How much is a 1934 dollar bill worth?

If it was 1934 the bill would be virtually worthless but it's 2008 and the bill would be basically a collector's item worth much more than $1 face value.

Is there any online resources that can explain (simply) one dollar bills?

History, collectible or not, possible value, etc.

Hi, a5790papa!

Flying Blue Eagle is a person on this site who has the current documentation concerning the possible monetary value of such things. As such, I'm sure that he will be along eventually to address your post.

In the meantime, and as per Flying Blue Eagle's request, it would be helpful if you would post the following information concerning the currency that you have. I know that you have already provided some of the information that is asked for in the quote that is below.


#1 - Series date, Example 1935, 1935A ,1935B, etc.
#2 - Signatures - Example - Priest -Anderson
#3 - Color of seal,- color of serial numbers, Is there a star before or after the serial numbers, what color?
#4 - What is written above on the very top, Example - SILVER CERTIFICATE<Federal reserve notes, treasury or coin notes. Legal tender notes, etc. etc.

Thanks!

What the paper money is worth monetarily will also greatly depend on the graded condition of them. Do you know what the graded condition of it is?

If you might not, then what is below should be helpful to you. Flying Blue Eagle will also need to know what the possible graded condition of it is.

What is posted below is quoted from the following site and is for paper currency. 1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money? (http://www.faqs.org/faqs/coin-collecting/paper-money-faq/section-15.html)

1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money?

The condition of a note is critical to its value. Lowering the
grade of a note one notch can decrease its value by 1/3 or even
1/2. An expensive note which falls between two categories might
be worth a thousand dollars more in the higher category than the
lower one. Thus, it's often important to be more precise than
using a limited number of categories.

But here's a general guideline. Note that many dealers have
slightly different grading systems, especially with various
sub-grades of uncirculated. There's no official system of grading,
unfortunately. But these are pretty much universally accepted.
I've received a lot of input and tried to hammer out the best
descriptions for each category.

Crisp Uncirculated, UNC or CU: This means absolutely not the
slightest sign of any handling or wear or folding or *anything*.
Some people use additional grades to distinguish qualities such
as perfect centering or other printing characteristics. Certainly
a note which has centering problems which are visible from a
distance of 1 meter (3 feet) should have this mentioned in the
condition description.

Almost Uncirculated (or About Uncirculated), AU: This means there
is a slightly detectable imperfection such as a counting fold on one
corner or slightest fold in the center (nothing which breaks the
surface of the paper) or a pinhole. At first glance it looks like
an UNC note.

Extremely Fine, EF or XF: Generally three light folds or one strong
fold which breaks the surface. There may be slight rounding at the
corners.

Very Fine, VF: May have several folds although the note is still
crisp and has a minimum of dirt. There may be minor tears or very
small holes but nothing which distracts from the overall appearance
of the note. Take an uncirculated note and crumple it once in your
hand, then flatten it out: this is a Very Fine note. Repeat the
crumpling and it's still pretty much a VF note.

Fine, F: A circulated note where individual folds and creases may
no longer be visible. To distinguish this from a VF note, when
inspecting a Fine note, it clearly does not look like a note which
has merely been crumpled a few times: It doesn't have the crispness
and brightness of a VF note. No tears may extend into the printing.
This is your average in-the-wallet note.

Very Good, VG: Tears and small holes can be present. The note is
not crisp at all. The is your lower quality in-the-wallet note.
Lots of people on the 'net don't realize that a note in "very good"
condition is really pretty lousy.

Good, G: Small pieces missing, graffiti. A worn out note.

Fair: Major tears, etc. A badly worn out note.

Poor: Even worse.

To grade a note precisely, it can help to hold the note about
20 cm (7 inches) under a strong light source (use the same source
for comparing notes) and on top of a white piece of paper and
use a 3x or 4x power magnifying glass. Make sure your hands are
clean before handling a note. This method will show a lot of
minor imperfections which are not normally visible.

Note that note from many countries have standard features which
exist for even Uncirculated notes. Some notes from Bangladesh,
Bhutan, Burma/Myanmar, India, Nepal, and Pakistan are only found
with staple holes where staples are always used to hold packs of
notes together. Most dealers list Uncirculated notes of this type
as having the usual staple holes (often abbreviated as uSH-UNC).

Also, some notes printed in France (for about 15 different
countries) have a slight crinkle effect.

Is there any online resources that can explain (simply) one dollar bills?

History, collectible or not, possible value, etc.?

Hi, Caribou!

This site right here is an online resource, especially since we have an Expert like Flying Blue Eagle who loves to research and discuss collectible coins and currency!

I just now noticed the first question because these sort of questions are usually posted in Collectibles.

You've asked a separate question from the first one. This place doesn't work the same way that a chat room does. I would suggest that you start a new and separate thread over in the Collectibles forum topic area so that your question will be recognized as being your own.

This thread is also likely to be moved to Collectibles.

Thanks!

Twinkiedooter - Guerss what , Don't UNDER ESTIMENT THE OLDER PAPER CURRENCY :: HAVE A LOOK SEE < FROM THE 2008 RED BOOK ON CURRENCY VALUES::IN 1934 there was only one series ,NO SERIES LETTER AFTER DATE,:{ SERIES 1934_BLUE SEAL-THE SIGNATURES ARE - JULIAN & MORGENTHAU
#1606> VF-20- $ 20.00::UNC-63-$75.00:::
#1606*-VF-20 $75.00:: UNC-63- $ 650.00}JUST,thought you would like some information on ( OLD MONEY ) :I WONDER IF YOU EVER PASSED ON A OLD THAT WAS Really VAULABLE AND Didn't KNOW IT :: THERE ARE SEVERAL OTHER PAPER CURRENCY ( THAT EVEN IS MORE-MORE MORE VALUABLE then ( SAIMOY ) F.B.E.

Saimoy- Don't ever think that old mo ney & coins (ARE NOT WORTH ANYTHING) Because they are ,The ones you have are valued at the following values _ out of the 2008 RED BOOK ON VALUES OF USA PAPER CURRENCY:: FIRST A LITTLE HISTORY:: IN the series date of 1934, there was only one printing of a series date , NO LETTER AFTER
THE date ,like 1934, 1934A,1934B;ECT; NOW
#1606. VF-20- $ 20.00 - UNC-63 $ 75.00 :::
#1606 * $ 75.00 - $ 650.00
The signatures are JULIAN & MORGENTHAU
BLUE SEAL :: I hope this helps you out: HAPPY NEW YEAR:: F.B.E.

Have you obtained the 2009 Red Book on Values of U.S.A. Paper Currency, F.B.E. Is it even available yet?

Thanks!

CLOUGH - tried to get the 2009 book last week, while in the big city from BOOKS A MILLION and they didn't have them in yet , I go back to DR. FRIDAY SAND IM GOING TO GO BACK BY AND HOPE THEY ARE IN . I hope the weather is'nt to bad still up your way, they are saying that tonight we will have snowe flurres, but it won't stay long not even long enough to have snow cream . Stay safe and GOD BLESS :: F.B.E.

Thanks, F.B.E.

Kind of cold up here and some of the ice remains. No big snow after the last one. Will look forward to you getting the 2009 book!

God Bless You, Too!