Hi All-

I noticed that very recently we have a leak develop from our 2nd floor shower stall. This bathroom is situated above the garage. I have not yet taken anything apart nor cut into the garage ceiling. The leak does not seem to be severe, but has caused minor water damage (pictures attached) in a circular pattern.

The shower itself is a one-piece acrylic unit, originally installed when the house was built in 2000, with no visible joints/seems inside where the shower wall meet the floor.

I'm trying to figure out if a drain replacement kit (like they sell at wingtite.com) would take care of my issue or if I need to have a professional come in.

I welcome any input you may have on if/how to make the repair myself or advice and expected cost of a professional repair.

Thanks,

Josh

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If the shower floor gives and flexes a bit as you step into it you have a ruptured drain seal. Take a square out of the ceiling and check to see if you have a drain leak. If you see moisture on the trap or raiser then 8loosen the large nut on the drain, (see image). Raise the drain a bit and clean out the old seal. Lift the drain lip and run a small rope of plumbers putty or silicon jel around the lip of the drain and reinstall it. This is caused by the installer not bedding the base properly by puddling mortar or cement under the base for support. If you can get to the underside of the base I would suggest bedding it so this doesn't happen again in the future. Simply puddle cement or mortar around the drain and the center of the floor and let it6 set up before stepping back into it. Good luck and thank you for rating my reply. Tom

Thank you for posting series of photos visually describing your plumbing problem... Photos are always a great help and allow us to get directly to the point.

Judging from your photos, it appears to be very small drip, possibly from the shower drain. Trap should be glued, therefore completely sealed. These drains, used for pre-fab shower units are common source of ceiling leaks. Proceed according to Tom's instructions in the above post...

However, Once you cut open ceiling, you will see right away where is the leak coming from.

Glad you were able to fix your plumbing problem using our advice..

I didn't get it fixed just yet. ;-) I cut a hole in the ceiling & removed the insulation. I can clearly see the trap and the underside of the drain, but I can't get the nut off. It won't budge.

Any suggestions on how to loosen it? Its too large and there isn't enough room for any kind of wrench I have...

The hole I cut is 8" X 14" to give you scale. These are pictures of where I'm at in the process:
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You will have to cut that hole bit bigger to get tools inside. Here are few or your options:

1. Use large channel locks
2. Use large basin-like wrench
3. Use belt wrench
4. If any conventional tool fails then: To undo the nut you can take sharp wood chisel, put it on the plastic nut under angle and gently keep topping it until the nut snaps. Do the same thing on the opposite side of the cut.

It may be easier for you to work in that confined area if you cut off and remove the trap completely. Save it. You will re-use it.

Let us know how you did...

OK. Got the nut off. Had to open up the ceiling a little more and work at it a bit, but it came loose. I could only the get the lip up a fraction of an inch, but I made a rope of plumbers putty and ran it around the bottom of the lip where it meets the shower floor.

I did not see any rubber gasket under the lip. However, on the under-side of the drain, I did see the fiber gasket that was supposed to be there. I don't have any cement right now, so I plan to let the putty dry and I'll run the shower for a while to see if we get any water.

I will report back. Thanks!

That was fast. I ran the shower and there is still leaking from the drain. It appears to be dripping on only one side and the source is above the locking nut/fiber gasket, like where the floor and drain meet.

Should I try running a bead of silicone under the lip now? Do I need the remove the plumber's putty first?

You should put Plumber's Putty on top, where flange sits inside the floor opening. You should install that rubber gasket from the bottom, between the bottom of the pan and nut. That's the actual seal. It is important that that gasket is in.

I would not recommend using caulk on brand new installation. If you install it the way described above, there is no need for caulk. Moreover, any presence of water will now repel silicone.

Try again and let us know how you did...

How can I get a rubber gasket on there? The drain is glued in the pipe & trap. The anti-friction gasket isn't even in decent shape.

Would you recommend replacing the drain altogether?

If so, I guess I have to cut the old one out? Is that a difficult job?

The rubber gasket has to be installed. I goes in like this. Drain lip and sealant on top. Rubber gasket next t the base then fiber anti-friction washer and nut. Sorry, but you'll have to redo the drain. At the same time you pick up a rubber gasket pick up a fiber washer also. Good luck, Tom

Tom is right on. That gasket has to be installed or leak will continue.

Bought one of these oatey "no calk" shower drains at lowe's tonight. Brass Drains for Preformed Shower Bases :: Oatey.com (http://www.oatey.com/Plumber/Shared/ProductGroupDetail/114/Brass+Drains+for+Preformed+Shower+Bases.html)

It comes with both a rubber and anti-friction gasket. I couldn't find them sold separately. I'll let you know how the new drain install goes tomorrow.

Hey guys, I need to clarify something before I put the new drain on... the rubber gasket goes above the shower floor (under the drain lip) or under the shower floor above the anti-friction gasket and locknut?

Rubber gasket goes under the pan, directly against it, followed by AF ring and locknut. It absolutely has to be installed.

I got it in and everything is working. Thanks for all your help!

i got it in and everything is working. thanks for all your help!

Glad you're all fixes up. If you ever need us again we're as close as a click. Tom