Not sure if I've summarized the issue exactly right, but my downstairs, outside unit keeps switching off the past several days. I will feel air coming out of my registers but it isn't very warm. I have to go outside several times a day to push the red button to fire up the outside unit. Once I do that I feel warm air again.

I've been reading as much as I can about this problem on here and have come across the following possibilities:

1. Dirty air filter.
2. Dirty coil.
3. Obstruction of air flow/closed registers.
4. Bad blower.
5. Over charged system.

I have cleaned the filter and have even pulled out a bunch of junk from the inside coil. I read something about a spray cleaner but I only pulled out what I could. I'm able to see through the inside coil fins so I'd say it is most likely clean enough. At least it is hard to imagine it being the source of the problem.

All my registers are wide open and the air flow seems fairly consistent out of them all.

I have no idea if my blower is bad or not running fast enough. Like I said, the air coming out of my registers doesn't seem any different that it has always been.

Now, I will say that this last July the outside coil was completely replaced (under home warranty). I live in southwest VA so we do get warm summers but this last one wasn't unbearable. After the coil was replaced the air flow was cool again and all seemed to be well. I don't recall running the AC too often and certainly not very long. We do get pretty cold winters though and this past week we've been in the 20's to 40's.

From what I've read so far from other people who've had a similar problem it isn't uncommon for an over charged situation to express itself until it starts getting really cold. The high pressure switch won't trigger until the heat pump is trying to warm the house.

I've got the same company who replaced the outside coil coming out tomorrow and I've already explained my theory that it may be an over charge situation. I am not one to try and get something for nothing but if they over charged the system when they installed the outside coil then it seems (from what I've been reading) that there's a good chance I wouldn't have known about the issue until I started trying to warm my house. If that's the case then I may just be a victim of bad timing since the repairs were made in July and the company only warranties their work for 30 days. I wouldn't say that it is shady, but it does seem unfair if that is the problem. I certainly can't charge the system myself.

Anyway, are there any other possibilities that could account for what I'm seeing? I'm going to have to pay $80 just to have them come out and look so I figure I best get the most for my $$. What should I expect them to check in an over charge situation and what else should I ask them to look at while they're hear that could be related?

Sorry for the super long post. I just don't want this drug out longer than it needs and want to know that when they're here they're taking my concerns seriously and want to be part of the solution.

The device that you are resetting is referred to as a high-pressure cut-out. These can trip once in a blue moon for no apparent reason; sounds like you have a new hobby. Something beyond the garden-variety problem is occurring. The sooner you call in a pro, the better.

The device that you are resetting is referred to as a high-pressure cut-out. These can trip once in a blue moon for no apparent reason; sounds like you have a new hobby. Something beyond the garden-variety problem is occurring. The sooner you call in a pro, the better.

Yeah, I figured. They're on their way. Any ideas what I could expect? How do they correct an over charge? Do they just capture some quantity of coolant to bring it to the correct level?

The system operating pressures will likely tell the story. The high pressure cut-out can come into play in either heating or cooling. If this is only occurring in the heating mode, my suspicions would prompt me to check for indoor coil airflow starvation, substantial refrigerant overcharge, or a restriction of the refrigerant metering device that is used in the heating mode. Another possibility is that the unit is not terminating defrost in a timely manner.

The system operating pressures will likely tell the story. The high pressure cut-out can come into play in either heating or cooling. If this is only occurring in the heating mode, my suspicions would prompt me to check for indoor coil airflow starvation, substantial refrigerant overcharge, or a restriction of the refrigerant metering device that is used in the heating mode. Another possibility is that the unit is not terminating defrost in a timely manner.

Excellent! I'll be sure to ask about these possibilities when they come tomorrow. Hopefully I'll get an answer tomorrow. Thanks!

The system operating pressures will likely tell the story. The high pressure cut-out can come into play in either heating or cooling. If this is only occurring in the heating mode, my suspicions would prompt me to check for indoor coil airflow starvation, substantial refrigerant overcharge, or a restriction of the refrigerant metering device that is used in the heating mode. Another possibility is that the unit is not terminating defrost in a timely manner.

Well the technician came out and determined that I have a faulty cut-out switch. He measured the pressure and it was 220 head and 35 suction (does that seem like the right levels?). He bypassed the switch for now and recommended replacing it with a tee & universal switch. He said it is better in that it won't require me to go out and reset it manually (if necessary) and will cost less than the factory cut-out switch. Total came to $81 for today's visit and when I'm ready for the new part another $100 (part, labor).

Any potential issue with going to a different style switch? It all sounded good to me but would appreciate any other opinions if any.

Thanks!

The biggest issue with that repair option is that it will save you the expenses associated with the process of replacing the OEM switch. Feel free to express your displeasure to the technician if this upsets you.:p Costs quoted sound very reasonable, especially if that incorporates some type of recycle time-delay device... did he mention that?

The biggest issue with that repair option is that it will save you the expenses associated with the process of replacing the OEM switch. Feel free to express your displeasure to the technician if this upsets you.:p Costs quoted sound very reasonable, especially if that incorporates some type of recycle time-delay device...did he mention that?

That's one issue I can live with. Thanks again for the follow-up. He didn't mention anything about a time-delay device.

Hmm... the potential problem without a recycle delay is attempted re-start before pressures equalize. You'll trade-in the reset exercise for replacing fuses. 'Tis possible that the unit already has one and the tech plans to wire the new switch through it.

Please give your opinion on what is going on when it is on the cooling side? Please help. Could it be an over charged sitution? I just had it charged after a pin size hole was repaired that released all of my refrigeration. It uses R22 refrigerant. It has sky rocketed in price since all the new regulations have gone into effect!!

I'm having similar issues, having to manually re-set the hi-pressure cutout switch. My technician informs that my air handler ductwork is too large and needs to be reduced to a 10"x10" area to conform to Rheem guidelines. It has been the same size as the air-handler box, about 24"x24" for 9 years without issue. He says there is not enough back pressure on the air handler coils to keep the refridgerant pressure down, but wouldn't this lower air flow enhance the problem, since less heat is removed from the freon? I'm a bit confused on this.