I have a 1999 Honda Accord that occasionately shuts off while driving down road. First thought it just ran out of gas but running out of gas would not shut all electrical systems down. Anyone have any ideas?

First, check for a faulty MAP sensor, which controls ignition timing and air/fuel mixture through inputs to the ECM. Problem most likely with the electrical side of the MAP sensor, rather than the vacuum. However, both are easy to check out. Turn ignition on and check for 5v. Going between + reference wire and - ground. Check for 5v. Also going between the + signal wire and - ground. If you don't have 5v. then the problem could be with the computer not delivering the necessary 5v. To the MAP sensor. Second, check out your main relay.

Let me know if this solved your problem.

It sounds like it might also be the ignition switch. There is a recall on 97-2002 Accords and CR-Vs because of the faulty ignition switch, which can cause the car to stall in the middle of driving, like someone just pulled the plug on it. I'm having the same problem with my '95 Accord, which has the same ignition switch, but for some reason was left out of the recall. I was having the "Hot Soak" starting problem (main relay, prob.) but now it won't stay started at all. I had noticed my needles and guages die intermittently but they came right back. Then it just died while I was driving it, and I've only been able to get it to start again by messing with the ignition switch, which I hope to be able to replace soon. I will check the MAP sensor, as well, though. Where is info on checking the MAP sensor?

I had the same problem on my 95lx... it was the electrical portion of the ignition switch. Took me about 1 1/2 hours to swap out and the part was $44 at the dealer. Hell of a cheap fix for such an enormous problem. Thanks for the post on this, guys, it really helped me narrow down my problem!

That's finally what fixed mine, too. That things should be recalled, In my opinion. It's to squirrely a part to have so much potential for sudden and total wipeout!

My car has had the same "engine shut off" problem since 2000 or 2001 which I have taken to the dealer twice and each time they did not find a problem. Now I am well beyond my warranty and will have to pay for the repair.

I called Honda [1-800-999-1009] to see if my vehicle was included in the recall, it was not. I was told that if enough cars were reported to have had this issue separate from the production line that received it, a recall could be sent out. If your car is under the recall and you have paid for the repair they will reimburse you for the cost.

Everyone should check to see if their accord falls under the recall listed below. If your car is not covered get the problem documented with Honda Corp by calling and reporting it and what you paid to fix it even if you did the repair yourself.

I have an appointment tomorrow for a possible starter solenoid contact issue [my car won't start at the first attempt] I am wondering if this is related to the ignition switch issue. Either way if my car dies in traffic and I can't restart it I am screwed, it's a very dangerous situation.

I learned a lot about this in my call and how Honda handles these issues. If anyone wants to know more let me know...

~Tammy


Also Check this link: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/results.cfm?SearchType=QuickSearch&rcl_ID=02V120000&summary=true




The recall:


NHTSA Campaign ID Number: 02V120000
Recall Data: 05/16/2002
Components: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Units Affected: 1000000
1999 HONDA ACCORD ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Recall Date: 05/16/2002

Summary:
ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.

Consequence:
WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.

Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN JUNE 14, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.

Potential Units Affected: 1000000

Notes: HONDA ACCORD

I have a 1999 Honda Accord that occasionately shuts off while driving down road. First thought it just ran out of gas but running out of gas would not shut all electrical systems down. Anyone have any ideas?

Check the ignition on the car, where the keys goes... for me it was worn out probably too heavy a key ring. Its an easily fixed problem... about a $20 part. THe dealership couldn't figure it out.
The car turns off while your driving... I bet if you hold the key forward the car will stay on.

Hey!

Bought this 99 honda accord dx 4 door 5 speed back in 2006. In the end of 2007 the car shut off on the high way while I was driving!! Thank God I didn't get into an accident! I was so scared to drive the car from then on I traded vehicles with my boyfriend for a short while... He thought I was crazy because he couldn't get it to shut off like it happened to me! I took the car back and sure enough it happened again! He was with me this time so he saw it happen. We looked over the car and looked online and found my car had a recall on it. We called Honda's 1800 number and they told us the car had already been recalled and fixed in 2002! So why then a couple of years later would the same problem be happening! I am scared that if I go and have it fixed it will just shut off on me again in four years! Did they just replace the faulty part with another faulty part? I have read some of the forms here and they seem to indicate that it could be the wiring to the ignition switch and not the whole part. We have rigged the car by hanging objects off the keys to get it to stay on... only thing is we started with just a wine tool and now to get it to stay on I have to fight two coffee cups to shift gears!lol. I know it's only a matter of time before it stops altogether! My question is that if I replace only the wiring to the switch (which I found for around $60) will this affect the magnetic components to turn the car on? Will it still run? Is this a hard part to swap out? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
*Chantal

Blue, here's how the replace the ignition switch:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-2.html#post224652

Here's how much it costs:

While we find your parts, please enter your ZIP Code at PartsAmerica.com (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=NIE&MfrPartNumber=IG8253)

Not a difficult job.

So I don't have to pay honda to do anything!! Thanks so much!

I have a similar problem on my 98 EX Accord. The electrical system shuts off while driving. I'm not sure to what extent, the tacometer and speedometer go to zero and back up. Some but not all lights on the dash light up. My car however continues to run, the electrical system goes back online. It may be because it has a manual transmission. The engine does not ever shut off.

I checked the key ignition and wiggled my key around and the car stayed on.

I have an ignition problem in the past. The car would start randomly. It turned out that it was the relay that triggers the solenoid starter.

Any ideas?

goonmeister, consider replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563-4.html#post265896

The ICM is tied directly to the tachometer; therefore, the rpm drop and recovery could be an indictment of the control module.

I have been having this same problem SINCE I had the Ignition Switch replaced under the Recall. Wasn't really having that problem before, the key wouldn't always turn or release. However, the only thing I wanted to add as more of a Question than answer, is why does the car only seem to suddenly stop EARLY in each trip. What I mean is that I can start the car, go about half a mile, it dies, and then once re-started usually doesn't stop again! Lately I have had to turn it over up to 20 times before the engine would catch and run.
But even with that, when it finally did run, it runs great. 27 MPG, 348,000 miles on it. But it is going to get me killed. Thanks to everyone who has providee answers that may yet lead to them solving the problem on my vehicle.

dgstern51, I would start by replacing the ICM and coil. If the problem persists, replace the distributor housing (genuine Honda only) and install your new ICM and coil in it. I recommend replacing these components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

I have a 1999 Accord V6. Just had this happen to me on the highway. There was smoke coming from the steering column before the engine shut down. Luckily I was able to pull over safely. Had the car towed home. When I disassembled the steering column, I found the switch had melted, the solder melted off the contacts and the insulation on the wires leading up to the switch had melted together. No damage other than that
Glad I found this Thread. I'm calling the dealer Monday morning to see if this repair will be covered under the recall.

To solve this problem I replaced the ignition switch and Main relay and solved the problem.
I ordered the parts online about $83 for both and about 1 hours labor.
Easy fix for such a huge problem

I have similar problem before, my 94 Accord LX Engine cuts out all the sudden (during acceleration, at a stop sign, 20 minutes of driving, 1 min of driving).

When the engine cuts out, there is no rough idling, no backfire, no hesitation, no unusual engine behavior. The RPM all the sudden just drop to zero. Sometimes can't even notice it because its so quiet.

The no hesitation, no rough idling indicates its an electrical problem... so either the main relay or the distributor.
For my case, it's the distributor (not just the cap, but the entire distributor assembly which include the Ignition Control Module)

I have similar problem before, my 94 Accord LX Engine cuts out all the sudden (during acceleration, at a stop sign, 20 mins of driving, 1 min of driving).

When the engine cuts out, there is no rough idling, no backfire, no hesitation, no unusual engine behavior. The RPM all the sudden just drop to zero. sometimes can't even notice it because its so quiet.

The no hesitation, no rough idling indicates its an electrical problem...so either the main relay or the distributor.
For my case, its the distributor (not just the cap, but the entire distributor assembly which include the Ignition Control Module)

How can I look up the part number for the main relay? I have an accord 2001. The entire distributor is $298 and I heard the relay is around 80.

I have a 1999 honda accord with a stall problem. When the car is cold or if I haven't driven it anywhere for 5-8 hours it will stall. If I don't want it to stall I have to hold the gas and the brake at the same time. Any clue?

I have 2006 Honda Accord, and it shuts off while driving.. wonder if ignition switch caused this shut off problem.. Please advise if any of you had similar problem and you have fixed the problems by replacing ignition switch.. Thanks.

casacujo, focus on Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP), ignition switch, and ECM (particularly the main ECM ground).

Having the same problem... going to go fix it and I will post exactly what was needed.

Hi there. 1999 accord LX, same problem. After reading this I will go and fix it and post exactly what was the problem.
Recap according to this post:

1. Electrical portion of the ignition switch(most likely)
2. MAP Sensor
3. Main relay.

Note: when I first approached my personal mechanic and he plugged in the computer to analyze the problem the computer read 361 or 381. He did not explain to me what that meant but replaced my distributor and was shocked to find out later that the stalling-mid driving was still occurring. After I get it fixed I will post the exact fix that eliminated the problem on my car.

Thank guys, this post probably saved me another 2-300.00 for a fix that I did not need from my not so smart mechanic.

I am having the same problem with my 99 accord I broke down and took my car to the dealer. They said that it was a bad ignition back that inside the ingnition things were worn and that it was shorting out. The repair with Honda is about $448.00

My vehicle was running great until I replaced the alternator that when I started with this new problem gas needle goes way below the e and that's when my car turns off I was able to get it started as long as the vehicle had more then a quarter of a tank but know its not starting what could be the problem??

katyagundez, perform tests, in Honda Sections 1 and 2, below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/faq-how-troubleshoot-repair-maintain-hondas-selected-other-vehicles-46563.html

Electronic ignition switch it happened to my 1998 and 99 accord and yes the rip offs at the dealer said that they had been repaired a few years back with the recall had to bite the bullet and paid 70 bucks for each one took care of my problem for how long??

Diagnosis, troubleshooting, and repair/replace instructions at http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html

Hello there everyone, I too myself have the same situation. My 1991 honda crx will shut power completely on the road then turns back right on. I have notice I have some issues with starting the car up sometimes. I was wandering if anyone can give me any advice on it. After reading these answers I'm leading towards the ignition switch but not quite yet. Anything would be gladly appreciated. Thanks!

I am experiencing the identical problems with my 1999 Accord. I purchased it from a friend in 2003, had the ignition recall fixed in 2005(wasn't experiencing any problems), and it cut off me this weekend just like yours did. Have you had any additional problems since repairing it the last time?

My 1999 Accord 4 cyl-5 speed shuts off weekly while driving and also while just idling. I have read a lot of forums and I am sure to start with the ignition wiring... I have had really good luck lately by using my alternate key whenever I have this condition. I will caution the dangers of pulling the key out and swapping ignition key while the car is rolling in traffic. This is only the second week of using and swapping the key a few times and its better. In fact, I am using a spare key mostly now and I hope to have a good report. If all goes well, I may just continue with spare key.

Dharris, The faulty Honda Ignition Switch is a Real Problem, It is likely your problem. Did one recently, same year as yours.
Get any radio codes and disconnect Battery
You have to remove the plastic piece under the dash, and the screws from the plastic piece under the column, then physically pull apart, get any radio codes and disconnect Battery.
Remove 2 screws securing the actual switch(with wires).
I had to dissemble the end of the plug to fit through an opening, you will see what I mean, they are a little tricky, take your time, draw wire positions ahead of time. Some make cut the wires and crimp, I wouldn't.
They Plung into the top of the Fuse Panel.
If you have a test light or meter and want to test the terminals on the back of the switch, to verify it IS the switch, I will dig up the colors for Bat, Ign, ACC. They call it Position I, II, and III.
Good Luck

If you have or get a $5 test light from an auto parts store.
On the Back of the switch, check for:
With Key On, Power to the IG circuits, which is the Black/Yellow and the White/black(white with black tracer). Do not get this confused with the Black with white tracer which is the Starter Wire,
Constant 12 volts is the White wire.
You will likely have to remove the plastic to have access, then drive until it fails and then look for the voltage, If its not there, the switch is bad.

Hi!

I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX (automatic) and I've been running into the following problem for the last month:

While driving my car it will automatically die as described in prior posts via others. In addition when I do try to turn it back on, it just cranks and doesn't turn over.

Currently, I've had the distributor and the crank sensor replaced and it continues to have the same issue.

My question is.. does anyone else have any suggestions or fixes? Is the recall still around in which I can submit a request for it.

I will check my MAP sensor and ignition switch in the meantime. Thanks in advance!

That year is famous for Bad Ignition Switches, look at back post for colors to test.
TX Greasemonkey will llikely say ICM, and It could be either.
Easy test is the Ignition switch, can be tested on the backside of the switch, or large plugs with large wires above the fuse panel.

1999 Honda Accord Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information (http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1039.html)

Looks like the Black/yellow and/or the White/black is your Ignition, need to test with a meter or light in the On Position.

White is constant hot at the Ignition, if fuse is blown, won't be power to Ignition circuits as well.

The problem may reside with the distributor. Over 50% of new aftermarket distributors for Hondas don't work at AMHD. Most of the remaining ones are unreliable and problematic. I only recommend installing a genuine Honda distributor, where it's fine to install an aftermarket Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil to keep the cost down.

MAP Sensors are extremely reliable and never go bad.

Just a note on anyone having to change the switch, you mave have to draw a diagram of the end of the plug and color of wires to dissemble and reassemble and, you may have to use glasses to see how to remove pins?
Due to the plug being larger than one of the metal pieces on steering column. Small screwdriver works well.

I had the same problem with my 99 Honda accord. I called Honda they said that my car wasn't under the recall. I ended up replacing the electrical portion of the ignition switch ($52.00) and continued to have the same problem. I have since replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and battery.. still to no avail. Any suggestions? I'm thinking it's the coil/ or ICM

Thanks
Jake

Jake99Accord, replace the ICM and coil and your problem should be solved. Apply silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the new ICM.

Jake99, I would do voltage test at the Ignition switch connections on the back of the switch, New doesn't necessarily mean the switch is good, a test light will/would confirm need for the switch replacement, If you tested at the switch, and test good, I would Strongly listen to TXGreaseMonkey. Good Luck

I have a 1999 Honda Accord that cuts off when it will get hot. The car will eventually starts back when it seems to have cool off. About a week ago I drove the car for the whole day. The only problem was that it stall like it was going to cut off, but didn't. The next day the car wouldn't crank and still not cranking after putting in a new battery and distributor. Can you please tell me what you think may be causing it not to crank? I was going to get the crankshaft position sensor until I got the price and trying to see what else can I try before I spend the money.

CEllis81, if the starter motor doesn't crank:

"Car (Starter Motor) Won't Crank"

. Ensure the battery is fully charged, before diagnosing starter problems. Then, test each cell, with a hydrometer or multimeter, to ensure that it’s good. This important step is often overlooked.
. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.
. Ensure the gearshift is in Neutral or Park (automatic transmission), or the clutch pedal is depressed (manual transmission), if the starter motor does not turn at all when the ignition switch is turned to Start.


1. If the starter motor doesn't turn, but the starter solenoid (relay) "clicks" when the ignition switch is turned to Start, the problem is with the battery, starter solenoid, or starter motor connections.

2. Disconnecting the negative battery cable first, clean battery terminals and cable connections with a battery terminal brush, No. 240 abrasive cloth, or steel wool. Also, check the battery ground cable connection to the body and engine. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished. Examine the cables carefully for hidden corrosion or internal breaks.

3. While the negative battery cable is disconnected, clean starter motor and starter solenoid connections. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished. Make sure all connections are secure. When installing the starter cable, make sure that the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. Reconnect the negative battery terminal last.

4. If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be replaced. Also, the ring gear on the flywheel or drive plate may be worn.

5. If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switch is actuated, the battery is bad, the fusible link is burned (circuit is open), or the solenoid is defective.

6. In order to check the solenoid, put the transmission in Park and remove the push-on connector from the solenoid “S” terminal. Connect a jumper lead (12 AWG), or preferably a remote starter switch, between the positive battery terminal and the exposed “S” terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is fine and the problem is with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring. If the starter motor still does not operate, replace the solenoid.

7. If the starter motor cranks the engine slowly, ensure the battery is fully charged and all terminal connections are clean and tight. Then, check connections at the starter solenoid and battery ground. The engine will also crank slowly, if it’s partially seized or has the wrong viscosity oil in it. Synthetic engine oil allows starter motors to turn the engine over easier and faster, thus promoting starting and reducing battery drain.