I have a 2001 Honda Civic, with approx. 77k miles, that recently has started idling very low. It doesn't happen all of the time, but often, when I'm coming to a stop, the car shakes violently and I can see that the idle is very low. This has been occurring for the past 2 months. When it first started I took it to a mechanic to have a tune up, transmission fluid & oil change... he also replaced all of the spark plugs. He told me that there were no trouble codes coming from the car and that it wasn't a serious problem. He gave me a fuel additive to add to my gas to see if it would help with the shaking. It seemed to help for a week or two, but then the shaking started up again. Last Friday, and again this past Monday, the car has idled so low that it has caused it to stall. The first time I was going up a hill and as I started to release the break and press the gas, it just stopped and all of the lights on the dash came on. I put the car in park and tried starting it back up... it started without any hesitation and no lights were on. The second time it stalled, I was coming to a stop and the idle just went down to 0 and the car stalled... again all of the lights came on and when I restarted it, there was no problem. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this problem might be? I haven't taken it to Honda yet because I don't want to pay and arm & a leg just for them to tell me that it's not a serious problem, or that they don't know what is causing it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.

It doesn't sound serious- but it is something you want to get fixed. Could be a setting or a vacuum hose lose. Suggest you don't go to Honda but instead go to Kwik Kar or another place that does oil changes, state inspections etc. My guess is they can diagnose/fix quickly and cheaper than honda

1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Connect a tachometer, normally to the BLU wire coming from the distributor. It is often buried in the cluster of wires near the master cylinder reservoir. Can be difficult to single out, because Honda does a great job of hiding it. I eventually found mine.
3. Disconnect the 2P connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.
4. Start the engine with the accelerator pedal slightly depressed. Stabilize the rpm at 1000, then slowly release the pedal until the engine idles.
5. Check idling in no-load conditions: headlights, air conditioning, etc. not operating.
6. Adjust idle speed to spec. (normally 450 rpm). The idle adjustment screw is "leaded in," to prevent owners from adjusting them. You will find it on the top end of the throttle body. Take a small screwdriver and remove the lead seal and make your adjustment.
7. Reattach the 2P connector to the IAC valve and everything should be fine.
8. Disconnect negative battery terminal or pull fuse to reset ECM.

Hey I just wanted to ask you if you figured out the problem to your car. My 2002 Honda civic LX pretty much does the same thing. It has not yet stalled on me, but it does shake on idle or when starting the engine. Please let me know.

2002HondaCivic, here's what I would first do:

. Check for any codes.
. Ensure correct spark plugs (NGK only) are installed and that they are in good shape. I change platinum plugs every 50,000 miles.
. Change fuel filter, if it hasn't been changed in 60,000 miles.
. Check throttle cable--ensure it hasn't come loose from any brackets and is properly adjusted.
. Warm up engine and check idle rpm.
. Check EGR Valve.

I have a 2001 Honda Civic, with approx. 77k miles, that recently has started idling very low. It doesn't happen all of the time, but often, when I'm coming to a stop, the car shakes violently and I can see that the idle is very low. This has been occuring for the past 2 months. When it first started I took it to a mechanic to have a tune up, transmission fluid & oil change...he also replaced all of the spark plugs. He told me that there were no trouble codes coming from the car and that it wasn't a serious problem. He gave me a fuel additive to add to my gas to see if it would help with the shaking. It seemed to help for a week or two, but then the shaking started up again. Last Friday, and again this past Monday, the car has idled so low that it has caused it to stall. The first time I was going up a hill and as I started to release the break and press the gas, it just stopped and all of the lights on the dash came on. I put the car in park and tried starting it back up...it started without any hesitation and no lights were on. The second time it stalled, I was coming to a stop and the idle just went down to 0 and the car stalled...again all of the lights came on and when I restarted it, there was no problem. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this problem might be? I haven't taken it to Honda yet because I don't want to pay and arm & a leg just for them to tell me that it's not a serious problem, or that they don't know what is causing it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
Your problem could be a number of things. Most likely, your RACV (rotary air control valve) is sticking. A quick way to check it is when the idle is abnormally low, you can take a long screwdriver pressed up against it and tap it lightly with a hammer. This will allow the valve to open and allow the idle to return to normal. The RACV is located on th throttle body. It has two coolant hoses that run to it.

Does the problem occur only when the A/C has been on?
What services were performed at the "tune up".
What parts were replaced and what brand was used?

Actually, I haven't got it tuned up yet. It doesn't just happen only when the A/C is on. Unfortunately, I am not too good with engines and car parts so I don't think I'll be able to do exactly what you tell me. The car has apprx. 47,000 miles on it. The car sometimes shakes and sometimes doesn't when at a stop light for example. Most of the times, if I floor it the whole first gear and stop slowly at a light, for example, it won't shake. It's pretty weird.

The RACV is notorious for carbon buildup causing it to stick. It is just a valve that rotates to allow air into the intake manifold to control idle speed. It will tend to stick more when the ECU gives it small adjustment commands (regular driving). When adjustment commands are larger the RACV moves with enough force to free its valve (Wide open throttle driving). This is still the first place I would look for diagnosis.

Thanks for that! I will let the mechanic know to check that. The problem occurred mainly after my sister drove the car. One day she was driving while it was raining and turned pretty quick. Next thing, car went out of control and went into the curb. No body damage was done. The left and right arms had to be changed though along with the tire and rim. I was thinking maybe the transmission mounts or engine mounts ? Maybe that is why it is shaking? Just taking a guess. Please let me know! Thanks

2002HondaCivic- The RACV information was intended for Jenni536. (I didn't realize this was a multi member thread)

You could have damaged mounts from the impact, which would cause engine vibration to transfer to the body. I have also seen cracked transmission cases from harsh impacts.

In the case of a cracked tranny, would I have to replace it?

If your transmission case was cracked, in most cases you could replace just the case. It may be just as expensive to install a junkyard transmission, but who knows what you would end up with.

Your problem could be a number of things. Most likely, your RACV (rotary air control valve) is sticking. A quick way to check it is when the idle is abnormally low, you can take a long screwdriver pressed up against it and tap it lightly with a hammer. This will allow the valve to open and allow the idle to return to normal. The RACV is located on th throttle body. It has two coolant hoses that run to it.

Does the problem occur only when the A/C has been on?
What services were performed at the "tune up".
What parts were replaced and what brand was used?

I have the same problem but only occurs when the A/C is on so I can't use the a/c
Please help I'm in miami and is veryyy hot

Your problem could be a number of things. Most likely, your RACV (rotary air control valve) is sticking. A quick way to check it is when the idle is abnormally low, you can take a long screwdriver pressed up against it and tap it lightly with a hammer. This will allow the valve to open and allow the idle to return to normal. The RACV is located on th throttle body. It has two coolant hoses that run to it.

Does the problem occur only when the A/C has been on?
What services were performed at the "tune up".
What parts were replaced and what brand was used?


I've also noticed this same issue with my '01 Civic but in addition to that, I've noticed twice now that the car will stay revved when up-shifting, when accelerating. For instance, going to work this morning, shifting from 2nd to 3rd, when I depress the clutch the car stays revved at 3000 RPMs. I goes back down if a tap the gas pedal and eventually stops after the car has been running for a while. Could all this be attributed to the RACV as well?

I have a 2001 Honda Civic ex, with approx. 50k miles, that recently has started idling very low. It doesn't happen all of the time, but often, when I'm coming to a stop, the car shakes violently and I can see that the idle is very low. This has been occurring for the past 2 months. When it first started I took it to a mechanic to have a tune up, transmission fluid & oil change/fuel injection cleaning... he also replaced all of the spark plugs and air filter. He told me that there were no trouble codes coming from the car and that it wasn't a serious problem. He gave me a fuel additive to add to my gas to see if it would help with the shaking. It seemed to help for a week or two, but then the shaking started up again. Last Friday, and again this past Monday, the car has idled so low that it has caused it to stall. The first time I was going up a hill and as I started to release the break and press the gas, it just stopped and all of the lights on the dash came on. I put the car in park and tried starting it back up... it started without any hesitation and no lights were on. The second time it stalled, I was coming to a stop and the idle just went down to 0 and the car stalled... again all of the lights came on and when I restarted it, there was no problem. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this problem might be?Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.

Hi... I own a 2001 Honda Civic EX... Same Exact problem... rough ideling... coming to a stop... while slowing down, the car loses power... idles real low, the car starts to shake and it stalls "bogs out". I checked for vaccuum leaks, checked the egr valve, took it to Honda themselves twice and couldn't figure anything out. I just did a tune up myself, put platimum plugs in, and realized that one of the "COIL PACKS" attaching to the spark plug was burnt. I spent $100.00 for a new coil pack and it seems to be OK. Check your Coil packs. Hondas are different than American cars. Good luck

I have a 2001 Honda Civic, with approx. 77k miles, that recently has started idling very low. It doesn't happen all of the time, but often, when I'm coming to a stop, the car shakes violently and I can see that the idle is very low. This has been occuring for the past 2 months. When it first started I took it to a mechanic to have a tune up, transmission fluid & oil change...he also replaced all of the spark plugs. He told me that there were no trouble codes coming from the car and that it wasn't a serious problem. He gave me a fuel additive to add to my gas to see if it would help with the shaking. It seemed to help for a week or two, but then the shaking started up again. Last Friday, and again this past Monday, the car has idled so low that it has caused it to stall. The first time I was going up a hill and as I started to release the break and press the gas, it just stopped and all of the lights on the dash came on. I put the car in park and tried starting it back up...it started without any hesitation and no lights were on. The second time it stalled, I was coming to a stop and the idle just went down to 0 and the car stalled...again all of the lights came on and when I restarted it, there was no problem. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this problem might be? I haven't taken it to Honda yet because I don't want to pay and arm & a leg just for them to tell me that it's not a serious problem, or that they don't know what is causing it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
I'm having the same problem as gargi45... in fact, in the same city. It seems to rectify itself when I turn off the AC but living in Miami makes for a hot ride... and not in a good way. Help??

I'm having the same problem as gargi45...in fact, in the same city. It seems to rectify itself when I turn off the AC but living in Miami makes for a hot ride....and not in a good way. Help???


I, too, am having the same problem with my 2001 Honda civic. Unlike ravenhart and gargi45, I live up north in cold country. This issue only happens in the summertime... especially on a warm day that hits around the high 70's/80's. I do not use my a/c... and yet, I still have this idling/stalling problem. I am getting the same report from mechanics that say it is not a big problem. It is not a consistent problem... only on warm days... so it is hard to predict if the problem will show to the mechanic. I figured it was something to do with the heat (again, I don't use the a/c - doesn't work well anyway). Is there some temperature monitoring system that could be effecting this? I am not automobile savvy in anyway... so lay-man's terms are helpful!

I, too, am having the same problem with my 2001 Honda civic. Unlike ravenhart and gargi45, I live up north in cold country. This issue only happens in the summertime...especially on a warm day that hits around the high 70's/80's. I do not use my a/c...and yet, I still have this idling/stalling problem. I am getting the same report from mechanics that say it is not a big problem. It is not a consistent problem...only on warm days...so it is hard to predict if the problem will show to the mechanic. I figured it was something to do with the heat (again, I don't use the a/c - doesn't work well anyway). Is there some temperature monitoring system that could be effecting this? I am not automobile savvy in anyway...so lay-man's terms are helpful!

I own a 2002 Civic SiR and just started having the problem at 140,000 km's. I have one additional symptom... the engine light came on and has not gone off... and I stall at every stop... I have to keep the engine revving to avoid a stall... help!

Civic2002SiR, have you tried adjusting the throttle cable to increase the idle rpm? If you do this, the engine light won't come on, since the alternator will be generating enough electricity for system needs. Use two 12 mm open-end wrenches to loosen the inside nut on the cable and then take up on the outside nut.

When mine stalled the check engine light came on (finally!! ), I took it to honda and the code for excessive play in the cam shaft came up, and that requires engine work. I got an estimate and when I drove off, it was fine, but still idles rough. Got the sensors replaced, maybe faulty ones? but in any case still idles rough. I have an 01 as well, and it has been doing that since 03 I would say...

I'm desperate to find out if my 01 civic ex has a regulare fuel filter or if the hole pump assembly has to be changed out

ayspro, your Civic does not have a separate fuel filter. The fuel pump and strainer needs to be changed.

My 2003 honda civic idles rough when slowing down, giving it gas and when just idling. I changed the spark plugs (needed it) and now it idles worse. The body of 3 of my 4 ignition coils are brown/copper color while the fourth looks brand new. Any idea why?

Has the Check Engine Light come on recently? The discoloration could be evidence the coils have overheated and are breaking down. If you have 100,000 miles or more on the car, I would replace all of them. Only use the same NGK spark plugs that came in the car. Also, it's best to use dielectric grease, to prevent misfires.

No check engine light on. I have 200,000 miles on the car. I had split fire spark plugs put in at 100,000 and injust put in autolight plugs.
So I should replace all the coils?

I would. Before doing that, however, I would clean the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV), because of the mileage on the car:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-7.html#post1054149

Also, clean the throttle plate and throttle body.

Thanks for your help. How do I find the IACV?

It's on the back of the plenum.

I replaced three ignition coils and cleaned the IACV. Now my engine light is on and it is still idling rough.

Any other ideas?

What codes were thrown? This will be crucial information.

Did you clean the throttle plate and throttle body?

What is the idle rpm, when the car is at normal operating temperature?

Did you ever figure out what it was, my honda is doing the same thing, it's getting a new coil as we speak, I hope that fixes it!

It was what you originally suggested, the spark plugs were the problem. I replaced the newly installed Autolite plugs with the NGK and the check engine light went away and the car is running better. I think I need to install the 4th ignition coil to complete the repair. Thanks for your help.

mikech, that's good news.

This is the same problem I have been facing, I went over a speed breaker pretty hard and when it LANDED the bump was huge.. luckily no body damage or suspension damage occur, but seconds after that my
Car stalled. It started back up just fine, but after stopping at a red light it stalled again. This has been going on, I changed the spark plugs, cleaned the air filter, flushed, and got a battery checkup done(battery is fine) but it only reduced the vibration and rpm drop a bit. The engine is still stalling and vibrating at rpm below 3k but it goes away when rpm is at 3k and above.. the mechanic said the fuel pump is bad, but he's just dumb, becase I have gas too(cng) and it vibrates on that too, it does not require the fuel pump to work.

The fix to my problem is that it needed new spark plugs. Make sure you use NGK spark plugs. I used autolite spark plugs as the first replacement and it made the problem worst. I switched to NGK and it fixed the problem.

FixHondas, I have a similar issue with rough idle, but mainly when the A/C is on. Also, high temp when the car is running, but not moving, like at a red light. High temp resolved by turning heat on high, but that sucks in Miami. Thoughts? Thanks.

Here's a video about honda Idle problems.
I hope this helps!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblY

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Had, The Same issue it was a TDC (Top Dead Center) Sensor Took a few Hrs to replace but runs perfectly now have your codes read I bet you got a TDC Code but it cleared its self before you saw it

The cause would be the IAC or idle air control valve. You can locate the sensor and clean it to see if that helps or you just might have to buy a new one.

It may be the iacv or knock sensor, when my dad changed the knock sensor the stalling stop but know i still have two sensors on the baro so there's a minor shaking,the sensors i need to replace is throttle position sensor, and the iacv. So there is three sensors that may be causing ur problem

I have the same car 01 civic ex vtech

I had a similar problem with my 2001 civic LX sedan. The car had a rough idle for a while(no stalling), then one morning it didn't want to idle at all(it kept shutting off), so I inspected the air hoses,electrical connectors,etc.. Everything was OK,I was thinking the problem might be in the throttle body, so I discussed my issue with a friend who owns a shop and his suggestion was what I was thinking (the throttle body gets build up in it and should be cleaned once in a while),so I went to purchase a throttle body cleaner spray. I sprayed the throttle body a few times and revved the car to blow it out, sure enough that seem to be the issue, the car ran great and no further idling problems were noticed.