1993 honda accord ex died last week while driving. Towed it home. Later that evening it started fine. Went out the next morning and started it, it ran for a few minutes then died again. Hasn't started since. I noticed oil in the spark plug recesses and my wires were bad. I replaced the valve cover gasket, wires, plugs and a new ignition coil. It turns over but still won't start. I am not getting any spark to the wires. Any ideas? I do I test to see if it the ignitor?

Replace the ignitor--don't rely on bench tests (not reliable). Afterwards, I bet the engine starts great. This link should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-4.html#post265896

This is also a good time to replace the rotor and distributor cap. Use dielectric grease on the ends of the spark plug wires. Ensure wires are fully seated in the cap.

Does the Check Engine Light come on and go off normally, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?

I put new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil. Still won't start. I did not replace the ignitor yet--since it is the most expensive part. I guess I have no choice. The check engine light comes on and goes off as it should. I am still not getting spark at my plug wires.

I believe victory is very close. Replacing the ignitor should do the trick. Basically, ignitors are electronic points (switches), which open and close the primary circuit in the coil. When it does this, under direction of the ECM, the coil steps up the 12 volts from the battery to 25,000 to 40,000 volts in the secondary circuit to fire the spark plugs. Ignitors have microchips inside that get damaged by the intense heat under the hood. This heat is particularly intense for your ignitor, since it is located inside the distributor. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the new ignitor.

Ignitors are the most problematic component on Hondas. That's why I recommend proactively changing them every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

When you replaced the valve cover gasket, did you replace the four spark plug tube gaskets? These are what prevent oil from getting into the spark plug tubes.

Yes I replaced the spark plug tube gaskets. I had the valve cover gasket replaced (supposedly) less than a year ago. I am inclined to believe that the mechanic did not replace it--at least not the spark plug tube gaskets. I am not much of a mechanic but I believe if I get this problem corrected this might be the confidence booster I need to become more of a do-it-yourselfer. Thanks for the input txgreasemonkey.

I am going to replace the ignitor tomorrow if they have it in stock at the parts store. I have seen it called an ignition module on some sites.

Yes, it's called an Ignition Control Module (ICM) or an ignitor. Trust me, your Civic will run again soon. Here's what it looks like:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BAR&MfrPartNumber=1800218&PartType=194&PTSet=A

Check RockAuto.com. They offer an ignitor made by NEC for $70.79.

Replaced the ignitor on the 1993 honda accord ex. It acts like it wants to start but not catching up. Sort of like it is flooded. Caught a couple of times but cut right back off. Any suggestions?

Do you now have spark?

Yes, I now have a spark.

. Have you checked for any codes being thrown? On your Civic, the CEL will stay on if there's a code stored in the ECM.

. Have you tested all underhood and underdash fuses with your multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-3.html#post252145

. Clean the main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. It normally has 3 wires going to a brass connector and is attached to the thermostat housing with a 10 mm bolt.

. If the car seems flooded, the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor may be responsible. It controls injector pulse width and may be delivering too much fuel.

If the car still doesn't start, I'm inclined to suspect that an internal distributor sensor (i.e. Crankshaft Position Sensor, Top Dead Center Sensor, or Cylinder Sensor) is damaged. This is common on this generation of Honda. Since the sensors are not repairable, the distributor housing would need to be replaced. Only buy a genuine Honda distributor housing, since we have had many problems with aftermarket distributors for Hondas. Of course, you can use your new coil and ignitor in the new distributor housing.

No I haven't checked for any codes. I am an amateur. I don't have equipment to check codes.

Here's how you check for codes on your Civic:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-6.html#post832012

No special tools required.

Consider yourself lucky if you get 90,000 miles from a Honda distributor housing. It's common for the bearing and sensors to fail. There's no splash lubrication--only a sealed bearing. This makes Honda distributors a worse design than most. When oil in the grease wears out, it fails. Fortunately, new Hondas (like virtually every new car) are distributorless. Saturn SL1s, by the way, had distributorless ignitions even in 1992. These are comparably priced cars and, in my opinion, Saturns are more reliable. I've owned both and like them both--I've never owned a car, however, that I didn't like. They all have their strengths and weaknesses.

My check engine light does not flash. It comes on for a couple of seconds when the switch is turned on but goes off like it should. Does this mean that no codes are thrown? Could my timing just be off? I don't think I crossed any wires. I was very particular about putting them back one at a time.

I am at a loss on my 1993 accord. I have about killed the battery trying to start it. I still have to do the test on the service connector. However, my CEL seems to be normal and I can hear the click (I assume means the main relay is working) as soon as the check engine light goes off. The Service Connector is on the passenger side by the right kick panel--is this correct?

If they CEL comes on and goes off normally and you can hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, then everything should be okay and no codes were thrown.

At this point, my experience has been that the problem normally resides with the distributor housing. I really thought replacing the ignitor would solve your problem. Sorry I can't definitively pinpoint the problem for sure, since I don't want to waste your money.

Yes, the Service Check Connector should be found just under the dash, along the right kick panel. Again, you should know how to do this but if the CEL is not staying on, I don't think it will shed light on your problem.

It's possible your timing could be off. Since it started several times since it died on the road, however, I doubt it. Are you sure the compression for each cylinder is good?

When I turn the switch on the CEL stays on for a couple of seconds and goes off. I hear the hum of what I presume is the fuel pump and a click from under the dash which I assume is the main relay. Is it possible to 'flood' a fuel injected vehicle? I am sure what a replaced so far was part of the problem--I wasn't getting a spark before but I am now. Also before it just turned over without any signs of catching. It does sound like it is catching now and it caught a few times but cut right back off. Fuel problelm?

If you think it's now a fuel-related problem, try changing the fuel filter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-2.html#post224689

I loosened the bolt at the fuel rail that comes from the fuel filter. There was fuel there but not a heavy flow. Should this fuel be under pressure and stream out? It was only a little dribble--I even took the nut off completely. The car did start again but cut right back off. Fuel pump hums when switch is turned on, then stops and I hear click from main relay. Do you think the problem is in the fuel filter?

THANKS TXGREASEMONKEY!! I got my 1993 honda accord running. I don't know if it was 'flooded' or the battery power was just not quite up to par. I took the nut off the fuel rail and made sure I was getting fuel. Put it back on an jump-boosted with my other vehicle. I knew the electrical stuff needed to be replaced because I wasn't getting a spark before I replaced those parts. I should have replaced the ignitor first, like you suggested. But the car was probably due for coil,distributor, rotor etc.

Good job! I'm really glad you solved the problem. Yes, I would definitely replace the fuel filter, since the pressure should be 40 to 47 psi. What your described was far below that.

P.S. Remove your battery and fully charge it. Jumping modern-day cars is playing with fire--it's too easy to damage the ECM, alternator, and other sensors. Clean battery terminals and cable connections.

You did not waste money replacing the components you did--now you should have restored "like new" reliability and performance.

Victory came and now you join the ranks of other do-it-yourselfers, saving yourself a bundle in the process. Now, you have the satisfaction of doing it yourself--there's a tangible before and after.

I know money is tight these days. Still, don't scrimp on lubricants--use the best (synthetics) in your engine and transmission. If you take care of the engine and transmission, everything else is relatively small and won't be a
Total disaster to your personal budget. Here are some tips to help you play "good defense" and protect your budget:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563.html#post219991

I replaced the iginitor, fuel pump, main relay assemble, new coil, still don't crank.

The same thing happened to mine and it was the alternator...

Marie, if it cranks but won't start, make sure the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II). If not, the ECM may have failed. If the CEL comes on and goes off normally, and the starter motor cranks but the engine does not start, focus on the distributor. If you installed the new igniter and coil in an aftermarket distributor housing (i.e. not a genuine Honda distributor housing), that may be the problem. Most aftermarket distributors for Hondas have not worked at AMHD. Install your igniter and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing and your car should start.

I replaced igniter, and just got my honda back he said the fuel silter has never been changed now it stillk won't start has a new disteributer cap also don't no why it keeps dying? It starts but dies?

I meen fuel filter sorry I'm 22 year old girl and don't no much about cars but I no I exsasted a lot of money and time and don't no what to do now

freddyndiego, if the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. Since you have already replaced the igniter inside the distributor, I would replace the coil. If the problem still persists, I would install your new igniter in a genuine Honda distributor housing. It may be that one of the internal distributors is failing, such as the Crankshaft Position Sensor. This is fairly common. Honda distributors tend to only last 50,000 to 100,000 miles. Don't buy an aftermarket distributor, because most of them have not worked at AMHD.