I'm rebuilding the engine on my murray, it's a 12.5 horsepower power built. I have a brand new starter and the solonoid was replaced about a year ago, but it just clicks when I turn the key, if I hook up the starter and try and turn it over the solonoid clicks multiple times rapidly then won't click at all for about 5 minutes or so, then will just click again when I turn the key, any ideas??

You have it wired backwards or something like that. Does the solenoid get hot when this happens

You have it wired backwards or something like that. Does the solenoid get hot when this happens

The solonoid was replaced by my father about a year before the engine died, and the moter still turned over and ran fine, the solonoid doesn't get hot when it clicks (that I've noticed) and when holding the starter wire or having my hand on the solonoid I can feel a surge, whether the surge is power going through the wire, or the solonoid activating I'm not sure.

Are you sure it is ground properly

Is your battery in good shape; i.e. fully charged and terminals clean?

Make sure the battery is charged, and like above, the connections are clean... (corroded connections WILL cause problems) now the battery is how old exactly? About 2 years is the lifetime for them.

Make sure the battery is charged, and like above, the connections are clean..... (corroded connections WILL cause problems) now the battery is how old exactly? About 2 years is the lifetime for them.
The battery is about a year old but it sat for most of that year without the lawnmower running, in the weather. It seems to have a full charge, but I myself think it's the battery as well, aside from the starting problems upon reassembly I'm running into other problems, this is my first rebuild and when reattached the crankshaft to the flywheel, I pushed them together and tapped the key back into place, then tightened down the bolt, the connecting rod seemed to place fine on the crankshaft lobe, and everything spins just as it should, but when I bolt on the base of the motor with the bolts finger tight the crank won't spin no matter how much force I apply, its obviously some sort of clearance problem, but I'm not sure what, maybe the crank and flywheel wasn't put back together properly, if anyone has ever had a problem like this and can maybe help me out any info would be great. The engine is a 12.5 powerbuilt from a murry lawnmower, engine code 28V707.

Was the same thickness gasket installed?

I have the same motor on my Murray. Mine does that too. The battery is dead, so I jump it from another source & when I jump it, the starter clicks like that sometimes. I usually adjust the jumper cables & that does the trick. Make sure the wing-nuts that connect the battery cables to the battery are good & tight. I'd make sure to check all the other connections. That seems to be all it takes, just a bad connection sometimes. Hopefully that's all it is for you.

BTW, I'm in the middle of repairs on my 12.5 B&S too. I just got done changing a broken connecting rod. It started right away after re-assembly & I let it run for about 45 sec. before shutting it down. Then I tried to start it again, now it won't start. I think I may have dislogged some junk in the carb when I had the motor apart & am going to take the carb apart tonight & see if that helps. I know I'm getting tired of tinkering on this thing! I feel your pain! LOL Good Luck!
Rob

Sorry to post again so soon, I just got thinking...
When I put the new connecting rod in my motor (the same as yours) I had to turn the whole connecting rod 180 degrees after my first try. The way I had the rod mounted to the crank the fist time, the back end of the rod would hit the inside of the crank case. So, like I said, I spun it 180 degress, & it re-attached it to the crank & then it cleared. Luckily, I spun the crank by hand before I put it all together so, I could see exactly what I had done. This could be a possibility for you. Hope this helps & again good luck.

Rob

Sorry to post again so soon, I just got thinking....
When I put the new connecting rod in my motor (the same as yours) I had to turn the whole connecting rod 180 degrees after my first try. The way I had the rod mounted to the crank the fist time, the back end of the rod would hit the inside of the crank case. So, like I said, I spun it 180 degress, & it re-attached it to the crank & then it cleared. Luckily, I spun the crank by hand before I put it all together so, I could see exactly what I had done. This could be a possibility for you. Hope this helps & again good luck.

Rob

I have a B & S 28V707 that had a connecting rod failure under warranty and was professionally repaired. My neighbors lawn tractor has the same engine and it seems that the conn rod failed in it too- but it's out of warranty. You just reported that you re-built yours - my question is did you have a repair manual to use or was it seat-of the-pants get into it approach. I'd like to tear into the neighbors motor but I am doing a little research first.

I just bought off Ebay a Murray select 30" rider that looks to be in great shape physically, but seems the connecting rod broke in it also. I'd be interested in any information on taking it apart and repairing it also. I've done a lot of simple carb works minor repairs, but never tried to take one completely apart before.

Get a repair manual for that exact engine... It will tell you everything you need to know and more...

BUT before you do that, just simple take the engine out, pulley off, and unbolt the sump... take the sump out and if its JUST the conrod... and it didn't hit anything, then proceed.

Actually seemed to get lucky. When the rod fragmented, and I mean it completely ripped apart. It apparently shut the engine down, and I can't find anything else, scored, or broken. I really only need to know the alignment of the parts after I replace the rod, so I can get the timeing right. I've alreadly dis-assembled the motor and putting it back together will just be a reversal process after I find out how to get the timing right...

Actually seemed to get lucky. When the rod fragmented, and I mean it completely ripped apart. It apparently shut the engine down, and I can't find anything else, scored, or broken. I really only need to know the alignment of the parts after I replace the rod, so I can get the timeing right. I've alreadly dis-assembled the motor and putting it back together will just be a reversal process after I find out how to get the timing right...

Hi Make Sure Your Battery Has 12.30 Volts In It Batterys Will Discharge
If Not In Use For One To Two Months Depends On Temp If Battery Is Fully Charged Brushs Or Arm Ature Is Bad.

the battery is about a year old but it sat for most of that year without the lawnmower running, in the weather. It seems to have a full charge, but i myself think its the battery as well, aside from the starting problems upon reassembly im running into other problems, this is my first rebuild and when reattached the crankshaft to the flywheel, i pushed them together and tapped the key back into place, then tightened down the bolt, the connecting rod seemed to place fine on the crankshaft lobe, and everything spins just as it should, but when i bolt on the base of the motor with the bolts finger tight the crank wont spin no matter how much force i apply, its obviously some sort of clearance problem, but im not sure what, maybe the crank and flywheel wasnt put back together properly, if anyone has ever had a problem like this and can maybe help me out any info would be great. the engine is a 12.5 powerbuilt from a murry lawnmower, engine code 28V707.

Perhaps you forgot the slave washer? It is a clearance problem. Gravity is forcing the crank to bottom out.

im rebuilding the engine on my murray, its a 12.5 horsepower power built. i have a brand new starter and the solonoid was replaced about a year ago, but it just clicks when i turn the key, if i hook up the starter and try and turn it over the solonoid clicks multiple times rapidly then wont click at all for about 5 mins or so, then will just click again when i turn the key, any ideas???

Sounds like your battery doesn't have the amps to turn over the starter, which is why all you hear is clicking. Same as with a dead car battery.

Throw your solenoid away and buy a new one... if... You have cleaned your cables and made sure that you have a good ground between the battery and the engine block.
Macsred