Hi;

I have a goodman furnace model GMP075-3 and I have no power going to my hot surface ignitor power vent satrts up and I hear the control board click and my voltmeter shows 0.05 and jumps to 0.06 and back to 0.05 when it clicks. I hear the gas valve open and then shut when no flame after 3 tries it shuts itself down does this sound like a control board problem or could there be something else


Thanks
John

Where are you checking the power to your ignitor? You need to disconnect the connecter that the short leads from the ignitor are plugged into and then check the voltage there as the furnace starts through it cycle. The reading when it calls for the ignitor the voltage should be 120 volts. If it is and the ignitor does not glow then the problem is in the ignitor itself. Look for a crack in the ignitor and also for a white place on the ignitor. DO NOT TOUCH THE IGNITOR MATERIAL WITH YOUR FINGERS. FINGERPRINTS WILL MAKE THEM BURN OUT.

Yes that's where I tested it at and I ohmed out the ignitor and got a good reading on that but when it should call for power to the ignitor I get nothing

Hi;

I have a goodman furnace model GMP075-3 and I have no power going to my hot surface ignitor power vent satrts up and I hear the control board click and my voltmeter shows 0.05 and jumps to 0.06 and back to 0.05 when it clicks. I hear the gas valve open and then shut when no flame after 3 tries it shuts itself down does this sound like a control board problem or could ther be something else


thanks
john

Yes that's where I tested it at and I ohmed out the ignitor and got a good reading on that but when it should call for power to the ignitor I get nothing
Today 04:55 PM

Where are you checking the power to your ignitor? You need to disconnect the connecter that the short leads from the ignitor are plugged into and then check the voltage there as the furnace starts through it cycle. The reading when it calls for the ignitor the voltage should be 120 volts. If it is and the ignitor does not glow then the problem is in the ignitor itself. Look for a crack in the ignitor and also for a white place on the ignitor. DO NOT TOUCH THE IGNITOR MATERIAL WITH YOUR FINGERS. FINGERPRINTS WILL MAKE THEM BURN OUT.

Yes that's where I tested it at and I ohmed out the ignitor and got a good reading on that but when it should call for power to the ignitor I get nothing

If no power is present at the board where the ignitor plugs into during a call for heat then the board is not supplying power to the ignitor and the circuit board is defective.

Also double check the 110V connector at the board (during the startup cycle the board relays this through to the igniter; in other modes its relayed to HUM or EAC, etc.). If you're getting 110V to the board and not to the igniter its got to be the board. If no 110V to the board you need to trace that back.

I am having the same issue with my Goodman/Janitrol model GPD125-4. Goes through the whole start-up, clicks over for the ignitor which doesn't glow, then the gas comes on for 5 seconds then the gas goes out and it tries all over again another two times. Once it has gone through three cycles it shuts down and give a false led code of one blink which is the diagnostic for a gas flow/pressure problem or gas valve problem or flame sense problem, none of which is the problem. At the board there is no 120 VAC to the HSI. I have checked every other terminal on the board and that is the only circuit that doesn't have power to it. It seems to be one thing after another with this furnace. Every few months something new goes out. Once I replace the board everything inside will be new except the flame sensor (only requires cleaning unless the ceramic is cracked) and the blower. Crossing my fingers this will be the last thing I will have to replace/repair on this ever again.