I am trying to replace a deadbolt lock and one of the screws will simply not come out! I am afraid that the screw is stripped. Any suggestions for its removal will be appreciated.
Thank you.:confused::p:o

Is it the head of the screw that is stripped (you can no longer use a screwdriver), or the threads?

If it is the head, you could possibly use a drill bit close to the size of the head to remove the head of the screw. Once this is done you can remove the plate that it is holding, and use vise grips to remove the shank.

Or you could use a screw extractor (just take one of the good screws to a hardware store, they will match it up for size). This will require you to drill through the center of the screw, turn or hammer in the extractor (there are different types), and turn it out.

If the threads are stripped, that is a bit trickier. My suggestion for that would be to drill out the screw, and when replacing the deadbolt use either a self-tapping screw of slightly larger size (for wood), or tap the hole to a slightly larger size (metal), and use a larger screw.

I am a 67 year old woman. Could you simplify this a little bit? I really don't know what you are talking about!

Which one of the screws is it that is stripped? Is it a screw that is screwed into the wood or is it a metal screw that holds the lock together.

Please answer and we will try to help.

I am a 67 year old woman. Could you simplify this a little bit? I really don't know what you are talking about!

I am sorry, I didn't realize!! But the question that "letmetellyou" asked will help us figure out what you should do a little better.

Hi, sacramento!

Just to add a little bit here to the helpful answers that you've already been given, and this depends on what the screw is made of and how tight it is screwed in, you might also like to try a strong magnet and turn the magnet counter-clockwise and see if that might help to extract it.

If it works, then this might help you to avoid having to damage anything in order to get the screw out.

Just a thought...

Thanks!

The screw is long and, I presume, brass. It holds the front of the lock to the back. It came out about 1/4 of an inch and stopped. The other screw came right out so no I am stuck with a partially removed screw! By the way, I am old but I am not stupid, just so you know!

How about trying a pair of pliers to remove the screw? I've done that many times...

I tried that! The lock is in the way and the pliers keep sliding off the screw!

If the screw is stripped in the hole, you might be able to use a flat head screwdriver to pry the screw out just a bit so that you can get a hold of the head with the pliers.

Just a thought...

Thanks!

OK, guys:

Cut the screw head off with a Fine tooth saw and/or Dremel tool if everything is going to be replaced.

Done.

Otherwise:

You can play with it. Options include: Cut a slot in the screw with a dremel tool so a flat head screwdriver will fit. Grab with vise grips (locking pliers). You can file flats on the side of the screw head to grab it.. Use WD-40. Work screw in and out.

There is a pair of locking pliers with a very long nose. It's great for these sorts of things. See: IRWIN Vise-Grip The Original™ Long Nose Locking Pliers (http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100329)

Note 4 and 6" varieties. Any good hardware store should have these. They are good at removing screws from plumbing stems too.

Stripped screws don't grab. You may have corrosion. It may be cross-threaded. It may have a burr at the end.

I want to thank all of you who tried to help me! Finally a pair of vise grips and some WD40 did the trick. It took about a 1/2 hour but it is done! Thank you all again!

The screw is long and, I presume, brass. It holds the front of the lock to the back. It came out about 1/4 of an inch and stopped. The other screw came right out so no I am stuck with a partially removed screw! By the way, I am old but I am not stupid, just so you know!


I don't think anyone was assuming that you're stupid. It is just hard to explain how to do something when you can't see the object. Sorry if I offended you. Glad that you got it fixed.

If the screw is stripped in the hole, you might be able to use a flat head screwdriver to pry the screw out just a bit so that you can get a hold of the head with the pliers.

Just a thought...

Thanks!

I have a similar problem (see photo)... I removed the head, but now I cannot remove the screw (I tried vise grips) but cannot get a decent grip... any suggestions? Thanks

I just posted in this thread:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/tools-power-equipment/removing-stripped-screw-robertson-head-306411.html

Yep, they make hole saws starting at 1/4".

Gorilla glue might be a good choice for you.

In order to drill that thing out, you will have to temporarily nail a template over it. Say, something like 1/4" thick and with the proppersize hole. Now the saw won't wobble.

You might do two holes of different sizes or one larger size. Just make sure the dowels work in a piece of scrap wood.

A typical hole saw has a centering bit. If you use something larger like 1/2", drill a template. Nail. Then take the centering drill out and use the hole in the template.

I can't judge the size of the holes.

You can do one plug or two. Just wait for the glue to dry properly.

I just posted in this thread:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/tools-power-equipment/removing-stripped-screw-robertson-head-306411.html

Yep, they make hole saws starting at 1/4".

Gorilla glue might be a good choice for you.

In order to drill that thing out, you will have to temporarily nail a template over it. Say, something like 1/4" thick and with the proppersize hole. Now the saw won't wobble.

You might do two holes of different sizes or one larger size. Just make sure the dowels work in a piece of scrap wood.

A typical hole saw has a centering bit. If you use something larger like 1/2", drill a template. Nail. Then take the centering drill out and use the hole in the template.

I can't judge the size of the holes.

You can do one plug or two. Just wait for the glue to dry properly.


See photos...
"embedded" is a pic of the actual screw
"embedded 2" is what I think you are advising me to do...

I don't think you understand what the template is for, Correct?

It looks like a 1/2" dowel will work. Do you agree?

Now suppose that you got the "cylinder" drilled to the proper depth and it encompased both screws.

I'll bet that if you got the smaller hole saw like the 1/4" one and placed it over the screw, you could easily remove the wood surrounding the threads with multiple passes. Just don't breach the 1/2" peremiter.

So, now take a Dremel and remove all of the wood inside the cylinder and try to remove the screw.

I don't think you understand what the template is for, Correct?

It looks like a 1/2" dowel will work. Do you agree?

Now suppose that you got the "cylinder" drilled to the proper depth and it encompased both screws.

I'll bet that if you got the smaller hole saw like the 1/4" one and placed it over the screw, you could easily remove the wood surrounding the threads with multiple passes. Just don't breach the 1/2" peremiter.

So, now take a Dremel and remove all of the wood inside the cylinder and try to remove the screw.

I am confused... I use the hole saw to drill into the wood... encompassing the two shanks... then what? What do you mean about not "breaching" the 1/2" perimeter?
How does the shank come out?

My picture making abilities are not to be desired. I hate the packages I have to choose from.

Maybe the attached .PDF will make some sense.

My picture making abilities are not to be desired. I hate the packages I have to choose from.

Maybe the attached .PDF will make some sense.

Very accurate drwaing (it is exactly my problem).. however the side view is missing... I suppose that part is critical because the wood from which I am trying to remove this screw is only 1 1/2" thick (it is a hand railing)...
So the hole saw blades will not even make contact with the wood around the shank because the drill bit would have gone through the other side (wouldn't it?)

We are talking two different hole saws. In both cases the centering bit HAS BEEN REMOVED. That's why you need the "template" to take the place of the centering bit.

The 1/4" hole saw has no centering bit when purchased. Stratmando mentioned drilling around the shank. I mentioned a Dremel bit.

The 1/2" hole saw (my estimate of the size needed) is to provide a SMOOTH HOLE to glue in your dowel. That's the perimeter you can't breech.

If you get the right 1/2" hole saw, the centering bit is removeable (set screw).

We are talking two different hole saws. In both cases the centering bit HAS BEEN REMOVED. That's why you need the "template" to take the place of the centering bit.

The 1/4" hole saw has no centering bit when purchased. Stratmando mentioned drilling around the shank. I mentioned a Dremel bit.

The 1/2" hole saw (my estimate of the size needed) is to provide a SMOOTH HOLE to glue in your dowel. That's the perimeter you can't breech.

If you get the right 1/2" hole saw, the centering bit is removeable (set screw).

I can only find a 1/2" hole saw (I cannot find 1/4" one)... even so, I cannot find a 1/2" one without the drill bit....
the screw is embedded about 3/4" into the wood (which is about 1 1/'8 thick total)... so, even if I drill around this embedded screw... I don't want to go right though the piece of wood. The wood is a railing.