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View Full Version : White rodgers 50a50-241 7 flash error code>>>


cbecker111
Nov 30, 2008, 06:10 PM
I have a York Furnace natural gas with a white rodgers 50a50-241 board,
After no heat just blowing cold air I shut off the system let it sit for about 5 minutes and turned back on... worked fine for 3 days. Now it give me 7 flashes from the board after 3 tries at lighting on its own. Ignitor burns hot gas supply seems to click and go on but about 5-8 seconds after gas goes on ignitor turns off. The seven flashes mean lockout due to no ignition... what is the fix??
Thanks for your time

hvac1000
Nov 30, 2008, 06:17 PM
I have a York Furnace natural gas with a white rodgers 50a50-241 board,
After no heat just blowing cold air I shut off the system let it sit for about 5 minutes and turned back on...worked fine for 3 days. Now it give me 7 flashes from the board after 3 trys at lighting on its own. ignitor burns hot gas supply seems to click and go on but about 5-8 seconds after gas goes on ignitor turns off. The seven flashes mean lockout due to no ignition...what is the fix???
Thanks for your time

Manual

http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/06_Cat_pages/Cat_06_pg0259_264.pdf

If you have a flame sensor on that unit clean it.

cbecker111
Nov 30, 2008, 06:23 PM
Thanks, I will try that but I seem to remember that I replaced it about 3 years ago and it still looks fine.
Thanks god for fireplaces and space heaters.
Thanks for any other answers about a solid parts fix if it needs it.

hvac1000
Nov 30, 2008, 06:26 PM
I replaced it about 3 years ago and it still looks fine


Looks are deceiving.

cbecker111
Nov 30, 2008, 06:27 PM
I will go back home and take it out!

Thanks

hvac1000
Nov 30, 2008, 06:50 PM
Sand paper works well. Do not touch the ignitor they are sensitive in nature.

cbecker111
Nov 30, 2008, 07:48 PM
It has been about an hour and it seems to have worked.
The sensor didn't seem to be that covered in anything... not saying it didn't work but it says on one of the lad flash error decals that the lockout will end after an hour>>> might that be why it worked and if so could I still have a problem later?
Not questioning your ability... just wanting to cover all bases and make it right before we leave for 5 days from the frozen midwest and don't need to come back to a set of frozen dogs and house.
Thanks

cbecker111
Nov 30, 2008, 10:08 PM
So it didn't work.
After it hit the set temp on the thermostat it did the same thing again... 7 flashes and the fan blowing cold air!
Got any ideas anyone?

hvac1000
Nov 30, 2008, 11:03 PM
7 FLASH:This fault code indicates that flame could not be
established. This no-light condition occurred 3 times during
the call for heat before locking out. This may be caused by
low gas pressure, faulty gas valve, faulty hot surface igniter
or burner problem.
This is from a York service manual. You did not supply the exact model number of your unit just the circuit board number but all units with this board will be the same.

Her is the manual

http://johnsonsupply.com/york2001/PUB/N4u.pdf

Service people usually have meters to use to test the parts of the ignition control system. Without a meter it is a parts replacing game since more than one part can be the problem. I told you to clean the sensor since that was the cheapest way to go first.
The directions for testing are in the above manual for a unit that uses the control board you have. If you have the means to test by all means do if not you will be replacing partys and hope for the best.
BTW other than this happening have you performed any service work on the furnace lately. The reason for the question is this circuit board is sensitive to reversed polarity and you will see a message in the manual also. It is a good manual with all the specs for testing included. If you have a meter and know how to use it then you should be able to find exactly what part is at fault. Since I am not there I can not do this testing for you.

cbecker111
Dec 1, 2008, 11:31 AM
Wow Thanks for the PDF!
That is my furnace.
I got up at 2 am to start er up and got the house warm.
I called a service guy that had taken care of my shop stuff. He came out and checked the water drain from the combustion air fan... had a lot in the hose. He thought too much water would have caused the fan to overheat and slow not letting the pressure switch to work. He restarted the system, which has been working all morning... and after putting the drain hose back in he touched the small combustion air motor and was very hot, I also touched it. He turned off the main switch and turned it back on about 3 times in a couple minutes the system lite each time but the combustion motor was hot and got a little cooler but then got hot again while running and he thinks it overheated for a split second and when it did shut the system off.
I did see the system shut down just before he left and it seem to click like the combution fan turned off for a second but turned right back on. I am betting it should not even be warm?? So I think that is the issue.
I have NOT done any service that woulkd have disconected any power or wires.

hvac1000
Dec 1, 2008, 11:39 AM
Lucky guess on the manual. LOL. When you post it is always good to give as many brands and model numbers as possible since we can then look up items of interest that might be causing the problem.

Water retention in the hose can cause problems and if the motor ran long enough it could have damaged it. The combustion fan should not be running unless the thermostat is calling for heat and the furnace is in operation. Sounds like you have a handle on the situation.

Glad you have it running since winter is here. If the service person recommends the motor/combustion blower needs to be replaced I would do that and make sure the reason is found for the water accumulation. Things do plug up now and then.

cbecker111
Dec 1, 2008, 12:22 PM
Thanks for your help!
Do you have a paypal account?

hvac1000
Dec 1, 2008, 12:44 PM
I do have a Pay Pal account BUT I accept NO money for my services. Here is what you can do for both of us if you like. During the Holiday season there are many food pantrys and things of that nature that accept donations so a donation to one of your choice would work well. Lets face it both you and I are doing OK but there are many others especially now that are not. Your donation no matter what size will help someone help themselves.

Glad you got it fixed and may the Holiday spirit burn brite for you every year.

cbecker111
Dec 1, 2008, 01:30 PM
I think the combustion fan has been replaced once already...
Got a parts list for a york P2LND12N07501A?
The fan is a Fasco Ind 22H59254
Can't find it...
We do have a local food bank and I will make a donation. We generally support one statewide charity but have no problem donating were you want.
Thanks
Chris

hvac1000
Dec 1, 2008, 02:11 PM
If that is a fasco number it is a private list number for york and all the Johnson control furnaces manufactured under many different names. Luxair,Coleman etc.

I am seeing this number. It is aYork part number BUT I would not trust it

373-20717-001 complete venter.

Can you get the Exact model number off your unit?

If so I can try to get a Exact part number for you I believe since I have a electronic parts catalogue for those companys but it has to have a Exact furnace model to work.

Or sometimes you can get a good deal on Ebay but the numbers have to match see example.

FASCO COLEMAN GAS FURNACE DRAFT INDUCER ELECTRIC MOTOR - eBay (item 330289436796 end time Dec-01-08 19:13:13 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com/FASCO-COLEMAN-GAS-FURNACE-DRAFT-INDUCER-ELECTRIC-MOTOR_W0QQitemZ330289436796QQihZ014QQcategoryZ4198 7QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

This one is marked for a Coleman but that is one of the companys that also is unser York or Unitary Products group UPG for short. This is just a example

cbecker111
Dec 1, 2008, 03:55 PM
The York ttmodel I gave is correct...
The fasco model is 70624435 I missed it the first time...
Got a good place to buy them...

hvac1000
Dec 2, 2008, 02:44 AM
According to the Fasco number you supplied this is the only link showing that part Number.

115 Volt Furnace Inducer Blower Motor (Coleman, York, Moncrief ): American HVAC Parts (http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MOT3242507&Category_Code=m-york)


These part numbers from the electronic Cat.
York old part number

373-14249-001

York new part number

324-25960-000

Patriot Supply - 324-25960-000 (http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/showitem.cfm/25951)


York Inducer Motor Part #S1-324-25960-000 (http://www.furnacepartsource.com/dls652.html)


324-25960-000 York Draft Inducer Assembly. [324-25960-000] - $210.00 : K & L Supply, Inc. (219) 874-6560, Where one call (or click) does it all!!! (http://www.klsupplyinc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=703)






UTL Ebay.

Ize
Jan 4, 2010, 06:15 PM
hvac1000,

Just wanted to thank you for your post on this. I've had the same unit serviced for the same problem the last 3 years. 1st year my fault, second, not quite sure, and then last January again. They replaced the limit switch with a higher temp unit, and it ran fine the rest of the winter and into this fall.

Until a month ago of course. Same problem. So I really started researching it and it had settled down until the last day or so. I cleaned the sensor like you suggested, now I'm keeping an eye on it.

Just wanted to say thanks! Hope the Holidays were good, and the New Year is great for you.

hvac1000
Jan 4, 2010, 06:43 PM
Thank you for the kind words and I hope you have the same.

Mike242424
Oct 13, 2012, 12:16 PM
My gas would turn on for four seconds then off then on again for four for seconds then stay off for two minutes and then the same thing I cleaned the flame sensor on the unit with sand paper as suggested above and it worked! Thanks very much!

hvac1000
Oct 13, 2012, 03:43 PM
My gas would turn on for four seconds then off then on again for four for seconds then stay off for two minutes and then the same thing I cleaned the flame sensor on the unit with sand paper as suggested above and it worked!! Thanks very much!!

Your welcome

edware
Jun 27, 2016, 08:10 PM
Check the flame sense probe insulation. It is a cloth insulation and if it gets wet, will conduct enough to attenuate the flame sense signal.
A good idea is to insulate the flame sense lead with heatshrink tubing to prevent moisture from affecting it.
In many cases removing the sensor and replacing it again is enough to allow some of the moisture to dry out and make the sensor work again.
Cleaning the sensor with emery paper is likely to have a negligible effect.