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View Full Version : Does Pumptrol D Switch Need Changing?


Ranger05
Nov 8, 2008, 11:35 AM
Yesterday while taking a shower the water pressure fell to a trickle for about four seconds then came back again. This went on for the length of my shower. Today, while washing a few dishes the same thing happened but for a few seconds longer. I went down to check the pressure and noticed that I only had 20PSI. I taped the Pumptrol D a few times and let out some water from the valve and it went up to forty but it was higher before. I noticed that the adjustable control (the smaller one has some oxidation on it). Do I have to change the Pumptrol D or can it be something else? New Homeowner! Thanks..

jlisenbe
Nov 8, 2008, 11:42 AM
Ranger, I would first check the little pipe leading to the switch to see if it's clogged with crud. However, switches are cheap (20 bucks or so), so considering that you have to remove the switch to check out the little pipe, and since it sounds like it has some age on it anyway, I would just plan on replacing it with a 30/50 switch.

speedball1
Nov 8, 2008, 11:42 AM
S hut the powerv off and clean the contacts. Work better now? Regards, Tom

Ranger05
Nov 8, 2008, 07:05 PM
I changed the switch and the pressure went up to 50PSI. My daughter took a shower and it went down to zero. Not sure if it's the Amtrol tank or the well pump. Any advice. Thanks.

jlisenbe
Nov 8, 2008, 08:54 PM
Did the points close at thirty?

Ranger05
Nov 8, 2008, 11:40 PM
No, so far twice I have had to manually close the contacts in order for the system to regenerate. It does cut off at 55PSI but once it goes down it never cut on again. Could it be that there is not enough pressure in the amtrol well tank or the well pump might have a problem somewhere?

speedball1
Nov 9, 2008, 05:55 AM
I taped the Pumptrol D a few times and let out some water from the valve Are you speaking of the valve on top of the bladder tank? If so your bladder tank has a ruptured bladder and the tank must be replaced and the PSI of the tank set at 2 PSI under the cut-in point of the control box. Let me show you how to check it out. To check, just knock on the side of the tank starting at the bottom. If it "klunks" the same all the way up the tank is water logged. Or you could pop the snifter valve on top of the tank. If water comes out then change the tank. You could try injecting air in at the valve but if the bladder is ruptured it won't take care of the problem. The answer is to replace the bladder tank.

I changed the switch and the pressure went up to 50PSI. My daughter took a shower and it went down to zero. Not sure if it's the Amtrol tank or the well pump.
I think you're looking at two separate problems here. A bad bladder tank and either a blocked tube from the pump to the control box or a faulty check/foot valve. I would check the line from the pump to the control box first.
Good luck and thanks for rating my reply. Tom

Ranger05
Nov 9, 2008, 08:32 AM
I was speaking of the valve next to the D switch. This morning I checked the tank pressure and it is at 30PSI so the tank does have pressure inside. This morning the home's water pressure was at zero. The new swicth did not cut in over night. Not sure what else it could be..

speedball1
Nov 9, 2008, 08:51 AM
Even if the bladder was ruptured you would still read pressure. \Check the tank just to make me a happy camper. Also disconnect the tube from the pump and control box to be sure all is clear. Don't just check the tube, check the pumps tube outlet and the control bhox inlet as well. Let me know what you find, Tom

Ranger05
Nov 9, 2008, 09:15 AM
Checked tank by banging on it. Sound was solid on the bottom went to a tinny sound past the middle to the top. I took off the switch and I am checking the plumbing for obstructions. Could this have anything to do with the water softener system or the well pump?

speedball1
Nov 9, 2008, 09:30 AM
Contacts were rusty. That would do it. Clean the contacts and check to see how moisture got into the control box. Good luck, Tom

jlisenbe
Nov 9, 2008, 11:26 AM
That was on the old switch. Ranger has since put in a new switch, so the contacts should not be an issue.

Are you saying there is an air valve on the side of the pressure tank? If so, then you do not have a bladder tank.

Like SB, it seems to me you have two issues going on. The first is that the switch is not cutting on at 30 pounds. That would seem to indicate the little tube going to the switch is still blocked or obstructed. Did you clean it or replace it?

The other issue is this: How can you have thirty pounds of pressure at the tank and no pressure in the house? If that is indeed the case, then there is an issue between the house and the tank. Do you have an outside faucet close to the tank?

Ranger05
Nov 9, 2008, 05:10 PM
No the valve is a spigot type that is past the switch. I cleaned the plumbing, changed the switch and checked the well tank. All checked out. I went to the well and took out the well pump only to discover that it did not work. I went on for a second then died out. Not to mention oil was leaking out from it. I am changing the well pump in the morning. Lets see what happens then..

jlisenbe
Nov 9, 2008, 08:09 PM
It would seem you have found the problem. Let us know how it turns out. Best wishes.