I was wondering if someone could give me a general idea of what I would need to replace on my brakes. I drive a '93 Ford Explorer and yesterday while driving I pressed my brakes and the pedal went to the floor and I didn't stop. When I got to where I was going right up the road I had someone press the pedal and brake fluid gushed out. I took the tire off and checked the bleeder valve but it was dry. Then I had the pedal pressed again and it gushed out around the piston. So, I was wondering if it was the whole brake caliper that I needed to replace or exactly what I need to replace? I was going to call around and price it but I wanted another opinion before I replaced the whole caliper.

Thanks!

I was also wondering concerning my other question, how to bleed brakes? It's been a long time since I have done it and I can't remember how to do it. I know you start the farthest away from the master cylinder, but I don't remember what exactly you are supposed to do, or how you do it.

Thanks!

Can someone please help me?

Sounds like the caliper's seal failed, likely due to the brake fluid not being changed every two years. Crud builds up inside and abrates the seal. Best course of action is to install a rebuilt or new caliper. You are lucky a serious accident was avoided.

Bleed the brakes in this order: RR, LF, LR, and RF. Use Valvoline Brake Fluid, which is HBH rated (heavy duty) and approved for use in all Ford vehicles. This link should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-46563-5.html#post619000

Be sure to have the other calipers/wheel cylinders inspected for leaks. This would be a good time to replace pads/shoes (go with Motorcraft), have emergency brake adjusted, and lubricate caliper pins with silicone grease.

Thanks a lot. I didn't even know that you had to change brake fluid that often. That's good to know though. I already bought a new caliper and brake pads this morning. Now, I just need to replace it. I thought it was the farthest from the master, then the second farthest then so on. Like in this case. RR, LR, RF, LF. I am probably mistaken. How is it that you bleed them though, I know you have the valve, but I don't remember how you press the pedal, and the correct process. Do you follow what I mean? Thanks Again!

Split braking system (for safety):

. RR and LF are on one circuit.

. LR and RF are on the other circuit.

You should completely bleed one circuit at a time. Buy the CalVan One-Man Bleeder I reference in the link--you'll be glad you did. If you can't find one, buy one of the other one-man products on the market from your local auto parts store or Sears (Lisle).

The CalVan one-man bleeder is in the link you gave me a minute ago? Does that mean, one man can do it by himself? Sorry for the dumb question. My dad has been a mechanic for about 38 years, and I haven't seem to pick up much from him, but I wish I would have. I appreciate your help. I might still need help though!

One person can bleed the complete brake system in 45 minutes, first time around, with the CalVan One-Man Bleeder.

Also, can I bleed the brakes by myself? You don't need 2 people? One at the brake pedal and one at the valve?

No, one person can do everything. The CalVan product has a one-way check valve that prevents air from being sucked into the system, when the brake pedal is depressed (by hand) 14 times. Buy a quart of brake fluid.

It's best to use flare-nut wrenches to separate brake lines nuts, in order not to distort them as they are being removed.

Also, buy a battery squeeze bulb ($3.00) to suck the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir (to a safe level), then refill with fresh fluid and cap it off.

It's very important to clean and grease the caliper pins with silicone grease. The calipers can lock up, otherwise.

OK, thanks a lot. I will do that. I will get some grease off my dad. Hopefully all goes well!

Okay.

. Tighten front caliper bolts 23 to 28 lb-ft.

. Tighten brake hose-to-caliper bolt 31 to 39 lb-ft.

Apply anti-squeal compound to brake pad shims. Attention to detail makes a big difference on brake jobs.

I would recommend you bringing them to my garage and us looking at them...

All right, thanks a lot

Where is your car now?

From a safety standpoint, you need to replace the pads on both front calipers.

where is your car now?

My car is at my sister house. I'm going to work on it tonight! Do you want to come help me Mr. Reed? I could use the help if you want to.

From a safety standpoint, you need to replace the pads on both front calipers.

Yes! Thank you! I have already bought the pads for the right and the left.

Hey! I am having one problem with it now. I put the new caliper on the left side last night and put new brake pads on it. Then I got to the right side and I put new brake pads on and I was going to bleed that side but the bleeder valve was stripped. Also whoever put that together last time, had the caliper wedged in there and only had one pin. I don't know how it has lasted me as long as it has. But, anyway I was wondering what I should do since the bleeder valve is stripped? It drives OK, but I can tell there is still some air in the lines. Should I just replace the other caliper since its only 22 dollars?

Definitely replace the right caliper, grease the caliper pins, and bleed the complete brake system.

All right. Thanks! My dad is switching out the bleeder valves today. He thinks he can get it out of the one on the car. I guess we will see.