and NGK parts as equal quality.

Lord, I hope it's not the (almost brand-new) cat!

Ever heard of this place - MUCH cheaper for the secondary, MORE expensive for the primary, wonder why...

2002 ACURA RSX Oxygen Sensor (http://www.autopart.com/O2Sensor/O22002ACURARSX.htm)

No, I haven't heard of them but that doesn't mean much. Check the price at RockAuto.com. I use them often and can give you a 5% discount code.

Thanks for the offer - I checked rockauto and the $45 secondaries they carry are Delphi and Standard Motor Products parts. Probably likewise for the el cheapo I found at autopart.com. They may not even be heated at that price.

I can get an NGK secondary for $139 at clubrsx.com.

Club RSX.com: NGK Secondary O2 Sensor (http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/NGK-24409-p-EXO2.html)

I know it's OEM quality (NGK) and that seems to be about the best price for OEM style, direct plug-in and heated.

Rock carries the Denso, but it's $180.

Here's the deal. Some Standard parts are actually OEM in disguise for a MUCH cheaper price. You have to check it out closely but I have gotten some excellent buys that way. I bought a Standard MAP Sensor that was a Denso for a fraction of the price. Many of the TEC coils at RockAuto.com are actually Honda OEM parts for 40% of what Honda is asking.

Thanks for the tip - any way to know without ordering the part and waiting to see what arrives?

TEC uses terms like OEM. My understanding is that Standard doesn't really manufacture parts--they just put them in their box. Everything I have bought from Standard has been Denso. RockAuto's pictures also provide tips--the picture of TEC coils I've bought are exactly the same as those from Honda.

Well, for ~ $45, I can hardly go wrong!

Thanks again for the diagnosis and the parts purchasing tips!

One last question - how can I tell if it's direct fit, plug and play?

If it doesn't say generic, it should be P&P.

Do you want the discount code?

Sure, I'll give it a shot - thanks for the code!

Remember, keep all lubricants (like WD40), brake cleaner, etc. from the sensor's pig tail. Otherwise, it will throw a code forever.

In fact, you may want to take a set of jeweler's files and carefully clean the connectors to the old sensor before buying a new one. Slight contamination may be playing with the curve and throwing a code.

Yes, thanks for the tip.

I sprayed some PB Blaster around the threads of both sensors when I R&R'd them and the cat, I think I did it carefully enough as I haven't had a code until now.

Have to be careful with the anti-seize too, usually new sensors are pre-greased.

Apparently road grime and rock salt don't interfere or I'd be SOL!

Let me know how the new sensor works out.

Interestingly, the upstream sensor from Standard is MORE expensive than other sources...

Yes, it's hard to tell what factors go into setting their price. Again, I've never had any problems with Standard products.

There was also a bulletin released by the Wisconsin Vehicle Inspection Program regarding the P0420 code. They listed the following as possible causes for a faulty code being thrown:

• Damaged pre-cat exhaust manifold/catalytic converter/pre-cat exhaust pipe; this can cause too much air to enter the system, interrupting the O2 sensor reading. Modifications to the OEM exhaust system can also throw this code.
• An oxygen sensor; a sensor sending bad info can set the code
• High fuel pressure; this causes the converter to overload with hydrocarbons. Check the pressure both at idle and under load, also check the regulator, injectors & o-rings for any leaks.
• Coolant temperature sensor; this can cause the vehicle to remain in open loop.
• Cylinder misfire; no combustion taking place in the cylinder can cause a large amount of unburned oxygen to pass through the system.

Thanks for that, I actually saw that elsewhere around here.

Based on the fact that I just replaced (within the last six months) the entire exhaust, from head to tailpipe (EXCEPT for the O2 sensors), and had no issues until just now... and for $45... I took an educated leap and will try replacing the sensor.

My bet is that replacing the sensor will work.

Mine too, that's why I ordered it!

It's already shipped, should arrive Friday or Saturday, just in time for our predicted tropical heat wave - up to 50 on Saturday!

May not sound like much to a Texan, but it's been in the single digits and teens lately, with a lot of snow.

At least it will be warm enough for me to replace the sensor.

You have to love the internet. Outfits like RockAuto.com have really shaken-up the auto parts world. Breaks in the weather are really important in the winter for us DIYers.

No doubt - after being initially upset that my Honda had a problem, I was more upset that it manifested in the month of December!

Thank God for the warm weekend - I thought I was done DIYing for the season.

And, of course, I love the internet and what it's done to increase competition and spread knowledge.

But I'll miss my local auto parts store buddies if they ever go out of business - and they appear to be fighting for their lives...

Are you using synthetics in the engine and transmission?

You betcha - Mobil 1 5W-20 in the summer, 0W-20 in the winter, Amsoil MTF year 'round.

I still get the 2nd gear grind, even after Acura replaced the synchros. But it's better than it was with Honda MTF.

Perfect! You have to love Amsoil's MTF in these cars--what a difference, especially in winter.

Oh, for a moment there I thought you were going to say otherwise!

Hoping this car lasts ~ 500K or so miles, LOL!

No. Using synthetics is the key to trouble-free engines and transmissions. It also helps prevent problems with emission control systems.

Yes, I thought so too. But I doubt this K-series transmission will be trouble-free, sadly. I don't know what happened when Honda designed it, even Civic Si owners have issues with it almost ten years after it was introduced.

Amsoil's MTF protects the synchros much better than other oils. Many other fluids don't adequately safeguard the soft yellow metals in the synchros.

I had my transmission apart a year ago, at ~ 70K miles, to install a limited slip differential.

A buddy with mechanic experience (student) examined it and proclaimed it the cleanest used transmission he's ever seen.

I frequently think differently when driving it, especially in cold weather.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y79/paulkramer/DSC00256.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y79/paulkramer/DSC00257.jpg

Beautiful pictures! You've got to love how clean synthetic oil keeps everything. You could eat off that.

Thanks - yes, pretty clean, but as special as Amsoil is, I wouldn't want to ingest any of it!

I use the Amsoil and PureOne premium oil filters in my 16 year old Civic, along with Mobil 1 or Amsoil engine oil. Cam still meets new engine specs. The A/C compressor, distributor housing, and ECM have been the only major components to fail. Half axles have been repacked with new boots.

Now that's what I like to hear!

How many miles on said Civic!

I almost bought a Civic, sometimes wish I did, the RSX has some issues. I've already replaced the starter and TCT tensioner (grinding noise on startup, turned out to be the starter but the tensioner was DIRTY), had the trans serviced under the 2nd gear grind TSB, replaced the driver door power lock actuator, the climate control transistor (died last spring, prevented ANY air from flowing through the HVAC), replaced the moonroof panel because of the rusty frame (very common problem, even on new RSXs). I think a couple of other problems that escape me at the moment.

Had I not bought the RSX, I might have not been bitten by the mod bug, which has sucked up a considerable amount of my income. After installing three or four sets of lowering springs, I am back to OEM + Koni Sports! Michigan is no place for lowering springs. Some of the other mods resulted in some unnecessary aggravation, such as the inverted tie rod ends that started to crumble after a few months, resulting in a horrid banging noise that took a lot of time and aggravation to finally find and resolve.

All in all, I love the car, although driving this transmission in the winter requires considerable patience and babying.

Almost 125,000 miles. Most of the mileage goes on our 2000 Taurus these days. My wife used to drive a '94 Accord EX but traded it at 80,000 miles.

That's not much at all, LOL. My brother drives my '98 Intrigue with ~ 260K miles on it. Original 3800 engine, albeit with a new upper intake manifold. Thought the car was a junker when it hydrolocked after the TB coolant bypass passage cracked. Shadetree African mechanic saved that car for me. It's on its third or fourth transmission though. I used Mobil 1 in that car too.

2000 Taurus! Still on the road! How many transmissions has it been through? You apparently don't rack up too many miles too quickly on your vehicles.

The Taurus just turned over 100,000 miles today. Original transmission--always used Amsoil or Mobil 1 ATF.

Congrats - my wife had a late 90's Taurus, she didn't maintain it very carefully, to put it mildly.

That trans only made it to 90-something.

I pretty much insisted that her next car be a Honda or Toyota. She chose the latter, 2003 Corolla. No substantive problems other than the notorious (among Corolla owners) serpentine tensioner.

Automatic transmissions are the weak link on many FWD cars. Good preventive maintenance is a must.

What has impressed me lately is how durable Ford PSD and F150 truck transmissions are--most ranchers I know use them. I seen many seriously abused and still going strong. American products are under-rated.

I have called Rock Auto several times. They have great people on the phones and can probably tell the manufacturer on their toll free line.

Automatic transmissions are the weak link on many FWD cars. Good preventive maintenance is a must.

What has impressed me lately is how durable Ford PSD and F150 truck transmissions are--most ranchers I know use them. I seen many seriously abused and still going strong. American products are under-rated.

Well, American trucks are the American manufacturer's strong point, have been pretty much all along...

Yes, FWD transaxles are weak, especially Ford and GM, maybe Chrysler too.

What do you do for preventive maintenance on these apart from changing fluid and/or filters? How often do you change fluid/filters?

I drop and clean the pan, install a B&M drain plug, change the filter, and refill with Amsoil or Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. I change the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles.

Here's a trick I use to service the heck out of my vehicles: leave the hood open, when they are in the garage. It beckons me to come over and check on things and get involved. It also encourages me to keep the engine compartments clean and check on things regularly.

Funny you mention the drain plug - American FWD transaxles don't have drain plugs, as if they know they won't last long enough for fluid changes to be worthwhile!

Wife's Corolla has a drain plug, pretty sure my mother-in-law's Honda Odyssey has one too.

Here's a trick I use to service the heck out of my vehicles: leave the hood open, when they are in the garage. It beckons me to come over and check on things and get involved.

Gettting married worked for me - any excuse to get out of the house. Garage is the closest place.

I'm sure she's on to you. Yes, not installing a transmission drain plug is pretty lame. Many imports are doing it now, too.

Santa (RockAuto.com) just delivered a package. Yep, it's a radiator hose (KM4635) I've been waiting for. Ford wanted $83, RockAuto sold it for $48.79. I told the Ford rep that I have never heard of a radiator hose costing that much money. He said he has some going for $200! This was the most difficult part I've ever tried to run down. Just finding out what the part no. was for the hose was difficult. Nobody had good information on this hose for my Duratec engine. I kept my fingers crossed that I ordered the correct one.

Yes, my car-modding phase began right after "I do" came out of my mouth, LOL.

What brand of hose is it?

I wish I had a dollar for every time I've said "how much did you say it costs?!"

I have to wait until the day after Christmas to see what Santa/Rock brings me in the way of O2 sensors. Just as well - now the ~ 2' of snow on the ground is becoming a slushy mess. Have to clean it up before it melts and re-freezes.

Motorcraft.

motorcraft.

Ha! :d

Just because I have too much time on my hands, I noticed in one of your other posts that you posted a link to Advanced Auto Parts' website. So I did some price-checking.

Advance wants $250 for THE SAME PART (Standard Auto SG911) that I paid $45 for at Rock Auto! They also claim the list price for the sensor is over $400 - not even the online Honda dealers charge that much for the sensor!

I guess it pays to shop around!

My O2 sensor is somewhere on a FedEx truck, to be delivered to me today.

Do you know if Rock sends items "signature required", or does it vary?

I want to run some other errands today, but I don't want to miss the delivery, especially if FedEx won't leave the package in my absence.

RockAuto (FedEx) has never required a signature from me.

Got it!

Looks just like OEM, but can't tell what brand it is. Made in Japan, has following markings:

Nearest the wires - "OHK:::563-H4, on one flange - "NTK:Japan, on the hexagonal/nut portion - "6F12".

NTK - sounds like a knock-off of NGK...

What's the verdict?

Would be nice if I could easily compare the markings to the original sensor that's on the car now.

It sounds like you got a coup for a fraction of the price. That's how it has been on all Standard products I've bought from RockAuto.com. They just put the components in their boxes and sell them much cheaper. I've never had any problems with their parts.

Never mind, I just googled "NTK", for some reason that's the name brand NGK uses for their O2 sensors.

Couldn't verify any markings with the part nos. on their website, but it looks as if I have an NGK O2 sensor for $50 (shipped)!

Thanks again!

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/results.asp

And, it looks like you just saved me ~ $130!

What's your cut?

The satisfaction of knowing that you are happy!

Well, thanks again!

Here's where I almost bought it, even from this website it would have been a savings compared to dealership, but not nearly as good a deal as I wound up with.

Club RSX.com: NGK Secondary O2 Sensor (http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/NGK-24409-p-EXO2.html)

The difference is HUGE!! The best quality for the best price (delivered to your door)--Merry Christmas.

Yes, it's a big difference indeed - but check this out, from an online Honda/Acura dealer:

HONDA PARTS UNLIMITED... YOUR SOURCE FOR OEM HONDA AND ACURA PARTS AND ACCESSORIES!!! (http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/scacura/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?catcgry1=RSX&catcgry2=2002&catcgry3=3DR+BASE+LEATHER&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=EXHAUST+PIPE-MUFFLER&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=Electrical%2FExhaust%2FHeater%2FFuel&prdrefno=&quantity=0&act=&count=0&hidSwitch=Switch&hidIrno=%7C026)

And I KNOW my local Honda dealer would charge > $300 for the part!

Thanks! Cluing me in about Rock Auto and Standard Auto Parts is a great Christmas gift indeed!

Yes, it's pretty scary. The only thing scarier would be the associated labor charge.

I hope my primary holds out - there is no such savings on the primary at Rock Auto - they want more for the primary than clubrsx, about $100 more!

Interesting...

Yes, it's pretty scary. The only thing scarier would be the associated labor charge.

Oh, yes, one member on clubrsx said he was quoted an hour or two labor for an O2 sensor replacement.

At least with the internet, the choices are so much better than years ago. It all becomes a game. I've been fortunate to have been able to keep both of our cars going for very little--still, top performance and reliability. All part of the "game of life." "Buy it new, wear it out; make it do, do without."--Old New England saying.

Got it!

Looks just like OEM, but can't tell what brand it is. Made in Japan, has following markings:

Nearest the wires - "OHK:::563-H4, on one flange - "NTK:Japan, on the hexagonal/nut portion - "6F12".

NTK - sounds like a knock-off of NGK......

What's the verdict?

Would be nice if I could easily compare the markings to the original sensor that's on the car now.

So far, so good. I haven't taken the car anywhere, but I started it up to move it. Feels better than ever, probably just the "new part factor".

It looks identical to the replacement part, albeit with slightly different markings. The "OHK:::563-H4" is imprinted on both, the "NTK:Japan" is either not on the OEM part or worn beyond the point of being visible, and the "6F12" imprint on the hexagonal portion says "2F16" or "2F18" on the original part. Maybe that refers to a production batch.

Now that I've replaced that, I'm itching to replace the primary. It's not throwing any codes yet and my fuel mileage is still good. But I've replaced the entire exhaust system and if I could find a comparable deal on a primary I'd just replace it for good measure and know that the entire exhaust is fresh.

I like that feeling, too--where you know everything is new and as good as it gets.

Now I read somewhere that re-branded parts aren't always the correct part - that sometimes the cheapest part that fits - in this case, the cheapest Honda secondary sensor - is sold for multiple applications, including those that aren't absolutely correct.

Have you ever run into that situation?

I have NEVER had that problem. Like you concluded, the price differential was worth the slight risk. I doubt you will have any problems. Some people try to cast aspersions, in order to maintain profit margins.

Standard has been around for probably 60 years or more. By nature, I'm a bargain hunter and I believe you got a tremendous deal--accept and enjoy it. I buy car parts and lubricants that are often free after rebate. It makes me enjoy them more, not less. The challenge is to keep a car on the road for years, with like new performance and reliability, for very little money. That's what I have always been able to do. I shop for deals on everything.

Yeah, I know there are many possible motivations for spreading aspersions. They may only be misinformed, not even casting aspersions.

I'd just be more assured if the actual NGK part no. were stamped on the part!

Not even the part I removed has the part no. stamped anywhere on it.

Funny how the Standard primary is far from the least expensive primary available. Looks like the least expensive primary is ~ $180.

Amazon.com sells the Standard parts, along with the usual other brands - Denso, NGK, Beck-Arnley, Sng...

It's mind-boggling how these parts are distributed and priced!

Eh, time to think about something else for a while!

Oh, forgot to add - is there that much difference between the primary and the secondary to justify such a large price differential?

I know they're not exactly the same, but they both measure and compare oxygen levels...

I don't know enough to say for sure, but I'm skeptical. It may have more to do with supply and demand. There's greater demand for primary sensors, so they can probably charge more.

We don't have too much to complain about. Maintaining a car is so much easier and cheaper in this country versus Europe, for instance. In Europe, you won't find auto part stores. You have to go to the dealer for parts and they are very expensive. An ECM for a Civic might cost the equivalent of $2,400 in England versus $250 to $1,000 here.

I was thinking the same thing about the relative demand for the primary vs. secondary - I am surprised that I am replacing the secondary before replacing the primary!

Well, you are correct about the price differential USA vs. Europe - but, I complain anyway! In Europe, they have real mass transit. Here, I HAVE to have a car, even though my job is only two miles from my home! Seems a bit expensive to maintain a car for such little usage. Of course, I use it for more than just commuting, but that's the primary reason I have a car.

The cost of buying and maintaining a car is so much less than in Europe. When I return from Europe, even Wal-Mart's automotive department looks great to me. It seems like everybody in Europe is trying to rip the next guy off, in order to get ahead. Virtually everything is way overpriced.

Well, out of curiosity, I went out and started the car with the scope attached.

Once it warmed up enough for the idle to reach normal (750) RPM, the O2 sensors basically flatlined at .6 V for the primary and .9 V for the secondary.

Aren't they supposed to switch back and forth between higher and lower voltages, and not remain constant?

Looks darn near perfect. Voltage will change slightly, based on demands. The new secondary solved the problem.

OK, I'm confused - I thought sensor voltage is supposed to switch back and forth across the magic .45 value, several times each second!

OK, just to add to the mix (no pun intended), A/F ratio sensors are different than O2 sensors, in that they produce a steady voltage, typically in the 2.2 - 4.2 volt range, not a rapidly fluctuating voltage. (Motor, Feb. 2000)

My "primary O2 sensor" is in fact an A/F ratio sensor.

The cold doesn't have anything to do with it o2sersors have a heating element in it espically foreign cars that's what the 4 wires are for , change our o2sensor and it should solve the problem... o car has to be driven about 10miles after insalling it before reading it again so take a little cruise also

Thanks for the response...

I did drive the car for ~ 20 minutes this afternoon, then looked at the two sensors' voltages.

The primary still showed a relatively flat output in the vicinity of .6 volts, the secondary was much more variable, but on average lower than .5 volts. It looked like a heart monitor or sine curve, more what I would expect from an O2 sensor.

The primary is an A/F sensor, heated of course, and based on what I've read about A/F sensors, they should maintain a relatively constant voltage (subject to changing conditions of course), unlike the old school sensors that crossed over several times per second and only averaged a constant voltage.

The CEL has stayed off, hasn't it, and it runs great?

Yes to both questions. I am just trying to understand how these things work, and to optimize my performance/efficiency.

It was running fine with the CEL, though the weather and road conditions were so bad I wasn't driving as vigorously as I normally do.

The CEL went away after I cleared it with the scanner and didn't return. It was only a few days before I replaced the sensor, so maybe it would have returned, maybe not.

It was 80K miles old and only $50, so I figured I might as well replace it.

Well, I couldn't stand it, so I went and ordered a new primary from Rock - best price I could find, $180 shipped. I've already received an offer of $20 shipped for my 80K mile old original primary!

It arrived today, but I wasn't home so FedEx wouldn't leave it in my screen door, even though there was no signature required.

Hoping my performance and fuel economy improve even more with the new primary. If not, preventive maintenance.

Thanks again, txgreasemonkey. Both sensors for ~ $225 (maybe ~ $200, if I sell the original), vs. $600 from the dealership!

Sorry to bring this back from the dead. But the CEL came on again today, same P0420 code.

Random Tech, the manufacturer of the highflow cat I have installed, says this is common because their converters flow better than OEM.

I'm confused - the secondary 02 sensor usually triggers a P0420 if the cat is clogged - which would result in less exhaust flow.

So in one case the code is set from decreased exhaust flow and in the other case from increased exhaust flow. I know the sensor measures the oxygen, but I don't understand how two opposite conditions can result in the same code being set.

Anyone?

Did you ever rule out the other possibilities I suggested back in December?

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/p0420-code-2002-acura-rsx-295118-2.html#post1444794

No, other than checking the exhaust for damage (I replaced the entire system, head to tailpipe, last summer, and I just finished it off with new OEM A/F primary and O2 secondary).

And, in light of the fact that I installed a highflow cat and it started to throw this code when winter's cold temperatures arrived, and this is a common occurrence with highflow cats... well, it seems to me that the highflow cat is causing the code. Even the manufacturer says it is a common occurrence with their parts.

And - the code was thrown once, back when I started this thread, about one or two months ago. I cleared it, replaced the primary and secondary and it hasn't returned again until today.

Seems those other potential causes would cause the CEL/code to be much more consistent, no?

Seems those other potential causes would cause the CEL/code to be much more consistent, no?

Yes, but the same could be said about the converter. They've all been functioning each time you've driven the car and it's been a month since the last occurence; so why the change?

Good question.

And IDK if a P0420 gets thrown instantaneously, or if the inefficiency has to be detected X no. of times before the CEL comes on...

Not positive on that. I've seen lights get set as soon as a sensor is unplugged, although the light will go out on it's own after the problem has been corrected and the vehicle runs through a certain number of drive cycles.

I believe it varies from code to code as well - some are instantaneous and others are not.

Yeah. I'd say check out those other things, just to be on the safe side. Everyone has varying opinions on highflow converters; some say they're great while others say there's no difference and that they're not worth the money.

Well, they're not OEM, and as such there is always potential for some issue, be it fitment or compatibility with a tightly constrained computer logic.

Strup makes an $18 defouler/extension - provided I don't break something while installing it it seems like a very cheap potential fix.

I notice a difference with the highflow, and with a K20A3 I need all the help I can get.

Price! I paid $400, sold my OEM with 80K miles to a scrapper for $100. A lot cheaper than an OEM catcon... I think dealerships want $800 - $1,100 for the cat for my car.

Ouch! It's ridiculous what they sell a piece of metal for these days. Did the old one need replacement or you just wanted to upgrade?

Well, let's say the desire to upgrade was the driving force...

I had already replaced all the other exhaust components - I got a great deal on a shorty header, then I broke my catback removing it to gain access to the catcon heat shield bolts (heat shield was rotting out and rattling something fierce), so I replaced my catback - two or three times. First one was a Taiwanese junker, second one was that company's attempt at resolving the first one's issues, third I finally ponied up the extra money for a quality exhaust. So I wanted to finish it off, once I realized the cat was now the bottleneck.

I rationalized the expense by telling myself the car had 80K miles and would need a new converter soon - or at least eventually. :p

I rationalized the expense by telling myself the car had 80K miles and would need a new converter soon - or at least eventually. :p

And then you complain when us women want to go shopping ;)

And then you complain when us women want to go shopping ;)

Have we met?

I always like to say to women - try riding that Marc Jacobs purse to work, or to the mall for that matter!

Keeping my car up, maybe a bit more than that, also helps fight the urge to buy a new car, which I think would be even more expensive than adding a few frills.

Are you really a woman? Hanging out in the Cars & Trucks section?

Sure am :) I work at an auto repair shop; I know more about selling a car than repairing it, but I like to try and help out with what I've picked up over the years.

I agree on the Marc Jacobs purse idea; my weakness is shoes but I refuse to drop more than $30 on one pair! On the other hand, I'm always telling my husband that no, our truck DOESN'T need an upgrade(DVD player, rims, etc.) :)

Wow - a fantasy girl... works in auto repair... someone I could actually TALK to! :D

I haven't added anything like rims (other than a spare set for summer/winter tires thing) or audio system - just things that improve performance or need periodic replacement.